New custodian of an Elwood 8x10 enlarger

[MTGSeattle]

I have a thread going on another forum site, and I was hesitant to start another without pictures. A couple people have been a huge help already, so thank you very much.

Mine is the cast iron column (almost 70" tall) the base has 5 locations for anchoring.

I did not get any of the original dome/lamphouse parts. Mine came from 2 people already modified for the Aristo 12x12 cold light. if the cold light works fine, this is good for me as I have 79-1/2" of available height in my basement.

Some of you know what the inside of the dome base casting looks like. inside mine there is a piece of 1/4" white acrylic that the previous user placed the cold light onto. I need to see just how much diffusion this creates, as it seems extreme.

My first thought since I cannot just leave old things alone was to get it disassembled and have it powder coated. I abandoned that plan quickly as it would have cost near $1000. I would still like to paint it, but we are into 40-ish degree weather, and that's no good for rattle can work.

So; clean it up, get it secured, and see about using it.

questions;

For the life of me, I can't seem to find appropriate size anti newton glass anywhere except KHB Photgraphix. I did ask a glass shop locally and they shot me an eye watering price because they would have to order a huge sheet and then cut me the small piece. Is this stuff that uncommon or am I being daft in my search? Secondary to this is do I really need it?

Relating to the glass question is the build of the negative carrier. I received a cast aluminum carrier. It has the flocking or "phlox" as Elwood calls it on the inner surfaces which would face the light source. This then leaves the glass and negative sandwich on the bottom and retained by 2 pieces of bent brass. This all seems like it could result in glass to metal contact while inserting and removing the carrier and having the glass very vulnerable to gravity during the same actions. If I am thinking about this upside down, why the heck would the lens side of the negative carrier be flocked?

Column sloppiness; I may simply need to torque the security bolt down better, but the column is sloppy as heck at the pivot point. Does anyone else's exhibit this? Does anyone care to speculate whether or not my column by itself should be plumb? With it simply standing on the floor as-is, it is not plumb (as measured with 4 foot magnetic level stuck to steel plate) I can only guess that the main head casting should be perpendicular and level to a plumb column.

The brass (I think?) long tooth rail for head elevation. The top 2" of the rail are not tightly secured to the steel plate. Is this cause for concern?

My focus bar is bent. It still works, but it bothers me. I'm pretty sure it is brass which would be easy to bend, but I wonder if I should bring it to a metal shop with some jigs to have it done in a more controlled manner than I can rig up?

lastly, i am really curious regarding variations. I've seen different knob and wheel configurations, there's the masking stuff that seems to occur only in the 5x7 and possibly benchtop 8x10. I have a 3/4" diameter hole in the lower section of my column that looks like a rod would have passed through for some reason. The left side has 2 smaller holes as well.

I'll get some pictures in here too since there seem to be quite a few differences in the bits and pieces you other Elwood folks have.

[ic-racer]

Nice to see another Elwood getting restored and used!


Some of you know what the inside of the dome base casting looks like. inside mine there is a piece of 1/4" white acrylic that the previous user placed the cold light onto. I need to see just how much diffusion this creates, as it seems extreme.
The Aristo that came on my enarger was not very even with a 1/8" sheet.


If I am thinking about this upside down, why the heck would the lens side of the negative carrier be flocked?

You don't want bright light shining into the lens.


locally and they shot me an eye watering price because they would have to order a huge sheet and then cut me the small piece. Is this stuff that uncommon or am I being daft in my search? Secondary to this is do I really need it?
Your glass shop may be less expensive than other places. I recently paid like $650 for 4 sheets of 8x10. https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?32852-Durst-L1840-Enlarger-8x10-10x10-Everything-you-wanted-to-know&p=1671119&viewfull=1#post1671119

Actually the Laraneg (Durst negative holder brand) that came with my enlarger originally did not have AN glass and worked just fine. It does have AN glass in it now, however.

[Len Middleton]

This a 5x7 one I had years ago:

255512

For diffusion it had multiple sheets of glass stacked with space in between.

Hope that helps,

Len

[MTGSeattle]

Let me correct 2 things above

First, the column of mine is 60" tall and my ceiling height is just shy of 80." Those numbers should make a bit more sense to anyone scratching their heads.

The negative carrier

If the side with the flocking is inserted into the head facing the lens, that makes much more sense in terms of safe use. I made a template out of cardboard and simply flipping it over resulted in the cardboard falling out every time. Beside which, the brass spring arms intrude into the image plane a lot. There's actually a fair amount of cropping inherent to the negative carrier as-is I'd say about 1/4" along the long axis and 1/8" along the short axis.

I was able to source some regular glass at a local hardware store yesterday; 1 piece of what I think is just regular picture frame glass about 3/32" thick and 1 piece of "double strength." I got them as "scrap" glass for a total of $6. Trying to trim 1/2" off of a sheet of glass is quite the fun experience.
I also found that a medium/fine wet stone works fairly well for edge dressing the glass.

In what is typical for me around the house, I underestimated the thickness of the column bolt eyelets and had to source longer bolts in order to secure it to my floor. The bolt mission did net me some glass so I guess that is a win.

Light.

The Aristo has it's own diffusion panel, and I have that piece of milky acrylic I think together they should work ok, but there is enough info floating around regarding gels and other light limiting materials, that i should have no trouble dialing things back as needed.

New question

There seem to be some thin slots in the head assembly above the negative slot. In pictures of one unit, I have seen what look like metal sheets. Were these sheets a somewhat crude method for masking where the operator would slide a left,right and front sheet in for cropping? The seller I got mine from did include homemade wooden 5x7 and 4x5 carriers. neither has glass however.

[Len Middleton]

I remember there being a filter drawer below the diffusion glass but above the bellows on my 5x7.

Also I think the construction was cast aluminum, rather than cast iron.

Not certain the differences between the different models.

[MTGSeattle]

On mine the column is definitely cast iron. I think the column alone weighs about 110 pounds. I think the bracket and elevation wheel assembly (upper bellows frame and lamp house support arm) are also cast iron. I can verify with a magnet. The base section of the lamp housing (round, 21-1/4" diameter, interior flocking) is definitely aluminum. There are no drawers per-se, just slots. 1 had been taped over by a previous owner 1 had not.

Long workday yesterday, I'll try and get some pictures posted this evening.

[sharktooth]

I've got an 8x10 Elwood too. Like Len Middleton, I'd always assumed it was made of cast aluminum.

I decided to check this with a magnet. The main cast body is not magnetic, so definitely not iron, and almost certainly cast aluminum. There are steel plates used for the focusing track and rise/fall tracks. These are screwed onto the aluminum casting.

110 pounds is very light for the massive size of this enlarger. Just lift up a typical bench vise made of cast iron. These are very heavy, but minuscule in size compared to an Elwood.

[Len Middleton]

In my case, even the baseboard was cast aluminum (or so I assumed).

In the picture, it is mounted on a special fabricated base I got from a friend for a D-series Omega to allow the baseboard to drop. Made a steel plate adaptor to mount the Elwood.

I cannot imagine how massive the 8x10 would be if made of steel.

On one Elwood I owned, it had the full name of the company, and I think it was the Elwood Pattern Company, or something like that.

So making casting moulds for casting aluminum parts would be right in their business capability.

Len

[Chuck Pere]

Here's a picture of my lensboard (8x10) if that's any help.

[MTGSeattle]

@sharktooth. My column is magnetic, and my estimate of 110 pounds is for the column only, I have mine completely disassembled for cleaning.
All other parts seem to be cast Aluminum. Minus some brass gears and phenolic knobs.

Chuck Pere, that looks exactly like mine. Do you have an idea what the square recess with the 1/2" diameter hole is for? Did yours have the 2 pieces of bent brass for glass retention

I hope to get some more work done on mine this weekend.

[Duolab123]

On mine the column is definitely cast iron. I think the column alone weighs about 110 pounds. I think the bracket and elevation wheel assembly (upper bellows frame and lamp house support arm) are also cast iron. I can verify with a magnet. The base section of the lamp housing (round, 21-1/4" diameter, interior flocking) is definitely aluminum. There are no drawers per-se, just slots. 1 had been taped over by a previous owner 1 had not.

Long workday yesterday, I'll try and get some pictures posted this evening.

The openings are for masking blades.

[Duolab123]

I know that the 5x7 enlargers (late) had an above lens filter drawer.

[mikestr]

Knight Optical sells high quality AN glass in various sizes. 8x10" (254x203mm) costs $229. That's your best deal unless you luck out on Ebay. I have several cans of anti-Newton spray made for the scanner market. I've never used it, but instructions say that one sprays it into the air (mask recommended) and passes the film through this "cloud" of minute particles that serve to create the needed separation from the carrier glass. I can send you a can for the cost of postage if you're interested; send me a PM.

Mike

[MTGSeattle]

I appreciate the offer. If the Canada Post strike gets resolved, there's a source up north that I will use.

I got the beast all reassembled today. I really need to quit taking things apart before I attempt to use them. Getting the bellows retention screws re-installed was a mild nightmare.
I'm almost positive a true 8' ceiling room would be just fine for this machine (maybe not with the original lamp house)?
The elevation assist springs effectively limit the head height to 73" for my unit with the Aristo t12 light source.

Here's where things get silly.

I rattled out a quick lens board out of some fancy hdpe stuff called starboard. Our local tap plastics had some 1/2" thick scraps of black with texture for $1.
I got everything setup and placed a negative in and focused onto my easel on the floor.
Height from floor to lens board is 32"
Height from floor to top of light source is just under 55"

This means I am printing on my hands and knees, and that I could have raised the column itself 12"

These numbers are made while using an Apo-Nikkor 240mm f9 as the enlarging lens. I don't think a 300mm lens would help me enough given my ceiling height to warrant the expense.

Also of note, there is quite a bit of stray light from the Aristo unit. I may try and modify a large kitchen mixing bowl as a "cover" of sorts. We shall see.

[Chuck Pere]

My Aristo does seem to leak light out the top vent slots when on. I just put a piece of heavy black felt over the top when doing exposures and remove it when done. Simple and works for me. I also put black felt flaps on each end of the negative carrier inputs to block stray light. Plus, a steering wheel cover around the Aristo base to block light leaks there.

I don't recall any glass hold down pieces that came with my carrier. I've never used anything but the weight of the glass to hold the negative. Not sure what the hole is for. Hanging the carrier on a hook?

I took all the top pieces off and built the Aristo installation up from the part the carrier slides on. Also has a drawer for the 12x12 Ilford filters. Not real pretty but works for me. Couple pictures.

[Duolab123]

I appreciate the offer. If the Canada Post strike gets resolved, there's a source up north that I will use.

I got the beast all reassembled today. I really need to quit taking things apart before I attempt to use them. Getting the bellows retention screws re-installed was a mild nightmare.
I'm almost positive a true 8' ceiling room would be just fine for this machine (maybe not with the original lamp house)?
The elevation assist springs effectively limit the head height to 73" for my unit with the Aristo t12 light source.

Here's where things get silly.

I rattled out a quick lens board out of some fancy hdpe stuff called starboard. Our local tap plastics had some 1/2" thick scraps of black with texture for $1.
I got everything setup and placed a negative in and focused onto my easel on the floor.
Height from floor to lens board is 32"
Height from floor to top of light source is just under 55"

This means I am printing on my hands and knees, and that I could have raised the column itself 12"

These numbers are made while using an Apo-Nikkor 240mm f9 as the enlarging lens. I don't think a 300mm lens would help me enough given my ceiling height to warrant the expense.

Also of note, there is quite a bit of stray light from the Aristo unit. I may try and modify a large kitchen mixing bowl as a "cover" of sorts. We shall see.

People used these things laying horizontal with appropriate wooden support. You have to disconnect 1 (or both) lifting springs.

[Duolab123]

My Aristo does seem to leak light out the top vent slots when on. I just put a piece of heavy black felt over the top when doing exposures and remove it when done. Simple and works for me. I also put black felt flaps on each end of the negative carrier inputs to block stray light. Plus, a steering wheel cover around the Aristo base to block light leaks there.

I don't recall any glass hold down pieces that came with my carrier. I've never used anything but the weight of the glass to hold the negative. Not sure what the hole is for. Hanging the carrier on a hook?

I took all the top pieces off and built the Aristo installation up from the part the carrier slides on. Also has a drawer for the 12x12 Ilford filters. Not real pretty but works for me. Couple pictures.

Looks great

[John Kasaian]

There are picture frames with anti-reflective glass. It may or may not have anti-newton properties, but the price of admission is cheap enough.
The very worse that could happen is you'll end up with an extra 8x10 picture frame.
I don't know anything about the Aristo head but if I ever drag my Elwood out of storage, I may have to get one. Those big light bulbs are getting rare.

[MTGSeattle]

Thanks everyone for the help and guidance.

Chuck Pere, that looks good. I have mine sitting inside the base of the "bowl" if that makes any sense. I would estimate that the lightsource is then 3" above the negative on mine. I think a simple wood frame might make things better.

Also of note, the whole shebang almost fell over while I was at work the other day. I think I installed one of the lead expansion anchors backwards. Always review instructions when using a new fastener type. D'oh!

As I see some of the other enlargers people have set up, I think getting this Elwood mounted on the wall could make sense. If I decide to try and get that done, I will certainly post pictures. It would essentially be a sub frame with the steel elevation plate mounted directly to it and abandon the cast iron column.

John Kasaian I'm not stressing regarding ANR glass. I will try a print or 2 and see if I really need it or not.

Duolab123 I would need to move everything currently in my "darkroom" to make horizontal happen. As things are, I simply moved my film drying cabinet and the Elwood filled that space.