Framing layout

[Al Seyle]

Many years ago I saw a method for aligning the print within the frame. You place the print in the upper left corner and extend a diagonal thru it to the right edge of the frame. But from there I get fuzzy. Hate it when that happens! I liked it because it automatically gave you a centered print with a wider bottom border for the base. Also, you could use a uniform frame size for several different sized (and shaped) prints. Can anyone finish what I started here? Yes, I know it's simple--that's why I can't remember it!

[KenM]

I know what you're thinking of, and I say don't bother. To me, the print will be mounted too high on the mount board. Do it by eye the first time, and move the print slightly above center until it looks right. Then make a template for that size print/mat for next time.

If you're still interested in mounting via measuring check out this site ('http://www.russellcottrell.com/photo/centering.htm').

[Al Seyle]

Thanks Ken--just what I was looking for.

[Harold_4074]

The various mechanistic approaches leave out the effect of the "visual weight" distribution in the image; it seems that for best appearance, some need to be higher or lower than others. A landscape with a low horizon and open sky may look better mounted low on the mount than, say, a portrait where the center of interest is above center in the image.



One time-honored procedure is to trim the print for best appearance, without regard to actual dimensions, center it horizontally, and then adjust vertically for "best" appearance, again without concern for actual dimensions. Since the horizontal centering will involve obscure fractions of whatever length unit you are using, just use a strip of paper: align the print with the left edge of the mount, butt a strip of paper against the middle of its right edge, and mark where the paper crosses the right edge of the mount. Folded to the mark, the paper now makes a gauge for precise centering. Two tiny, light pencil marks on the mount will allow you to move the print vertically for appearance (while keeping it parallel to the sides) before tacking it down, and the marks will ultimately be lost in the shadow at the edge of the print. With a little practice, this is really fast, and there are no layout lines to be erased from the face of the mount.

If the print is floated in the mat opening, it seems to work best to make the bottom margin slightly larger than the sides and top, even if there is nothing written there.

If the mat overlaps the print, then the trimming has to allow for the hidden edges, which makes judgement of the best position a bit harder. Mats cut to neat fractions of an inch, and "force fit" to images which were printed without extra allowance for the overlap, seem to be the hallmark of the shopping-mall framing businesses! (There are also reasons for not using overlapping mats which have to do with archival preservation, but this commentary has already strayed a bit from the focus of the original question....sorry about that!)