Omega D2V users: printing max size question / baseboard

[Serge S]

Good morning to all !

I am in the process of acquiring an Omega D2V & was wondering what is the largest print size,
would I be capable of doing on the baseboard with a 150 lens?
(just wondering if I need to get a 135mm lens as well)

Thanks

Serge

[Tin Can]

That Omega rotates to project on floor

Infinite in theory

I did it once


Good morning to all !

I am in the process of acquiring an Omega D2V & was wondering what is the largest print size,
would I be capable of doing on the baseboard with a 150 lens?
(just wondering if I need to get a 135mm lens as well)

Thanks

Serge

[Drew Wiley]

Either rotate or wall mount the column above a table capable of different heights. I once did that with an Omega for sake of bigger prints.

[Serge S]

Thank You for your responses

[rjbuzzclick]

There is an XL version of the D2V with a taller column too.

I've done 16x20 with a 135mm lens. I also have a 162mm lens but don't think I've gone larger than 8x10 with it.

[Huub]

I've done 16x20 with a 135mm lens.

+1

If you still have to get yourself a lens: a good 135mm can be used instead of a 150mm. I never saw the need to replace my 135mm with a 150mm.

[Serge S]

+1

If you still have to get yourself a lens: a good 135mm can be used instead of a 150mm. I never saw the need to replace my 135mm with a 150mm.

Thank You

[Drew Wiley]

150 will give more even illumination with less falloff, a 180 even better. But I once had a 135 Rodagon, which was otherwise excellent for 4X5.

[John Layton]

There is also the 120mm W.A. Rodagon - which is a truly wonderful lens (as Bob S. will agree!), which I use to make 30x40's on my Zone VI series 2 enlarger, which also has a light source (Heiland LED/VC 5x7) that is oversized for 4x5, so I don't need to worry about uneven light distribution as Drew implies above. Have not yet tried the 120 on my D2V-XL, so cannot vouch for its use on that machine, but might tend to worry about light distribution.

ON the other hand, I've had great luck with the 135mm focal length with the D2V-XL for making 16x20's, with both condenser and diffusion based light sources...but do keep in mind that this is the XL (extended heigt) version.

[mdarnton]

When I built the bench for my D2V I didn't put in any permanent shelves, and mounted the column to a solid and stiff narrow shelf at the back of the top made by gluing several layers of 3/4" plywood glued together. Then below, where the shelves would be, I put a series of strips of wood on each side to support shelves that could be removed to allow the easel to be dropped farther and farther down, right to the floor. I built the frame so that the head at the top would be at the ceiling. That way I had the option of positioning my easel anywhere. My favorite normal working height turned out to be bellybutton height. Make it all wide enough so the shelves are as wide and deep as you will ever print, with the head centered front to back. I don't print too large so I didn't figure out a lot at the beginning.

You'll have the baseboard left over. I guess you could turn it 90 degrees and use it as your main easel shelf. I believe Omega made something similar for the D5 where you could crank the baseboard right down to the floor.

[interneg]

The answers you need are here (http://www.jollinger.com/photo/cam-coll/manuals/enlargers/omega/D2%20Condenser%20and%20Dichro.pdf)

The official line from Omega for the regular D2V seems to be: 150mm = 4.4x; 135mm = 5.2x (all excluding thickness of easel).

[Serge S]

150 will give more even illumination with less falloff, a 180 even better. But I once had a 135 Rodagon, which was otherwise excellent for 4X5.

I ended up getting an 150 El Nikkor.
I have a ways to go before I have the enlarger set up.

I've got it apart, cleaned & lubed it.
The condenser housing is flaking paint - I need to strip it and repaint it.
Other than that the enlarger is in fine shape and will be ready soon.
I will have a sink almost done also.

[Serge S]

Yes I recall Bob mentioning that lens.
It's very expensive though.

I like to do 16x20's (with the epson) but think I will start with 11x14's until I get things fine tuned:)

I was told if I want a negative that I can print & also scan I would be better off using the condenser head & not a cold light.
Don't know if that is accurate or not?


There is also the 120mm W.A. Rodagon - which is a truly wonderful lens (as Bob S. will agree!), which I use to make 30x40's on my Zone VI series 2 enlarger, which also has a light source (Heiland LED/VC 5x7) that is oversized for 4x5, so I don't need to worry about uneven light distribution as Drew implies above. Have not yet tried the 120 on my D2V-XL, so cannot vouch for its use on that machine, but might tend to worry about light distribution.

ON the other hand, I've had great luck with the 135mm focal length with the D2V-XL for making 16x20's, with both condenser and diffusion based light sources...but do keep in mind that this is the XL (extended heigt) version.

[Pieter]

Yes I recall Bob mentioning that lens.
It's very expensive though.

I like to do 16x20's (with the epson) but think I will start with 11x14's until I get things fine tuned:)

I was told if I want a negative that I can print & also scan I would be better off using the condenser head & not a cold light.
Don't know if that is accurate or not?
I assume you mean print and not negative. The condenser head will give you a crisper print that will show more grain and detail (and dust), my preference.