front rise gear disassembly on Ansco 8x10

[Mick Noordewier]

Ash and Randy's projects have inspired me to try my had at rebuilding an Ansco 8x10. Taking it apart, I've already run into a (for me) stumbling block. The gear for front rise has knobs on both ends, and no evident way to remove it from the front standard. Surely there's a way to remove it, any suggestions?
-Mick

[Nick_3536]

Isn't that a screw of some sort in the first picture?

Which vintage is this? They might be different.

[Nick_3536]

My post-war plastic [bakelite?] knobbed camera has a screw. Which I guess is the same thing your first photo shows. A small enough screw driver should do it.

[Mick Noordewier]

Nick,

If it's a screw, it must be completely corroded. I've attached a closer picture, and I can't see any screw-head slot.

As far as the vintage, I'd love for someone knowledgeable to tell when it was made. It has front rise and tilt, and there is a metal cross-bar above the standard that is U-shaped to accommodate the tilt. It is dark stained, and alcohol doesn't seem to affect the finish, so I assume it is lacquer.

My plan is to disassemble completely, strip and refinish the wood, polish the brass and purchase a new bellows. I'm new to this, so I'd like to just do enough work so that I can start shooting with it.

-Mick

[Ash]

Ooo I got a mention :D :D

Good luck with the project :)

[Nick_3536]

You've got tilt so it's post 1943 I think. It's similar to mine but I've got the different finish and hardware. Maybe mine has been changed over the years. Some body did add front swing.

[Nick_3536]

Check the other knobs. All mine have similar screws. At least it'll tell you if it should be a screw.

[John Bartley]

Nick,

If it's a screw, it must be completely corroded. I've attached a closer picture, and I can't see any screw-head slot.

As far as the vintage, I'd love for someone knowledgeable to tell when it was made.

-Mick

Mick,

If it was a screw, then someone has broken the head off it. It looks too smooth on the top to be broken off. If it goes all the way through, then it's a friction fit "drive-pin" and it punches out with a pin punch and hammer (a small one).

One way to get rid of the rust without making a big mess is to use CLR and a q-tip swab. If it's a hex socket set screw (and I don't think it is), the hole "might" be filled with rust (very slim chance of that).

Yours is the same style as mine but the colours are different. Mine is gray-green with nickel plated trim. Mine is a 1941 model.

cheers

[Mick Noordewier]

John,

It does indeed look as if it goes all the way through. Tomorrow's shopping list includes your suggestion of a pin punch.

There's another piece that I'm also struggling with. The rear swing locks down with two large thumb nuts. These loosen, but can't be unscrewed completely. I'm sure that this was an intentional design feature so that they aren't lost, but it prohibits me from removing the hardware from the rear standard. Any suggestions?

-Mick

[Bob Gentile]

"... Tomorrow's shopping list includes your suggestion of a pin punch..."Mick,

The pin looks like it's been in there for quite a while. Some sort of penetrating oil might free it up a bit before you start whacking on the punch. A product like "PB Blaster" can work wonders.

[C. D. Keth]

Mick,

The pin looks like it's been in there for quite a while. Some sort of penetrating oil might free it up a bit before you start whacking on the punch. A product like "PB Blaster" can work wonders.

I'd recommend that you masking tape off the wood in the area before you put anything on the pin. WD40 or PB Blaster can get wood rotting awfully fast.

[Randy H]

...The rear swing locks down with two large thumb nuts. These loosen, but can't be unscrewed completely. I'm sure that this was an intentional design feature so that they aren't lost, but it prohibits me from removing the hardware from the rear standard....

The end of the shaft is probably "mushroomed". It is indeed intentional to keep the knobs from inadvertantly coming completely off. Screw the knobs all the way "tight", and "carefully" sand the end of the shaft. Then the knobs should come off. Just don't try and "force" them to unscrew. You take the chance of twisting the shaft in two, or stripping one of the knobs. It is easier to work around them in one piece, than it is to try and replace the shaft and gears and knobs.

Good luck with the project. Beware, though. It is indeed addictive...........

[RichardRitter]

It is a tapered pin. The mushroom side is the bigger end of the pin. Make sure you mark the knob to the shatf. You will need a 1/16 pin punch and a block with a hole in it that fits between the knob and the stanard and the knob hub sits on the block.

New pins have to be custom made. Don't loss it.