[Asking for advices] The very first 150 mm lens to buy

[Wanisun]

Hello,

I've decided to start large format photography with a Sinar F2 4x5 (for landscapes, portraits, and objects in various situations). My very first lens will probably be a 150 mm. But I'm looking for advices, on the model and buying tips (I live in Europe).

For now, I have two lenses in mind:

- Schneider Apo-Symmar 150 mm
- Rodenstock Apo Sironar N 150 mm

Here are my questions:
- How to decide between these two?
- Any interesting alternatives?
- Schneideritis "scares" me, is it possible to avoid it?
- Is it relevant to check the serial number of the lens and why exactly?
- What should I be checking for if I buy online, let's say on eBay?

Thank you very much for your help!

[linhofbiker]

Both are good. Don't be afraid of Schneideritis it is only on the barrel and does not effect the image.
I started with a slightly wider 135 Symmar many years ago and still have 24x30 and 8x10 Cibachromes on the wall.
I had one transparency converted to digital (640MB) and had a 30x40 print made about 15 years ago.

[Alan9940]

Either one of those lenses would be fine. IMO, alternatives come down to your budget. I'm sure you could find a Fujinon W 150mm lens cheaper than the two you're considering, and there's the more expensive Rodenstock S series of glass.

Don't worry about Schneideritis. In my experience, it has no affect on image quality and many LF lenses--brands other than Schneider, too--reveal this issue.

I've never checked the serial number of any LF lens I've bought over the years. Honestly, I wouldn't know how.

When buying, you should pay most attention to the glass; cleaning marks, separation, coating issues. You need a working shutter, of course, but these can be serviced.

[ic-racer]

I presume you will be buying used as those lenses are discontinued. Check that the correct front and rear cells are present and the filter rings are not dented. Make sure the glass is clean and free from scratches and fungus. Make sure the shutter has the correct f-stop plate and the speeds are in spec. Make sure the shutter comes with a mounting ring. Ensure the cable release socket is present and not broken

[Ulophot]

Welcome to LF! This is the place to be on the web for any and all things related.

I can't speak to the fine points of lenses; others will. On the home page of this site there's some good info about lenses you may wish to review as well.

As to buying, I would add two things. One, if buying from the auction site or similar, look for very good and complete photos, seller ratings, possibly a reputable dealer, and contact the seller before buying with a question(s) that can be answered by someone who knows what he or she is talking about.

Two, consider the option of waiting until you can buy from someone on this board (you have be a "member" for 30 days first; the classifieds will then appear under the forums list. No guarantees, and there is no rating system, but my experience has been excellent, it's easy to communicate through private messages, and often the equipment offered has been lovingly cared for by its owner and the price is reasonable.

[Tin Can]

Buy the best possible

on eBay

as you will get your money back

I prefer to buy from Japan

[xkaes]

Either one of those lenses would be fine. IMO, alternatives come down to your budget. I'm sure you could find a Fujinon W 150mm lens cheaper than the two you're considering, and there's the more expensive Rodenstock S series of glass.


I agree -- and there are several other comparable, modern lenses such as Nikon, Computar, Caltar, etc. that can save you $$$, if that is a concern:

http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/byfl.htm

First, decide what features you want in the 150mm -- size, weight, filter diameter, shutter, image circle, coating, max f-stop, etc.

[Kevin Crisp]

Both lenses you are considering are excellent. I'll second the advice about making sure the filter threads are not dented or not dented and repaired. Even if a filter fits, if you need to disassemble it to clean off internal haze (it happens, sometimes) getting it apart would be a big problem.

[tundra]

Hello,

I've decided to start large format photography with a Sinar F2 4x5 (for landscapes, portraits, and objects in various situations). My very first lens will probably be a 150 mm. But I'm looking for advices, on the model and buying tips (I live in Europe).

For now, I have two lenses in mind:

- Schneider Apo-Symmar 150 mm
- Rodenstock Apo Sironar N 150 mm

Here are my questions:
- How to decide between these two?
- Any interesting alternatives?
- Schneideritis "scares" me, is it possible to avoid it?
- Is it relevant to check the serial number of the lens and why exactly?
- What should I be checking for if I buy online, let's say on eBay?

Thank you very much for your help!

I own that Schneider APO Symmar. It's superb. Tack sharp and contrasty edge to edge. So long as it is mechanically sound and the price is right, that would be my choice.

For the record I have/do own Rodenstocks and they are also very fine lenses so you cannot wrong either way.

WRT to eBay, here is what I look for:

- Vendor reputation - I (almost) never buy from anyone with a feedback score under 99%
- Number of transactions the vendor has completed - I am reluctant to trust low count vendors
- Location - Even if the vendor is reliable, it's a real pain to return things internationally
- Returns policy
- Price
- Condition

[linhofbiker]

I own that Schneider APO Symmar. It's superb. Tack sharp and contrasty edge to edge. So long as it is mechanically sound and the price is right, that would be my choice.



The last of the Symmar's does appear to be the "best". But sometimes the oldies are remarkably good, For example I once aquired a lens cheaply because it had a brown haze to it. Well it turns out it came from a smokers house and after removing the elements the "haze" completely wiped off.

[Mark Sampson]

It's worth remembering that all these lenses were made for a demanding professional market, and there are very few (if any) poor-quality ones.
Certainly the lenses you mention are among the very best ever made- but almost any 150mm lens made since WWII can provide excellent results. That assumes clean glass and a properly working shutter, of course.

[Alan Klein]

I bought a Schneider APO Symmar 150mm as my first lens too through eBay from Japan from a dealer who had a good reputation. No Schneideritis; I refuse to buy one with it regardless of what others say. At a minimum, it will be harder to resell later and probably for less than ones without it.

Here are Schneider serial number vs dates.
https://ground-glass.net/schneider-lenses-age/

Here are my sample shots with the lens on my Chamonix 4x5 camera.

https://www.flickr.com/search/?sort=date-taken-desc&safe_search=1&tags=150mm&user_id=55760757%40N05&view_all=1

[tundra]

It's worth remembering that all these lenses were made for a demanding professional market, and there are very few (if any) poor-quality ones.
Certainly the lenses you mention are among the very best ever made- but almost any 150mm lens made since WWII can provide excellent results. That assumes clean glass and a properly working shutter, of course.

That's really true Mark. I have a 210mm f/6.8 Caltar-II (which I think is a rebranded Rodenstock Geronar). Hardly the very best of the very best, and it's a superb shooter. Probably my most used 4x5 lens. I also have some ancient 65mm Super Angulons, the f/8 for 2x3 and the f/5.6 for 4x5 and - again - they work really well.

In my view, the most overlooked "normal" lens for 4x5 - with admittedly limited capacity for camera movement - is the 127mm f/ 4.7 Ektar. These lenses were a staple for the 4x5 Speed/Crown Graphics and are widely available for little money. They are superb shooters, as is their longer cousin the 203mm f/7.7 Ektar.

I know I vastly overestimated the need for huge lens coverage when I first started buying lenses decades ago. And, sure, if you're doing complex product tabletop of intricate architectural work, you need it. For the the majority of what I actually shoot, I need coverage for a little rise and a bit of front or back tilt. That's it. Both the Ektars do that quite nicely, thank you.

[tundra]

I bought a Schneider APO Symmar 150mm as my first lens too through eBay from Japan from a dealer who had a good reputation. No Schneideritis; I refuse to buy one with it regardless of what others say. At a minimum, it will be harder to resell later and probably for less than ones without it.

Here are Schneider serial number vs dates.
https://ground-glass.net/schneider-lenses-age/

Here are my sample shots with the lens on my Chamonix 4x5 camera.

https://www.flickr.com/search/?sort=date-taken-desc&safe_search=1&tags=150mm&user_id=55760757%40N05&view_all=1

I have had really uneven results buying from Japan. A lot of what they flog on eBay as "Mint+" is stuff that's been "repaired" by the seller and often not well. I've had several examples of items - expensive items - that looked good but clearly had been inexpertly fiddled with, one to the point of inoperability.

I have also found the Japanese sellers tend - on average - to price goods in the stratosphere.

So, if people want to buy from Japan, I recommend:

- Always read the detailed description carefully. I've seen lenses listed as "Mint+5" that are described to have "some fungus and separation".

- Only do business with sellers willing to take the item back and pay for the costs of return international shipping.

- Only do business with sellers that have very high feedback satisfaction ratings.

[Lachlan 717]

G Claron 150mm in shutter.

Konica Hexanon GRII 150mm in barrel.

Save some $$$ and put it towards film/processing.

Good lens shading will produce better results with a cheaper lens than paying more and not shading. Technique is an underrated component of LF.

[Alan9940]

When considering which is the "best" lens, it's worth considering, too, the final use of your image. If posting on social media, etc, any 150mm lens in acceptable condition would suffice. If you plan to make prints, what size? I doubt anyone could tell the difference between any modern 150mm lens at up to 16x20". If you plan to produce billboards, it would probably be best to consider the most recent choices from the top manufacturers. IMO, sharpness is overrated. Have you ever seen an Ansel Adams enlargement up close? Hardly tact sharp by today's standards. Does it matter? Not to me. ;)

[paulbarden]

When considering which is the "best" lens, it's worth considering, too, the final use of your image. If posting on social media, etc, any 150mm lens in acceptable condition would suffice. If you plan to make prints, what size? I doubt anyone could tell the difference between any modern 150mm lens at up to 16x20". If you plan to produce billboards, it would probably be best to consider the most recent choices from the top manufacturers. IMO, sharpness is overrated. Have you ever seen an Ansel Adams enlargement up close? Hardly tact sharp by today's standards. Does it matter? Not to me. ;)

Excellent advice here. Some of my best lenses ("best" for my usage and desired results) cost me under $150, in shutter. My 6&3/8" Kodak Anastigmat (https://flic.kr/p/2nfrfyg) is one of my absolute favorites for 5x7 work. It cost me $65 in a working shutter. It produces excellent images.

Spending the maximum amount you can will have a greater effect on how you feel about what you're doing, and far less effect on the quality of the work you produce. There is such a thing as too much sharpness - more is not always more.

[Greg]

I once aquired a lens cheaply because it had a brown haze to it. Well it turns out it came from a smokers house and after removing the elements the "haze" completely wiped off.

Once bought (at a bargain price) a 4x5 Sinar Norma with a 210mm lens that survived a studio fire. Camera and lens both were covered with a black "haze". After carefully cleaning both, the camera turned out to be in mint minus condition, and the lens almost like new - glass was scratchless. For my 150mm I chose a FUJI... price was totally a bargain and the lens turned out to be exceptionally sharp.

[Drew Wiley]

I'll personally try to cut you off at the pass. Why a 150? Go even just a little longer, like to a 180, and you'll be able to choose among affordable lenses with significantly bigger images circles.

"Schneideritis" isn't unique to Schneider brand lenses, but can potentially occur with any brand over time. Since it' something only superficial affecting the perimeter edge cement, it rarely has any negative effect on the image itself anyway. It might, however, be a secondary symptom of a very heavily used lens. Flaws between lens elements like fungus are a different story.

Any later plastmat lenses from the "big four" (Schneider, Rodenstock, Fuji, and Nikon) are going to be largely comparable and all excellent. Japanese-made large format lenses have equalled or sometimes even bettered German ones for decades now. So I wouldn't worry much about the distinction between brands per se. The Schneider Symmar S series is older, so you need to be a little more careful with condition issues. These can provide lovely results, but the look is a tiny bit less contrasty and clinically sharp than the later "apo" versions from Germany or equivalent Fuji offerings. The "apo" labeling of general purpose taking lenses is basically a marketing tweak or ploy anyway, and doesn't imply fully the same thing as an "apo" designation for graphics lenses.

No need to overthink all this. It's hard to go wrong with the major brands. Rather, focus on the condition of both the optics and the shutter, along with what best matches your own budget.

As far as Japanese vendors go - I've personally had superb results from Japan, fairly price and very rapidly shipped, so disagree with Tundra's stereotype of them. But his cautionary pointers are certainly valid. You always want to read the fine print in any listing, and double check to see that the description matches the picture. And Mint should not mean scuffs and scratches. But you might hedge your bets by buying from someone trusted on this forum, like Kumar.

[Alan Klein]

I'll personally try to cut you off at the pass. Why a 150? Go even just a little longer, like to a 180, and you'll be able to choose among affordable lenses with significantly bigger images circles.

"Schneideritis" isn't unique to Schneider brand lenses, but can potentially occur with any brand over time. Since it' something only superficial affecting the perimeter edge cement, it rarely has any negative effect on the image itself anyway. It might, however, be a secondary symptom of a very heavily used lens. Flaws between lens elements like fungus are a different story.

Any later plastmat lenses from the "big four" (Schneider, Rodenstock, Fuji, and Nikon) are going to be largely comparable and all excellent. Japanese-made large format lenses have equalled or sometimes even bettered German ones for decades now. So I wouldn't worry much about the distinction between brands per se. The Schneider Symmar S series is older, so you need to be a little more careful with condition issues. These can provide lovely results, but the look is a tiny bit less contrasty and clinically sharp than the later "apo" versions from Germany or equivalent Fuji offerings. The "apo" labeling of general purpose taking lenses is basically a marketing tweak or ploy anyway, and doesn't imply fully the same thing as an "apo" designation for graphics lenses.

No need to overthink all this. It's hard to go wrong with the major brands. Rather, focus on the condition of both the optics and the shutter, along with what best matches your own budget.

As far as Japanese vendors go - I've personally had superb results from Japan, fairly price and very rapidly shipped, so disagree with Tundra's stereotype of them. But his cautionary pointers are certainly valid. You always want to read the fine print in any listing, and double check to see that the description matches the picture. And Mint should not mean scuffs and scratches. But you might hedge your bets by buying from someone trusted on this forum, like Kumar.

Could the Schneideritis add less contrast or additional "fogging" light as light reflects off the Schneideritis whites on the barrel into the lens?

[paulbarden]

“Schneideritis” will have zero impact on your results. Zero.

[Greg]

Could the Schneideritis add less contrast or additional "fogging" light as light reflects off the Schneideritis whites on the barrel into the lens?

Personal experience has been that theoretically Schneideritis will add additional "fogging" as light reflects internally off it, but practically it doesn't effect the projected image. I had a FUJI lens that had severe "Schneideritis" (or would it be Fujiitis?) and was able to borrow another copy of the lens that didn't have it. Shot the same scene with both lenses and measured the densities on both negatives. They were not exactly the same, but so close enough that it really didn't matter in the final print. Trouble is that "Schneideritis" really affects the the value of the lens should you decide to sell it. On the other hand I was able to pick up a lens that had a severe case of Schneideritis at a bargain basement price. I've used the lens for years without problems.

Bob might have some more insight into any effects Schneideritis will or might affect the image that the lens projects.

[xkaes]

Thanks for the reality check. Unfortunately, despite all the evidence in the world, some myths die hard -- or never die. There are still people out there that believe more silver in a paper's emulsion means blacker blacks, etc. Just another photographic ZOMBIE.

[BrianShaw]

With no offense intended to @Greg, I much prefer the explanation of post #21 because the entertainment of “theoretical possibilities” seems to continue the confusion… basically giving life to a possibility that is so unlikely and never observed or measured that they realistically can’t happen.

[paulbarden]

I had a FUJI lens that had severe "Schneideritis" (or would it be Fujiitis?) and was able to borrow another copy of the lens that didn't have it. Shot the same scene with both lenses and measured the densities on both negatives. They were not exactly the same, but so close enough that it really didn't matter in the final print.

There is potential for a tiny loss of contrast if the Schneideritis is really severe - enough to be measurable - but it will have absolutely zero effect on image sharpness and overall quality. If you're worried about "resale value", then it should also be said that it's very likely a lens with Schneideritis has already been priced lower to start with when purchased, so the odds are you're going to get your value back if you sell it. Worrying about Schneideritis is very much "tempest in a teapot" territory, IMO.

PS: Some of those large format Schneider lenses are so sharp and so contrasty that a slight reduction of contrast is likely to work in your favor anyway. I find my 240mm Symmar-S to be brutally contrasty.


With no offense intended to @Greg, I much prefer the explanation of post #21 because the entertainment of “theoretical possibilities” seems to continue the confusion… basically giving life to a possibility that is so unlikely and never observed or measured that they realistically can’t happen.

Exactly. Fuss less and make more photographs.

[Alan Klein]

There is potential for a tiny loss of contrast if the Schneideritis is really severe - enough to be measurable - but it will have absolutely zero effect on image sharpness and overall quality. If you're worried about "resale value", then it should also be said that it's very likely a lens with Schneideritis has already been priced lower to start with when purchased, so the odds are you're going to get your value back if you sell it. Worrying about Schneideritis is very much "tempest in a teapot" territory, IMO.

PS: Some of those large format Schneider lenses are so sharp and so contrasty that a slight reduction of contrast is likely to work in your favor anyway. I find my 240mm Symmar-S to be brutally contrasty.



Exactly. Fuss less and make more photographs.

Paul, Your experience has convinced you. But as someone like myself who is new to LF photography and at the time buying my first lens, a used lens to begin with something I've never done, I insisted on a lens with no Schneideritis. I don't think I was wrong.

By the way. How can you lose contrast yet have absolutely zero effect? That's contradictory.

[BrianShaw]

Alan. If you feel better buying a perfect lens then that’s a good choice for you.

My Schneider 210 progressed from perfect when brand new (1982 or so) to a fairly significant amount of Schneideritis so I know that I have experience with both conditions and can’t tell the difference in negs or prints. No difference at all.

Please don’t confuse the remotely theoretical potential possibility with a real effect. Nobody has presented any real data or controlled study to validate any effect of Schneideritis. It’s all conjecture of an extremely remote potential possibility. There is much more practical evidence that Schneideritis is a non-problem.

I suspect that as you gain experience, and maybe even use a lens with Schneideritis, you’ll understand the situation better.

[paulbarden]

Paul, Your experience has convinced you. But as someone like myself who is new to LF photography and at the time buying my first lens, a used lens to begin with something I've never done, I insisted on a lens with no Schneideritis. I don't think I was wrong.

Not "wrong", but I believe there was no point in insisting on a "perfect" lens. The only meaningful outcome was that you felt better about the purchase, but as for the impact on your photography.....



Please don’t confuse the remotely theoretical potential possibility with a real effect. Nobody has presented any real data or controlled study to validate any effect of Schneideritis. It’s all conjecture of an extremely remote potential possibility. There is much more practical evidence that Schneideritis is a non-problem.

Agreed.

[xkaes]

..the entertainment of “theoretical possibilities” seems to continue the confusion… basically giving life to a possibility that is so unlikely and never observed or measured that they realistically can’t happen.

That's the best summary of the times we are living in that I've read.

[Doremus Scudder]

By the way. How can you lose contrast yet have absolutely zero effect [on sharpness]? That's contradictory.

Flare reduces contrast without affecting the sharpness of the lens. More diffuse non-image-forming light bouncing around caused by the white specks of the Schniederitis will cause more flare (if that is, indeed, a real phenomenon). This would be similar to the effect of flare from an uncoated lens or lots of light bouncing around in the bellows. The main effect is in the shadows, since flare acts essentially the same as flashing.

Doremus

[Alan9940]

Like Brian, I bought most of my LF Schneider lenses way back in the late 70's and early 80's. Over the years, most have developed Schneideritis, but I've never noticed any affect to my prints (I don't measure densities, except when I'm testing film.) If this anomaly does affect contrast, it has never been enough to cause me to bump my VC enlarging head by even 0.1 units. Again, at least as much as I've noticed.

Not to sound snarky, but if you're worried about resell value, buy one with it! ;) Or, buy a beautifully mint condition, absolutely clean, no Schneideritis to be seen copy and bear the brunt of lower resale value, if your lens develops this issue. Not all do, btw. My Schneider 360/6.8, for example, that I bought new in the early 80's is still pristine today.

[Alan Klein]

I paid US$520 ($581 with tax and shipping) for the 150mm Schneider Symmar lens from Japan without Schneideritis when I bought it four years ago when I started LF photography. That's still in the range they seem to be selling now. I replaced the offset Toyo lens board it came with, with a new light-weight Chamonix carbon fiber center hole board to match my new Chamonix 4x5 camera. Some people said that offset didn't matter either but it made me feel better being mounted in the center like my other three lenses. I suppose that's another thing I did wrong.

I appreciate everyone feels Schneideritis doesn't matter from a photographic standpoint. But it made me more comfortable being clean especially because it was a used product to begin with. At least I learned now that should it get Schneideritis, it shouldn't matter. (it's still clean) Thanks.

[Michael R]

This is one of those threads...everyone is correct but it’s an argument anyway.

I’ll just throw in an additional option. As Drew mentioned, the “big four” will all do the same. My first LF lens was a 150mm Nikkor W. At least as good as anything else. I bought it because at the time at least (early 1990s), the Nikon LF lenses were somewhat less expensive to buy new than the German equivalents which were simply beyond my budget. Anyway I never had a better lens (not that I’d be able to see a difference). Good enough for John Sexton...

[Tin Can]

Making shutters

Paramount

[Drew Wiley]

I bought all German and used em quite awhile. But then when the German Mark was high, and the Japanese Yen was low in relation to the US dollar, I sold my German lenses for more than I paid for them, and bought brand new Fuji and Nikon lenses with cash to spare. I needed a new round of equipment tax depreciation anyway, and that made the most sense. But being an even more modern set of lenses, there were secondary advantages too.

The old Schneider lens which suffered the most from Schneideritis had been subjected to long trips in SW desert canyons where the diurnal temp swings could be as much as 70 deg F in a 24 hr period. Repetitive mountain extremes also were a factor in those expansion/contraction stresses on the perimeter lens cement - actually, just on the blackening to the rim itself. Zero negative effect on my shots themselves. No big deal. It's a completely different thing than balsam or shellac failure and separation between lens elements themselves, in the case of antique lenses.

[John Kasaian]

KEH is a good place to go for lens shopping, and I've gotten some very nice lenses off of eBay. Condition is everything.
As others have mentioned, the LF Home Page the light blue banner at the top of this page) has links to reviews and lens data that are well worth consulting.

[sharktooth]

You're obviously not buying a new lens with a warranty, and you don't have the knowledge to answer these simple questions yourself, so the real question to ask is "do I know and trust the seller?".

Anybody can sell anything in any condition. If you're a newby, then admit it, and buy your first lens from someone you can trust to steer you straight.

[xkaes]

One GOOD thing about Schneideritis is that you can get some great glass for a lot less than you would otherwise pay. Of course, it doesn't have to be Schneider lenses. I nabbed my Fujinon SWD 65mm f5.6 with a very mild case of the disease -- for next to nothing.

[tundra]

One GOOD thing about Schneideritis is that you can get some great glass for a lot less than you would otherwise pay. Of course, it doesn't have to be Schneider lenses. I nabbed my Fujinon SWD 65mm f5.6 with a very mild case of the disease -- for next to nothing.

I have Schneiders relatively old and new. The are all terrific lenses. The larger problem is shutter accuracy with age. This can be fixed with a good CLA.

[Alan Klein]

I have Schneiders relatively old and new. The are all terrific lenses. The larger problem is shutter accuracy with age. This can be fixed with a good CLA.

My 150mm Schenieder is 1/3 stop too fast up to 1/30th.

[tundra]

My 150mm Schenieder is 1/3 stop too fast up to 1/30th.

I have tested literally dozens of leaf shutters using a simple digital timer. This isn't a perfect measurement because the speed at the edges of a larger shutter is faster than in the center (the center stays open relatively longer) but it's a good first order approximation.

Based on this, I have found that almost all shutters, even older ones, tend to be OK - say, within 1/2 stop or so - up to around 1/125 unless they are extremely grimy or defective. The speeds above this tend to be slow, particularly with shutter age as the mechanism gets dirty and gums up somewhat with time. A CLA typically fixes this.

[BrianShaw]

My 150mm Schenieder is 1/3 stop too fast up to 1/30th.

Within factory specification. This is a testament to the shutter quality when a shutter is kept serviced.

[jnantz]

Hello,

I've decided to start large format photography with a Sinar F2 4x5 (for landscapes, portraits, and objects in various situations). My very first lens will probably be a 150 mm. But I'm looking for advices, on the model and buying tips (I live in Europe).

For now, I have two lenses in mind:

- Schneider Apo-Symmar 150 mm
- Rodenstock Apo Sironar N 150 mm

Here are my questions:
- How to decide between these two?
- Any interesting alternatives?
- Schneideritis "scares" me, is it possible to avoid it?
- Is it relevant to check the serial number of the lens and why exactly?
- What should I be checking for if I buy online, let's say on eBay?

Thank you very much for your help!

Wanisun
What lens did you end up getting ?
just make sure when you buy the used lens that you put aside some money to get the shutter clean/adjusted/lubricated.

[Drew Wiley]

Almost all Copal shutters are way off at the highest speed (typically 1/500th). It's the commonly used lower speeds you need to pay attention to, and the critical factor isn't the exact speed itself, but the plus/minus consistency of each speed. I cut my teeth on large format fussy chrome film, and half a stop off would be equivalent to a train wreck in that application. Shutters need to be tested, and their real speeds, and variation of any given speed, recorded. I have a Calumet electronic shutter tester good for that purpose. None of my present shutters have any of the common speeds off even a third of a stop - more like within a sixth or better at all but the highest speeds with every one of them. Antique shutters might be more problematic.

[Wanisun]

I haven't taken the plunge and bought a lens yet. Nevertheless, I wanted to thank you all for the quality of your messages and advice. It's a real pleasure to read this forum!

[Tin Can]

You are cautious

Good

Perhaps winter is coming where you are

I use Packard Shutters as often

Made since 1895, and still in biz

https://packardshutter.com/

I have a few, not for sale

I love 1895 Technology

Restoring this now for big glass

Also a 1895 Cycle Camera

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53084078624_88563d95f5_w.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oSRM9U)10X10 Hole 5 inch (https://flic.kr/p/2oSRM9U) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr



I haven't taken the plunge and bought a lens yet. Nevertheless, I wanted to thank you all for the quality of your messages and advice. It's a real pleasure to read this forum!