Avery labels on darkslides...What the???

[Mark Carstens]

A few months back I purchased some used 4x5 film holders. Upon initial inspection they looked clean, and in seemingly good condition. When I go to blow out the insides, I remove the darkslides and...what the heck?? There's a 3X4 Avery label on the film-facing side of the each and every darkslide. :eek: (see jpg)

At first blush, no big deal, right? Give 'em a little soak and off they come. Not so much. The glue has hardened to the point where a deep soak in mild soapy water and a little vinegar added does nothing moe than remove the paper part of the sticker. I end up having to scratch and claw to remove the glue residue. Not good.

Now I'm thinking, 19 more of these? No way!

So, here's my question...is there any harm in leaving the labels intact?

Alternatively, how would I get the damn things off without screwing up the darkslide? I don't want to use anything so caustic that it eats the plastic or leaves behind a chemical residue that off-gases into the film.

Any sage words of advice would be greatly appreciated.

~Mark

[OldBikerPete]

Try Methylated spirit. Shouldn't hurt the plastic and does dissolve the Avery label glue.
OTOH you could leave them there. After you've taken each shot, replace the darkslide with the label out and write (using a soft art pencil) the detail of the shot on the label. After unloading, erase the notes, clean off any dust and you're ready for next time. Have a look at the film holder/slide with a developed sheet of film. I think you'll find that there is ample room to leave the label in place.
Put a smaller one on the other side and note on it what type of film is loaded (again in soft pencil).

[Ed Richards]

GooGone - any grocery should have it. It is a citrus oil product that takes that crap off. Then just wash it off with soap and water. Still, not a pleasant way to spend the evening.

[Jan Pedersen]

WD40 and let them sit overnight. It is excelent in removing glue and other gunk.

[erie patsellis]

saturate with mineral spirits, let dry, repeat. after the second soaking, they should peel off like they're brand new.


erie

[roteague]

I guess that is one way to keep notes on exposed film. I doubt that it would cause a problem to leave them there; the design of the slide itself should keep the labels from coming in contact with the film. I would just leave them.

[Ash]

I would have thought the labels were a large idiot-proof version of the black/white tab thing on the DS handle. There's no way you can miss a huge white sticker screaming "EXPOSED FILM!!!". I'd leave em, unless it's annoying.

[Mark Carstens]

I would have thought the labels were a large idiot-proof version of the black/white tab thing on the DS handle. There's no way you can miss a huge white sticker screaming "EXPOSED FILM!!!". I'd leave em, unless it's annoying.

There are no notes on any of them. I think you're spot-on, Ash. I think they are a quick check black/white tab system for those moving at the speed of light :p

Thanks, all. I think I'll roll with them as-is for now, but I appreciate the home remedies for label removal. I'm sure they'll come in handy somewhere along the line.

~Mark

[Alan Rabe]

One thing you might consider is the damage that may be done to the light seals due to pulling them out and pushing them in. Personally I'd remove them with goo-gone.

[Doug Kerr]

Your best bet may be to first remove the paper layer after a soak in water and detergent, then use Goo-Gone to remove the non-water-soluble adhesive residue. Apply it to the residue area and let it work for a few minutes before wiping the residue off with a paper tower soaked with more Goo-Gone. It may take several passes.

[David A. Goldfarb]

Soak overnight to float them off, and then use naphtha to take any adhesive residue right off. Naphtha evaporates very quickly. Use it in a well ventilated area away from flame or sparks--it's the same thing as lighter fluid.

[Brian Ellis]

I'd use a few as they are, see what happens. My guess is everything will be be fine, I doubt that whoever originally put them on left them on even after messing up the film or creating other problems. I wouldn't make notes on them though, at some point you'll have to erase old notes which will involve eraser residue on the dark slide, followed by washing the dark slide, followed by "am I nuts or what, going to all this trouble with my dark slides?" Unless you have a noticeable problem just leave them on as an exposed/unexposed reminder. It actually seems like a good idea to me, maybe I'll do something like this on my dark slides.

[Doug Kerr]

Hi, Brian,


It actually seems like a good idea to me, maybe I'll do something like this on my dark slides.

Some old film holders had dark slides with "Exposed" printed in large letters in silver ink on one side (the "black side of the handle" side).

Best regards,

Doug

[David A. Goldfarb]

I'd worry about the edge of the label repeatedly rubbing against the felt light trap.

On the other hand, you can write on the darkslide in pencil.

[BradS]

I'd worry about the edge of the label repeatedly rubbing against the felt light trap.


Yeah. Me too. My gut reaction was..."but the labels will get hung up on the light baffle stuff and wreak havok!". I'd take 'em off post haste.

[Jim Galli]

I think you should switch to 5X7.

[Bob Jones]

I use a product called De-Solv-It to remove labels, adhesives, tar, and other gunk. It's a citrus-based product that's sold by the local grocery store in a spray bottle. Be aware that most citrus-based products are heavily diluted with water to the point of being useless but this stuff isn't and in my experience takes adhesive off as well as Goo-Gone does (maybe better). It also doesn't have the solvents that Goo-Gone uses. I've never used either on a dark slide so a quick test would be advisable.

[Mark Carstens]

Wow! I feel like I've hit the advice jackpot!

I hadn't thought of the wear on the felt light trap, but it's clearly possible. Thanks for that.

I have no worries about the labels getting hung up on the light trap or stuck on same. They are on the darkslides but good.

I'll check out the local hardware for the one of the products suggested, though. If the labels will remove easily, I would actually rather have them off if they're going to degrade the light trap felt.


I think you should switch to 5X7.

LOL! That's the best laugh I've had all day. Sell the 4x5 camera gear and enlarger and consolidate to 5x7. Problem solved. Anyone know where I can find a nice Durst 5x7 enlarger for next to nothing?? :p ...kidding.

~Mark

[erie patsellis]

Durst, no

Elwood, Solar, etc. sure, many are given away (or nearly)


erie

[Jeff Corbett]

If the labels were put there as a can't-miss-it flag for exposed vs. unexposed film, why is the white label on the "black" side of the dark slide. White is for unexposed; black for exposed. This is a mixed symbol. Must be some other reason.

Jeff

[tim atherton]

If the labels were put there as a can't-miss-it flag for exposed vs. unexposed film, why is the white label on the "black" side of the dark slide. White is for unexposed; black for exposed. This is a mixed symbol. Must be some other reason.

Jeff

it must...?

[David A. Goldfarb]

If the labels were put there as a can't-miss-it flag for exposed vs. unexposed film, why is the white label on the "black" side of the dark slide. White is for unexposed; black for exposed. This is a mixed symbol. Must be some other reason.

Jeff

I'd guess they are on the black side so the user could write the exposure and development info on the side that would be out for an exposed sheet.

[Mick Fagan]

I have to remove bar coded labels from some of the products we use at work.

The best solution we came up with was to hit the label with a hot air gun until the label started to get almost too hot to handle, then just peel the label off. It helps if you have one of the corners alread pulled up slightly so you can grab it.

After that it is nearly always just a simple clean with Eucalyptus oil (100%) which takes about 30 seconds or so.

Perhaps you could try using a hair dryer on the hot setting?

Mick.

[Kevin Crisp]

Mark: If you've already picked up some Goo Gone I bet that will work. If you haven't, try 3M Adhesive Remover which is available at Pep Boys and lots of other automotive places. It takes off adhesives really well and I've found a number of other uses for it too.

[Wilbur Wong]

I have to remove bar coded labels from some of the products we use at work.

The best solution we came up with was to hit the label with a hot air gun until the label . . . .
Perhaps you could try using a hair dryer on the hot setting?

Mick.

Mark, The hot air is IMHO the best advice. I use it often. Perhaps a little more problematic if they have been on for decades. PM or call me if you want to get past a hair dryer, I could lend you the commercial hot air gun (just don't set it on 1800 degrees, that frizzles hair and a few other things.)

Wilbur

[Mark Carstens]

Thanks again, everyone!

I may take you up on the hot air gun, Wilbur. I'm going to try the goo-gone first. From what I'm reading, it's apt to cause the least amount of harm. For $5 it's hard to go wrong :)

~Mark

[BrianShaw]

Nobody has mentioned peanut butter or vegetable oil yet. Both are reputed to be useful in removal of stuck-on stickers. Just smear it on and lick it off. Check out the "Hints from Heloise" web site. Sometimes it helps to first peel off the paper with a fingernail. :D

[Jim Noel]

You did not say which side of the dark slides the labels are on. If they are exposed when turning the slide to indicate exposed film, they would be a very good way to write exposure/development notes. This would be very handy when time to develop the film.
Perhaps these were put on by someone used to the now extinct film packs which had labels attached to each sheet of film.

I wish I had thought of this years ago. Wouldn't it be nice if someone manufactured darkk slides with write on areas on one side.

[Skip Abadie]

A soak of a few hours in Oxyclean and hot water works to remove labels from beer bottles and the adhesive too. A short soak in a very weak vinegar solution will remove any white residue left behind by the Oxyclean.