efke 25 and PMK pyro dev times.

[false_Aesthetic]

Hey,

One of my profs at school suggested I try developing the Efke in pyro. We've got boxes of PMK at school but I can't find any starting point dev. times.

I have, however, found the following:

ISO 16 510-pyro 35/120 1:100 5 min
ISO 12 Pyrocat-HD 35/120 1:1:100 10 min
ISO 25 Pyrocat-HD 35/120 2:2:100 10 min

Any thoughts?

Thanks

T

oh yeah, attached are examples of what I'm trying to do . . . sunrises 20-40 min. f32-45 w/ ND on the front. I'm really trying to keep everything except the sun from blowing out.

[false_Aesthetic]

BTW.

I PROMISE that this will be the last time I bother ya'll bout efke stuff.

T

[Glenn Thoreson]

I think the last time I looked, the J&C site had starting times for Efke 25 in PMK. Have you checked the massive development chart at digitaltruth.com ?

[false_Aesthetic]

I checked both.

I'm even assuming adox 25 and efke 25 are the same. . . . there's nothing.

*sigh*

T

[alec4444]

I PROMISE that this will be the last time I bother ya'll bout efke stuff.

Please don't (not bother us about Efke stuff). I use and love Efke and I have a lot of the same questions. I'll see what I can dig up on Efke 25 and pyro. I've heard of listings for Efke and other Pyro developers (ABC Pyro, Pyrocat HD) if you're willing to switch. But it sounds like you have a free-flowing source of PMK, and free is free.

You might consider shooting some 120 with a Holga or something and just play with it until you get it right....would save some cost of the larger film sizes...

--A

[Sylvester Graham]

I've used efke 25 with PMK. Mostly with 35mm but also a little in 4x5. I started at 7 min at 1-2-100. I used that for a while but found the contrast to be excessive. For low contrast scenes I found I was printing at grade 0-1 1/2 most of the time. Sometimes 00. As far as high contrast scenes, forget it.

I'de try closer to 5-1/2 min for starters.

This is a very odd film (at least by what we know today), and with PMK the combination becomes even stranger. I've gotten some great shots, but WATCH THE HIGHLIGHTS. They block up to an unbelievable degree. I found I was burning skies at 3-4 times the exposure of the foreground. I almost shoot efke 25 like a transparency, making sure never to blow the highlights. The film holds shadows extremely well so shadow detail is rarely a problem.

There doesn't seem to be to much info on this combination on the net (believe me I've looked), so I think your best is to do some simple testing of your own. You've got a fountain of PMK, so why not.

-Alex

PS: WEAR GLOVES! (if you don't already)

[false_Aesthetic]

Thanks for the info! It works!


T.

[rc1776]

I use ADOX/EFKE 50 @ a calibrated 40asa
Formats: 8X10, 8X20, 5X7, and 4X5 negatives.
Enlargers: Saltzman 14X14, Durst 10X10, Durst 138S 5X7,
and several smaller Durst 1200s

This is for tank dip and dunk development. I use rigorous agitation.
I have none of the problems the Gordon Hutchins alludes to in his PYRO book.
I have never liked tray processing.
70 degrees F
I have a reverse osmosis unit in the darkroom and use pure water in all processes.
Pre soak 2 minutes
PMK normal is 15 minutes with normal 30 second agitation.
Rinse 3 minutes.
Then normal fix in acid free fixer.
Re developement of three minutes in used developer.
Wash is important as the stain continues to build -> 40 minutes minimum.

This has consistently produced negatives that print with the Aristo cold lights on normal settings with lovely cloud highlights and remarkable shadow detail.
With 8X10 and 8X20 times are slightly longer.
These films do not "pull" well.
I recommend normal exposures for most subjects. When I desire contrast I use Tech Pan or Agfa 25 (both discontinued, but I have a freezer full of the stuff).

Rodinal is a fine developer for the ADOX?EFKE films and a plethora of times and tips are available on the Massive Charts as well as others.
Enjoy

Ron Cole Ancient cowpoke, mud Marine, and Aviator http://www.banwart.net