Raptar 305mm

[Shen45]

I recently aquired a set of 305mm Wollensak Raptar elements from a guy on APUG for a very good price, better still that they fit an Alphax #4.

The elements had internal haze and a few marks which the seller was very up front about. At the price of the cells I figured I could afford to attempt to pull them apart and clean them. I was rather surprised to discover 4 air spaced elements make up this 305 mm lens. My other Wollensak raptars are Tessars - 4/3 arrangements as is my Veliostigmat 12 inch but with this one a dialyte style 4/4.

It was also interesting that when the haze was removed the resolution of the lens improved dramatically. The haze by the way was not dramatic.

Does anyone have experience with the 305mm f6.3 Wollensak raptar? Mine is the coated version.

I have already done a test sgot with it and must say I'm not at all dissappointed with the performance. It is much better than I expected.

[John Powers]

Steve,

I'm sorry that I can't answer your question. Hopefully my question is somewhat related to your knowledge. I will be happy to have this put in a new thread if it is too unrelated. I have a Wollensak 10 3/4" (273mm) f 6.8 Graphic Raptar Wide Field Lens #D96023 that was put in a Pi-Alphax shutter by Tim Sharkey of Lensn2shutter. It has reasonable coverage on my 7x17 and produces a very nice image. Lenses wider than 270mm for 7x17 are rare. Since you have other Raptars, would you know what the next wider lens is and if it also covers 7x17 (466mm)? I read somewhere that there was a 239mm process lens, but no indication of coverage or quality was given. If a wider Raptar exists with this coverage do you have thoughts where it might be purchased?

Thank you,

John

[Shen45]

Hi John,

My knowledge of the Raptars is limited to lenses I know will cover 5x4 or 5x7 at a pinch.

Jorge and a few others have used a Wollensak 159 WA with success but I'm not certain as to the exact coverage. Maybe Jim Galli or one of the other lens guys can add extra information.

I will add though that despite the perceived second class performance of the Wollensaks by some, a lack of quality has not been my experience.

[Steve Hamley]

Steve,

FYI, Richard Knoppow over on the usenet has for years maintained that even small amounts or light "old lens" haze noticeably affects performance. That's been my experience also.

Steve

[Jim Galli]

Steve, what did you use to remove the 'haze'? Sometimes I get lucky and it cleans right up but I had an old goerz dialyt once that I couldn't touch the haze with anything I tried and finally threw it away.

[Shen45]

I was very lucky Jim, It was a haze looking through the lens as a unit but on separating the elements it seemed to be a film of cleaning material. It came off very easily.

I do have another old lens that was given to me that has a haze that looks like only an angle grinder will remove.

Anyone with any other methods to remove haze??

Steve

[Rider]

Is it easy to take apart these old lenses? What is involved?

[Shen45]

In most cases a lot of gentle care and simple tools. The elements of the 305mm required the careful removal of the front and rear retaining rings in the barrels and then the elements could be removed for cleaning.
Also if you cannot live with a "broken" lens at your own hands or it is totally irreplacable then leave well alone.

I recently purchased two non working shuttered lens for the sole purpose of learning how, or if I could repair some older lenses. I was fortunate that I chose Alphax shuttered lenses as they are probably some of the most simple straight forward shutters going. I repaired both of them with nothing more than a set of tweezers and some jewellers screwdrivers. Alot of old gear needs nothing more than a good clean and lub.

It was very satisfying to get a shutter working again.

None of the lenses i have repaired lately have been expensive -- valuable yes but not expensive.

[c.d.ewen]

Steve, what did you use to remove the 'haze'? Sometimes I get lucky and it cleans right up but I had an old goerz dialyt once that I couldn't touch the haze with anything I tried and finally threw it away.

Jim:

Don't laugh until you try it: Pond's Cold Cream.

I read about it years ago, somewhere on the 'net. I let a heavy smear dry, usually overnight, then take it off with ROR, finishing with ClearSight. Not a complete miracle cure, but worth a try.

Charley

[Jim Galli]

Jim:

Don't laugh until you try it: Pond's Cold Cream.

I read about it years ago, somewhere on the 'net. I let a heavy smear dry, usually overnight, then take it off with ROR, finishing with ClearSight. Not a complete miracle cure, but worth a try.

Charley


Appreciated, thanks. Will give it a try. Worst case scenario is softer hands :)