View Full Version : Recommendations for Jobo rotary AND chemistry

19-Aug-2007, 02:11
Hello all. I want to start developing my own stuff again; and I’ve managed to get a jobo rotary processor for not very much....

Hence I could do with recommendations on two things:


I previously used xtol, but now considering other stuff so don’t need to store as much liquid around the place. I’ve been considered the Ilford one-shot stuff. I know a lot of this is personal preference, but I’m happy to take advice. I generally shoot with tri-x, delta 100 or pan-f. Thanks in advance

2). Jobo

I've only used polaroids with the 4x5 so far, and so not developed any of my own stuff (or indeed, had it sent off to a lab). Hence I'd appreciate recommendations for 'best practice' with regard to developing the 4x5 stuff in a jobo rotary....


Mick Fagan
19-Aug-2007, 04:43
Regarding the Jobo unit, could you give us the model you have and whether or not it has a lift?

These two pieces of information are especially important regarding the different tank combinations for 4x5 processing, that may or may not be usable on some Jobo processors.

Roll film can be processed easily on any Jobo, but some sheet film tanks will only work on the larger machines with a lift.

Don't worry, all of the Jobo processors can very easily process 4x5 film, some models just do it a bit easier.


20-Aug-2007, 10:28
Kind of a broad question but I guess you have to start somewhere...

The best advice given to me was to stick with one film/developer/paper and really get to know them. For me that means Rollo Pyro (thankyou Per) for sheetfilm, HC110 for rollfilm (it was free). My education continues...

I use the expert drums for sheetfilm on a beseler roller base.

Good luck.

Scott Davis
20-Aug-2007, 11:30
Yes, without model names/numbers for the various Jobo bits it makes it a little harder to advise. I do my sheet film in a Jobo Expert drum, and I use Pyrocat HD (another pyro flavor intended for rotary processing). You keep a stock of it in essentially pint (500cc) size. Working strength is normally somewhere in the 1:1:100 to 2:2:100 dilution, so a small bottle goes a LONG way. You mix it to working strength only when you are ready to use it as the working strength oxidizes rapidly.