Which non-jobo motor base for my jobo 3010?

[optV]

Hello,

I'm new to developing 4x5 negs. As the title states, I'm looking for a cheap motorized base solution for my jobo expert 3010 tank. I noticed the two most commonly mentioned bases are the one by beseler and the one by unicolor.

Can anyone tell me their experiences with either (mention specific models please). I am interested to know if there would be a variation in development times, etc with a non jobo base (when compared to a jobo processor).

I think I read somewhere that Jobo recommends a 50rpm speed and reverse after 2 rotations, some of the beselers are around 15rpm I believe. Another thing I read was that a 5 minute presoak (using a jobo machine) will give similar development times to tray development charts. Would this still apply as a starting point? (I plan on testing, but want a basis to start on for dev times)

I know that there are some beseler motors that feature reverse and it seems like most people disable the reverse and manually turn the tank every minute or so because the diameter is too large on the jobo for a complete rotation. Is this correct?

Thanks in advance, Dan

[Ron Marshall]

The development times will be shorter with the Jobo, by about 20%.

I hand roll my 3006 on the $20 Jobo roller base. It is easy to maintain a constant rotation speed.

[John Kasaian]

Look for Grey Wolf Philliip's article on the Large Format Home Page for info on the Unicolor. I use one (actually I've got 3) and its worked out very well for me.

[sanking]

Hello,

I'm new to developing 4x5 negs. As the title states, I'm looking for a cheap motorized base solution for my jobo expert 3010 tank. I noticed the two most commonly mentioned bases are the one by beseler and the one by unicolor.

Can anyone tell me their experiences with either (mention specific models please). I am interested to know if there would be a variation in development times, etc with a non jobo base (when compared to a jobo processor).

I think I read somewhere that Jobo recommends a 50rpm speed and reverse after 2 rotations, some of the beselers are around 15rpm I believe. Another thing I read was that a 5 minute presoak (using a jobo machine) will give similar development times to tray development charts. Would this still apply as a starting point? (I plan on testing, but want a basis to start on for dev times)

I know that there are some beseler motors that feature reverse and it seems like most people disable the reverse and manually turn the tank every minute or so because the diameter is too large on the jobo for a complete rotation. Is this correct?

Thanks in advance, Dan

I use both Beseler and Unicolor motor bases. 15pmp sounds about right to me, and I don't believe you need any higher rotation than that. For best results the motor base should have a reversing movement. Also, I would suggest removing the drum from the motor base after the first minute of development, and every two minutes thereafter, and give it a good sideways up and down agitation for about 10-15 seconds. This will minimize the danger of bromide drag from the horizontal action. Jobo has a mechanism that does some up and down movement of the tubes, but you won't get this with the Beseler and Unicolor bases.

Sandy King

[mikebarger]

Another vote for either one.

They're pretty reasonable on ebay.

Mike

[Sanders McNew]

I have three: a "Color by Beseler" base, an Omega "Chromega" base, and a Unicolor "Uniroller" base. Of the three, the Beseler is the best for the 3000-series tanks, with the Omega a close second. The Beseler gets the nod because its rollers are a bit closer together than the Omega's (a better fit for my 3006s) and the rotation speed is a bit slower. My Uniroller is unsuitable for the 3000-series tanks because the size and weight of the tanks taxes the motor and rotation becomes unacceptably slow and uneven. But the Uniroller works fine with my 2500-series Jobo tanks.

Of my three bases, only the Uniroller reverses direction. And yes, it reverses too soon for the 3000-series tanks. But it is easy to disable -- just unscrew the bottom and break the switch.

I disagree with those who say you need to adjust your developing times. Jobo recommends that you not alter your times, but that you do presoak your negatives for 5 minutes before processing. I've followed Jobo's advice and have been happy with the results.

Sanders

[optV]

I have three: a "Color by Beseler" base, an Omega "Chromega" base, and a Unicolor "Uniroller" base. Of the three, the Beseler is the best for the 3000-series tanks, with the Omega a close second. The Beseler gets the nod because its rollers are a bit closer together than the Omega's (a better fit for my 3006s) and the rotation speed is a bit slower. My Uniroller is unsuitable for the 3000-series tanks because the size and weight of the tanks taxes the motor and rotation becomes unacceptably slow and uneven. But the Uniroller works fine with my 2500-series Jobo tanks.

Of my three bases, only the Uniroller reverses direction. And yes, it reverses too soon for the 3000-series tanks. But it is easy to disable -- just unscrew the bottom and break the switch.

I disagree with those who say you need to adjust your developing times. Jobo recommends that you not alter your times, but that you do presoak your negatives for 5 minutes before processing. I've followed Jobo's advice and have been happy with the results.

Sanders

Exactly want I wanted to hear! Thanks to everyone. I'll pick up a used beseler without the reverse. How often do you spin the tank (for reverse rotations)? And how do you introduce chem. to the tank? Thanks -Dan

[Sanders McNew]

How often do you spin the tank (for reverse rotations)? And how do you introduce chem. to the tank? Thanks -Dan

I don't bother -- I just let mine spin on and on in the same direction. It might make a difference in theory to the 2500-series tanks (which hold the 4x5s on spiral reels) but I've done it both ways and haven't seen a difference. Reversing direction cannot possibly matter with the 3000-series tanks, since the developer is spilling into and out of each tube as it rises and falls in the rotation.

As for pouring chemicals, I just stand the tank upright and pour in the developer, then lay it on the roller base and walk away. I know others have devised more elaborate schemes but simple works for me.

Sanders.

[Ed Richards]

> As for pouring chemicals, I just stand the tank upright and pour in the developer, then lay it on the roller base and walk away. I know others have devised more elaborate schemes but simple works for me.

I find it helps to tilt it just a bit so the air can get out when you pour in the chemicals. Before you walk away, make sure that the drum is not walking of the base. I set mine up so the drum hits the bathroom mirror before it falls off.

[Sanders McNew]

I find it helps to tilt it just a bit so the air can get out when you pour in the chemicals. Before you want away, make sure that the drum is not walking of the base. I setmine up so the drum hits the bathroom mirror before it falls off.

Absolutely right on both counts! :-)

[Joseph O'Neil]

I use series 2500 Jobo drums for my 4x5, and i have two bases, one a sima(or simma) rollar, the other a uniroller. I prefer the simaroller, it sets up a gentle sine wave action and I've never had any issues with it at all.

Your 3000 sereis si setup different than the 2500 series which is on reels, so I think to repeat what others have said,t eh uniroller might not be yoru cup of tea. The Sima or simmaroller just might be your ticket.

One last thought - i have, as a back or for developing while travelling, a manual base that i can rotate the tank by hand. Works fine, but does get a bit tedidioous over time

joe

[optV]

Thanks for all the responses. I've purchased a beseler motor for now. I also found a "fancy" $3.00 funnel with flow control, a hose and chemestry measurements, I'll probably build a cheap stand and introduce chemestry while the tank is rolling for more consistant results. If anyone is interested, this is the funnel (http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/B000EH4V0Y.01._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg) I picked it up at walmart.

[MenacingTourist]

I don't bother -- I just let mine spin on and on in the same direction. It might make a difference in theory to the 2500-series tanks (which hold the 4x5s on spiral reels) but I've done it both ways and haven't seen a difference. Reversing direction cannot possibly matter with the 3000-series tanks, since the developer is spilling into and out of each tube as it rises and falls in the rotation.

As for pouring chemicals, I just stand the tank upright and pour in the developer, then lay it on the roller base and walk away. I know others have devised more elaborate schemes but simple works for me.

Sanders.

I develop the exact same way as Sanders. And yet we've never met...

[JoelBelmont]

I use the bessler, and made an ingenious contraption for getting the chems in: but a $3 oil funnel (the kind with the long spout (I think wal-world sells the same kind I have, it is kind of orange). Use some heating device (I think I used a heat gun from model airplane making... could probably use a lighter if you worked slowly so not to melt through... heat the spout about half way up, and bend a 90 degree angle into the funnel spout, so the funnel top is level and the spout goes into the tank. I use a 3010 as well.

Hope that helps.

~Joel Belmont