Toho Shimo FC-45X

[naturephoto1]

Hi All,

I plan on ordering the Toho Shimo FC-45X from Badger Graphics in about a week. I have read through Kerry Thalmann's review of this camera many times and also reviewed many of the discussions of the camera here on this Forum and elsewhere on the web.

Presently my 4 X 5 Camera is a Linhof Technikardan 45S. I plan on continuing to use the camera as my main 4 X 5 but intend to use the Toho as my long hiking, travel, and backpacking camera. I plan on making the modifications to the camera as per Kerry which include the removal of the folding hood (use foam core as a GG protector) and remove the mounting block and replace it with a Really Right Stuff QR for my Arca Type QR. I spoke with RRS about a plate that would fit the camera, but the plate that Kerry used has been discontinued. If anyone knows what plate to use, I would appreciate it so that I can have the camera and the plate arrive at about the same time otherwise, I will have to check the camera, discuss the dimensions with RRS, order the part and await its arrival.

Additionally, at least to begin with, I intend to try one of Dave Parker's Satin Snow GG to replace the stock GG rather than make the big investment in a Maxwell screen.

From my reading here and elsewhere, I have gathered that the camera does not necessarily square perfectly and there is some concern about that. I also know that some of you have installed levels for setting up and squaring the camera.

I would appreciate any input and insight that you can give me regarding the use of the camera, its shortcomings, its strengths, limitations, etc. I know that I am also going to have to get used to the fact that the camera breaks down into 2 pieces for transport and to remove and switch the lens and film brackets for switching from horizontal to vertical. I will have to relearn using tilts and swings of the central type to the base type when switching from my Technikardan to the Toho. I am aware that the camera has a fixed bellows (the Eccentric Lens Panel is available for very wide angle lenses). I am also aware that the camera does not have a universal back and that reducing backs have to slide under the spring loaded film back (and my Horseman 6 X 12 back would need to be modified).

Thanks all.

Rich

[Ron Marshall]

I have had the Toho for about a year and am perfectly satisfied with it.

The base that the RRS plate replaces is not that heavy and can be used until you find a plate. I found one used on Ebay. The Satin Snow is a good idea.

I have not measured to see if the standards are parallel when the movements are zeroed, but I have not noticed any out of focus areas on the GG or my negs.

It took a little adjustment for me from my Sinar, but now that I am used to it I find it as easy to use as the Sinar. I use my 450mm on it with an extender board.

Enjoy the freedom on the trail.

[Harley Goldman]

I have used my Toho for a couple of years. Like you, it is my second camera (Arca Swiss is my main). I replaced the glass with the Maxwell and really like it. I have never used the Satin Snow, so I can't compare. I use a generic QR place on the bottom and it works just fine. Take your time finding a plate. The base will work just fine until you find something. Like Ron, I use lenses up to a 450mm with a tophat board (Ebony with two sections and a homemade baffle to cut down on bounced light). It works fine with my 80mm too. It is a great little camera! I very much enjoy using it.

[Anthony Lewis]

I have a Toho and am very happy with it. I use it as a backpacking camera and for that it is perfect. I use lens from 80mm to 450mm with no problems. I put the Schneider 47mm on it, and it did focus, but due to standards not perfectly parallel on the indent positions the shots were unsatisfactory. But using the 47mm on this camera is really pushing the limits. I've had a couple of minor problems. The rear standard would not lock tight. It was returned to Japan and came back perfect. Maybe a one off thing. I fitted a Maxwell screen which is brilliant. I highly recommend it. However i was originally supplied with the wrong size spacers. These were very minor problmes and easily fixed at no cost.

I find changing from portrait to landscape very easy once your've done it a couple of times. I bought a Sinar F2 for outdoor use but ended up not taking many shots as it did not backpack very well. With the Toho I use it all the time. You can have the highest spec camera in the world, but if it does not backpack then you end up staying at home. I very highly recommend this camera because now i am out there taking shots which is what I wanted to do all the time. Buy it!!

[Leonard Evens]

Since I've posted pretty often about my Toho FC-45X, you've probably read most everything I've had to say on the matter, so I don't know if I need to add much more.

I think I was one of the first to raise the issue of lack of parallelism for the standards in the detent positions, so perhaps I should say that you needn't worry too much about this.. I am somewhat of a stickler for getting things right, and I often notice things other people would ignore. My guess is that the Toho is no worse in this regard than many other view cameras. The problem is basically that there is a small amount of play in the detent positions and that can put the standards slightly off. I first noticed the problem when using a 75 mm lens photographing a building facade. It is not usually an issue even for my 90 mm lens. And in any case, it is easy enough to adjust. Once the standards are set to parallel, it is my experience that they stay that way until the next time you use a tilt or swing, even if you take the camera apart for transport.

The most annoying thing about the Toho, from my point of view, is that the knob for locking the tilt angle on the front standard can hit the bellows on rises, and that can limit the amount of rise for wide angle lenses more than necessary. But I now use the eccentric lensboard, so I can get as much rise as my wide angle lenses can accomodate.

The default gg is not bad, but my Maxwell screen is a real pleasure to use.

One point I don't think I've raised before is that the column for adjusting rise/fall on the front standard can sometimes become sticky and also it can slip unexpectedly, although this has never happened during an exposure. It may just be a slight defect in my particular camera. I tried using oil or lithium grease to deal with this, but eventually I found that the best solution is just to clean the column regularly.

I also haven't been able to figure out which RRS bracket would work. So let us know if you find out which one to use. But I find the support that comes with the camera works well. Using a bracket would mainly save space during transport and it would also reduce the weight slightly.

You might look at my essay at
www.math.northwestern.edu/~len/photos/pages/dof_essay.pdf
to see how to add a scale to the focusing knob. That allows for much finer control when using focus spread methods for focusing and determining f-stop.

[Ron Marshall]

Thank-you Leonard for the information on your homepage, very interesting.

My front rise is not sticky, but is prone to slip usless locked down tightly.

[Harley Goldman]

Ditto on my front rise. It does not stick, but if not carefully tightened, it can slide.

[Leonard Evens]

Ditto on my front rise. It does not stick, but if not carefully tightened, it can slide.

My experience has been that the slipping is also fixed, at least for a while, by cleaning the post.

[naturephoto1]

Thanks for the input so far guys.

For those that have the camera, can you confirm the size (1/4 20???) of the thread for the screw (s) holding the mounting block onto the rail. Are there 2 screws and the spacing? Also, which way do the screws enter the mounting block; that is are they going in from the top from the rail or from the bottom through the mounting block. Also, how do the screws screw into the rail? The reasons for the questions revolve around the proper RRS mounting plate. We think that we know the one (or one of) the proper plates. But this information would just about confirm our suspicions.

Thanks very much.

Rich

[naturephoto1]

Well, I've gone and done it. I ordered the Toho FC-45X from Bager Graphic this morning. :) It will be going out tomorrow and will arrive next week. After discussions with RRS, information provided from Ron Marshall, and Kerry Thalmann's photos and description, we have come to the conclusion that an MPR-73 1/4" should work on the camera. This is one of their new RRS Multipurpose rails that allows the sliding of two 1/4" -20 screws in place along a slot. This was ordered yesterday. I will confirm fit upon arrival of the camera and the QR plate. Also at Leonard's suggestion, I have an adhesive backed metric metal tape on order to afix to the camera.

I will call Dave Parker and order a Satin Snow GG soon after the arrival of the camera.

I will keep you posted on the camera, my comments, and reactions to its capabilities, features, etc.

Thanks for the help.

Rich

[Leonard Evens]

Thanks for doing the work to figure out which RRS bracket will work.

Let me suggest that in addition to putting a scale on the rail, you also put a scale on the focusing knob using the method I described in my essay. That will allow you to focus down to an accuracy of a couple of tenths of a mm, and that can come in handy when using focus spread methods, particularly if the tootal focus spread is not too large.

If you encounter any other gltiches with your camera, let us know. I'm sure there are a few things we forgot to mention which we will be able to tell you how to deal with.

Enjoy the camera.

[naturephoto1]

Hi Leonard,

As to the RRS QR, I will confirm the fit upon receipt of camera and QR. Will let you know how it works. The plate is supposed to weigh 1.6oz.

I will consider your suggestion regarding the scale around the focusing knob. Before I do that however, I will see how things work with the laminated card that came with my Linhof Technikardan that provides information to determine Hyperfocal focus. If I do not find the card, with instructions, and mm ruler (on the card) adequate with the metric tape that I will install, I will consider it more carefully.

Thanks for all the assistance.

Rich

[Jeffrey Sipress]

There are probably dozens of plates that wil fit, since the requirement is simply for a small square or rectangular plain plate that has no features particular to a specific camera. Any short (maybe 1.5 - 2" long) plate for a telephoto lens will work. It's just a plain ol' arca type plate. I make all my plates (and lens boards) in my machine shop. Find a local machine shop to make or modify whatever you need.
On my Toho, I lightly oiled all the threaded areas and waxed all the ways (sliding areas). It still requires a bit of finess to loosen the knob just enough to slide the standard without messing up other things or having it lean. And what's all this talk about 'out of square' standards? They are very close, except to the nitpickers. But who cares on a view camera? You can and usually will adjust the standards when focusing and composing anyway. That's why we use view cameras!

[naturephoto1]

Hi Jeffrey,

Thanks for the input. As to the plate, since as I understand it the original mounting block used two 1/4" 20 screws, I have gotten a 2.9" long 1.6oz plate with 2 screws in this size. The 2 screws act to avoid twist and additionally the slightly longer plate will allow for better balancing of the camera and lens combinations in my Kirk 2 1/2" Arca type QR.

Rich

[Jeffrey Sipress]

I doubt the the mounting block screws are 1/4-20's. That's an american standard thread and the Toho is japanese, thus using metric threads. You will need to make a spacer to place the Arca type plate the same distance from the toho rail as with round the original, in order to not interfere with the sliding standard mounts. If you just put the new plate under the toho rail, you will have interference. You can make it out of hardwood if you don't have access to metalworking equipment. Use the original Toho screws after drilling two holes at the proper spacing in both the new plate and the spacer. You will need to countersink the holes in the plate if the screws are flatheads (I forgot if that's true).

[Leonard Evens]

And what's all this talk about 'out of square' standards? They are very close, except to the nitpickers. But who cares on a view camera? You can and usually will adjust the standards when focusing and composing anyway. That's why we use view cameras!

As an acknowledged nitpicker, let me explain why I raised the issue. I first encountered this in architectural photography when first using my 75 mm lens, and photographing a building facade. Even with my biright Maxwell screen, it is hard to focus critically at the extremes of the field, particularly if you use some movements. Under enlargement, as when making a print, blurriness will be apparent. Of course, if you spend enough time at it, use a tilting loupe, apply a slight corrective swing, etc., you can deal with all this in the field, but it is easier for me to start with the standards parallel. Since the titling and swing movements are not geared, it may take a little time to make the required small adjustments, so it is better to do that at leisure than under field conditions.

Let me emphasize again that this is only an issue for wide angle lenses and mainly for certain situations in architectural photography. For most landscape photography it would be irrelevant.

[Ernest Purdum]

Regarding 1/4 - 20 screws, they are a long-accepted international standard even in countries that have long ago accepted the more sensible metric dimensions. Some cameras do have larger 3/8" sockets, often bushed down to 1/4". Its amusing that these cameras are frequently very light German plate cameras or 35mm types while the rather alarmingly small 1/4" sockets are found on quite heavy monorails.

In actual fact, 1/4" fasteners are quite strong enough if of good quality, but one 1/4" screw is still not a very good way to attach a camera to a tripod, if only because it is too easy to put it out of alignment.

[Bruce Watson]

Regarding 1/4 - 20 screws, they are a long-accepted international standard...

Thanks, I needed a laugh today!

Truthiness aside, the Toho adheres to long-accepted ISO standards. The mount screws in mine are 6mm.

[naturephoto1]

I am still not sure if I am getting the right screws or plate. However, the RRS plate that is on its way is MPR-73-73 1/4". This is one of RRS new multipurpose rails. The plate with the stops is $55, 73mm long, 38mm wide, x 9.3mm deep. The plate includes two 1/4" 20 screws that sit in an open groove that allows for proper placement. The plate (with or without??) the accessory stops is supposed to weigh 1.6oz. I believe that the 38mm width will probably allow for no interferance with moving the standards or anything else on the camera and should not require any spacer; but I could be mistaken. The two 1/4" 20 screws together should be strong enough to support the camera, lenses, etc and the 2 screws should prevent torque rotaion of the plate.

Here is the RRS link:

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/mpr/index.html

I have included a photo.

Rich

[Jeffrey Sipress]

That plate is more complex than needed, Look at the B27:

http://reallyrightstuff.com/media/full_size/B27TOP.jpg

Simple. All you need.

[Kerry L. Thalmann]

Rich,

Sorry I didn't reply sooner. We've recently had a serious illness in our family that has kept me off the forums and email for the last three or four weeks.

Bruce is correct, the original Toho mounting screws are the metric M6 size.

On my camera, I didn't use screws to match the 1/4-20 mounting holes in the RRS dovetail plate. To do so would have required a minor permanent modification to the Toho rail - slightly enlarging the original mounting holes and countersink (at the time, I was sent the Toho for review purposes and had not pruchased it. So, I didn't want to make any permanent modifications that would alter the camera and prevent returing the it to it's stock configuration). I used two thin nuts that fit nicely into recessed wells on the botom of the RRS plate I used to mount it to the Toho rail. I don't have the camera in front of me right now, and it's been over seven years since I modified my camera, I don't recall the screw size I used off the top of my head. It may have been the original M6 mounting screws with matching M6 nuts, or it may have been a slightly smaller Imperial size screw and matching nuts. I'll try to check whan I have a chance.

It sounds like you are trying to mount the plate to the rail with the screws insterted from the bottom. On my camera, the flat head, countersunk mounting screws are installed from the top of the rail (same as the original factory configuration), with the nuts, residing in the recessed wells of the RRS plate, threaded on from the bottom.

Honestly, when I wrote my original Toho review seven years ago, I never expected anyone to try to recreate my modifications. If I had known others would attempt similar mods, I would have went into more detail.

Hope that helps some and it's not too little too late.

Kerry

[Kerry L. Thalmann]

If you just put the new plate under the toho rail, you will have interference.

Not necessarily. It depends on the width of the plate. As long as the plate isn't wider than necessary, it should not interfere in any way with the position of the front and rear standards.

What can cause interference, and limit how close togther you can get the Toho front and rear standards, is the mating clamp on your tripod head. How close you can get the standards then becomes a function of the length of the mounting clamp on your tripod head. For backpacking with my Toho, the mounting clamp on my tripod head is short enough to allow me to use my shortest lenses without any interference (and lately, I've been using an ultralight Velbon magnesium ball head without a mounting clamp that simply mounts to the bottom of my RRS plate using a standard captive 1/4-20 mounting screw).

However, if I attempt to use my Toho with my ARCA-SWISS B1 with it's standard 60mm long mounting clamp, interference does become and issue with ultrawide lenses. On the rare occasions when this particular combination (Toho, ARCA-SWISS B1 on Gitzo 1325, with an ultrawide lens) occurs, I have two possible work arounds.

One is to simply raise the front and rear standards by equal amounts to clear the mounting clamp. Or, if a fair amount of front rise is desired, leave the back standard rise/fall in the neutral position and apply enough rise to the front standard to clear the mounting clamp.

The other possibility is to move both the front and rear standards onto the rear rail section (the one with the focusing gear) and move this assembly to the position usually occupied by the front (no gear) rail section. This is more involved than the previous option as it requires temporarily reconiguring the location of the rear rail section. So, I usually just use the first method. Although, to be honest, this happens very rarley for me. The ARCA-SWISS B1 is my most sturdy head and works great with all my bigger, heavier cameras. The whole point of the Toho is to travel light. Therefore, I almost always use it in combination with my smaller, ligher, modified Gitzo 1227 leg set and either the Velbon magnesium head or the modified Slik Standard Ballhead II with the shorter Kirk QR clamp. When used with either of these heads, interfernce is simply not an issue even with my shortest lenses.

Kerry

[naturephoto1]

Well my Toho Shimo FC-45X and my RRS QR both arrived. I have been making the modificiations to the camera, QR, etc. First, I removed the focusing hood and cut a piece of foam core much like done by Kerry Thalmann. I also removed the mounting block and did the best that I could to replace the block with the QR that came in from RRS a MPR-73 (with two 1/4" 20 captive screws). When I removed the mounted block I confirmed that the screws were not the right size for mounting the QR. I went to Home Depot and found that the countersunk screws that held the mounting block were M5 (not M6) for the nuts. Unfortunately the nuts are little too deep, but for a short term fix they work. I will try to go to a good hardware store to get thinner nuts.

The nuts which hold the M5 screws which go through the QR channel are too deep and prevent the plate from sliding in my newer Kirk QR clamp (which works with stops to prevent sliding. This is not a problem with my older Kirk and RRS Arca Type QR clamps. The QR itself does not stop the QR from sliding into the QR clamp, but the supports for the camera standards do. So, as a result, I have to open the clamp all or almost all the way for the QR to mount into the clamp. Because of the length of my main QR clamps I am unable to focus my Rodenstock 75mm f6.8 Grandagon N MC lens at infinity unless I use a lot of rise to lift the supports above the QR clamp. The other options that I have are to get a smaller (or find one of my smaller) QR clamps, remove the stops on the telescoping rails and flip them around as Kerry has done, or to add geared focusing to the front telescoping rail as suggested by Kerry in his camera review.

Additionally, I removed one of the Toho labels and attached an 18cm adhesive tape measure onto the side of the focusing rail.

The camera appears to have arrived with a weight of just about 3 pounds exactly. With all of the modifications including the removal of the focusing hood, usage of the foam core GG protector, removal of the mounting block and the installation of the RRS plate, removal of the Toho label and attaching the tape measure, the camera now weighs 2 lbs 12 oz.

I have been playing with the camera and will probably order a replacement Satin Snow GG from Dave Parker.

So far I like the camera. I will have to play with it more and practice, practice, practice. The camera is amazingly light and the telescoping rail collapses down to about 9" and the bellows appears to be approaching 385-390mm?? The camera appears to be extremely rigid for its weight, especially after the replacement of the mounting block with the RRS QR.

The camera as many know is a bit unusual to switch from horizontal to vertical. There is a bit of flex in the lens board when locked into the standard but should probably be OK. The same is true for the film back which appears to have a bit more flex in the vertical orientation.

As some of you know the camera uses its own round lens boards as well as Linhof Technika IV type boards (which have to be mounted at an angle). Both work, however, no question that the round boards work more easily. The lenses are mounted onto the front standard with a sliding and swinging type of lock (top and bottom) to hold the lens boards in place. This will take practive for me to improve monting and removing lenses, particularly those on the Linhof type boards. I have also found in part because of the swinging locks, I have to be particularly careful of the rear elements of lenses like my 75mm Grandagon.

Additionally, I will have to play with and practice with the controls and switching from horizontal to vertical. As many of you know, the camera does not have a Graflock back, however, the spring back opens very wide and should allow for the usage of Graflock type backs, though some like the Horseman as I understand it will need one of the vertical ridges milled down to work with the camera.

So far, I am quite pleased and will keep you informed of my experiences with the camera (including a sharp Congo f6.3 90mm WA lens).

Rich

[Leonard Evens]

Well my Toho Shimo FC-45X and my RRS QR both arrived.

Great. It is always great fun playing with a new camera.



Additionally, I removed one of the Toho labels and attached an 18cm adhesive tape measure onto the side of the focusing rail.


I don't want to get boring, but I still recommend attaching a scale to the focusing knob.



I have been playing with the camera and will probably order a replacement Satin Snow GG from Dave Parker.


I found the gg supplied with the camera to be adequate except for wide angle lenses in dim light. Eventually, I got a Maxwell screen. It was more expensive than other alternatives, but well worth it.



So far I like the camera. I will have to play with it more and practice, practice, practice. The camera is amazingly light and the telescoping rail collapses down to about 9" and the bellows appears to be approaching 385-390mm??


I think it is more like 360 mm. If you want to use the camera with anything longer than about 300 mm, an extenstion tube like that described at Kerry's web site is in order. When I use my 300 mm lens, I usually check the standards carefully because the bellows is stretched close to its maxium and could pull the standards out of parallel.



The lenses are mounted onto the front standard with a sliding and swinging type of lock (top and bottom) to hold the lens boards in place. This will take practive for me to improve monting and removing lenses, particularly those on the Linhof type boards. I have also found in part because of the swinging locks, I have to be particularly careful of the rear elements of lenses like my 75mm Grandagon.


I'm not sure just what you mean. I have a 75 mm f/4.5 Grandagon-N, and I've never had any problem. I suppose that with any lens the rear assembly could hit the bellows, but I don't believe I've ever encountered that problem with any of my lenses. I have an eccentric lens board for my 75 mm lens, and I have to remember to roatate it back to its neutral position or I can't remove the standards assembly from the rail or close the assembly, but I don't think you are talking about anything like that.

The main problem with wide angle lenses is that the knob used to lock front tilt limits how far you can rise because it hits the bellows. There isn't too much rise available anyway with such lenses because of bellows stiffness, but you could get a bit more except for the position of the knob. The eccentric lensboard solves both problems.

[naturephoto1]

Hi Leonard,

By chance do you have the scale that you prepared for the focusing knob of the camera? If you do or you can simplify the measurements for the scale, I will try to install it onto my camera. Otherwise, I will have to read through your paper more carefully to see how you prepared the scale.

By the way, I replaced the nuts on attaching the RRS MPR-73 QR plate to the camera and the rail slides into my QR clamp with no problem.

I have been playing with the camera with my Rodenstock 75mm f6.8 Grandagon N MC lens. I have found that by moving the front standard to the rear geared focusing rail I am able to focus the lens at at least 50 to 100 feet with no problem as well as at infinity. I did not see the front portion of the rail on the GG so I suspect that this will be my way of using this focal length on the camera. I will have to confirm on film though that the rail will not be recorded on film (but I presume that the GG viewing demonstrates that it is not a problem).

Having the longer QR plate (73mm long) is an aid in positioning the camera and the standards both at the front and the rear of the camera (proved valuable with the 75mm lens). To move the standard to the rear geared portion however, I do have to remove the camera from the QR clamp, slide the front standard and reload it into the clamp. Seems to work fine without much difficulty.

As I have indicated already the rail is extremely rigidly mounted onto the Kirk QR by way of the QR plate even with the rail extended.

Rich

[Leonard Evens]

Hi Leonard,

By chance do you have the scale that you prepared for the focusing knob of the camera? If you do or you can simplify the measurements for the scale, I will try to install it onto my camera. Otherwise, I will have to read through your paper more carefully to see how you prepared the scale.


I am attaching a jpeg file which is an image of the scale. All you have to do it to print it. But you will have to adjust its size so it fits precisely around the knob. I use the Gimp as a photoeditor, and in that the length is set at 95.5 mm. I think that is correct, but I would have to check the camera to be sure, and it is not handy right now. In any case, you should make appropriate adjustments using your printer.

If you can't manage that, I could , if necessary send you a copy by snail mail.

Perhaps I should add that you need to tape something with a reference mark on the camera so you can use the scale. That is described in my essay.



I have been playing with the camera with my Rodenstock 75mm f6.8 Grandagon N MC lens. I have found that by moving the front standard to the rear geared focusing rail I am able to focus the lens at at least 50 to 100 feet with no problem as well as at infinity. I did not see the front portion of the rail on the GG so I suspect that this will be my way of using this focal length on the camera. I will have to confirm on film though that the rail will not be recorded on film (but I presume that the GG viewing demonstrates that it is not a problem).


As I noted previously, I have the 75 mm f/4.5 Grandagon-N. I just use it normally with the front standard on the front rail and the rear standard on the geared rear focusing rail. Unless the f/6.8 version is very different, I don't see why you would want to move the front standard back to the rear rail. But perhaps I am missing something.

[naturephoto1]

Hi Leonard,

Thanks for the scale. I will attempt to adjust the scale size and then try to apply it to the knob.

As to the question of the f 6.8 75mm Grandagon lens and the way that I am adjusting the position of the camera standards and focusing, this is due to the length (and width) of my Kirk Arca Type QR clamp. The clamp interferes with the proper placement (along the camera rail) of the dove tail bars that are used to adjust the camera rise of the front and rear standards (similar to Kerry's comments about his Arca Swiss B1 clamp). Due to this interference, I have to move the front standard so that both standards are close enough for focusing the camera. If the original mounting block was used instead of the RRS QR plate that is directly attached to the camera monorail, there would be no problem to adjust the distance of the standards for focusing.

Rich

[naturephoto1]

Hi Leonard,

I was able to adjust the scale, printed it out in black and applied it to my focusing knob of my camera. I will let you know how this works.

I also have a Kinesis bag that I hope arrives later today or tomorrow for carrying the camera into the field along with lenses, filters, meter, etc. The bag is made of 200 denier nylon and designed to be carried in another bag (such as their Journeyman) so it is not as heavy gauge nylon (and as a result lighter). I will carry it generally in my custom made MacHale panel loading pack; I have extra dividers coming. I will have to borrow a digital camera and photograph the bag with the camera and contents and upload it later.

In the meantime, this is the link to the bag:

http://www.kgear.com/p/

Rich

[naturephoto1]

Sorry for those that have looked, apparantly I did not quite get the Kinesis link copied exactly for the bag; this is the correct link:

http://www.kgear.com/p/V092.html

Rich

[Rakesh Malik]

My Ebony travels in one of those, attached to the interior of my Journeyman pack.

That bag has enough room for the camera, the darkcloth, a my old Tiffen filter wallet, my lens shade clip (used to attach the darkcloth), my loupe, and my Sekonic lightmeter.

Check out the "good backpack" thread for more :)

[naturephoto1]

Hi Rakesh,

The Kinesis V092 bag just arrived about an hour and a half ago. I have been playing with it and configured it to carry: the Toho FC-45X camera broken into its 2 pieces for travel with lens attached, 3 additional lenses (stacked separated with closed cell foam), my Zone VI modified Soligor Digi Spot II meter, 4? packed Singh-Ray Cokin P sized filters, Cokin P holder with 2 adapter rings, Horizon 4X lupe in a Zing lens pouch, and my BTZS focusing cloth. The packing does include putting things on top of the camera rail. The lenses that I loaded were on lens boards on the camera into placed into the case are: Rodenstock f5.6 150mm Apo Sironar S, Rodenstock f9 240mm Apo Ronar MC, Rodenstock f9 300mm Apo Ronar MC, and a Congo F6.3 WA 90mm lens. I have to borrow a digital camera so that I can upload photos of the kit. Amazingly compact and light weight set-up. The bag as mentioned earlier in the thread is normally to be carried in my custom made McHale panel loading pack, but will also fit into much smaller panel loading packs as well.

Rich

[roteague]

The Kinesis V092 bag just arrived about an hour and a half ago. I have been playing with it and configured it to carry: the Toho FC-45X camera broken into its 2 pieces for travel with lens attached, 3 additional lenses (stacked separated with closed cell foam), my Zone VI modified Soligor Digi Spot II meter, 4? packed Singh-Ray Cokin P sized filters, Cokin P holder with 2 adapter rings, Horizon 4X lupe in a Zing lens pouch, and my BTZS focusing cloth. The packing does include putting things on top of the camera rail.

Wow!! That is quite a bit. Any idea what the weight on that thing loaded is?

[naturephoto1]

Wow!! That is quite a bit. Any idea what the weight on that thing loaded is?

Hi Robert,

Using my Excel spread sheet for the above items (including the equivalent to 3 Linhof cable releases and UV filters on each lens) (and based upon the weight of the individual items, not confirmed for the total package) is about 144.2 oz or 9.0125 pounds. I hope that I have not forgotten anything on the list in the spreadsheet. The weight is only for the gear mentioned and the case itself which needs to be carried inside a pack. This weight does not include my Readyload Holder, 40 sheets of Fuji Quickload Film, Gnass Gear Rapid Load 3 Pouch to carry the Readyload Holder and Fuji QL film, Gitzo Carbon Fiber 1257 with Markins M20 Head, Think Tank Bazooka Tripod Case or Day or Backpack.

Rich

[roteague]

Good. That would put it under the 7kg limit of some foreign domestic flights, and leave plenty of room for domestic US flights as well.

[Rakesh Malik]

I think that I'll probably end up planning to get one of those Toho's for overseas travel, since my current kit with my Ebony camera and all of the lenses and necessities (including the tripod, film, and film holders) weighs in at close to 40 pounds. It's quite a bit of stuff to haul up a mountain! :D

[John Clifford]

I too have just received my Toho Shimo FC-45X and would like to play at replacing the rail mount with the MPR-73 or B27 plates mentioned above. But I am having a difficult time understanding the nature of a "plate". Is this something that fits between the Toho rail and the tripod plate which is clamped on my Giotto pan head? Or does the plate substitute for the tripod head clamp? In which case how do you fit it to your various types of tripod heads. ? Surely all tripods have their own unique plates..eg Manfretto will not fit a Giotto etc.
I have visited the RRS site and looked at the images and cannot see how I could fit the MPR-73 or B27 plates onto my Giotto or Manfrotto tripod heads. What am I missing here?
John

[Bruce Watson]

I too have just received my Toho Shimo FC-45X and would like to play at replacing the rail mount with the MPR-73 or B27 plates mentioned above. But I am having a difficult time understanding the nature of a "plate". Is this something that fits between the Toho rail and the tripod plate which is clamped on my Giotto pan head? Or does the plate substitute for the tripod head clamp? In which case how do you fit it to your various types of tripod heads. ? Surely all tripods have their own unique plates..eg Manfretto will not fit a Giotto etc.
I have visited the RRS site and looked at the images and cannot see how I could fit the MPR-73 or B27 plates onto my Giotto or Manfrotto tripod heads. What am I missing here?
John

Typically the "plates" are adapters -- they are the interface beween the tripod head and the camera. For example, I replaced the plate that came on my Toho (the one that's basically a big round nut designed for your "standard" screw-mount tripod head) with an Arca-Swiss quick release plate for use with my Arca-Swiss B1 ball head.

[naturephoto1]

Hi John,

The point of the RRS MPR-73 plate is to take advantage of the Arca Type QR clamps for mounting the camera to the tripod head. First you will need to remove the mounting block from the rail of the camera. The block screws in from the top of the rail. The screws used to hold the mounting block in place are metric an M5. These will need to be used to mount the RRS MR-73 plate in place. Using the screws you first need to remove the two captive 1/4 20 screws through the large end of the channel of the MPR-73. The M5 screws will drop in from the top of the plate however, you will need to purchase 2 M5 nuts to lock the plate in place at the bottom of the rail. The purpose of using the 2 rather than 1 screw is to prevent the camera/rail from twisting. You will need to make sure that the nuts will lock down inside the MR-73 channel so that they do not extend beyond the channel and interefere with the sliding of the plate in an Arca Type QR clamp.

Once the RRS plate is locked to the rail and the plate is locked into the Arca type QR you fill find that the rail and the camera are quite rigid with little flex. You may find a bit more flex when you extend the rail near its maximum with heavy telephoto or an extenstion tube top hat attached to something like the Fuji 450mm f12.5 C lens.

I will finally be testing the camera lenes etc. hopefully within the week. I have the Satin Snow Ground Glass on order from Dave Parker and look forward to receiving it in some months to come.

Rich

[John Clifford]

Thank you Rich and Bruce. I guess my confusion lay in thinking that Kerry Thalmann et al. were refering to a general method of attaching the Toho rail to any type of quick release plate not just the Swiss-Arca brand. Seem stupid now, but once one fixates on a particular idea it seems to take forever to work yourself out of it. Now all I have to do is see if I can attach the rail to my Giotto quick release plate using the two M5 screws. But maybe that will not be such an improvement. Once again thanks. We beginners owe you forum guys a lot.
Love the Toho after four years of using a Crown Graphic "machined" to give the lens board swing and tilt.
Best wishes
John

[naturephoto1]

Hi John,

Replacing the Camera mounting block and attaching the rail with the M5 screws directly to the QR plate for your Giotto head should lessen and/or elliminate much of the flex that was in the original mounting system for the camera. It should make the system lighter, faster to load, more sure in mounting to the tripod head, and more rigid with less flex. However, with this modification there may be a greater likelihood that the standards for the camera may interere with focusing lenses 75mm and shorter at infinity. Amongst other options, if that proves a problem is to move the front standard to the rear section (where you focus) and then to mount the camera/QR plate onto the tripod head. You will have to at least confirm on the GG that the front of the rail will not record on the film.

Good luck.

Rich