ERA Film...?

[DanJones]

Saw this film listed on eBay, was wondering if anyone had tried it?...and if so what were the results?

[Donald Qualls]

I haven't used it, but I've seen a number of images posted from it. It appears to be a pretty ordinary ISO 100 B&W film, pretty comparable to Foma 100 -- which isn't at all a bad thing, given the price. It's made in China, of course, so if you're extra socially conscious you should probably just buy FP4+, but if you're like me and trying to preserve your budget and still make some images, it definitely seems worth trying.

[Ash]

I'm waiting for full paypal access to be restored (don't ask) and once I have funds clear then I'll be trying the film.

[Barry Wilkinson]

The seller has stated that, subject to a small minimum order, ULF sizes could be cut.

Interesting?

Barry

[tim atherton]

I plan on trying some soonish

[Aaron van de Sande]

They also make single weight graded paper.

[Shen45]

I have some coming in the next few days to australia. If it isn't toasted in the customs microwave i will BTZS test it in D76 or Rodinal and make the file available to anyone who wants it.

Steve

[kjsphotography]

Rodinal would be nice to see how it works with that developer.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Hi there,

I tried the 4x5 in HC110 D solution and D23 along with Tmax-100. They appear to be identical in all respects. Just ordered 8x10 and will try it in PyroCat MC to see how it works. It does NOT appear to have the UV blocker, this may be interesting for ULF alt. prints.

You asked.

[Songyun]

I bought 500 sheets ERA 4X5 film, got it direct shipped from the manufacture. So far I have been pretty happy with that.
It has a piece of paper between every two sheets, to prevent scractches. Sometimes you might find one or two sheets that might have a few minor scratches, no on the emulsion side.
I use it for pratice purpose. But really didn't find much difference between ERA and FP4+.
Paul, for the UV blocker, Is that something painted on the other side of emulsion, and can be washed like dark green, or dark red sometime? If that is the UV blocker, I am pretty sure it is there. Everytime I develop the film, I wash it first, the water coming out is dark green.
Ash, hehe, Paypal for buyer is fine, for seller Paypal really sux. I had a very bad experience with them.
BTW, I have heard that ERA is hard to load on TOYO film holder. But I never own a Toyo holder, so I can not prove it, but so far with risco, regal, fidilty, it is fine.

[Barry Wilkinson]

I have some coming in the next few days to australia. If it isn't toasted in the customs microwave i will BTZS test it in D76 or Rodinal and make the file available to anyone who wants it.

Steve

Thanks Steve, that would be great information to have.

Barry

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Songyun,

"Paul, for the UV blocker, Is that something painted on the other side of emulsion, and can be washed like dark green, or dark red sometime? If that is the UV blocker, I am pretty sure it is there. Everytime I develop the film, I wash it first, the water coming out is dark green."

No, that would be the anti-halation backing coming off.

Kodak's TMax 100 was the darling of alt. process for very good reasons SO the 'trekkies' at Kodak thought it would be a really fine idea to put a U.V. blocker in the film base itself making TMax 100 useless for alt. processes that need U.V. exposure.

I don't do alt. process so I can not test the effect with ERA PSS 100 BUT if in fact it does NOT have U.V. blocker and can be cut to ULF sizes, they might have themselves a ready-made market for the film. So far it has been literally IDENTICAL to the old TMax 100 for exposure, processing, C.I., grain pattern and density range. Now to try it in PyroCat MC to see how it stains.

[Robert Hughes]

I'm ordering some Era film from the eBay seller, will see what comes of it. I wonder if it's the same as Shanghai film, which has that dark green backing. My experience with the Shanghai film has been pretty good, but the emulsion is very prone to scratching during processing, probably moreso than FP4. Treat it as gently as possible.

[scott_6029]

I have contacted the seller about cutting 7 x 17 ulf. I would like to test it first...but we are trying to work out details and pricing. I am concerned, obviously, about quality as well as accuracy of the cut....

[Barry Wilkinson]

I have contacted the seller about cutting 7 x 17 ulf. I would like to test it first...but we are trying to work out details and pricing. I am concerned, obviously, about quality as well as accuracy of the cut....

Perhaps it would be a good idea to send him a sheet of 7x17 as an example? I would be interested in 5x12 and could also send him a sample. Please keep us updated on your discussions. Thanks.

Barry

[buze]

I tried the ERA and the Shanghai. I use the Shanghai a lot now, but the ERA is for pinhole only, or for tests. The ERA is quite fragile I found, and the base is very thin : it bends even when dry, in the holder too... I also seen imperfection in coating I never seen in Shanghai... Also, at equivalent exposure & processing, I get more density out of the shanghai...

[tim atherton]

I tried the ERA and the Shanghai. I use the Shanghai a lot now, but the ERA is for pinhole only, or for tests. The ERA is quite fragile I found, and the base is very thin : it bends even when dry, in the holder too... I also seen imperfection in coating I never seen in Shanghai... Also, at equivalent exposure & processing, I get more density out of the shanghai...

is there an ebay seller for Shanghai sheet film?

[John Kasaian]

Songyun,


Kodak's TMax 100 was the darling of alt. process for very good reasons SO the 'trekkies' at Kodak thought it would be a really fine idea to put a U.V. blocker in the film base itself making TMax 100 useless for alt. processes that need U.V. exposure.

Does that mean its the darling of dermatologists?:rolleyes:

[Geary Lyons]

Hi All,
I am in negotiations with the factory for the following sizes:
Stock
8.25x12CM (3.25X 4.25)
10.2x12.7CM (4x5)
16.5x21.6CM (6.5x8.5)
24.5x30.5CM (10X12)

Special Order cut to size:
5x7
8X10
7x11
7x17
11X14
12x20


As with all such dealings, timing is an issue. I will have 4x5 samples, hopefully next week. More to follow... I am at Per Volquartz Joshua Tree gathering.
Cheers,
Geary

[Shen45]

My packet of Era 100 arrived yesterday and I ran BTZS tests on it last night.

In D76 it returns just over 80 ISO as its speed which i was very pleased with.

I have just shot a test neg and processed it and the neg looks nice. I hope to print it soon just to see.

If anyone would like the WinPlotter file and the ExpoDev file PM me.

Also I can give you starting points for N, N-1 and N+1 if you are interested.

Steve

[Shen45]

Not an award winner but a test of the ERA 100

[Joe S]

Steve it looks good enough for me, I have already received mine that I ordered, but haven't had a chance to use it yet. Also did you use rotary processing? and was the D76 1+1, stock? what time did you use for developing in D76? Thanks.

[Shen45]

Hi Joe I use BTZS as my system but to give you a starting point you may like to try these times

I don't use the zone system but these figure could be a starting point for you.

If you use BTZS I can send you my WinPlotter data if you like.

D76 1+2 [water] 24c

Tubes - constant rotation. Jobo should be close.

N-2 5:00 minutes @ 64 iso

N-1 6:15 @ 80 iso

N- 8:15 between 80 - 100 iso

N+1 12:15 @ 125 iso

Try one sheet at 8:15 and see how you go.

Steve

[buze]

Well you'd better prewash with the chinese films (Era and shanghai) : the anti-halation is /very/ colorful and if you reuse your dev it will end up royal-blue very quickly!

I prewash them one minute + a quick rince. That way I keep my dev clear.

[Aaron van de Sande]

I am starting to think that these are sensitizing dyes and not necessarily the anti-halation layer. Not that it matters!

[Neil Purling]

At last a honest discussion about the actual film itself! I raised this question on another forum and got a load of Mc Carthyite political rantings and nowt abut the film.
I am curious about the ERA and the Shanghai film. However payment method (PayPal) and shipping to UK might make it the same price as a box of FP4 bought in the UK.
I use R09, the original formula of Rodinal and I will watch this thread with interest.

[Neil Purling]

As the two ebay dealers in ERA and Shanghai 4x5 film both want payment by PayPal (that I cannot do): Anyone in the UK planning on ordering some in the near future?
Send me a Private Message.

[Jan Pedersen]

Fredrik, I have used X-tol with the Era and what i have seen looks promissing. Very nice midtones and fine grain. Have however no experience with tray developement, i use a Jobo 2521 which i flip for the first full minute and then 4 times each minute. X-tol was mixed 1+1 20C and the time i used was 10 minutes, film exposed as 80 In addition i have not prewashed, i use all dev one shot.
Hope that help

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Hi all,

the 8x10 ERA arrived and:

slip sheets between each sheet
it is thin with a pronounced curl to it, makes loading interesting
pre-soak is a good thing, very blue stain to the water
it is soft when wet, tray processing can scratch it, handle with care
(that couldn't be my fault :eek: )
HC110 D solution 12min@70 is a bit much and not the best choice for ERA

Damn, this stuff can build some serious density if you let it, might be a good choice for PT/PD. :D

Now to buy some PVC and caps to try semi-stand with PyroCat MC. Thanks to Sandy King and Photographer Formulary.

[Neil Purling]

Is anyone, here in the UK or in the USA able to obtain ERA or Shanghai 4x5 film?
Then by arrangement add whatever packages I wish to their next order.
It would be safer to ship film to the UK by surface post so then the packages would not be X-rayed by Customs.

[Robert Hughes]

I've been shooting both Shanghai and Era 4x5 sheets in the past month, and prefer the Era. I pre-soak and tray process in D76, 10 minutes at 68-70F and get consistently good results. So far the Shanghai works also but the emulsion is <<very>> sensitive to scratching & lifting off the base, so be gentle and don't rub it when wet. They are both quite fine grain stocks.

Interestingly, I've also been shooting Forte 400 sheets and have been generally disappointed; it's much more touchy about development time & temperature, and I haven't found the right combination yet.

[Gene McCluney]

AFAIK..the only Chinese b/w film available in the USA is Lucky. and only in 35mm, and possibly roll film. I have some in 35mm. It is cheap and cheerful, but it sure does suffer from lack of an anti-haliation coating. The highlights look soft due to the light scatter. While this could be good for portraits, for shooting ruins and architecture type stuff, it just makes it too soft for my tastes. I have gone out and shot Lucky and APX-100 of identical scenes using identical lenses (Leica), in separate cameras, processed the film together in WD2D pyro developer. The Agfa wins by a landslide in getting the tones and sharpness I want. The Lucky looks confused in the highlights. Now if it were available here in 8x10, I could, I think, do some very nice studio portraits with it, and not have to use a soft-focus lens.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Hi all,

ERA 4x5, meter @100, hat-trick for shutter, uncoated antique lens =

homemade PVC tubes and caps
PyroCat MC 1 - 1 - 100 steam distilled water
100ml @ 70*F per sheet
8 min continuous rotation, reversing each minute
water wash stop 1 min
TF-4 fixer 4 min
wash and dry

you are going to LOVE this combo, there is nothing not to like. :D

Thank you Sandy King.

[Joe S]

I must admit that I was not impressed with the quality of this film, I processed 4 sheets of 4x5 film in D76 1+1 at 68F in jobo cpe-2 at 9 min 20 sec and it was not bad, then I processed another 6 sheets of the film in Pyrocat HD 1+1+100 at 68F in cpe-2 for 8 min as well and 3 of the negatives came out with circles about 2mm in diameter in the upper left hand corner, at first I wondered if this was do to a flare but this was obviously do to manufacturing and not developing or handling of the film the edge's of the circle are very sharp but non of the other negatives had this and the Ilford Delta 100 that I took the same images with did not have this as well, the film did not take the staining of the Pyrocat HD very well as compared to the Ilford Delta 100 that I processed of the same images taken at the same time for comparison. I bought 50 sheets of this film to test and unless I hear that the quality has changed I wont be buying anymore of it.

[buze]

I also shoot Shanghai at 400, and had pretty reasonable results. At "100" I think it is at it's best when overexposed a little, like 80; long exposures also really make it pop.
I do not tray-process it, I use a paterson orbital that might be easier on the scratch side. However I did a few re-wash of sheets I had dirtied during alt-print sessions and I didn't see any degradations.

Here's a 30 seconds exposure, f32 probably with the 100mm Ektar Wide Field.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/156/338740262_f1cba69127_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/buze/338740262/)
I got plenty more scans on my Flickr Page (http://www.flickr.com/photos/buze/)

[Joe S]

I know its not the best subject it was for testing but here is what I came up with using the ERA, I am really starting to doubt myself on it now when it comes to the circle in the image and wondering if it is possible for it to be a flare, I really dont know and it keep confusing me. Maybe someone out there can shed some light on it and be able to tell if it is a flare of some sort.
http://www.jandrphoto.com/ERAfilm.jpg

[Gene McCluney]

That little circle in the upper left corner could be a bellows pinhole leak.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Hi all,

ERA really like PyroCat MC but it absolutely LOVES PyroCat MC as semi-stand developement.

ERA @100
PyroCat MC 1-1-200 @70F
agitate for 1.5 min
stand for 15 min
3 inversions
stand for 15 min
water stop
TF-4 fixer
wash and dry

These look fine as is BUT I like a little more density so next time I'll do 3 cycles of standing. Seriously sharp, almost etched look, fine shadow detail, full film speed, nice tonal range, damn decent highlights, should be a fine combo for landscapes. I think I'll use continuious rotation for portraits, semi-stand is too sharp.

Now to play with 'Zebra' and see where that goes.