90mm Lens Choice Paralysis

[sperdynamite]

I'm looking for a 90 for my Linhof Tech V, and given that pretty much all the lenses are relatively cheap, and we have the whole history of photography from which to choose, I'm a bit paralyzed by it.

1. I have this crazy idea that I'd like to hand hold. I have a cam (I know it's not matched but I think it should be ok for distant to medium range subjects based on my testing with my 135mm).
2. I have a 5x7 camera too which tells me maybe the Caltar/Rodenstock 90/6.8 is the one to get.
3. The 4.5 90s probably will have a brighter projected image though, which is nice!
4. Maybe the older 90/8 Schneider's with the chrome front element would be perfectly fine, they're cheaper!

I probably don't want to go too old like those 90/6,8 Angulons. They're very compact but I don't think the performance is quite there vs the larger later designs.

I just got the external zoom viewfinder for my Tech V and this is all coming from the fact that it has a 90mm setting as its widest point. :o If it's there I should use it!

[BrianShaw]

My experience with handheld LF is Graphics... and the best soution seems to always be whatever was native and contemporary with the camera. Might be true with Linhof.

When not handholding, the range of ooptions gets much bigger. I'd concur that the old 6.8/90's aren't as good as the more modern lenses. the 5.6 and 4.5 options are heavy. I got a good deal on a Suuer Angulon 5.6/90 but its so big and heavy that I rarely want to use it. Had I been thinking with my brain rather than wallet, I would have gone for a f8/90. And I'd go for the newest one that I could afford.

[John Layton]

Avid 5x7 user here...and although I've recently pressed a 110mm XL into service for this format - I've also had great luck with my 90mm f/6.8 Rodenstock Grandagon-N...keeping in mind that if axial movements are employed, it then might (depending on the extent of such movements) become necessary to combine these with a bit of rise or fall to keep the image circle as centered as possible.

[BrianShaw]

Hi John... hopefully not too off-topic, but do you use a center filter? Is there a profound benefit to using one with a 90?

[Tom Monego]

I have a Linhof Technika IV and it came with a Schneider 90 f8 Super Angulon, Linhoff branded, with a 00 shutter in a recessed board. The lens is quite good, but has a lot of vignetting and you have to drop the bed and adjust the lens board (raise and tilt to parallel) this is a bit of a pain. The recessed board is necessary to get the lens on to the bed rails, I am not sure if the recessed board would handle a 0 shutter. Because of all of this I have only handled the lens on a tripod, I do have a focusing cam. If you are hand holdingI would thing a cam would be necessary. I ended up buying a 120 Angulon, not as good as the 90 SA but easier to work with. I don't have a cam for this lens so it gets used on a tripod.

[Dan Fromm]

Hi John... hopefully not too off-topic, but do you use a center filter? Is there a profound benefit to using one with a 90?

Brian, pmfji. There's not a strong consensus in favor of using a CF with a 90. Shorter, yes. 90, far from everyone finds it necessary.

I can't speak from personal experience since I shoot 2x3. For me, 90 mm is short normal. But 65 mm on 2x3 is roughly equivalent to 90 on 4x5. I've rarely felt deprived because my 65/8 Ilex won't accept a CF. No filter threads. Occasionally, yes I felt deprived, but not often. It depends on the subject. Same goes for my 58/5.6 Konica Hexanon ex-Omegaflex. No CF that I know of will fit it.

[BrianShaw]

Thanks, Dan. Your insights are always welcomed!

[Mark Sampson]

The older (chrome) 90/8 Super-Angulons are fine lenses. I owned one in the '80s and just printed an neg made with it yesterday. Plenty of resolution! And I used another example on the job for 20+ years. No complaints there either.
That said, in about 1991 I replaced the SA with a 90/8 Nikkor-SW, a fantastic lens. More contrast (which means better color rendition), likely more coverage, very sharp. I made a fair bit of money shooting architecture with it back in the day, and it's still a favorite.

Most of your "paralysis" is deciding what you want to do with it- no lens is perfect for every application.

[xkaes]

I've rarely felt deprived because my 65/8 Ilex won't accept a CF. No filter threads. Occasionally, yes I felt deprived, but not often. It depends on the subject. Same goes for my 58/5.6 Konica Hexanon ex-Omegaflex. No CF that I know of will fit it.

I know for some it's blasphemy, but for a couple of my lenses that lack front filter threads (the one that comes to mind is an otherwise perfect Tamron 17mm), I've simply glued a UV filter to the front. Any appropriate-sized filter with the glass removed would do the trick.

[John Layton]

Brian...no, I don't use a center filter with the 90mm - and for my needs have never felt this to be a detriment.

[Greg]

First off I'd acquire a used 90mm lens cam. "should be ok for distant to medium range subjects" makes for a bad start. I've had and used probably 4 or 5 different 90mm optics over the years. The Schneider f/8 just seems to fit your bill. Personally use a 90mm f/5.6 Super-Angulon XL with the center ND filter, but I'm focusing on the GG - you're not, and I've used it for shooting architectural images which required a lot of rise - again you're not. I started with a 90mm f/8 Wide Angle Dagor. As I recall I really had to stop it down to cover, but it never let me down. I was printing only 8x10s at the time. Not sure how it would have held up for printing a 16x20. A f/8 90mm Fujinon SW is another optic to consider. I have and use a f/8 105mm Fujinon SW... bought it because it was FS for very little money. Took a chance and to my surprise it has proved to be an excellent optic. 90mm f/8 Schneider or Fuji to me seems the best way to go. I assume that you're shooting B&W? If you intend on shooting color, that may affect your choice.
Good luck.

[Dan Fromm]

I know for some it's blasphemy, but for a couple of my lenses that lack front filter threads (the one that comes to mind is an otherwise perfect Tamron 17mm), I've simply glued a UV filter to the front. Any appropriate-sized filter with the glass removed would do the trick.

Joe, I thought you knew how lazy I am.

[Vaughan]

Some of the larger, faster lenses won't fit through the Technika front standard, check their rear cell diameter before buying.

Most if not all f8 lenses should be OK, and if you're happy with f8 then run, don't walk, run and get a Nikkor SW 90mm f8 and never look back. Unlike the slower lenses from other makers, the Nikkor has the same larger image circle as the faster versions.

[xkaes]

Joe, I thought you knew how lazy I am.

My post was meant for the few that still have some energy (and glue and time) left to spare.

[Doremus Scudder]

Some of the larger, faster lenses won't fit through the Technika front standard, check their rear cell diameter before buying.

Most if not all f8 lenses should be OK, and if you're happy with f8 then run, don't walk, run and get a Nikkor SW 90mm f8 and never look back. Unlike the slower lenses from other makers, the Nikkor has the same larger image circle as the faster versions.

I'll second that suggestion, especially if you need the larger image circle and a smaller 90mm. FWIW, the f/5.6 90mms are just too heavy and bulky for me. Plus they need larger filters, which makes the whole kit heavier and bulkier.

However, if you don't really need the larger image circle of the Nikkor f/8, a newer Schneider SA 90mm f/8 is a fine lens and a tiny bit smaller than the Nikkor f/8. Both use 67mm filters. I own both and carry the Schneider in my landscape kit (yeah, I've got a landscape kit and a city kit), as I don't anticipate needing the extra coverage the Nikkor has and I have the vague impression that my Schneider is a skosh sharper than the Nikkor - maybe just my imagination, though.

Best,

Doremus

[nolindan]

As a 90mm will require a dropped bed in combination with rise and back tilt to get the lens close to the the film; or a recessed lens board and around-the-bend shutter release, also a PITA, you might want to use a slightly longer lens so that there are no gymnastics involved.

I don't know the Technika 5x7, but I imagine a 110 or 120 may work without hassle and still give an adequately W.A. point of view.

[ic-racer]

For my Horseman FA 4x5" camera, I got the Horseman branded Topcor 90mm lens, because I could be sure it would fit the camera and all the camera movements would work with that lens.

If I had a Linhof, I'd get the 90mm lens designed for that camera system.