Selecting Paper

[Two23]

I'm getting a simple enlarger to make 8x10 and maybe 5x7 contacts. I've only had one afternoon experience in a local university's darkroom so far (as "guest artist") and have no real experience yet. I'm reading up on the internet and slowly figuring out what I need, and more importantly what my goals are. At the moment I'm considering printing paper. I've only been using student grade resin coated fiber paper so far. My intention is to make archival prints. I really like the look of fine art prints. I don't see me making big quantities of prints and am aiming for high quality. I also like a warm look. (I've been doing wet plate for the past four years.) Subjects will be a few environmental type portraits but mostly random stuff I find poking around rural areas. (see below.) The paper must not be difficult to work with since I'm inexperienced. I'm am starting with standard silver gelatin prints but hope to learn Van Dyke, platinum, and albumin printing.

I've been reading up on paper and it looks like a high quality cotton rag with warm tone is what I'm after? Is there a website that shows samples of prints made with different papers? That's what I think I need at this point. I've been developing my own film (roll film and sheet up to 8x10) for six years and am "competent" at that. I have on hand HC-110, rapid fixer, and Photographers Formulary TF-5 but am open to other chemicals.
Tin type that I like the look of:

[Alan9940]

Based on what you say you're after, IMO you couldn't go wrong with Ilford Warmtone FB.

[paulbarden]

There aren’t many options for warm tone papers - it’s either Ilford Warmtone, Fomatone Classic (my favorite) or Bergger Warmtone (nearly identical to the Ilford product). These are all fine choices, but for really warm images, the Foma paper is far more likely to satisfy your needs. I find the warmth of the Ilford paper to be far more subtle than I’d like.

[xkaes]

Perhaps a better option to "warm" papers is to use a toner. There are a wide variety that you can buy or make yourself. Perhaps the best part is that you can control the amount a "tone" -- and the color of the tone -- a little or a lot. You can't do that with a "warm" paper.

Another thing to consider is that people cannot tell the difference between a print that is fiber-based or resin-coated by looking at it.

I'll add that you really don't need an enlarger to make contact prints. All you need is an adjustable light source. If you already have an enlarger, you are all set.

[Oren Grad]

I've been reading up on paper and it looks like a high quality cotton rag with warm tone is what I'm after?

If you truly want a pure cotton rag paper, AFAIK there is only one - Ilford Multigrade Art 300. But it has a very distinctive look and more demanding handling characteristics.

[GuillaumeZuili]

Fomatone classic is my favorite as well and it responds very well with toning.
Ilford Art 300 for the rag paper is the option but you can also use any rag paper and coat with liquid emulsion (Adox Polywarmtone).

[Two23]

Perhaps a better option to "warm" papers is to use a toner. There are a wide variety that you can buy or make yourself. Perhaps the best part is that you can control the amount a "tone" -- and the color of the tone -- a little or a lot. You can't do that with a "warm" paper.

Another thing to consider is that people cannot tell the difference between a print that is fiber-based or resin-coated by looking at it.

I'll add that you really don't need an enlarger to make contact prints. All you need is an adjustable light source. If you already have an enlarger, you are all set.


I've just started reading a little on toner--something I've never worked with before. I do want to try selenium at some point. Will have to do more reading and chat with the instructor. I think to begin with I'll use a box or two of RC paper since it sounds easier to work with. In the long run I'm wanting archivability. As for the enlarger, it's free and I'm wanting a more controllable light source. Eventually I may well replace it with something bigger, at least a Beseler 23 that can enlarge my Rolleiflex and 6x9 negs. I really like 11x14 format but then remembered to do contacts of that I'd need an 11x14 camera! A 4x5 neg should look just fine at less than a quarter of the cost. Thanks.

[Pieter]

Ilford Art is not technically warmtone, but the base paper is not bright white and if you selenium-tone the prints they will have a nice overall warmth and velvety blacks. The paper is watercolor paper and has a bit of tooth that breaks up detail a little, but for me the overall look is quite pleasing, especially for portrait, figure and still life work.

[nolindan]

I would advise sticking with RC until you can get prints you like. Note that RC paper is available in warm-tone.

When starting out most of the prints you make will go in the trash. Not using expensive paper is a matter of economy. You should not feel constrained from experimentation. Get all the dodging and burning down pat. Experiment with toning. Try 'Lith' development.

After everything is all copacetic with the RC print then print the image on DW or 'Art' fibre based paper.

[xkaes]

I really like 11x14 format but then remembered to do contacts of that I'd need an 11x14 camera! A 4x5 neg should look just fine at less than a quarter of the cost. Thanks.

Don't forget, less than 1/4 the size & weight & PITA, as well.

As to selenium toner, it is mainly used because a weak solution simply darkens the blacks. A stronger toning will produce a purplish tone -- great if that is what you want.

For brown tones there many to select from. Some give a sepia tone, some coppery, some reddish-brown, and others just plain brown. And you can combine toners for interesting results. Or tone the sky bluish, and the ground brownish.

A good book is The Toning Book by Tim Rudman.

[Alan9940]

I really like 11x14 format but then remembered to do contacts of that I'd need an 11x14 camera!

If you do experiment with pt/pd printing (I believe you mentioned this as an option), you could create 11x14 digital negs from any smaller format film or digital image file.

[Two23]

I would advise sticking with RC until you can get prints you like. Note that RC paper is available in warm-tone.

When starting out most of the prints you make will go in the trash. Not using expensive paper is a matter of economy. You should not feel constrained from experimentation. Get all the dodging and burning down pat. Experiment with toning. Try 'Lith' development.

After everything is all copacetic with the RC print then print the image on DW or 'Art' fibre based paper.


Yes, that's my plan. I went through a dozen sheets pretty fast last week!

[Dugan]

Yup.
As suggested above...practice, practice, practice.
Mistakes aren't really mistakes, they're lessons in disguise. :)
RC paper is much less costly to practice with....and you can practice toning with it, as well.
Sometimes toners will affect the print surface of RC papers, so be aware of that.

[xkaes]

Sometimes toners will affect the print surface of RC papers, so be aware of that.

Care to expound????

[Dugan]

I had some Kodak Brown Toner affect the glossy surface of Kodak Polycontrast III RC prints, leaving an etched swirly-haze look to the surface. It was not there before the toning step.