Hello from Kentucky

[Jimmy Junco]

I'm a brand-new photographer in Kentucky, USA. I fell into this hobby (calling?) recently and haven't previously been very involved in any kind of photography, digital or film. Jumping in with both feet I guess.

I recently inherited a Calumet CC-401 (with missing ground glass) from a family friend. I installed a new ground glass and I've collected some of the other necessities. While that was happening, I've been reading a ton about how to use it all. I'm just about ready to take my first few shots.

Equipment:
Calumet CC-401
Rodenstock 210mm f/5.6
Three Legged Thing Winston 2.0

And of course other little bits and pieces to make it all come together.

Nice to join y'all here!

[Jim Worthington]

Welcome. I’m in Kentucky too and happy to help. I’m getting back into LF after some time off.

[JLNims]

Welcome Jimmy! Looks like you're off to a good start with your equipment. There is a lot of knowledge on this site, so use the search function to look for answers. You will find LF very fun and rewarding.

[Duolab123]

Welcome, my first real view camera was a Calumet cc-400. That was in 1976?

[Jimmy Junco]

That was in 1976?

I was born in 1975. It's nice to have a camera that's older (maybe much older?) than I am. I've read it's a bit hard to date the CC-400s?

Thanks to everyone for the warm welcome and the help in my first thread about getting this camera attached to the tripod.

[rgulley]

Hi Jimmy, and welcome. Another Blue Grass user here. This is a great site with a lot of knowledgeable people (of whom I am not, but learning!) Cheers!!

[Louis Pacilla]

Hey brother Jimmy Welcome aboard and glad to have you join us! I'm not to far away being I'm at the SW corner of PA. Looking to forward your contributions both in image & thought.Peace!

[Ulophot]

Jimmy, welcome. You've certainly found the right place to be. Have a ball!

Let me just mention one item that may or may not be an early issue for you, but could be. Those more familiar with this particular camera than recall from my first exposure to it in art college just as the mammals were emerging, can offer more precise advice.

Two planes in the view camera need to be in exactly the same place: the ground surface of the ground glass and the film when the holder is inserted. Otherwise, you can focus the image perfectly on the GG, but the film, slightly back or forward from that plane, may record a slightly out-of-focus image. You wouldn't think this would happen, but it does, for a variety of reasons, and sometimes very thin shims are needed to position the GG precisely. I had this problem myself a few years back.

There are various ways of measuring the location of the plane, depending on your tools and expertise with such things.

Part of the fun of film photography, especially large format, is mastering the variables, bit by bit, to gain facility in the medium that produces the kind of results you really want. It's a wonderful journey! Looking forward to seeing some early results -- I hope you'll post.

[Mark Sampson]

Welcome, Jimmy.
I used Calumet 4x5 cameras on the job in the 1980s. They are rugged workhorses, and yours should serve you well. They were made for many years; earlier models are painted silver and later ones are black, otherwise they are identical.
Please show us some pictures, when you have some you like!

[Jimmy Junco]

the ground surface of the ground glass and the film when the holder is inserted

You know, this occurred to me as I reading about focusing yesterday. Since the back of the camera moves when the film holder is inserted, I immediately thought, "How do I know the thicknesses involved here?" My assumption is there was some agreed upon standard but that's a laughable notion. I'm sure there at least 8 "standards".

I might try a dullard's approach to see if things are wildly off at first. Then again, I'll probably just take a picture and see what happens.

The journey is the adventure.

[Ulophot]

The advantage of LF is that we can process a single sheet at a time. You might consider a simple test. Two way to do this are as follows.

Use any suitable target, a plane surface with good contrast in fine detail; sometimes a printed sheet, e.g., flattened newspaper taped to a door or wall, is useful. You can also draw sharp, dark, thin X's on printer paper, cut out, and tape to the surface in an X pattern that will occupy 2/3 to 3/4 of the image. Set up the camera with all movements in the zero position (no swings or tilts) and determine that the camera back is vertical (assuming that your target is) and the camera horizontally parallel with the target as well. Make sure all tripods movements are locked in place. Focus carefully, lock down, close the shutter. Set the aperture wide open or perhaps just a half-stop closed (for slightly better optical performance) to minimize depth of field/depth of focus.

If you have a couple of small trays, you can use some print developer, even at 2x the normal dilution, and just develop the film for 2-3 minutes, in total darkness of course, agitating the film gently. If you do this, under-expose your target by about 1 1/2 stops; print developer is active stuff, and we're not looking for beautiful tones, just sharp detail. Rinse the developed neg and then fix for a few minutes and wash in running water for a few more. Squeegee off the water well or pat the neg in paper towels (again, this is just a test) and hang to dry. Examine under a sharp loupe or other magnifier -- you may be able to use your camera lens, pointed backwards at the neg.

The second approach is superior in one way, because, even if you selected plane of focus is not accurate, one will be, and you'll be able to see how sharp you lens is at the selected aperture. In this test, you use a flat plane angled to the camera. You can make one out of stiff cardboard formed into a V, book-like, to stand on a table, with the "front cover" angled at perhaps 35-45 degrees. Something larger than a book makes it easier, maybe 16x 20 inches or so. This time, draw a "ruler" on your target with, say, 7 vertical lines about a 1/4-inch apart, which, at 45 degree, will measure only about 1/8 difference in distance. Mark the middle one clearly with an X. Set your camera with the lens about middle the height of the target, squared up as before, except for the angled target plane. Focus on the X line, and proceed as above. The result wii show whether the X line or one closer or further is the sharpest.

This should give you an idea.

[Jimmy Junco]

The second approach is superior in one way, because, even if you selected plane of focus is not accurate, one will be, and you'll be able to see how sharp you lens is at the selected aperture. In this test, you use a flat plane angled to the camera. You can make one out of stiff cardboard formed into a V, book-like, to stand on a table, with the "front cover" angled at perhaps 35-45 degrees. Something larger than a book makes it easier, maybe 16x 20 inches or so. This time, draw a "ruler" on your target with, say, 7 vertical lines about a 1/4-inch apart, which, at 45 degree, will measure only about 1/8 difference in distance. Mark the middle one clearly with an X. Set your camera with the lens about middle the height of the target, squared up as before, except for the angled target plane. Focus on the X line, and proceed as above. The result wii show whether the X line or one closer or further is the sharpest.
This is a cool idea. Thanks!

[kmp.13]

Welcome!

[bspeed]

I am a former Calvert City and Paducah resident. So welcome to the addiction!