wetmount scanning with the 1800f

[phil sweeney]

I'd like to wetmount scan 8 x 10s with my 1800f. After looking at the ScanScience supplies I'd like to get the Lumina Fluid and use the Microtec glass tray.

I did not like the kit ScanScience supplies as one must mount on the underside of the glass, using an overlay also using a sacrificial overlay (to squeegee) and tape the overlay down etc. I guess I initially was confused by the fact that the optics are below and the emulsion is up. So the optics "look through" the base and not direct to the emulsion.

If I use the tray I understand there is some image quality degradation from diffraction due to the glass in the tray. I can live with that, I just need to get rid of Newton rings! Just curious what others may be doing?

I thought I'd try to use a cover glass where I would mist the microtek tray, the negative on both sides, the cover glass on the underside, assemble, and wipe up the excess.

I'd appreciate any advice or insights!

[Peter Langham]

Phil,

I haven't wet mounted yet, but I am curious. I saved the following from a post I found somewhere. I can't vouch for it, but here it is:


"I have done this many times using both a flatbed (older Microtek, same design as the 1800F, with the 8x10 glass holder) and with the Polaroid Sprintscan 45 which has an optional glass holder.

The technique is relatively easy to explain but takes some practice to master:

1) Make sure the glass surface is clean, and that the film is clear of dust (to the extent possible)

2) Cut a piece of translucent mylar so it's just a bit larger than the film you plan to scan (about 3/8-1/2" on each side)

3) Spray Kami mounting fluid on the glass surface

4) Place your film on the gless (try laying down one side, then slowly loweing the film to the surface - this will reduce the amount of air bubbles trapped underneath)

5) Spray another layer of Kami fluid over the film

6) Lay the mylar over the film (using the same method described above)

7) Use a piece of lint-free soft cloth or PEC pad to push any air bubbles away from the film surface

Some people use mounting tape to hinge the myler. I found it to be unnecessary (you definitely do need it for drum scanners though). Since the mylar sticks out on each side, you can push the bubbles to the edge and the mylar keeps your film flat and tight).

Both Kami fluid and mylar can be purchased from Aztec and a number of other places.

After the scan, immediately remove the film from the glass and let dry. With 4x5 film it's pretty easy since the film is so thick you can just lean it against something so both surfaces are exposed to air.

The first time you try that you will learn to truly hate those little puncture holes made by the dip-and-dunk development machines - there is no way to completely eliminate air bubbles around them."

hope this helps and let us know how you do.

Peter

[Kirk Gittings]

You have to be careful with the kami fluid as it will over time disolve plastics. The Lumina fluid in superior in this respect. Mineral oil is used by some but is unproven in terms of archivability.

[phil sweeney]

Hi Peter, thanks for the post, that helps a lot.

Kirk, I tested this scanner from info in a post from you a while back: Home Testing Flatbed Scanners - thanks

[sanking]

You have to be careful with the kami fluid as it will over time disolve plastics. The Lumina fluid in superior in this respect. Mineral oil is used by some but is unproven in terms of archivability.

Kirk,

Just curious. Do you know of any resarch which indicates tht Kami or Lumina fluids give greater "archivalbility" than mineral oils? To this point I am not familar with any studies which show that the Kami and Lumina fluids are better in this sense than mineral oils.

Sandy King

[Kirk Gittings]

Research? no, I wish. I mispoke somewhat, I guess since Lumina Fluid is relatively new it is unproven too......Kami fluid having been around so long is proveb somewhat by the long term evidence. But this opinion of oil vs. Kami is not mine but based on a friends conversations with Mac Holbert (Nash Editions).

My personal experience with Kami fluid is based on all the images I have had drum scanned by magazines over the years, many of which go back now 30 years and have been scanned dozens of times. I only send one image out and reserve a good duplicate. The sent images shows alot of wear and tear but no color shifts, fading or bleaching compared to the duplicates. You can tell by the slight residual scent when Kami fluid is used. This is not research of course.

a note from the West Coast Imaging site:


Step Five: Mounting Your Film on the Drum
After cleaning, your film is mounted onto a clear mylar sheet. The mylar sheet is then lined up and attached to the drum. We then apply Kami mounting fluid evenly over the film. We only use Kami mounting fluid, which will not damage film, even with repeated scanning. It also evaporates instantly, leaving no residue. We never use oil, as we have seen evidence that oil does irreparable harm to film emulsion.

This "belief" about "oil" (which oil-who knows) seems to be widely held amongst professional scanners (as I found quite a few brief and vague references to it online) and of course it seems that sometimes Kami fluid does leave a film from commercial scanners-WHY-maybe bad work habits? So maybe it is all a crapshoot at this point.