Help Wanted: Camera with wide-angle lens to re-photograph 1920s Postcards

[MKVII]

Using my 6.5x9 Voigtländer Bergheil, I've been re-photographing 1920s postcards in my hometown. I've achieved good results, but unfortunately, many postcards seem to have been shot with a shorter lens than the 10.5cm Heliar on my camera. Because I aim to re-photograph 1920s postcards with equally old equipment, I've been unsuccessfully searching for a 6x9 camera from that era with a wider lens. Unless someone here knows of such a camera, I'll probably have to switch to large format cameras as they do have wide-angle lenses available. Moreover, they offer the advantage of perspective correction, something the photographers of my postcards also seem to have used.

Ideally, I'd like to purchase a camera-lens combination that was popular among postcard photographers in the 1920s. However, that's easier said than done. Even with the names of well-known postcard photographers, I've struggled to trace their equipment. Does anyone here perhaps have a tip?

However, even without a tip, it might be possible to deduce the equipment used a hundred years ago for postcards. Judging from the postcards I have, the photos were taken with a focal length between 40mm and 35mm (35mm equivalent). Based on research in this forum, I believe a Graflex camera with a 127mm lens could be a good candidate? It's a popular professional camera with a wide-angle lens in that range.

Am I on the right track? All advice is welcome!

[Greg]

Pursued a similar project maybe 15 years ago of reshooting postcards made 100 plus years ago. Fortunately I am the Curator for our town's Historical Museum and had access to some of the original glass plates and photo equipment used. Two local photographers back then shot with 5x7 inch glass plates. Final images were just 3 1/2 x 5 1/2 inch crops. Even though most of the WA images were shot with a lens that didn't fully cover the 5x7 glass plates, especially when the rise of the front standard was used, it didn't matter because cropped final images were used.

[Dan Fromm]

OP, are you photographing postcards or scenes shown in postcards? I find it hard to believe that you're copying postcards with a Bergheil.

Are you shooting sheet film or roll film with your Bergheil?

Few 6x9 (in Imperial, 2.25 x 3.25 inches) camera from the 1920s had shorter lenses than normal. And, for that matter, there were few wide angle lenses for 6x9 cameras in those days.

FWIW, the normal lens for 24x36 (that's 35mm still) is 43 mm. The normal lens for 2x3 is 100 mm. The 6x9 lens equivalent to a 35 mm lens on 24x36 is 81 mm. There are many ~ 80 mm lenses in shutter that can be used on, for example, a Century Graphic. Also in barrel that can be used on, for example, a 2x3 Speed Graphic. They're probably harder to find and more expensive than you'd like, but they exist.

About the "vintage" look. That's more a consequence of aging (photographic prints, picture postcards), emulsions used to shoot the original negatives and make prits, and exposure (taking and printing) than of the lenses used.

You mentioned trying a Graflex. Graflex' terminology is very confusing and it got you. Graflex is a company and a series of cameras. Graflex made several ranges of cameras. Graflex SLRs; Graphics, mainly but not all press type; Graphic View, view cameras as the name indicates; Century, more view cameras. To add to the fun, the Century Graphic I mentioned is a plastic-bodied version of the 2x3 Pacemaker Crown Graphic, itself a version of the Pacemaker Speed Graphic without a focal plane shutter. Are you confused yet? You should be. Of interest to your project, there are no wide angle lenses for Graflex SLRs. There are w/a lenses that will work on the others.

To confuse you further, I have a Century Graphic and 2 2x3 Crown Graphics, with 35, 38, 45, 47, 58, 60, 65, 75, 80, 85, 100, ... lenses that work on them. All but the 38, a 38/4.5 Biogon, cover 2x3. Lenses that will do what you want are out there.

[MKVII]

Pursued a similar project maybe 15 years ago of reshooting postcards made 100 plus years ago. Fortunately I am the Curator for our town's Historical Museum and had access to some of the original glass plates and photo equipment used. Two local photographers back then shot with 5x7 inch glass plates. Final images were just 3 1/2 x 5 1/2 inch crops. Even though most of the WA images were shot with a lens that didn't fully cover the 5x7 glass plates, especially when the rise of the front standard was used, it didn't matter because cropped final images were used.

Thanks Greg for this answer. Reshooting antique photos with the same photo equipment is a dream to me. Keeping everything the same except time that has passed between the original and new photograph.

A couple more questions if I may:
- what was the brand and type of the camera you used?
- what was the focal length of the lens of the camera you used?
- was only the rise of the front standard used or other movements too?
- any other tips or information which I shoud take into consideration?

Thanks in advance!

[xkaes]

Depending on your camera -- which I am not familiar with -- to get shorter focal length lenses -- all you need are "close-up filters". I know that sounds odd, but it's true -- really easy, and inexpensive. Here are the details:

http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/close-up.htm

[MKVII]

OP, are you photographing postcards or scenes shown in postcards? I find it hard to believe that you're copying postcards with a Bergheil.

Are you shooting sheet film or roll film with your Bergheil?

Few 6x9 (in Imperial, 2.25 x 3.25 inches) camera from the 1920s had shorter lenses than normal. And, for that matter, there were few wide angle lenses for 6x9 cameras in those days.

FWIW, the normal lens for 24x36 (that's 35mm still) is 43 mm. The normal lens for 2x3 is 100 mm. The 6x9 lens equivalent to a 35 mm lens on 24x36 is 81 mm. There are many ~ 80 mm lenses in shutter that can be used on, for example, a Century Graphic. Also in barrel that can be used on, for example, a 2x3 Speed Graphic. They're probably harder to find and more expensive than you'd like, but they exist.

About the "vintage" look. That's more a consequence of aging (photographic prints, picture postcards), emulsions used to shoot the original negatives and make prits, and exposure (taking and printing) than of the lenses used.

You mentioned trying a Graflex. Graflex' terminology is very confusing and it got you. Graflex is a company and a series of cameras. Graflex made several ranges of cameras. Graflex SLRs; Graphics, mainly but not all press type; Graphic View, view cameras as the name indicates; Century, more view cameras. To add to the fun, the Century Graphic I mentioned is a plastic-bodied version of the 2x3 Pacemaker Crown Graphic, itself a version of the Pacemaker Speed Graphic without a focal plane shutter. Are you confused yet? You should be. Of interest to your project, there are no wide angle lenses for Graflex SLRs. There are w/a lenses that will work on the others.

To confuse you further, I have a Century Graphic and 2 2x3 Crown Graphics, with 35, 38, 45, 47, 58, 60, 65, 75, 80, 85, 100, ... lenses that work on them. All but the 38, a 38/4.5 Biogon, cover 2x3. Lenses that will do what you want are out there.

Thank you Dan! To answer your questions first: I shoot the same scenes as depicted on the postcards from the same angle and in the same season/weather conditions. In many cases I can recreate the exact same image with my Bergheil, except for the postcards which were shot with a wide-angle lens. I use a RADA film back with 120 roll film which works fine for me. With Ilford Ortho Plus I get results with the same look as the 100 year old postcards. If only Voigtländer had made wide-angle lenses for the Bergheil...

You've got a nice collection of lenses! From your answer I get that I have to read up on Graflex and the ranges of cameras they made. I hope there's a model from the 1920s of the view camera type with a nice wide-angle lens of the same era and the possibility of attaching a filmback.

[Greg]

A couple more questions if I may:

- what was the brand and type of the camera you used?
Initially I had planned on using a 5x7 Sinar Norma and shooting black & white negatives, but color digital files and color final images were requested, so I had to switch to shooting Digital.

- what was the focal length of the lens of the camera you used?
Since I had to shoot with a digital camera, I chose the FX format with 24mm, 28mm, 35mm, and 85mm PC lenses.

- was only the rise of the front standard used or other movements too?
Pretty much only rise was used. Almost all the images were shot on a tripod to exactly match the original post cards. Exceptions were the images that had to be shot in the middle of the road... Roads are a lot busier than 100+ years ago.

- any other tips or information which I should take into consideration?
First off my choice would be to shoot black & white film and hand color the prints to match the vintage colored postcards.
Even though shooting FX color could have been done with a hand held camera, I totally chose to use a tripod and compose as I would using a view camera. Also chose not to use the eyepiece finder but the rear LCD monitor/image display.
If shooting the same subjects today I would use the same PC lenses with a FUJIFILM GFX tethered to an iPad.

Good luck and enjoy shooting those "antique photos"

[AuditorOne]

Graflex made 2x3 Graflex and Speed Graphic cameras that easily accommodated different, interchangeable lenses.

[MKVII]

Depending on your camera -- which I am not familiar with -- to get shorter focal length lenses -- all you need are "close-up filters". I know that sounds odd, but it's true -- really easy, and inexpensive. Here are the details:

http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/close-up.htm

Thanks Xkaes! The project calls for authentic lenses so only if I could find a matching close-up filter made a hundred years ago, I can use it.

[Dan Fromm]

Thank you Dan! To answer your questions first: I shoot the same scenes as depicted on the postcards from the same angle and in the same season/weather conditions. In many cases I can recreate the exact same image with my Bergheil, except for the postcards which were shot with a wide-angle lens. I use a RADA film back with 120 roll film which works fine for me. With Ilford Ortho Plus I get results with the same look as the 100 year old postcards. If only Voigtländer had made wide-angle lenses for the Bergheil...

You've got a nice collection of lenses! From your answer I get that I have to read up on Graflex and the ranges of cameras they made. I hope there's a model from the 1920s of the view camera type with a nice wide-angle lens of the same era and the possibility of attaching a filmback.

Thanks for the explanation. There's no good reason except personal preference to use an old camera. Remember that the camera's sole purpose is to keep the light out. The lens forms the image, the shutter times the exposure, the sensitive surface (film, silicon, makes no difference) captures the image.

It seems to me that you want a camera that accepts a 2x3 (6x9 in metric, not 6.5x9, which is a sheet film format) 120 roll holder and interchangeable lenses. I mentioned Graphics because that's what I mainly use. I like mine but the only useful movement they have is front rise, which I use to correct converging verticals and, sometimes, to eliminate the foreground. If you want to go Graphic, Graflex made only 4 2x3 models. Miniature Speed Graphic, Pacemaker Speed Graphic, Pacemaker Crown Graphic and Century Graphic are the official names. The Century and 2x3 Crown are better for w/a lenses than the 2x3 Speeds. People refer to all 4 as mini and baby Graphics. Confusing. I've had them all, wouldn't have a Miniature Speed Graphic again. To learn more about Graflex' products, go to graflex.org and root around. The forum has little traffic these days but questions posted there are usually answered promptly.

You might be better off with a more capable 2x3 camera. Which one makes sense for you depends on where you are and your budget.

There are 2x3 monorail view cameras, I have 2 1/2 Cambo SC1s. There are others. All are a little scarce and generally not cheap. If budget matters a used 4x5 view camera that accepts 2x3 roll holders and can focus shortish lenses, say 65 mm, is probably a better bet.

[Dan Fromm]

Graflex made 2x3 Graflex and Speed Graphic cameras that easily accommodated different, interchangeable lenses.

A1, I don't agree with you about 2x3 Graflex SLRs. They can't use short lenses 'cos there are no retrofocus lenses for them. Their focusing travel is limited. Graphics -- don't forget the Century and Crown -- are much more polyvalent. The shortest focal length that covers 2x3 and will work on a 2x3 Speed is a little under 60 mm. A 35 will work on a Century or Crown. I have one such.

I have a 2x3 RB Ser. B that I used as the basis of a "Baby Bertha". A really long lens camera. The project failed due to vignetting by the mirror box. With lenses ~250 mm and longer Baby was effectively a 6x6 camera.

[Tin Can]

Some olde camera camera with a a few lens adapters, both telephoto and closeup

I did a study of the Calling Cards, Cabinet cards,and i forget the last size some years ago on this forum

I am sure it is not easy to find

[AuditorOne]

A1, I don't agree with you about 2x3 Graflex SLRs. They can't use short lenses 'cos there are no retrofocus lenses for them. Their focusing travel is limited. Graphics -- don't forget the Century and Crown -- are much more polyvalent. The shortest focal length that covers 2x3 and will work on a 2x3 Speed is a little under 60 mm. A 35 will work on a Century or Crown. I have one such.

I have a 2x3 RB Ser. B that I used as the basis of a "Baby Bertha". A really long lens camera. The project failed due to vignetting by the mirror box. With lenses ~250 mm and longer Baby was effectively a 6x6 camera.

Thanks Dan. Never tried wide angle on mine. I do have a 10 inch telephoto that works, and of course the 127mm Ektar, so I thought it might work.

EDIT - Of course that 10 inch telephoto may be for my 2x3 Speed. Can't remember off hand.

[Dan Fromm]

EDIT - Of course that 10 inch telephoto may be for my 2x3 Speed. Can't remember off hand.

It will work. The 10"/5.6 TeleOptar (= TeleRaptar) was the longest standard issue for 2x3 Graphics. FWIW, the longest lens I'm aware of that fits comfortably on a 2x3 Speed (Pacemaker, I never tried it on a Miniature) is the 12"/4 TTH Telephoto as fitted to Vinten F.95, AGI F. 134 and F. 139 aerial cameras. These cameras shoot 6x6, the lens nearly covers 4x5. Needs a small crutch to support it.

[xkaes]

Thanks Xkaes! The project calls for authentic lenses so only if I could find a matching close-up filter made a hundred years ago, I can use it.

Do you have to use authentic film as well?

[Dan Fromm]

Thanks Xkaes! The project calls for authentic lenses so only if I could find a matching close-up filter made a hundred years ago, I can use it.

On the one hand, there's no disputing tastes. On the other, this is silly. There's a law of nature, much disputed by the bokum boyz, who carry on about lenses' signatures, to the effect that in blind tests no one can reliably tell which lens was used to take a picture.

If you want the same view on 6x9 as you'd get on 35 mm still with a 40 mm lens shooting from the same position, use a 100 mm lens. The two see very nearly the same.

More seriously, do you know what equipment etc. was used to shoot the postcards' images you're working from? Also, where are you located?

And are you acquainted with the #3A Folding Pocket Kodaks? These cameras shot 3.5" x 5.5" negatives on glass plates, sheet film or #122 roll film, depending on the version. These could be contact printed on postcard sized paper. In fact EKCo sold paper with postcard markings printed on the back. FPKs were all fixed lens cameras with a variety of lenses in a variety of shutters. I've harvested really nice uncoated f/6.3 Tessars in B&L Compound shutters from them. I mention this because, image circle aside, these lenses shoot as well as newer designs with good coating.

[MKVII]

Do you have to use authentic film as well?

Yes, it sounds terribly puritan and unpractical, but the challenge is to keep all variables constant to visually isolate the effect time had on the specific location.

I was lucky enough to source some expired 120 roll film from Germany which I succesfully exposed and developed. To keep the cost down and keep shooting I've now shifted to Ilford Ortho Plus, an orthocromatic film which is less sensitive to red and green. The photo's on many of the postcards I have, are clearly taken on orthochromatic film. In the meantime I'm still on the look out for batches of film expired 100 years ago.

[MKVII]

On the one hand, there's no disputing tastes. On the other, this is silly. There's a law of nature, much disputed by the bokum boyz, who carry on about lenses' signatures, to the effect that in blind tests no one can reliably tell which lens was used to take a picture.

Indeed, the emphasis on authentic equipment in my project leans more towards a philosophical aspect than a technical one. In practice, I primarily observe the difference between lenses with and without coating and how sharp they render.


If you want the same view on 6x9 as you'd get on 35 mm still with a 40 mm lens shooting from the same position, use a 100 mm lens. The two see very nearly the same.

That's what I was hoping for, but unfortunately, in practice, the 105mm lens of my Voigtländer is still too long to rephotograph many old photo's from the same spot.


More seriously, do you know what equipment etc. was used to shoot the postcards' images you're working from? Also, where are you located?

I live in the Netherlands, and so far, my research into used equipment hasn't yielded anything concrete. The few museums that have postcards in their collection didn't have information about the photographers and their equipment. The same goes for the printing houses that issued the postcards. Even finding negatives has been unsuccessful. In that regard, 100 years ago is quite a long time.


And are you acquainted with the #3A Folding Pocket Kodaks? These cameras shot 3.5" x 5.5" negatives on glass plates, sheet film or #122 roll film, depending on the version. These could be contact printed on postcard sized paper. In fact EKCo sold paper with postcard markings printed on the back. FPKs were all fixed lens cameras with a variety of lenses in a variety of shutters. I've harvested really nice uncoated f/6.3 Tessars in B&L Compound shutters from them. I mention this because, image circle aside, these lenses shoot as well as newer designs with good coating.

Yes, I am definitely familiar with these cameras. In fact, one of the first posts I read on this forum was about repurposing lenses from these cameras for 4x5. However, I understood that these lenses are around 170mm and therefore too long for the angle of view I need.

[Vaughan]

In the meantime I'm still on the look out for batches of film expired 100 years ago.

100 year old film would be made on cellulose nitrate base, which is HIGHLY flammable and would have been disposed of as a hazardous waste many decades ago. It releases nitric acid as it decomposes and can self-combust. When it burns it is extremely difficult to extinguish: it was responsible for many cinema fires back in the day. You do NOT want ANY of this stuff.

The "safety film" base that replaced nitrate in 1930s was cellulose acetate: it's not much better. It's not as flammable, but it decomposes in humidity and heat to release acetic acid which further accelerates the decomposition of acetate film nearby (this is called vinegar syndrome). It can destroy an archive's entire film collection in a matter of years because the vinegar can travel far through the air conditioning system and catalyse the decomposition of other film. Unexposed rolls of this film too would have been disposed of decades ago.



Indeed, the emphasis on authentic equipment in my project leans more towards a philosophical aspect than a technical one.

You may need to do some research on the technical aspects of the film and equipment you want. You may have more luck reproducing the scenes on glass plate, which are being made again today albeit in small volumes, otherwise (though not historically correct) do it on wet plate.

[Tin Can]

I collect and use very old NOS coated glass plates the below are 120 years old and that image is 5X7

and Brand New, at least 2 suppliers

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058616382_5878b286e8_b.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/8735516j1w)A 1880 NOS Glass Plate (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/8735516j1w) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52350512563_f5a9eb9099_c.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/2d806rD85Z)120 year old glass plate (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/2d806rD85Z) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

[Tin Can]

My Hat

Strobes in studio many POPS

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132451848_3bc916903d_n.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/g7s8teu591)Avatar HAT 1890 Glass NEg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/g7s8teu591) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

[jnantz]

Hi OP,

you might look for a Kodak 3A folder and put paper negatives in it, I have a graflex 3A and my grandparent's kodak. 122 film used to be post card format. a 5x7 sheet of paper barely trimmed and the back closed makes an ideal negative, the same exact size as a post card, vintage lens and paper is non-panchromatic so you'll get the look from top to bottom ).
good luck !
John

[Daniel Unkefer]

I have a Plaubel 73mm Orthar WA that fits on my Makina IIIR. I shoot planfilm in 120 all kinds, and J. Lane glass plates. I like Ilford Ortho I cut it down from 5x7 and 4x5 for reloading under red safelight. All of this is 6.5x9cm.

[Dan Fromm]

unfortunately, in practice, the 105mm lens of my Voigtländer is still too long to rephotograph many old photo's from the same spot. I take it that standing farther back isn't possible or won't give the desired effect. If either is the case, you may be stuck with using relatively modern lenses. The ideal would be a zoom lens but I don't think one that does what you want exists.

A question about the picture postcards that give you your subjects. How were they manufactured? Are they photographic prints or did they come off a printing press? If the latter, they're inherently low resolution and there's no need for high resolution lenses.

Henri Gaud, who is one of the gurus on http://www.galerie-photo.info/forumgp/ (forum) and https://www.galerie-photo.com/ (parent site) converted his family's business, a publisher of picture postcards, into a publisher of high-quality picture books. He's an accomplished LF photographer and has an encyclopedic knowledge of LF lenses. I don't know how good his English is, but I think you should approach him for advice. I think his e-mail address is henrigaud55@gmail.com

[xkaes]

Yes, it sounds terribly puritan and unpractical, but the challenge is to keep all variables constant to visually isolate the effect time had on the specific location.

Since you are opposed to using CU lenses, there is another solution with OLD gear.

You'll never know what lens was used to make the post card, and to create the post card -- as perfectly as possible -- you much create the exact same perspective -- and that's easy. You do it without using a lens. Find the exact spot where the picture was taken. What you need to do is find the ONE SPOT where the perspective of all the items in the post card are the same. I'm not talking about the angle-of-view of the lens. I'm talking about distance from the camera to the subject / scene. Find that one spot and take the picture at that spot.

Then all you need to do is use a lens that has an angle of view that captures what's in the post card -- OR MORE. Chances are, since you won't have the exact same lens, the lens you have will capture more than what is in the post card. That's OK. Then crop it in the darkroom -- you'll have the same perspective as the post card, & with an old lens.

[rfesk]

You are using a RADA back on your camera which is 6x9 back for 120 film I presume. If you want a wide angle lens for that back I would research 65 to 80 mm lenses from that period.
Mentioned above is Plaubel 73mm Orthar WA. Their may be some Dagor or equivalent lenses that can be found that will cover 6X9. If they aren't with shutter that presents another problem - use a camera with a focal plane shutter such as a miniature (2/1/4 x 3 1/4) Graflex Speed Graphic or just us the hat trick.

Another alternative would be a 35mm slr with a 35mm perspective control lens. If you are trying to recreate post cards no one would be able to tell what format film was used- be it 120 film, 35mm or 4x5 film. It is all going to be in the film, processing and maybe post processing toning that would make the postcards look look old - if that is what you want..

[rfesk]

KEH has a 90mm Dagor lens in shutter for sale on their website. This is slightly wider than your 105mm lens.

[Tin Can]

You late late to the game

I have NOS unused postcards

Small NOS AZO

None for sale


Please provide image of what you are actually emulating

will you 'age' the cards...

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53412563515_c113b43418_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pnTmgv)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2pnTmgv) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53401922618_a006f7aa46_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pmWP6L)65mm F6.8 Schneider Angulon Compur on Peco Junior (https://flic.kr/p/2pmWP6L) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

If I was going to do this project, I would use either of these two lenses. BTW the 65mm F6.8 is a delight to look through, and SO tiny! I love it on the Peco Jr Mini-Me View Camera. The 65mm takes 30.5mm filters I have discovered, I have a medium yellow 30.5mm comin'. Since these both are F6.8 lenses, I believe these are Dagor derivatives.

[Dan Fromm]

Dan, the VM, which isn't always right, says that the w/a Orthar is a 4/4 double Gauss type.

Since you have one, please count reflections from either cell and tell us what you saw. 4 strong, no weak = double Gauss. 2 strong, 2 weak = dagor type. Weak reflections can be very hard to see.

[Jim Jones]

Fortunately there are plenty of 100-year-old tripods available online for this project. However, finding just the right period clothing to wear on the job might be a problem.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Dan, the VM, which isn't always right, says that the w/a Orthar is a 4/4 double Gauss type.

Since you have one, please count reflections from either cell and tell us what you saw. 4 strong, no weak = double Gauss. 2 strong, 2 weak = dagor type. Weak reflections can be very hard to see.

Hi Dan,
Looks like two strong positives, it's a bit hard to tell for sure. So it's a 4/4 Double Gauss. Interesting.

[Dan Fromm]

Hi Dan,
Looks like two strong positives, it's a bit hard to tell for sure. So it's a 4/4 Double Gauss. Interesting.
Thanks for checking.

Many makers made them. Most recommended wide open for focusing, no wider than f/11 for shooting. And most claimed 100 degrees coverage. The exception is Kodak's WF Ektars, 80 degrees.

[pgk]

FWIW I was commisioned to undertake a similar project some years ago. I shot the same views on a small format digital camera since the original images were relatively small and there was no absolute reason not to shoot them on digital, or so I thought, as they were for an organisation which would display them alonside the originals (also digitised) to illustrate changes. Onr thing I did find was that many postcards showing buildings had been corrected in camera and would have required the use of a shift lens on the smaller format digital. This also suggested to me that the postcards were originally shot on larger format camers potentially placed to enable postcard sized crops.