Alternative to 90 mm F6.8 Super-Angulon

[chacabuco]

Hello,

I am using an ebony sv45 and am looking to replace my 90 mm F6.8 Super-Angulon. Its hard for me to get any rise out of the camera when I have this lens attached. I am happy with the image quality, but since I am using it mainly to shoot architecture, I need to have the ability to get more rise out of the camera using the lens. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,


Rob

[steve simmons]

How is a different 90mm lens going to help? The problem is not the lens but the camera and the compressed bellows. Is a wide angle bellows available for the camera. If not you might try a lens that is slightly longer, perhaps the Schneider 110.

steve simmons
www.viewcamera.com

[Gene McCluney]

It is unclear to me if the inability to get rise is due to the 90mm rear element projecting back so far, or the fact that a 90 has to be so close to the ground glass? with your camera. All the modern 90mm view camera lenses (Fuji, Schneider, Nikon, Rodenstock) are of the "wasp-waist" design with a big rear element. The older 90mm designs, such as a 90mm Angulon (not Super-Angulon) do not have any rear protrusion beyond the lensboard, but they also don't have much excess coverage beyond 4x5. So you wouldn't be able to use a lot of rise. An older "wide field" design lens such as a Dagor of about 100mm or so, would have coverage stopped down, and this "might" be an alternative.

If you scan your film, there is the alternative of just tilting the camera to get the shot, and applying perspective correction in Photoshop.

[chacabuco]

Ah, I didn't realize that the rear element was similarly large on other 90mm lenses. I thought this was the problem. Thanks for the info.

[Bob Salomon]

You also need to check the flange focal length of the lens. The longer the flange focal length the less bellows compression will be necessary for any given focal length. In addition a recessed lensboard may make it easier to use your lens or another 90mm lens on your camera. Lastly does your camera offer a wide angle bellows? That would also help.

[Jiri Vasina]

...The older 90mm designs, such as a 90mm Angulon (not Super-Angulon) do not have any rear protrusion beyond the lensboard, but they also don't have much excess coverage beyond 4x5. So you wouldn't be able to use a lot of rise....

Ole would say differently, he has some example pictures (http://www.bruraholo.no/Cameras/Angulon/) of Angulon 90mm f/6.8 shot at around f/22 or f/32 covering 5x7 (or more precisely 13x18cm) without significant fall-off or terrible softening of edges. It could well be sample to sample variability...

[Gene McCluney]

Ole would say differently, he has some example pictures (http://www.bruraholo.no/Cameras/Angulon/) of Angulon 90mm f/6.8 shot at around f/22 or f/32 covering 5x7 (or more precisely 13x18cm) without significant fall-off or terrible softening of edges. It could well be sample to sample variability...

Oh, there is no doubt there is some rise available, particularly if you are shooting a horizontal format image, but with a verticle image (such as may be required for architecture) the coverage would be more maxed out. Heck, I even get "some" rise from a 90mm Graflex Optar, but the edges are soft. It works for me, because of the types of subject material I like to shoot. I recently acquired a standard 90mm Angulon, and will be trying this out soon, but my subject material requires a horizontal format to the shots. Of course, with all these lenses, it helps to stop right on down to f32.

[Gene McCluney]

Just as a comment here. The IDEAL set-up for architecture photography is a monorail type camera with a bag bellows. There are some brands of monorail view cameras that can be acquired used for quite reasonable prices. Brands such as Toyo, Omega, Cambo, Calumet, etc. Entry level monorail type view cameras were offered under all these names. Bellows and lensboards readily available.

[Ole Tjugen]

I would say that there is significant fall-off, and visible softening in the corners. But I would also say that many (myself included) would find that perfectly acceptable at small apertures.

Precisely to avoid sample-to-sample variability I used two of the little things - one from 1939, one from 1951. There is a slight but detectible difference between the two.

The plain Angulon wouldn't be my choise for architecture, though. I would use my f:8 Super Angulon, but then I have a camera (no - several cameras) which can use the full image circle without problems with bellows interference. For architecture a monorail might be better than the Ebony SV45 - or a 5x7" camera with a 4x5" back (I have both a "monorail" Carbon Infinity and a Gandolfi 8x10" with 4x5" back)...

[Gordon Moat]

Why not simply use a shorter focal length, then crop the final result? Wouldn't a modern 75mm with a little bit of movement provide a solution?

Ciao!

Gordon Moat
A G Studio (http://www.allgstudio.com)

[Jiri Vasina]

I would say that there is significant fall-off...

Ole, I usually don't remember thinks perfectly... ;)

[Richard Kelham]

Short of forking out for something like a Silvestri, I would say that for wide angle architectural photography a monorail with a bag bellows is the only way to go: I used to have to do it for a living.

Since you're using a new f6.8 S/Angulon I guess expense is not an issue ;) so I suggest a Sinar P3 (or whatever number they've got to. In my day it was a Norma).


Richard

[chacabuco]

Thanks for all your responses, very informative. I am obviously not a professional architectural photographer, but i have begun working on a project that involves alot of city architecture. Gabriele Basilico and Sze Tsung Leong are two photographers whose architectural work I admire.

I wonder if I should invest in a bag bellows as I like working with the Ebony. The SA lens was a gift so money is an issue, though I could always sell the lens.

Thanks again for the info.

[Ole Tjugen]

Isn't there a cheap Argentum "Architec" camera which is purpose-made for architecture - and probably cheaper than a bag bellows for an Ebony? :)

[Ted Harris]

Back to the OP's question. My guess is that you are using the standard Ebony bellows which is very stiff. Change that out for a bag bellows and your problem will be solved (as Stee mentions above). In your case you can also use the universal bellows which is softer and thiner and will compress more easily.