Travel to Myanmar [Burma]

[Gregory Ng]

I plan to go to Myanmar [Burma] for a week this December. Are there any restrictions to large format photography? Do I need to apply for a permit like in Cambodia? What are the best sites? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

[Ron Marshall]

I was there three years ago, but only with a 35mm. At Bagan, there were guards in a few of the major temples, especially the ones that visitors were not permitted to climb. I set-up my tripod wherever I wanted. I also went to Angkor Wat, which recieves many more visitors than Bagan and is much better organised.

Only once was I prohibited from taking a photo. I was shooting two young women who were busy repairing a main highway by hand, chipping pieces from rocks with a hammer and then pounding them into the road surface. The local general happened to pass by in his jeep at that moment and shouted at our driver to tell me to stop. For a split second I had visions of my film being confiscated. But he immediately drove off.

There are many photogenic locations in Burma. It is a time capsule like Cuba. 40 year old wrecks, that you would only see in a junkyard in the US, are prized posessions, that appreciate in value due to the scarcity and cost of imports. The upside is that there is very little traffic, but it is possible to rent minivan and driver very cheaply, as I and a couple of friends did. Domestic flights are cheap, I think Mandalay to Bagan was about $40.

PM my if you need more info.

Get hold of a good guidebook; Lonely Planet is fairly good.

[Frank Petronio]

Is going to and spending hard currency in Myanmar a good thing to do? Isn't the government just slightly less crazy and evil than North Korea's? And by spending money there we end up helping to support the bastards?

[Ron Marshall]

Is going to and spending hard currency in Myanmar a good thing to do? Isn't the government just slightly less crazy and evil than North Korea's? And by spending money there we end up helping to support the bastards?

My money went to small business owners: hotels, restaurant, drivers. People just trying to get by in a tough situation.

The government gets most of their money from the sale of raw materials to China.

[CXC]

3 years ago we went to the standard places, Mandalay, Yangon, Inle Lake, Bagan, and that Gold Rock temple thing. Fabulous, best trip ever. No problems or concerns with LF, no permits needed. We hope to return and get further off the (lightly) beaten path, to the north, the mountains, some day soon. Highest recommendation.

3 years ago, and I believe it is still the case, Burma was not a member in good standing of the international banking community. This meant you had to bring all your money for the whole trip in cash, with US dollars HIGHLY recommended. Avoid governmental money changers, like at the airport, as they have unrealistically bad rates. There are no ATMs, and nobody takes credit cards, not even the fanciest hotels. This issue can be minimized by going on a pre-planned and pre-paid tour, which was still complicated for us, involving a manual exchange in Bangkok just before arrival. But it's the least expensive place I've ever been, by far, so there's a mitigation.

I can't believe that the gracious and delightful Burmese folks that we encountered, and paid our money to, would be any better off if we hadn't gone.

Westerners, don't drink the water, not even ice cubes, I can personally attest to.

[Helen Bach]

I've been reluctant to begin a reply to this thread, because I have way too much to say about Burma/Myanmar.

It may be that China isn't the biggest foreign supporter of the regime. Myanmar is a member of ASEAN, and they get a huge amount of all kinds of assistance from another ASEAN member in return for, well, a bit of this, a bit of that and lots of the other. It's easy enough to dig into if you want to.

I travelled around the parts of the Ayerawaddy delta that I could safely get to (because the government don't want foreigners travelling freely there), up the river to Pyay, then toured the countryside around Pyay by locally-rented pushbike (v. uncomfortable, but it was part of an attempt to avoid ostentation). I was only fired on once during my trip (I'm sure that they were shooting over my head), and managed to get all my three Leicas back after they were confiscated at an army checkpoint I blundered into (hmm, I wonder why this road is lined with barbed wire entanglements on both sides, guess I'd better go and find out!). The officers were very courteous, the other ranks were very respectful. I never felt that I was in personal danger.

I was most worried by gangs of stoned guys in small villages coming out into the road to stop me. After the first time I was stopped I learned to cycle away rapidly at the first sign of trouble instead of the second sign. Because the people are so friendly in general, I didn't expect the unpleasant attention. Fortunately I was in much better physical shape than any of those weedy stoners. Drug addiction and unemployment is a big problem.

I did run into trouble photographing near bridges (guarded by the army) and docks, but no more trouble than being told not to by a guy with a gun. Some temples I visited (not the primary purpose of my trip) discouraged photography in the most sacred parts. Otherwise I had no problems. I went to one 'museum' near Pyay and discovered that the $4 entry fee went to the government. The museum curator earned the equivalent of $4 a month. A lot of businesses, especially those that deal in dollars with foreigners, are owned by high-ranking army officers - in fact the army runs a lot of things in the country that armies don't normally get to run.

The people are very friendly, and their genuine concern for the well-being of a stranger is extraordinary. Some people dare not be seen talking to you, so you have to be sensitive to that. There are still a few people who remember the British, and their memories appear to be fond ones.

Best,
Helen

[Gregory Ng]

Thanks for all your great tips! I am glad that no permit is required for LF!
I think for a week I can only go to one place, either Mandalay-Bagan, or Yangon, or Inle lake. What are your votes?
For security, is it a good idea to hire a local guide or is there a local travel agency you can recommend?
Ron, I just bought the lonely planet book on Myanmar this morning. It seems to be the only one around.

[Ron Marshall]

Thanks for all your great tips! I am glad that no permit is required for LF!
I think for a week I can only go to one place, either Mandalay-Bagan, or Yangon, or Inle lake. What are your votes?
For security, is it a good idea to hire a local guide or is there a local travel agency you can recommend?
Ron, I just bought the lonely planet book on Myanmar this morning. It seems to be the only one around.

I used Lonely Planet to find a hotel, then had the hotel find me a local guide/driver. I was travelling with two Norwegians I had met. The van and driver was $20/day split three ways. Burma is very cheap, if you avoid the big hotels.

The vast majority of the people you will meet in Burma are very friendly and helpful. My driver took me to a tailor to have a camera bag repaired. Just something simple that took about five minutes. The tailor couldn't speak English. When I asked how much she said no charge. I insisted but she still refused. The driver said she really didn't want to be paid.

I mainly went to Burma in order to see Bagan, which along with Angkor Wat in Cambodia, I had wanted to see all of my life. The plain has about 6000 major and minor temples, the highest about 60 meters tall. The panorama over the plain at sunset is stunning. I cursed myself for only having a 35mm. Some of the larger temples may be climbed to attain a better perspective. When I was there there were fewer than 1000 tourists spread over the many square miles of the plain. The main subjects were the temples.

Burma is a beautiful country, but travel is somewhat slow, so I agree, with one week pick a single site. All of the flights in when I went landed at Yangon or Mandalay. I flew from Chaing Mai in Thailand to Mandalay. I didn't have the time or inclination to see Yangon. I flew with an airline based in Thailand, for safety reasons.

Inle lake is pleasant, but perhaps the most touristy place in Burma. I enjoyed my stay, and as a bonus was there for the funeral of Burma's top Buddist monk. Unfortunately, since the top generals were there also, there was a squad of troops stationed literally at every street corner. They were pleasant enough, and it was an interesting look at the power of the generals, but I had had enough after a few days and left.

If you give me a better idea of what you are interested in shooting I can perhaps give you some suggestions.

In 2003 Burma had 300,000 tourists. Thailand had 10 million. So wherever you go you won't feel overwhelmed and local character has been maintained.

[CXC]

Don't miss Bagan, as it is quite special.

[Ron Marshall]

Gregory, I forgot to mention, there is a forum at the Lonely Planer website, the Thorn Tree forum, where one can post questions concerning travel in various countries, and which has much current info:

http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/categories.cfm?catid=24

[Gregory Ng]

Thanks to you all for your great advice. My choice now is Bagan!

[Ron Marshall]

Thanks to you all for your great advice. My choice now is Bagan!

You won't regret it. Mandalay is also interesting, and photogenic.

I was there during a lantern festival. Paper hot-air-balloons, with a single candle to provide lift, are released by the thousands. There is not much exterior light in Mandalay. The sky was filled with these lanterns floating on the wind. A spectacular sight. Unfortunately occaional house fires result from unlucky landings.

[eddie]

myanmar is great photo op. sometimes if they think you are a pro they try and cgarge you extra to shoot in the temples. i tell them the "pros" use digital....ut usaully works. i have been shooting my RB there for 4 years now and have had no problems.

you no longer need to purchase FECs on arrival. there is no e mail available, well, no hotmail, yahoo, aol, etc etc. you nedd to bring all your money. BRING CASH! no credit cards no ATM and no travelers checks. CASH. change money at the black market. it is near the sule pagoda downtown. it is safe. the rate is currently 1320 kyat/$.

you can get medium format processed in yangon. C41 and E6. B&W is possible but a bit more difficult. check out some of my fav. photos. http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=449064


enjoy yourself and post photos when you return

eddie

[eddie]

oh! gett o bagan. it maybe the best place in Myanmar. i usually spend 2 weeks there. it is my favorite place. you do not need a guide, but sometimes they are very imformative.

eddie