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dazedgonebye
12-Jun-2007, 08:05
I have an Rh10 roll film back on my Graflex XLSW. I took it out this weekend without bothering to find out how to load the thing ahead of time.
I worked out the basics and did get it loaded, but I apparently made some mistakes.
First, I did not advance the film enough initially because my first couple of shots were not actually on film and I had blank film at the end.
Second, Im experiencing about inch or more of overlap on each frame.

How I operated it:
By the second roll, I got a clue as to how it should be loaded. I loaded the film and then set the dial on top to S (for start?). I then advanced it to the number 1. Not trusting this, I decided to ruin some film for the educational value. I snuck the dark slide out a bit and saw that the film was not showing. I advanced the lever one more stroke and went on to shoot.
Every time I went to advance the film, it was necessary to release the little chrome lever near the film advance. This did not seem right, but it was the only way it would work.

An education on these things would be greatly appreciated.

BrianShaw
12-Jun-2007, 09:00
I assume the RH-10 you are using is the same or similar to the one I use on Speed Graphic. If so, when you wind on the roll, there is a small arrow on the inside of the film holder. The arrow on the film should be aligned with the arrow on the film holder. Then close the back, set the counter to "s" and wind until the counter stops at "1".

BrianShaw
12-Jun-2007, 09:03
Part of the winding process is releasing the silver lever (advance lock) before winding to the next exposure... it is normal and expected to need to do that.

dazedgonebye
12-Jun-2007, 09:25
Thanks Brian, that makes sense.
My Koni-omega had a similar mark. I guess I just didn't see it for the RH10, but I'll look.
I'm glad to hear about the advance lock being normal.

Any ideas on the frame overlap? It doesn't sound like operator error, but I never know.

David A. Goldfarb
12-Jun-2007, 09:40
If only the frames at the beginning of the roll overlap, then it might be the result of the winding problem.

If all the frames overlap by the same amount, and you're advancing each frame until it stops winding, then there might be a problem with the back, or the insert might be a smaller format (like 6x7) than the shell (like 6x9). If the shell says "RH10" and the insert counts to 10 exposures, then they should match (6x7).

dazedgonebye
12-Jun-2007, 09:54
Well, the insert does count to 10. Now that I look again, the shell does not say RH10, just "120 rollfilm holder." It is masked appropriately for 6x7 though.
On the first roll, there was overlap on each frame, but it did vary a bit from frame to frame.
I'll pick up the second roll today.
Thanks for all of the help.

dazedgonebye
12-Jun-2007, 09:55
BTW, nothing stunning here, but this is one shot salvaged from that first mistake filled roll.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1332/541975539_1f89b2bcef.jpg

Michael Graves
12-Jun-2007, 10:03
Looks like the Mogollon Rim. Is it?

dazedgonebye
12-Jun-2007, 10:05
Looks like the Mogollon Rim. Is it?

Yes it is. Just off of Hwy 260 near Wood's Canyon Lake.
Are you in AZ?
Wait...I see you are not. Obviously though, you've been here.

Donald Qualls
12-Jun-2007, 11:55
If you started the film incorrectly, the frames will overlap because there will be less film and backing on the takeup spool than the roll holder's mechanics expect, so advance will be less than the full 75 mm or whatever a 6x7 frame plus space should be. Generally with non-red window film transports that don't automatically start a counter, you have to load the film and advance until the double-headed arrow that runs crosswise on the backing is even with a marked point in the transport, *then* set the start point, close everything up, and advance to 1. That will, first, ensure that you first frame is on film, and then, second, give you enough diameter on the takeup spool that the frame spacing will be accurate.

Now, I've never handled an RH10, so can't tell you where to look for the start mark to match up to the double-headed arrow, but I'm confident it's there, and will be visible from the back side (i.e. the side that gets the convex cover after loading) during the loading process. Find the place in the holder to match up the film's start mark, and you're good to go (unless you load 220, which has a different distance from DHA to film start than 120).

dazedgonebye
12-Jun-2007, 13:03
That's very hopeful Don. I know my second roll was loaded better, if not exactly right. I should perhaps see better spacing.
I'll know tonight.

I just picked up some polaroid film for the other back that came with this XLSW. My first polaroids since my Dad's old camera.
This is just SO dang much fun!

dazedgonebye
12-Jun-2007, 17:24
Just got the second roll of film. Apparently it was all operator error.
On this roll, I actually advanced too much before begining to shoot and there is a larger than normal film spacing as a result.
So, thanks very much...problem solved. At least, I know what's wrong. Now I've got to get the hang of getting it right.

Thanks again.

Donald Qualls
12-Jun-2007, 17:41
Cool!

And you can tell us, now, whether the XLSW covers the full 3x4 print or just a 6x9 cm portion... :)

dazedgonebye
12-Jun-2007, 19:29
Hey, that polaroid stuff is hard! These look like crap. I think my slow speeds may be slow because everything is overexposed. I'll check tomorrow in the sun at high shutter speeds.

In any case...seems like plenty of coverage for the 3x4 packfilm. No vignetting that I can see on these bad samples.
When I have something I'm not actually ashamed of, I'll post it.

Donald Qualls
13-Jun-2007, 07:53
Cool, there must be some optical trickery to correct the focus and get the lens to cover the larger film -- not that that's hard, since a Holgaroid does it... ;)

Thing to keep in mind with Polaroid is that it has the latitude of slide film, not negative film -- 1/3 stop high or low is quite visible, and you can't just correct in printing as you would for much larger errors than that with, say, .EDU Ultra 100. Your slow speeds might well be fine, you may just need to adjust your meter setting to account for your own methods.

dazedgonebye
13-Jun-2007, 08:24
I take it back, the vignetting is completely out of control!

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1100/543559931_1f1675fc7e.jpg

;-)

Seriously, I see what you mean about exposure lattitude. This is going to put a crimp in my sunny-16/seat of the pants sort of shooting style.
I have a spot meter on the way. It almost makes me break out in hives, just thinking about using it, but I need to "grow in that direction."