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cyrus
11-May-2007, 13:16
Does a Commercial Ektar 14" fit into a Copal 3?

Gene McCluney
11-May-2007, 13:22
Unfortunately, Kodak Commercial Ektars don't even fit in standard Ilex shutters of the period, as Kodak had custom "made for Eastman Kodak by Ilex" shutters supplied for fitting all the sizes of the Commercial Ektars into. I know I have tried.
The mounts for all the Commercial Ektars are unique to Kodak. In any case, even with custom mounting, since the 14" was originally mounted in an Ilex #5, it would take (I think) a bigger shutter than a Copal #3.

cyrus
11-May-2007, 15:09
So I have to get a lensboard custom-cut. Great.

Robert A. Zeichner
11-May-2007, 16:34
According to my 3rd edition Kodak Data book, the shutter mounting hole for the 14" Commercial Ektar is 3-3/8" or 86mm. If your Ilex 5 is equipped with a mounting flange, you might be able to find a hole saw in the 3-3/8" diameter size and just drill it yourself. This of course assumes your lens board is wood, you have a drill and want to go the trouble. Or, perhaps you could ask around and see if one of the many fine woodworkers on this site would do this for you. Good luck.

Gene McCluney
11-May-2007, 19:09
I'm sorry I misunderstood your question, I thought you were asking if the 14" Ektar lens elements fit into a Copal 3 shutter. What you want is to know if the whole lens fits into a whole on a lensboard made for a Copal 3 shutter. The answer is no, the Ektar in Ilex #5 is a much bigger hole, and mounts with a Flange, rather than a retaining ring. On thin metal lensboards, some of us use the Flange like a retaining ring, and screw it on from the back of the board, thus retaining the lens.

Turner Reich
11-May-2007, 23:11
This is the time to buy a drill, saw, pencil, compass, and make it yourself. The hardware stores are loaded with materials that can be used for the board. They might even cut it to fit the camera. Or you can cut and sand the edges yourself. Give it a try and forget having to look and pay and depend on others for what you can do for yourself.

Gene McCluney
12-May-2007, 08:17
This is the time to buy a drill, saw, pencil, compass, and make it yourself. The hardware stores are loaded with materials that can be used for the board. They might even cut it to fit the camera. Or you can cut and sand the edges yourself. Give it a try and forget having to look and pay and depend on others for what you can do for yourself.

Amen! Way to go! I have made about 15 lensboards myself in the last month...and adaptor boards so I can use lenses mounted for one of my cameras on another, etc., etc.

cyrus
12-May-2007, 10:34
This is the time to buy a drill, saw, pencil, compass, and make it yourself. The hardware stores are loaded with materials that can be used for the board. They might even cut it to fit the camera. Or you can cut and sand the edges yourself. Give it a try and forget having to look and pay and depend on others for what you can do for yourself.

I would but I want to put this on a lensboard for a Century Studio camera, with the mongo-sized mahogony lensboards - which I don't have. Can you help out there?

Gene McCluney
12-May-2007, 10:50
You can get super-high quality pre-sanded Birch 1/4" and 3/8" plywood in 1ft x 2ft sheets at many hobby store chains. You can craft a very nice lensboard from this material and stain it Mahogony, and finish it with Polyurethane gloss finish. This is one solution to achieving a "dress" lensboard. Me, I use the Birch but I just paint the whole things flat black. I am more into "user" lensboards. In any case, you should paint the back side (facing the ground glass) flat black to control internal reflections in the camera. You don't need actual Mahogony wood, as the wood stain you use will achieve a match with your camera body. Also, the plywood mentioned above would be less likely to warp in the long run.

cyrus
12-May-2007, 12:29
You can get super-high quality pre-sanded Birch 1/4" and 3/8" plywood in 1ft x 2ft sheets at many hobby store chains. You can craft a very nice lensboard from this material and stain it Mahogony, and finish it with Polyurethane gloss finish. This is one solution to achieving a "dress" lensboard. Me, I use the Birch but I just paint the whole things flat black. I am more into "user" lensboards. In any case, you should paint the back side (facing the ground glass) flat black to control internal reflections in the camera. You don't need actual Mahogony wood, as the wood stain you use will achieve a match with your camera body. Also, the plywood mentioned above would be less likely to warp in the long run.

Excellent. How do I make the ridge that goes around the sides? I am no wood worker - but I think a router does that, and needs a router table. Is that right?

cyrus
15-May-2007, 08:35
The lensboard hole size necessary for a 14" Commercial EKtar is about 3.5 inches, in case future generations are interested. I'm going to go see if there is a matching hole saw in my local hardware store . . .

Gene McCluney
15-May-2007, 08:44
Excellent. How do I make the ridge that goes around the sides? I am no wood worker - but I think a router does that, and needs a router table. Is that right?

I have made the ridge with a hand-held router, but it isn't recommended. A router mounted on a router table is best to get the most professional results. You can get an entry level router and table combo at big-box hardware stores like Lowes for about $100. It could last you a lifetime. don't forget to get a router bit.

Gene McCluney
15-May-2007, 08:48
The lensboard hole size necessary for a 14" Commercial EKtar is about 3.5 inches, in case future generations are interested. I'm going to go see if there is a matching hole saw in my local hardware store . . .

If you have an inexpensive small table mounted drill-press, or one of those fixtures that turns a hand-held drill into a drill press, you can use an adjustable bit. This is a drill bit that has a small central bit, and a blade on an adjustable-arm that you can move in or out (and secure with an allen screw) to cut various size holes. It slices thru the wood as it goes round and round. This is cheap compared to a big fixed-size drill bit, and works very well if you can secure your lensboard (clamps) and use a drill press fixture. You use this type of bit a very low speeds, and take it slow in pushing it into the wood.

Nick_3536
15-May-2007, 09:39
Excellent. How do I make the ridge that goes around the sides? I am no wood worker - but I think a router does that, and needs a router table. Is that right?

I don't know the camera or it's lensboards but you've got plenty of options.

If the board is thick enough any of these will work without any power tools.

A two layer board. The smaller board will be smaller by the size of the rabbet. Just glue the two boards together. Simple. Just takes a little effort to make everything square.

If you are using real wood and not ply then just take out your chisel. Takes a little effort. A rabbet plane would do this easier but I'm not going to suggest you buy a plane. :p

You might get more responses if you post a general question on making Century lensboards.

cyrus
15-May-2007, 12:02
Thanks - I think I'll look for a woodworker to do this. No point fixing up a camera like this with half-measures & cutting off a finger or two in the process . . . and I've already blown the tools budget on building my darkroom sink.