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Csholl
15-Feb-2024, 12:18
Hi,

I started developing my first 4x5 negatives, but I notice the slots for my 4x5 tank are scratching the film on the edges. I'm using a RF developing tank. Do the tanks with hangers work better?

246655 FR developing processing tank.246656

jnantz
16-Feb-2024, 05:16
hi csholl
tanks and hangers might be better but bad ones can cause marks on film too ..
that's why I switched to shuffling in a tray but .. that has it's own set of problems ..
good luck with your processing !
John

Offhand35
16-Feb-2024, 06:16
I had an FR tank when i first got back into 4x5 not long ago, but I never used it, and sold it off on ebay. (maybe it was to you...) I eventually went with a 3D printed 4x5 reel from B's (https://www.bounetphoto.com/bounet-designs-analog-shop) in a Patterson tank. It can process up to 6 sheets at a time. (B's also offers a reel for 2x3 sheet film which I also bought.) If I had known about the Stearman Press FP-445 tank that can handle up to 4 sheets of 4x5 at a time I may have gone that route. But I already had the Patterson tank on hand, and I have found the B's reel VERY easy to load.

Tin Can
16-Feb-2024, 06:45
I wonder

Didn’t Pros shoot with wide margins?

To allow for edge effects?

and allow for image shifting

Alan9940
16-Feb-2024, 10:07
Tanks & hangers will certainly work, but you have to process in the dark and results can vary. Many photographers use these successfully, but, personally, after many tries at it I never arrived at an agitation method that worked for me. YMMV, of course. That said, if you're going to process in total darkness you may as well develop in trays.

You may find that your current tank will work fine after experimenting with different agitation styles. I have a Nikkor-style 4x5 stainless steel tank that produced areas of increased density on the negative from the band around the center. However, after wasting a few sheets of film (maybe, not something you wish to do nowadays!) I found an agitation method that resulted in beautifully clean evenly developed negatives. If you want to skip all this effort and stick with a daylight-style tank I'd recommend looking at the SP-445 or SP-645 from Stearman Press. The B's reel mentioned above certainly will work, but, personally, I haven't found it particularly easy to load and it leaves anti-halation dye on the film where it presses against the reel. This can be easily removed with HCA, but it's another step. And, I develop a lot with pyro where HCA is not recommended.

Offhand35
16-Feb-2024, 11:27
It is true about the B's reel leaving some of anti-halation dye on the back of some films, leading to an additional step. It can be pretty annoying, though I now plan for it, particularly with ARISTA or FOMA films. I just save the poured off developer to dip the films into after fixing and washing to remove the anti-halation remnants. This is per B's instruction sheet.

Tin Can
16-Feb-2024, 12:31
my SS Tanks have covers and i can turn on the lights

I am an excitable Old boy

they are hard to find

also heavy to ship

i gots doubles of it all

JIC


2 points if you know my 2 coded message

theAngryMarmot
16-Feb-2024, 13:02
I had an FR tank when i first got back into 4x5 not long ago, but I never used it, and sold it off on ebay. (maybe it was to you...) I eventually went with a 3D printed 4x5 reel from B's (https://www.bounetphoto.com/bounet-designs-analog-shop) in a Patterson tank. It can process up to 6 sheets at a time. (B's also offers a reel for 2x3 sheet film which I also bought.) If I had known about the Stearman Press FP-445 tank that can handle up to 4 sheets of 4x5 at a time I may have gone that route. But I already had the Patterson tank on hand, and I have found the B's reel VERY easy to load.

Eh, I have a Steaman 445 and mine (despite having the newest holders) still has the common issue of negative sticking / touching / etc the holders and leaving oblong "slats" on the negatives. Seems to happen often - so I am going to modify my holders to avoid the issue.

Csholl
16-Feb-2024, 17:20
Yes... I'm thinking about doing trays too. I thought of getting some very small trays and making up an oblong structure with some spare wood, and then wrapping it with a sheet or two. Then cut holes for gloves and develop like that. Hopefully, trays aren't too difficult. I'm hoping the film doesn't scratch too easily doing it like that as long as I'm careful with rubber gloves and have it laid out properly. also, small trays I don't need a lot of developer unlike big tanks. Anyhow, I'll try it. I don't want to go through all that work and have marks on my expensive film.

Ulophot
16-Feb-2024, 18:40
Just a note from a happy Stearman 445 user: They make a 6-sheet model now, too.

Tim Meisburger
16-Feb-2024, 19:08
I have a Stearman and an old Yankee tank, but I usually use a Patterson Orbital. They are hard to find anymore, and for some reason no one has made a knock off, but I think they are the most versatile for a small darkroom, as you can develop 4x5, 5x7 or 8x10, as well as prints, in a very small space with very little chemical. I have the motor base as well, which is a useful upgrade.

Mick Fagan
16-Feb-2024, 19:43
I have the original Kickstarter Stearman Press tank, which is the one with the solid film holders, it has worked perfectly since day one. Which must be somewhere between 6-7 years ago.

To say I'm happy would be an understatement, and this is after wearing out a Jobo rotary processor over a 30 something year period of very heavy use.

Duolab123
16-Feb-2024, 22:39
I use a Jobo. Forever I used 1/2 gallon Kodak hard rubber tanks, with 4x5 hangers, 6 at a time. Back in the day I used replenished HC-110 dilution B. Now I use XTOL on the Jobo. Lots of rubber tanks and stainless around. I did it all in the dark with open tanks, easy, cheap.

jnantz
17-Feb-2024, 10:20
Yes... I'm thinking about doing trays too. I thought of getting some very small trays and making up an oblong structure with some spare wood, and then wrapping it with a sheet or two. Then cut holes for gloves and develop like that. Hopefully, trays aren't too difficult. I'm hoping the film doesn't scratch too easily doing it like that as long as I'm careful with rubber gloves and have it laid out properly. also, small trays I don't need a lot of developer unlike big tanks. Anyhow, I'll try it. I don't want to go through all that work and have marks on my expensive film.

I've never used custom trays or anything like that. I've used the ones you get at the grocery store (they had lids) that were around 5x7, and I use cescolite .. shuffling in a tray is pretty easy. tbig rubber tanks and hangers can't be beat but they take up a lot of space .. if you can find tall rectangular tupperware food saver type containers work great for deep tanks, they are about 6" across and sometimes can be found at dollar stores .. and they have lids ...

Csholl
14-Mar-2024, 13:36
thx

Alan Townsend
16-Mar-2024, 11:22
Hi,

I started developing my first 4x5 negatives, but I notice the slots for my 4x5 tank are scratching the film on the edges. I'm using a RF developing tank. Do the tanks with hangers work better?

246655 FR developing processing tank.246656

I use one of these all the time for 4x5 using fuji hru and they work fine. Scratching of edges can happen when removing sheets from tank. Two solutions to this.

1. Have tank full of water. Very slowly and carefully. pull each sheet out and the same angle as the rounded slots have on the end where you are removing the film. This works pretty well, but I prefer method #2.

2. After finishing washing film, drain tank, remove top, and lay down on it's side with the pieces that have the film slots on the top and bottom. Place a paper towel on work surface. Carefully pull out both film slotted pieces along with the films at the same time very slowly, and place them all on the paper towel. Gently grasp the upper plastic piece with both hands and remove vertically and evenly. The films are now standing upright being held by the plastic piece at the bottom. One by one remove the sheets by lifting evenly. This method works 100% and is very easy after some practice. So, we are removing the films from the slots at right angles to the slots instead of pulling them their entire lengths in the slots.

Have fun,

Alan Townsend