Flash Trigger Voltage Input Issues

[Mal Paso]

A lot of the newer flash triggers have Zener Diodes across the contacts so if the trigger voltage from the strobe is too high it shorts and fires the strobe as soon as it is plugged in. This protects the trigger but makes it useless on higher voltage strobes. I noticed this on my old Normans which have a 26 volt trigger. My newer Normans with a 9 volt trigger don't have this problem.

The triggers that I found do not work with 26 volt flash triggers but are fine at 9 volts are the Westcott FJ-XR radio trigger and the Wein Ultra Slave optical trigger.

The regular Wein Optical Slave and the Norman Optical Slave work fine on 26 volts.

I almost threw out a working Wein Ultra Slave which shorted on the older Norman Packs but worked fine when I tried it this morning on a Norman 2424. The 2424s have a built in optical trigger but the Ultra Slave will work at hundreds of feet so I'll keep it in the kit.

If anyone has more info on strobes and triggers please post. Thank You!

[John Layton]

Years ago I fried two Mamiya 6 bodies with my old Norman 2000's, due to high trigger voltage. I later solved the problem with a trigger voltage filter, which cut the trigger voltage to the sync cord contact considerably - cost ten bucks as I recall.

[Dan Fromm]

Use a Wein Safe-Sync.

[Tin Can]

Shoot under Safe Light

In studio black out

No shutter

Just flash bulbs or strobe or candle

Been there

[wclark5179]

Info I found (hope it helps!):

https://www.botzilla.com/page/strobeVolts.html

I used Quantum units fired with pocket wizards, both in my studio and on location.

[Mal Paso]

Thank You! Great info! Besides LF I shoot Nikon digital and Nikon says up to 250 Volts is OK although it's more than I would use. I've never had a problem with the older Normans at 26 volts with Copal and Compur large format shutters. My Bronica, Leicas and Pentax worked fine too years ago. Currently I'm using a Westcott FJ-X3 flash trigger and a FJ-XR receiver to trip the first Norman and Optical Slaves on the rest. I also have 2 400WS and 1 200WS self powered Westcott monolights.

I'll get a Safe-Sync on order, too bad the 2 prong version is discontinued. Thanks!

[LabRat]

One should test the trigger voltage on every flash and mark that on a label to attach to the strobe...

Easy to test by taking a digital voltmeter, set range to 500VDC, touch the outer and inner lead contacts on strobe or flash cord and measure that voltage... It may flash or not when measuring but note the voltage, then do this with every flash accessory...

Most of this came up in the 2000's when the Canon pro digital cameras only would handle 6V trigger voltage and many accessories then only operated around 6V trigger voltage...

Steve K

[Paul Ron]

my sunpak and balcor strobes are 200v-600v which old mechanical shutters can handle. its the electronics and shutters in digital cameras that have a problem with high trigger voltages. those safe triggers work great when trying to mate new age with old tech equipment. the safe triggers use opto isolators to keep the voltages seperate. if you are electronically inclined, i have a couple circuits that are easy to build diy using easy to get parts i can post if anyone is interested.

[Tin Can]

Please do as Voltage is not the whole story



my sunpak and balcor strobes are 200v-600v which old mechanical shutters can handle. its the electronics and shutters in digital cameras that have a problem with high trigger voltages. those safe triggers work great when trying to mate new age with old tech equipment. the safe triggers use opto isolators to keep the voltages seperate. if you are electronically inclined, i have a couple circuits that are easy to build diy using easy to get parts i can post if anyone is interested.

[Mal Paso]

my sunpak and balcor strobes are 200v-600v which old mechanical shutters can handle. its the electronics and shutters in digital cameras that have a problem with high trigger voltages. those safe triggers work great when trying to mate new age with old tech equipment. the safe triggers use opto isolators to keep the voltages seperate. if you are electronically inclined, i have a couple circuits that are easy to build diy using easy to get parts i can post if anyone is interested.

Yes! I would be very interested! I an an electrician with a background in electronics. It would be nice to have all my strobes compatible. Thank You!

[John Layton]

Do keep in mind that non-electronic cameras are not generally affected by sync switch voltage.

[Tin Can]

Me too

I am good if I have a schematic

Thank you

I want to fire big Flash Bulb with NIKON DIGI

I will test with older DIGI First!

[Paul Ron]

here is a trigger scematic...

[Mal Paso]

here is a trigger scematic...

I found several sources for the triac. Is there any additional info on the resistor, capacitor and diode?
Is the diode a 10 volt zener?

Thank You!

[Tin Can]

here is a trigger scematic...

Thank you

[Mal Paso]

Two different Safe Sync Builds:


https://photobuilds.com/index.php/2019/12/15/make-yourself-a-diy-safe-sync-unit/

https://www.robotroom.com/Safe-Sync.html

[Tin Can]

I want to use my pile of flashbulbs

I never worry using batteries on old flash handle

But will flash amperage kill modern cameras

I like the long flash duration

[Mal Paso]

I want to use my pile of flashbulbs

I never worry using batteries on old flash handle

But will flash amperage kill modern cameras

I like the long flash duration

I started with 50Bs, I think the power was a 6 volt battery, never had any problem with the shutter contacts, except when the shutter stuck and I screwed a 50B into a live socket, painful doesn't come close. Never Again!