Xenotar 150mm f:2,8 at 1/60s in Copal 3

[L&Scape]

My friend has a barrel Xenotar 150mm f:2.8 and a Copal 3 shutter. He tried to make adapters with 3D printing, but that did not give acceptable results. Together we modeled the Xenotar and the Copal 3 shutter and made adapter rings for front and back lens elements. This is one of the first testing shooting at full aperture f:2,8 and 1/60 sec exposure time with fill in flash.

The lens is super sharp, but the depth of field is extremely shallow. I exposed several sheets of 4X5 FP4+ and my success ratio for critical sharpness was approx 50%. If you do not want to stop down you should make several exposures.

Here is one example of my first session. The crop is approx the size of 35mm frame. (EDIT: the real sharpness is lost in these internet forums compared to enlargements from negative)

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[Daniel Unkefer]

Excellent results! Difficult to use, Yes. Worth it absolutely "jagged" bokeh I happen to like. Great job.

Here's mine, it's part of my Plaubel Makiflex collection, bought it in Makiflex auto iris mount from Igor in Cleveland. I shoot only at F2.8 with this lens, or what's the point? A favorite.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52277923765_cebfe7f36e_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nDC2pc)Makiflex 150 F2.8 Auto Xenotar MINR Mammo (https://flic.kr/p/2nDC2pc) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Foxglove on the back deck. Plaubel Makiflex with 150mm F2.8 Schneider Auto iris Xenotar lens wide open. 4X Neutral density filter added. Kodak MINR Mammography Film 18x24cm, cut down into four 9x12cm's. Microdol-X Legacy Developer 12 minutes at 74F. Aristo #2 RC 8x10 print, Omega DII laser aligned 180mm black Rodagon, Dektol dev 1:2. Handheld which I have been doing with Makiflexes a bit.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51847888046_47033230cb_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mZBYLf)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2mZBYLf) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Later on I found the original Schneider Hood for the 150 Xenotar.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50505677496_5557334e21_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jX1Nk3)Auto Maki no 2 150 2.8 Xenotar HRU 5 (https://flic.kr/p/2jX1Nk3) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 50 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer

[J. Patric Dahlen]

Nice. There is something 1960s-70s about the results that I can't put my finger on.


I shoot only at F2.8 with this lens, or what's the point?

Easier to focus and compose in dim lighting, maybe? I do like shallow DOF but I'm interested in how it performs stopped down.

[L&Scape]

[QUOTE=JEasier to focus and compose in dim lighting, maybe? I do like shallow DOF but I'm interested in how it performs stopped down.[/QUOTE]

Very crisp focusing in BRIGHT as well as DIM LIGHT due to the very shallow dof. The lens is super sharp when stopped down, but it is not any better or worse than other 150mm lenses. The clue with this lens is wide apertures f:2,8... f:4... f:5,6

[Daniel Unkefer]

I never find it easy to focus a 150 Xenotar. It's tricky and somewhat easier with a reflex camera I have found. Sometimes I stack two 4X ND filters, to maintain the F2.8 aperture. If I want to stop down, frankly there are lots of WAY BETTER lenses. Xenar, Symmar, Apo Ronar, etc. immediately come to mind. This is a very subjective observation, some say Xenotar bokeh is UGLY. I happen to like it wide open. :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/5533/30492458690_37e429882a_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NsvPCo)Automatic Makiflex 150 Xenotar (https://flic.kr/p/NsvPCo) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

My first Handheld Makiflex Automatic image! I think a success.
150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open, Foma 200 Legacy Mic-X Replenished.

[J. Patric Dahlen]

I never find it easy to focus a 150 Xenotar. It's tricky and somewhat easier with a reflex camera I have found. Sometimes I stack two 4X ND filters, to maintain the F2.8 aperture. If I want to stop down, frankly there are lots of WAY BETTER lenses. Xenar, Symmar, Apo Ronar, etc. immediately come to mind. This is a very subjective observation, some say Xenotar bokeh is UGLY. I happen to like it wide open. :)

I remember that fish. :) Good point, but not everyone has several lenses to choose from and Xenotars are expensive. The busy out-of-focus rendition is horrible for calm portraits, but great when you want to add stress/fear/movement to the photos. Busy traffic in the city, spooky portrait in a abandoned hospital, a marathon runner... It's good bokeh for that.

I have a 3,5/150 Eurynar I would like to use wide open when I get the light traps in the old plate holders cleaned and reglued.