cyrus
14-Jun-2006, 08:40
(OK, the last time I tried to post this, it was lost in the electronic ether, so here's my second attempt)
I'm new to LF photography -- I have mostly used a medium format Zeiss Ikon from my grandfather's days -- so this was the first trip I had taken with a Super Speed Graphic and tripod. The destination was Iran. Getting there with the camera gear was no problem -- usual hassle with the swabbing etc at the US airport, and the multiple xrays of carryon luggage at Paris CDG airport. I was starting to get concerned about the number of times the film was zapped.
Anyway, no problems taking photographs in Iran using tripods. The only time I ran into a problem was at a skiing resort just north of Tehran called Tochal. The city is surrounded by massive mountains, and despite the stereotype, it snows quite a bit in Iran. Tehran residents regularly go to the mountains to hike during the summers, or ski during the winters. You can catch a lift from northern Tehran and be skiing in a few minutes, though the slopes aren't as challenging there as the professional-grade slopes at the more distant resort at Dizin or Shemshak (2.5-hour drive).
(See Tehran in wintertime at http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/136589.JPG - not my photo btw)
So, with my tripod and SSG on my shoulder, this out-of-shape office worker was huffing and puffing in the high-altitude air as I hiked from the parking lot to the lift station. Stood in line a bit and caught my breath, bought my tickets, and was just about to get on the lift when the operator took one look at my tripod and said "Nope, you have to get permission for that." He referred me to the local security guy, who said that I should have "coordinated" with him before my arrival. He was under the impression that I was a professional photographer, working for some outfit. I had to explain that I wasnt' a professional, etc etc. Same problems as anywhere else. He still insisted that I had to get approval. I said that I wasn't familiar with the law as I reside abroad, so I didn't know I needed approval to photograph public places. He demurred on the legal issue, and instead accused me of "showing off" about living abroad. At that point I decided to take a more conciliatory tack. I said, Look, people abroad all assume that Iran is one large desert dotted with oil wells and camels, Wouldn't it be nice if they saw some images of snowy mountains? He sighed and said that he would be quite happy to allow me to take photographs of the place, but this was his concern: sometimes, young men and women come to the mountains. Sometimes, together. And sometimes, their parents aren't aware that there at the mountains ...together. And he didn't want to be held responsible if their photos ended up on the internet. It was a matter of privacy - and CYA. So he suggested that I write out a formal note, promising not to take photos of people without their consent, and accepting responsibility if I did. I agreed, and I managed to get on the lift. Made it to the tippy-top of the 12,600ft ski slope (nearest extinct volcano - Mt Demavand - is 18,000ft.). Got out, and noticed that everyone was photographing themselves and each other with wild abandon, using the latest digital cameras and cellphones. So, I scouted a location to set up, and started trudging there in my very less-than-adequate shoes. No sooner had I stepped off the flattened snow track than I sunk to my waist in snow, along with my gear. Although I ski, I'm not really a fan of the snow. A kindly elderly (and surprisingly spry) rock climber, dressed like a Swiss banker vacationing in the Alps, yanked me out and tsk-tsked me for risking falling into a crevice. So, with the weather turning bad and my frozen non-gloved hands unable to fiddle with lenses and lightmeters, I decided to go into the chalet and get some tea instead. And no sooner had people seen my camera gear than they started asking me to take their photos using their own cameras. I was surprised at the variety of cameras that were handed to me (Never used a Zorki before) and then the people started getting creative and asking for special ligthing, poses with their boyfriends and girlfriends and relatives etc. as if I was a wedding photographer. I wondered what the security guy would have thought!
http://gallery.photo.net/photo/4107650-lg.jpg
Anyway, I also took a trip to Isfahan - the 17th century capital of the Persia under the Safavid dynasty with its huge central square (former polo grounds) and ancient mosques and bridges - and the island of Kish in the Persian Gulf (looked like a planned community in S. California) and the old and crumbling city of Kashan famous for its rugs and gardens. No problems with photography anywhere there either, with or without a tripod. When asked, people were quite happy to allow me to take their photos. The carpet-sellers in Isfahan immediately spotted me as a "tourist" with my camera, and they have certain way of talking you into their stores, feeding you lots of tea, and making sure that you walk out with a rug under your arms. But the only reaction I had was from the typical on-lookers who wanted to know how many megapixels the camera had etc. I was taking a shot of the portal of the famous King's Mother Mosque (aka Sheikh Lotfullah) when three soldiers who were on leave and just hanging out asked me to take their photos. I told them that I wasn't a professional photographer, and so I wouldn't be able to give them their photos, and they said fine. So I have their portraits here. Haven't had the time to print this or many of the other shots yet. The old Zeiss Ikon seems to have a slow shutter too, so it was a bit over-exposed.
There were plenty of photo processing places and the latest digital tech was for sale all over hte place, but I wasn't able to locate any shops selling 4x5 film though I did meet a fellow with a rather large collection of Zeiss Ikons. One of my experiences in developing countries is that they aren't yet as jaded as some residents of First World nations with technology, so they tend to wonder why anyone would still be using old cameras and they even assume that I must not be able to afford a "good" camera.
So anyway, coming back I carried the film in my pockets to minimize the x-ray zaps at the airports. It didn't help since they pat you down at the airport in Tehran, and so they required me to put the film box through the machine. And the film was zapped again a few more times along the way. Surprisingly, no effect.
Added bonus: A guy in the shoe-makers' section of the Isfahan bazaar repaired (practically re-made) the leather cases for my Rolleflex and Zeiss Ikon for a 5 bucks, and did a fantastic job. Even made a new matching strap. That would have cost a min of $100 in the US. All in all, a decent first trip with a 4x5 - can't wait to go back.
I'm new to LF photography -- I have mostly used a medium format Zeiss Ikon from my grandfather's days -- so this was the first trip I had taken with a Super Speed Graphic and tripod. The destination was Iran. Getting there with the camera gear was no problem -- usual hassle with the swabbing etc at the US airport, and the multiple xrays of carryon luggage at Paris CDG airport. I was starting to get concerned about the number of times the film was zapped.
Anyway, no problems taking photographs in Iran using tripods. The only time I ran into a problem was at a skiing resort just north of Tehran called Tochal. The city is surrounded by massive mountains, and despite the stereotype, it snows quite a bit in Iran. Tehran residents regularly go to the mountains to hike during the summers, or ski during the winters. You can catch a lift from northern Tehran and be skiing in a few minutes, though the slopes aren't as challenging there as the professional-grade slopes at the more distant resort at Dizin or Shemshak (2.5-hour drive).
(See Tehran in wintertime at http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/136589.JPG - not my photo btw)
So, with my tripod and SSG on my shoulder, this out-of-shape office worker was huffing and puffing in the high-altitude air as I hiked from the parking lot to the lift station. Stood in line a bit and caught my breath, bought my tickets, and was just about to get on the lift when the operator took one look at my tripod and said "Nope, you have to get permission for that." He referred me to the local security guy, who said that I should have "coordinated" with him before my arrival. He was under the impression that I was a professional photographer, working for some outfit. I had to explain that I wasnt' a professional, etc etc. Same problems as anywhere else. He still insisted that I had to get approval. I said that I wasn't familiar with the law as I reside abroad, so I didn't know I needed approval to photograph public places. He demurred on the legal issue, and instead accused me of "showing off" about living abroad. At that point I decided to take a more conciliatory tack. I said, Look, people abroad all assume that Iran is one large desert dotted with oil wells and camels, Wouldn't it be nice if they saw some images of snowy mountains? He sighed and said that he would be quite happy to allow me to take photographs of the place, but this was his concern: sometimes, young men and women come to the mountains. Sometimes, together. And sometimes, their parents aren't aware that there at the mountains ...together. And he didn't want to be held responsible if their photos ended up on the internet. It was a matter of privacy - and CYA. So he suggested that I write out a formal note, promising not to take photos of people without their consent, and accepting responsibility if I did. I agreed, and I managed to get on the lift. Made it to the tippy-top of the 12,600ft ski slope (nearest extinct volcano - Mt Demavand - is 18,000ft.). Got out, and noticed that everyone was photographing themselves and each other with wild abandon, using the latest digital cameras and cellphones. So, I scouted a location to set up, and started trudging there in my very less-than-adequate shoes. No sooner had I stepped off the flattened snow track than I sunk to my waist in snow, along with my gear. Although I ski, I'm not really a fan of the snow. A kindly elderly (and surprisingly spry) rock climber, dressed like a Swiss banker vacationing in the Alps, yanked me out and tsk-tsked me for risking falling into a crevice. So, with the weather turning bad and my frozen non-gloved hands unable to fiddle with lenses and lightmeters, I decided to go into the chalet and get some tea instead. And no sooner had people seen my camera gear than they started asking me to take their photos using their own cameras. I was surprised at the variety of cameras that were handed to me (Never used a Zorki before) and then the people started getting creative and asking for special ligthing, poses with their boyfriends and girlfriends and relatives etc. as if I was a wedding photographer. I wondered what the security guy would have thought!
http://gallery.photo.net/photo/4107650-lg.jpg
Anyway, I also took a trip to Isfahan - the 17th century capital of the Persia under the Safavid dynasty with its huge central square (former polo grounds) and ancient mosques and bridges - and the island of Kish in the Persian Gulf (looked like a planned community in S. California) and the old and crumbling city of Kashan famous for its rugs and gardens. No problems with photography anywhere there either, with or without a tripod. When asked, people were quite happy to allow me to take their photos. The carpet-sellers in Isfahan immediately spotted me as a "tourist" with my camera, and they have certain way of talking you into their stores, feeding you lots of tea, and making sure that you walk out with a rug under your arms. But the only reaction I had was from the typical on-lookers who wanted to know how many megapixels the camera had etc. I was taking a shot of the portal of the famous King's Mother Mosque (aka Sheikh Lotfullah) when three soldiers who were on leave and just hanging out asked me to take their photos. I told them that I wasn't a professional photographer, and so I wouldn't be able to give them their photos, and they said fine. So I have their portraits here. Haven't had the time to print this or many of the other shots yet. The old Zeiss Ikon seems to have a slow shutter too, so it was a bit over-exposed.
There were plenty of photo processing places and the latest digital tech was for sale all over hte place, but I wasn't able to locate any shops selling 4x5 film though I did meet a fellow with a rather large collection of Zeiss Ikons. One of my experiences in developing countries is that they aren't yet as jaded as some residents of First World nations with technology, so they tend to wonder why anyone would still be using old cameras and they even assume that I must not be able to afford a "good" camera.
So anyway, coming back I carried the film in my pockets to minimize the x-ray zaps at the airports. It didn't help since they pat you down at the airport in Tehran, and so they required me to put the film box through the machine. And the film was zapped again a few more times along the way. Surprisingly, no effect.
Added bonus: A guy in the shoe-makers' section of the Isfahan bazaar repaired (practically re-made) the leather cases for my Rolleflex and Zeiss Ikon for a 5 bucks, and did a fantastic job. Even made a new matching strap. That would have cost a min of $100 in the US. All in all, a decent first trip with a 4x5 - can't wait to go back.