8x10 Holder with 1/2 Dark Slide for 4x10

[Dhanner]

Anyone here using an 8x10 holder with a half dark slide to create 4x10 images? Looking for pros and cons of using that method to create 4x10 images. It looks to be the least expensive way to at least try out that format since Chamonix sells the half slide that works with their holders.

If anyone has a Chamonix 8x10 holder and matching half dark slide they want to sell, I would be interested.

Thanks,
Dave

[Tin Can]

Not I but did try a 5X7 half DS DIY

Too small

Soon I will be using NOS Deardorff slider

for 2 shot on 8x10

There are more variations

[Willie]

The Pro is that it works - well if you do.

The con is that some using it forget which way they inserted it and end up double exposing images on the same side of he 8x10 film. Have to be careful so that doesn't happen too often. No matter who you are it will probably happen at some point.

[Tin Can]

I have a 7X11 that "had" a capacity to shoot 2 by sliding the lens board sideways with a bellows divider

[Graham Patterson]

I have to put a post-it with a sketch in the bag with the holder. I'm not sure if it is better to have both sides 2-up, or mix. With the internal mask in my Intrepid 810 I can do 4x10 and 5x8, so records are critical!

Intrepid are listing half-slides for 4x5 and 8x10 at the moment. I can't commend on holder compatibility, though.

If you only want 4x10, the dark slide is probably the way to go. An internal slider/mask depends a lot on the camera - the slide is camera agnostic.

[Dhanner]

I have to put a post-it with a sketch in the bag with the holder. I'm not sure if it is better to have both sides 2-up, or mix. With the internal mask in my Intrepid 810 I can do 4x10 and 5x8, so records are critical!

Intrepid are listing half-slides for 4x5 and 8x10 at the moment. I can't commend on holder compatibility, though.

If you only want 4x10, the dark slide is probably the way to go. An internal slider/mask depends a lot on the camera - the slide is camera agnostic.

Nice, thanks, I didn’t know Intrepid had them.

[Oren Grad]

In addition to keeping track of your partially-exposed film, two other things come to mind:

* Depending on the scene and the exact design of the filmholder and half-darkslide, in some situations you can get flare or halation that extends into the adjacent exposure.

* Centering the half-sheet behind the lens will use up some rise/fall. How much this limits you will depend on how much front and/or rear rise/fall the camera offers to begin with, and (for shorter focal lengths) how flexible the bellows is and how much rise/fall it can accommodate.

[j.e.simmons]

I cut a spare darkslide. I cut it exactly in half, which was a mistake. Now the two images abut one another. The remaining part of the slide needs to be slightly larger so there is a little space between the images. I painted the handle end where its black on one side and white on the other red and green. In my notes, I record whether the exposed side was red or green avoiding the double image.

[Dhanner]

In addition to keeping track of your partially-exposed film, two other things come to mind:

* Depending on the scene and the exact design of the filmholder and half-darkslide, in some situations you can get flare or halation that extends into the adjacent exposure.

* Centering the half-sheet behind the lens will use up some rise/fall. How much this limits you will depend on how much front and/or rear rise/fall the camera offers to begin with, and (for shorter focal lengths) how flexible the bellows is and how much rise/fall it can accommodate.

Thank you for the info!

[Dhanner]

I cut a spare darkslide. I cut it exactly in half, which was a mistake. Now the two images abut one another. The remaining part of the slide needs to be slightly larger so there is a little space between the images. I painted the handle end where its black on one side and white on the other red and green. In my notes, I record whether the exposed side was red or green avoiding the double image.

I probably would have done the same on the cutting too, thanks for the tip in advance! BTW…was just down visiting St. Simons Island and Jekyll Island this past week…really enjoyed the area!

[Dhanner]

The Pro is that it works - well if you do.

The con is that some using it forget which way they inserted it and end up double exposing images on the same side of he 8x10 film. Have to be careful so that doesn't happen too often. No matter who you are it will probably happen at some point.

Yeah, it does add one more thing to the long list of things you already have to remember when shooting large format.

[Vaughn]

I have been using one for many years -- a self modified darkslide. I also have done it for my 11x14...getting two 5.5"x14" negs on one sheet of 11x14. One of the advantages of using a modified darkslide vs a dedicated 4x10 camera is that many dedicated 4x10 cameras are not set-up to easily make vertical images. Another is that one can carry the 8x10 around and have another format handy with just the added weight of a partial darkslide. I made mine using a metal darkslide -- sturdy and can be re-bent into proper shape without cracking (stays light-tight).

I use front rise/fall to center the lens in the 4x10 to be exposed (front shift for the vertical compositions). Nice to be able to do, not necessary as long as one's lens covers. Generally I avoid making a later mistake by taking both 4x10s every set-up. The horizontals are easy, I just have to remove the camera back and rotate it 180 degrees and it is ready to go. Verticals need to be re-composed and the lens shifted over for the second exposure. I use the same exposure or change it slightly. That way I get a second back-up neg rather than risk a double exposure or other mix-up later.

I have also just exposed the one 4x10 and have the light die or wind come up before I can take a second...and I put the holder away with just the one 4x10 exposure on that sheet. Why risk an important image for a half sheet of 8x10?

I have made most of the mistakes; exposed the wrong half of the film and other fun stuff one does with any LF equipment when rushed, too tired, or whatever excuse. It is an interesting experience to take the 8x10 holder out of the camera and find yourself looking at a half-sheet of film because you forgot to exchange the full darkslide for the modified darkslide after the exposure...ruining both images.

Below is the basics, and an example of a vertical 4x10. And what two 5.5x14 negs look like photographed on a light table and inverted.

[Dhanner]

I have been using one for many years -- a self modified darkslide. I also have done it for my 11x14...getting two 5.5"x14" negs on one sheet of 11x14. One of the advantages of using a modified darkslide vs a dedicated 4x10 camera is that many dedicated 4x10 cameras are not set-up to easily make vertical images. Another is that one can carry the 8x10 around and have another format handy with just the added weight of a partial darkslide. I made mine using a metal darkslide -- sturdy and can be re-bent into proper shape without cracking (stays light-tight).

I use front rise/fall to center the lens in the 4x10 to be exposed (front shift for the vertical compositions). Nice to be able to do, not necessary as long as one's lens covers. Generally I avoid making a later mistake by taking both 4x10s every set-up. The horizontals are easy, I just have to remove the camera back and rotate it 180 degrees and it is ready to go. Verticals need to be re-composed and the lens shifted over for the second exposure. I use the same exposure or change it slightly. That way I get a second back-up neg rather than risk a double exposure or other mix-up later.

I have also just exposed the one 4x10 and have the light die or wind come up before I can take a second...and I put the holder away with just the one 4x10 exposure on that sheet. Why risk an important image for a half sheet of 8x10?

I have made most of the mistakes; exposed the wrong half of the film and other fun stuff one does with any LF equipment when rushed, too tired, or whatever excuse. It is an interesting experience to take the 8x10 holder out of the camera and find yourself looking at a half-sheet of film because you forgot to exchange the full darkslide for the modified darkslide after the exposure...ruining both images.

Below is the basics, and an example of a vertical 4x10. And what two 5.5x14 negs look like photographed on a light table and inverted.

Vaughn, thanks for great information! I never really thought about the vertical option, but yes that would be much easier with the 1/2 darkslide. Unfortunately, my Wista 8x10 doesn't have shift but I think I could accomplish the same by using the swing on the back and front in tandem.

[Axelwik]

I think if you're new to large format it might be too much to keep track of, but once you can almost operate a view camera in your sleep it's not too complicated. But you have to be organized.

I've done it with 5x7 for two 6x17 images on one sheet. I used a straight edge and box cutter to remove slightly less than half of the dark slide only in the image area. It's important to only remove dark slide material in the image area, leaving it intact where it's in contact with the light trap of the film holder.

I then put two white labels on each side of my film holders, so four per film holder. One adjacent to each half, top and bottom of each side (in landscape orientation).

When shooting a panoramic half frame I mark the label adjacent with N, -N, or +N depending on the exposure I give it, then for the second exposure on the same sheet I'll expose it the same way.

If I'm shooting a full sheet, then I'll mark both labels, one as above, the other label with ( " ).