I need some advice on choosing my first two large format lenses.

[Andy F]

Hi,

I think I am going to buy an Intrepid 8x10. I need some advice on choosing my first two large format lenses. Someone in this forum suggested a 12-inch Ektar. That looks like good advice but how do I know that the shutter works and if I am getting it at a good price. Also, what are some other lenses I should look at. I am looking for a wide angle lens and a normal lens. My goal is to shoot people in the landscape. Kind of like Paul Strand or Walker Evans. Also, any advice on what I should be avoiding with large formate lenses. How do I know that the shutter wont fail.

-Andrew

[Ulophot]

Hi, Andy. I don't shoot 8x10, so l bow to those who do. However, the 12" (300mm) length is the normal for 8x10. For the wide-angle, it really depends on your vision. Before jumping too quickly on advice, why not look through some of the Adams books to get an idea of what sort of focal lengths he used for his landscapes? Clyde Butcher's work is favored by many (not generally my taste, and he frequently uses a very wide angle. Doremus on the forum here may chime in; yo can see work on his site. Anyway, you get the idea.

As for shutters, how do you know it won't fail? You don't know, but you can take one of two general paths, in my view. You can save money at first by buying on low price without knowledge of the seller, or you can pay more from a reliable seller who can tell you when the shutter was last serviced and perhaps whether it was just a CLA or needed more attention. In either case, you may wish to ensure that it can be returned if something's wrong. for the slow speeds, you may be able to time them reasonably closely without special equipment, and you can also make relatively inexpensive tests for accuracy (checking for the metered low values) with strips of film in your film holder. Consistency inconsistency of the same shutter speed is a marker. I would build into your costs that of a CLA.

Others can offer more about specific shutters, such as the Alphax, Compurs, and others beside the Copals, and who may repairs them these days. As you know, none are manufactured any longer, and at some point, you might need to have a part made, which will probably be pricey. but if you're going to shoot 8x10, you're already in pricey territory; it's all relative and besides, a shutter is a long-term investment.

[Steven Ferson]

Hello,

I had the same question in december.

https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?175372-Recommended-lens-for-Chamonix-8x10-for-portrait-landscape

Check the weigth of the lenses you consider.

I ended up with a fuji 250 and a fuji 360. I prefered fuji over Rodenstock, mainly because of weight saving. If a rodenstock 300 would have been for sale at a reasonable price, i might have got it as a one lens option.

https://www.largeformatphotography.info/lenses/LF8x10in.html

Good luck
Steven

[Neal Chaves]

I worked for a long time with just two 8X10 lenses, a 250mm f6.7 Fujinon W in Copal and a 355mm f9 Schneider G-Claron, and made many prints enlarging back through both of them.

[Vaughan]

Whatever lens you use for 4x5, double the focal length for 8x10 to give the same angle of view. A 300mm lens is the equivalent of 150mm on 4x5, a 180mm lens the equivalent of 90mm, a 120mm the equivalent of 60mm.

You will notice that lenses shorter than 210mm that cover 8x10 are usually expensive. The single-coated writing-on-the-front Fujinon W 180mm, 210mm and 250mm lenses all cover 8x10 with modest movement (except the 180mm which only just covers) and are relatively inexpensive. Don't let the lack of multi-coating deter you, they are excellent.

The shortest readily available lens that covers 8x10 is the Nikkor SW 120mm f8 which allows several millimetres of movement, however it's relatively cheap because it's popular for 4x5. Check first whether the Intrepid bellows can compress enough to use it, and whether the front bed will be in the frame at infinity because the lens is really, really wide. The Nikkor SW 150mm f8 lens is probably the gold standard for 8x10 wide angle with huge coverage and movements, but a used lens is 4 to 5 times the cost of a new Intrepid 8x10 camera.

This is why the older Fujinon 210mm and 250mm are popular wide lenses on 8x10: they are unfashionable and cheap.

If deciding between a 300mm or a 360mm, it's worth nothing that Avedon used a 360mm for his Midwest series of portraits.

Lastly and contrary to all logic with 8x10 the SLOWER versions of lenses are MORE expensive than faster versions because they are smaller, lighter and typically in a No 1 shutter not a No 3: example, Fujinon W 360mm f5.6 in Copal 3 compared to Fujinon A 360mm f10 in Copal 1.

[John Kasaian]

I'll suggest starting with a single lens, anywhere between 360mm and 240mm. These are pretty normal focal lengths for an 8x10.
Shoot with them for a year or ten months or so and it'll tell you if your next lens, if you find that you need one, should be longer or wider.

[Mark Sawyer]

I agree with John, buy one lens to start. Everyone should have a "normal" lens, so start with 300mm, then see whether it seems too long or short for your needs.

If you want a second lens right away, I'd look for an Ilex Acuton f4.8 215mm (8.5in). It's a single-coated Plasmat that covers 8x10, and converts to a 14-inch, so you can try that focal length too. Stop it down a ways for maximum sharpness in the landscape, but a little softness won't hurt for portrait work.

[Andy F]

Hi,

Thanks again everyone for the input. This is really helping me narrow down what I think I need to do. Ideally I would like to travel with at least two lenses. What Vaughan said about the Nikkor SW 120mm f8 is really interesting. It is a wide angle lens but it is not that expensive. That is really helpful.

The photographers I know keep telling me to read Ansel Adams or multiply my current lens by 6 (i.e. 50mm is 300mm) but the real issue I am having is about how to shop for a lens. Books just give me hypothetical data. A lens can't be just tried on. I have to buy something from ebay without seeing or using it. That is why I like this forum. People will come up with very specific and well grounded advice.

From what people on this forum have told me I think my best choices so far are as follows:

12" Kodak Commercial Ektar 12 in Lens (305mm) US $550.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115822431296?hash=item1af78e0c40:g:xuEAAOSwixRkeh0L&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwJpMaEIX489LtNqpyU7s6bg6a%2FDt8i4f5y%2Bdth2%2FKwX9ota1vVUcpq%2FuQCHn35i2P53%2BOcCA6hA44Pi%2FA7lXN3fCYsDmYs1xpgIlodmT9%2Fb%2BLO0CFnubb4sZ7grmuId0EXwF82sSTdHbRcSP%2BXKHRTEne2Wl4as9pjLHM7zx8Ztf1oL1mp6%2FdvxOEIM3YvFWhwJXK8UgLeKptR1mKRt8BBB7wy11ze9KbWZarm%2BFo5f0iOB5j23ZYCEsD0HSOppCPA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Ss9dWmYw

Nikon Nikkor SW 120mm f/8 S Large Format Toyo Copal 0 At $459.99
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186238847903?hash=item2b5cb34b9f:g:1ZcAAOSwtA9kjVkT&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4KeGaliSNQEdrPxbIR2q4uLci%2BpGym2zktVchC3omloQb%2F%2BMqqvYBLlazgOT7oYvYBaAyhUxSSSNuM%2Fyrac5WDXMsTYhdB7rw6ZXVt54sZ4Sk8bcu3kVTvGbgnn4JZ1vOSAk190%2BIdWRHhv%2BmBhzpE2HtHux71rDoxAfpOYl1MioFlzJB9T2%2FD%2FTY%2FOfcGTp9SWn%2BystPdVCh16Dcf0vCgJQ%2B1Q5%2FY%2Bd3bHaEl18n1ux8Fum4YkXXJlvZc59Zi6c5EH%2BVPE3dANatUUOOpv83PRzRux7ijVmsSa60K7hfQrd%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR87a_NimYw

I typed "360mm 8x10 lens" into ebay and got the following result:
Schneider Symmar-S 360mm f6.8 Sinar Select Multicoated Lens For 8x10 for $575.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/156013668471?hash=item245323a877:g:hGMAAOSwlLdlqII0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4BQx2RpmpkJw6B40iCt7ogdyU48H%2BkJsyHZbLZlTB%2BbennX6KqeEctoWtIzDkCxsM4%2Bw8HnfJ%2FlqhULCQa7TdLfDhdvxJ7Y68V5BrlW1EvI3u8VIdkAVX47%2FSoGWN1tTN0DfKYDktMDhzQ0AEopnOaIRX1CjI1CGlFrlDrofDrSkQP9F9NrPOJf4m0QvBlctle7Jlw%2F9fF5GSi8kphzwYjikxByWsUt6dEzKyTuHZZ9M%2FMGz%2BDKdDGVOIYeyI792BsJCkk70muNjgfh4K0bnTVmT46GSCJcyTwMT2kZDQB1V%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8TbuNWmYw

Fujinon W 250mm f/6.3 Large Format Lens copal for $199
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186257847614?hash=item2b5dd5353e:g:ugAAAOSwzlRlqIUZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PLjaw99NZ6Vpt4BBCu%2F1vbUXUhjDC9jbLZVTHifbgYFTdYOU2aS5UyQ7TgEuKWKNxlrWk5zvrrTJX%2FgocnxhZLUkTE4irmCYQQKKX0H2kGRx3Bb78T8edGIj5CbKT8mmtI%2FqkDhnoqbF5Nim3At%2F4jl%2FD9P0FNwy7xFIJvMtZ2cRjsBt9vYzug78eepANmSUDcWYqbMYfq%2BNAw2Z4Uso0XFsll8I72l7zx9GoecRMyO5wa4%2FbyH6ox668Pj456Fz%2BOU4K7Tm0DHXhlASnW9XLP%2BgxtLV7okyssIHMywx%2B%2FZ%7Ctkp%3ABFBMipnQ2KZj

Let me know what you guys think. Do the prices look ok. I need to figure out if the wide angle will work with the Intrepid 8x10. Thanks for making specific suggestions about specific lenses.

[Vaughan]

The Nikkor SW 120mm is really, really, really short, the equivalent of 18mm on full-frame 35mm. It barely covers 8x10 and you'll probably end up with the front bed of the Intrepid occupying most of the bottom of the image. The Nikkor SW 150mm is a more useful wide lens for 8x10 (with a FFE 23mm and quite a lot of coverage) but is 4 to 5 time the cost of the camera. Intrepid themselves specify the range of lenses to be 180mm to 480mm which excludes short lenses like the 150mm probably because the front bed will appear in the image.

IMHO if you're set on two lenses then get a single-coated writing-on-the-front Fujinon W 210mm f5.6 (32mm FFE and about 25mm of movement) ideally in the Copal shutter – it has slightly larger image circle than the Seiko shutter version – and a plasmat 300mm f5.6 of whatever brand you prefer.

That Fujinon W 250mm f6.3 lens on eBay with 312mm image circle (barely covers 8x10) is NOT the one you want, it's the older writing-on-the-front single-coated Fujinon W 250mm f6.7 with 398mm image circle you need. If you get a 250mm then consider a plasmat 360mm instead of a 300mm.

Note that wide angle is HARD on 8x10, short lenses that cover are expensive, big and heavy, and there aren't that many to choose from. The Nikkor SW 150mm, Schneider Super-Symmar Aspheric XL 150mm f5.6 and Super Angulon 165mm f8 are about the only modern-ish choices less than 210mm (somebody will recommend an Artar or Ektar or something else I'm sure) and NONE of those are cheap (most will be more significantly more expensive than the camera) which is why the writing-on-the-front single-coated Fujinon W 210mm f5.6 and 250mm f6.7 keep getting recommended for budget wide lenses for 8x10.

[jnantz]

Hi,

I think I am going to buy an Intrepid 8x10. I need some advice on choosing my first two large format lenses. Someone in this forum suggested a 12-inch Ektar. That looks like good advice but how do I know that the shutter works and if I am getting it at a good price. Also, what are some other lenses I should look at. I am looking for a wide angle lens and a normal lens. My goal is to shoot people in the landscape. Kind of like Paul Strand or Walker Evans. Also, any advice on what I should be avoiding with large formate lenses. How do I know that the shutter wont fail.

-Andrew

Hi Andrew

sometimes the older Schneider convertibles, turner reich or wollensak triple convertible are sleepers and worth their weight in gold (being several lenses in one ). the downside is you might be like some people who don't like the optical quality of a converted lens, sometimes they have focus shift, and when you convert them you lose FStops. regarding shutter failures, .. you don't :) .. add in a CLA to your purchase price and ship the lens to your camera lens mechanic to be cleaned adjusted and lubricated. if the shutters aren't able to be put back to factory specs, the tech can tell you what the speeds are. some repair people have lathes or people they work with have them, so they might be able to replace parts if need be. I got my symmar 210/370 through KEH (chrome barrel so it's 50-60 years old ) and the wolly triple through Igors ( thanks John K! for the tip! ) it's in a betax shutter and is built like a tank. . I've yearned a turner reich triple but haven't been so lucky to get one ..

good luck with your lens-hunting!

[Tin Can]

Find KUMAR in FS

He is a very good seller, lives in JAPANV
I know he sells VGC

[Alan Klein]

Hi,

Thanks again everyone for the input. This is really helping me narrow down what I think I need to do. Ideally I would like to travel with at least two lenses. What Vaughan said about the Nikkor SW 120mm f8 is really interesting. It is a wide angle lens but it is not that expensive. That is really helpful.

The photographers I know keep telling me to read Ansel Adams or multiply my current lens by 6 (i.e. 50mm is 300mm) but the real issue I am having is about how to shop for a lens. Books just give me hypothetical data. A lens can't be just tried on. I have to buy something from ebay without seeing or using it. That is why I like this forum. People will come up with very specific and well grounded advice.

From what people on this forum have told me I think my best choices so far are as follows:

12" Kodak Commercial Ektar 12 in Lens (305mm) US $550.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115822431296?hash=item1af78e0c40:g:xuEAAOSwixRkeh0L&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwJpMaEIX489LtNqpyU7s6bg6a%2FDt8i4f5y%2Bdth2%2FKwX9ota1vVUcpq%2FuQCHn35i2P53%2BOcCA6hA44Pi%2FA7lXN3fCYsDmYs1xpgIlodmT9%2Fb%2BLO0CFnubb4sZ7grmuId0EXwF82sSTdHbRcSP%2BXKHRTEne2Wl4as9pjLHM7zx8Ztf1oL1mp6%2FdvxOEIM3YvFWhwJXK8UgLeKptR1mKRt8BBB7wy11ze9KbWZarm%2BFo5f0iOB5j23ZYCEsD0HSOppCPA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Ss9dWmYw

Nikon Nikkor SW 120mm f/8 S Large Format Toyo Copal 0 At $459.99
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186238847903?hash=item2b5cb34b9f:g:1ZcAAOSwtA9kjVkT&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4KeGaliSNQEdrPxbIR2q4uLci%2BpGym2zktVchC3omloQb%2F%2BMqqvYBLlazgOT7oYvYBaAyhUxSSSNuM%2Fyrac5WDXMsTYhdB7rw6ZXVt54sZ4Sk8bcu3kVTvGbgnn4JZ1vOSAk190%2BIdWRHhv%2BmBhzpE2HtHux71rDoxAfpOYl1MioFlzJB9T2%2FD%2FTY%2FOfcGTp9SWn%2BystPdVCh16Dcf0vCgJQ%2B1Q5%2FY%2Bd3bHaEl18n1ux8Fum4YkXXJlvZc59Zi6c5EH%2BVPE3dANatUUOOpv83PRzRux7ijVmsSa60K7hfQrd%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR87a_NimYw

I typed "360mm 8x10 lens" into ebay and got the following result:
Schneider Symmar-S 360mm f6.8 Sinar Select Multicoated Lens For 8x10 for $575.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/156013668471?hash=item245323a877:g:hGMAAOSwlLdlqII0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4BQx2RpmpkJw6B40iCt7ogdyU48H%2BkJsyHZbLZlTB%2BbennX6KqeEctoWtIzDkCxsM4%2Bw8HnfJ%2FlqhULCQa7TdLfDhdvxJ7Y68V5BrlW1EvI3u8VIdkAVX47%2FSoGWN1tTN0DfKYDktMDhzQ0AEopnOaIRX1CjI1CGlFrlDrofDrSkQP9F9NrPOJf4m0QvBlctle7Jlw%2F9fF5GSi8kphzwYjikxByWsUt6dEzKyTuHZZ9M%2FMGz%2BDKdDGVOIYeyI792BsJCkk70muNjgfh4K0bnTVmT46GSCJcyTwMT2kZDQB1V%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8TbuNWmYw

Fujinon W 250mm f/6.3 Large Format Lens copal for $199
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186257847614?hash=item2b5dd5353e:g:ugAAAOSwzlRlqIUZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PLjaw99NZ6Vpt4BBCu%2F1vbUXUhjDC9jbLZVTHifbgYFTdYOU2aS5UyQ7TgEuKWKNxlrWk5zvrrTJX%2FgocnxhZLUkTE4irmCYQQKKX0H2kGRx3Bb78T8edGIj5CbKT8mmtI%2FqkDhnoqbF5Nim3At%2F4jl%2FD9P0FNwy7xFIJvMtZ2cRjsBt9vYzug78eepANmSUDcWYqbMYfq%2BNAw2Z4Uso0XFsll8I72l7zx9GoecRMyO5wa4%2FbyH6ox668Pj456Fz%2BOU4K7Tm0DHXhlASnW9XLP%2BgxtLV7okyssIHMywx%2B%2FZ%7Ctkp%3ABFBMipnQ2KZj

Let me know what you guys think. Do the prices look ok. I need to figure out if the wide angle will work with the Intrepid 8x10. Thanks for making specific suggestions about specific lenses.

360 and 250 are very close to your 305mm Why bother with them? effectively using 35mm camera, that's comparatively 60mm(360) , 40mm(240) compared to the 50mm(305). I like to get lenses that are roughly 1/2 or 2x from each other.

[paulbarden]

The Nikkor SW 120mm is really, really, really short, the equivalent of 18mm on full-frame 35mm. It barely covers 8x10 and you'll probably end up with the front bed of the Intrepid occupying most of the bottom of the image. The Nikkor SW 150mm is a more useful wide lens for 8x10 (with a FFE 23mm and quite a lot of coverage) but is 4 to 5 time the cost of the camera. Intrepid themselves specify the range of lenses to be 180mm to 480mm which excludes short lenses like the 150mm probably because the front bed will appear in the image.

IMHO if you're set on two lenses then get a single-coated writing-on-the-front Fujinon W 210mm f5.6 (32mm FFE and about 25mm of movement) ideally in the Copal shutter – it has slightly larger image circle than the Seiko shutter version – and a plasmat 300mm f5.6 of whatever brand you prefer.

That Fujinon W 250mm f6.3 lens on eBay with 312mm image circle (barely covers 8x10) is NOT the one you want, it's the older writing-on-the-front single-coated Fujinon W 250mm f6.7 with 398mm image circle you need. If you get a 250mm then consider a plasmat 360mm instead of a 300mm.

Note that wide angle is HARD on 8x10, short lenses that cover are expensive, big and heavy, and there aren't that many to choose from. The Nikkor SW 150mm, Schneider Super-Symmar Aspheric XL 150mm f5.6 and Super Angulon 165mm f8 are about the only modern-ish choices less than 210mm (somebody will recommend an Artar or Ektar or something else I'm sure) and NONE of those are cheap (most will be more significantly more expensive than the camera) which is why the writing-on-the-front single-coated Fujinon W 210mm f5.6 and 250mm f6.7 keep getting recommended for budget wide lenses for 8x10.

As usual, Vaughn has very good information to offer you, Andy. Heed his advice and you'll do well.

That said, a 360mm and a 250mm lens are so minimally different from a standard 300mm/12" as to be barely meaningful. If you think you want a "wide angle" option for broad/vista style landscapes, then 240mm or wider is more appropriate. When I first got my 8x10, it came with the f4.5 Kodak Ektar 12" (NOT the Commercial Ektar, which is f6.3), and so I got a Schneider Symmar-S 240mm for wider views, and I found it's additional angle of view to be a bare minimum. Eventually I added a third lens to the package - a 190mm Kodak Wide Field Ektar (https://flic.kr/p/27aRmgG) - and it was much more suitable for what I wanted. The 240mm Symmar-S rarely gets used these days, as it just sits in the middle space between normal and wide.

Speaking of the Wide Field Ektar..... at 190mm, it works well on the Intrepid without the front standard getting in the way, and without any issues with the standard not being able to move far enough back. It's true that the 190mm Wide Field doesn't allow you any movements (the image circle just covers 8x10), but that hasn't deterred me. I find that movements are rarely needed with such a wide view. And unlike many other wide angle lenses for 8x10, the Wide Field Ektar is positively tiny and lightweight. It is also a superb performer (https://flic.kr/p/25BWtoo). The Wide Field Ektar can be had for under $500, but don't buy the cheapest one you can find! (If you're even considering it) I see there are some as low as $400 on the you-know-what site, but that one has badly scarred glass. Scrutinize carefully any listings for sale that you encounter.

[Andy F]

Yes. Good point.

[Robert Opheim]

Also it depend on what you what to taking images of. when I purchased my first 8x10, I purchased an old 12" Wollensak Velostigmat II lens - for portraits. Latter I purchased a 240mm Nikor W (as a moderate wide angle) for urban and landscape images, along with another 8x10 camera. As stated above a smaller lens is probably better for the camera that you are using. If you are considering the Intrepid camera be sure not to put too heavy a lens on it. I learned the hard way by putting the 12" Velostigmat in a #5 Betax shutter on a old tailboard camera and breaking the front standard of the camera. If you want to take images of architectural subjects you will want to have more lens coverage so you can use some camera movements. Typically I use front rise for taller buildings. But you may not need much camera movements - depending on what you want to make images of.

[Vaughan]

It's true that the 190mm Wide Field doesn't allow you any movements (the image circle just covers 8x10)...

The single-coated Fujinon W 180mm f5.6 lens also just covers 8x10 (the Copal shutter version seems to have ~5mm more circle than the Seiko shutter version). A little bit wider, a lot cheaper, easier to find, and a bit newer too.

[John Kasaian]

FWIW, I have a nice Wollensak yellow dot 159mm that rarely gets used. It takes fine images, I just don't find many 8x10 shots requiring such a wide angle, so a 250mm WF Ektar or 240mm G Claron see most of my WA shots and the Wollensak spends most of it's time on the 5x7.
To my eyes (which are old and tired) wide lens lend themselves to close ups and more intimate landscapes. Longer lens are more useful for capturing sweeping landscapes, the Grand View.
Just sayin'

[xkaes]

The single-coated Fujinon W 180mm f5.6 lens also just covers 8x10 (the Copal shutter version seems to have 5mm more circle than the Seiko shutter version). A little bit wider, a lot cheaper, easier to find, and a bit newer too.

Where did you get information about the Fujinon W 180mm f5.6 being produced with a Seiko shutter? The later NW 180mm f5.6 did have a smaller IC, but I can't find anything about Seiko shutters for these lenses.

[Vaughan]

Where did you get information about the Fujinon W 180mm f5.6 being produced with a Seiko shutter? The later NW 180mm f5.6 did have a smaller IC, but I can't find anything about Seiko shutters for these lenses.

This is for the writing-on-the-front single-coated lenses. The later writing-on-the-barrel multi-coated lenses are all in Copal shutters.

I have two writing-on-the-front single-coated 180mm lenses, one in a Seiko shutter and another in a Copal shutter. Testing (https://youtu.be/vrxdf79QXic) has shown the image circle for the Copal shutter version is about 7mm larger than the Seiko shutter: significant when using it on 8x10.

It appears that all writing-on-the-front single-coated lenses 150mm or shorter are in Seiko 0 shutters (even the wide angles, which makes them impossible to fit into recessed Technika boards). Lenses 180mm and longer marked "W S" are usually in Seiko shutters while those marked "W" are usually in Copal shutters, but Fujinon's naming is not consistent. The later writing-on-the-barrel multi-coated lenses are all in Copal shutters.

Note that newer multi-coated plasmat lenses less than 300mm have image circles smaller than the older single-coated lenses, which is why the single-coated 180mm, 210mm and 250mm lenses are sought after for 8x10, and the 135mm and 150mm lenses are better for 5x7. The plasmat 300mm and 360mm specs for image circle are the same for both, I have a newer 300mm.

[Andy F]

Big thanks to everyone particularly Vaughn for the help. I am trying to process what people are talking about. There is a bit of a learning curve here.

1) What is the plasmat 300mm f5.6? Is it this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325100875606?hash=item4bb185af56:g:CPwAAOSw3gBep-XE&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4C2WBTLkTc%2FZFMHqNCOTTRJZdpAN3Q87iYpmLv%2FBuTlOnBDxJYLL3TpaI2kv3e5i5V8F4FSBHWzEib%2FdD4ealvgCu4DFpuXeHDfNpgbTpXu68tkS2yEhP2Cl3dFC7XlgOy%2F0wz%2FFWxC97D8wgNPL7FJlPQ0djGvf6DhnXJeB%2F2JQqG9oVmq27slJ3gKtV3UtowjQvXjyJfCwKTY%2BkQKeJYU3gndaASJT39oOfa9XWzqmRkhPTYNhEQiaBKTMTkfDmK1cMZxoUpWP2SV2K8OG6j2nCQD4qKuwOSy75qmm1xte%7Ctkp%3ABFBMkNnYvKlj

2) Is this the Fuji Lenses you are all recommending? Note the writing on the front.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/335214533449?hash=item4e0c57db49:g:MIMAAOSwT25lqBUI&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABMKnZCGpC%2FydVjIY%2FrDqU6350N1evrJcB08sajDUIADehRK7uqUmaEjQ4LDl9WTX5Z8%2FyDTkBNZHDKmuZbriTmC%2FqZ%2BwJHRIN5%2FmIc%2Fj%2BmJhNIws%2FSJbpBK1Wt6G6OafmGG2EMnkAINmoEa6hAU0RXf9Icc3dQ7GrFYvRD9PSGTw6Cr0TYzMoh2werjgLltAbuAeyXKwiflVFcxEtanpqXD4i8BwHms2fQrumA0rm2XKFi2JjS1kU%2BhKxFDZdmfQUa2U%2BRn6sQHBfJaTcM6WUvN%2FoMFyJ9tYN%2FCZvr8n77MeNZakgHwWYch7GuHth7FLpI0xivCa6DIgLmHOXoTi8iblv1BkKR7l3RbPZRquz7Oj3iNkoRqy2m8waowIxGNDP1gcw7q5fMtEU867Ize4ZBac%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR67-8rypYw

Also, here are some lenses that I saw recently. I would love to know what people think. The 12 inch Goertz is probably way too expensive. The other two are for about $500. I will try to upload the images if I can figure out how.

- 14 Inch F9 Goertz in Ilex shutter for about $500

- 12 F6.8 Inch Goetz (Gold Dot Dagor?)

- Rodenstock 240mm 5.6 Sironar -N for about $500

[Andy F]

The other thing I keep thinking about is what people are saying about buying a single lens. Maybe i am thinking too much like a 35mm shooter. I am looking at taking pictures of people living and working in the landscape. Most the images will be waist up. At other times it will be just the landscape itself but I really want to shoot people in their environment. Something like August Sanders. Maybe I only need one lens and with 8x10 it is all about bellows draw and that is what I should be thinking about.

[Vaughn]

Big thanks to everyone particularly Vaughn for the help. I am trying to process what people are talking about. There is a bit of a learning curve here...

This is Vaughn, not Vaughan -- we are two different members. I just got back from a month in Japan (with my Rolleicord, not LF).

I do recommend the Fuji W 250/6.7...a fine lens that I carry with my Fuji W 300/5.6. Yes, they are close in their view, but I prefer a close-to-what-I-see/experience for my image construction. Just a personal preference. I also have a Fuji W 360/6.3 that occasionally gets used when I feel strong enough to carry the weight (but use it mostly for the 11x14 as a wide-normal)...and two Red Dot Artars (19"/480mm and 24"/610mm) in barrels that I use rarely.

I have used the 300mm a lot in the past for portraits in the environment, but with the figures much further into the landscape than Andy might be going for. Below is an image (8x10 platinum print) with the boys about as close as I got. I consider the 300mm as being on the wide-side of normal for 8x10 and used it for years before getting a second lens (the 19" RD Artar). Primarily I am in the Redwood forests, but with the Yosemite and deserts also getting visits. The Fuji W 250/6.7 seems to get a lot of use now -- especially with 4x10 images -- and if I were to go back to a one-lens system, I'd probably go with it.

Good luck in your decision!

[arri]

My favorites were the Schneider Angulon 165mm f/6.8 and Symmar 300mm f/5.6 and a 600mm Repro Claron.
All are very good lenses and with low or moderate prices.

I sold a 300mm Symmar, one of the last series, a few weeks ago for 250 Euros to a member of the forum.
In b&w the lens can be use with an angle of view of 80°
The Angulon up to 100°
I often used the Angulon in 8x10" for landscape and achitecture. It really has a much larger image circle than Schneider wrote in the 1950th lists.

Now I´am using only uncoated lenses. It has some advantages.
When an anastigmat lens is stoped down to the working aperture it is nearly impossible to see any differents between the lenses. And yes, this incl. the pre war lenses as well. I´am talking about B&W photography.

[angusparker]

My two cents are here: https://www.angusparkerphoto.com/blog/2016/11/good-lenses-for-an-8x10-view-camera

[Steven Ferson]

The fuji w 250 f6,7 is the one for 8x10. This comes in a copal 1 shutter and fits in a linhof lens, board.

The type of Lens boards is imortant if you want to carry your lenses. Most 8x10 lenses come in a copal 3 shutter. They fit on the larger sinar type board, but barely on a linhof board. The larger sinar boards take a lot of space in the backpack.

My chamonix camera came with a sinar to linhof reduction and i fitted my fuji 250 and 360 on a linhof board. For the 360 a needed to make a plastic spacer between the board and the shutter to have some room for the parts of the shutter to pass along my reduction.

The 360 mm is heavy for my tripod and ball head. Especially when a lot of bellows is needed.

For lighter wooden field camera’s i would prefer lighter glass in copal 1 shutter and i consider my 360 mm fuji @ 1175 g the upper limit.

Steven

[Joshua Dunn]

One lens that is a very good lens and surprisingly affordable is the Nikkor W 240mm. I have bought several of them of the auction site for less than the cost of the shutter. Just recently I saw several going for the mid $300s. Not enough room for any real movements but has very good sharpness and contrast.

-Joshua

[Tin Can]

Really depends on usage

Some want to carry their rig to mountains

I will never do that again

Heavy, big, old, no shutter is what I want

[Mark J]

The 240 Nikkors are really good value really aren't they, but pretty heavy.
However the Fuji 250's make more sense if you're carrying it.
The 250/6.3 isn't so good for 8x10, but it's a really nice long(ish) standard for 5x7" , with movements. They are the poor relation vs. the 6.7's on EBay price too ... I can feel my fingertips itching.