What Dilution HC-110 Do You Recommend for 4x5 HP5 Portraits? What's The Capacity?

[Certain Exposures]

Hello,

The documentation (https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/wysiwyg/pro/chemistry/j24.pdf) for Kodak HC-110 developer doesn't recommend a development time for 4x5 HP5+ for the various possible dilutions. It also doesn't give the capacity of any dilutions for 4x5 film (i.e., it doesn't state how many 4x5 sheets you can develop with a given amount of chemistry and expect good results). My guess is I could do at least 4x the number of sheets printed in the capacity chart because it mentions "equivalent."

The most important shots I'm going to develop are a few portraits in high contrast scenes. Do any of you have strong recommendations?

I will use a Patterson 3 tank without replenishment to develop the shots. I can hold up to 6 sheets at a time in the Patterson 3 tank. I print with a condenser enlarger.

237509

237510

[Drew Wiley]

First of all, there are all kinds of portraits, some soft, some contrasty. And this distinction might affect your choice of not only length of development, but degree of dilution. HC-110 is typically diluted 1:3 from concentrate, and then, just prior to use, further diluted a certain amount represented by a letter of the alphabet. But some of us dilute it directly from the syrupy concentrate. You're apparently going to use the developer one-shot, and not replenished, which is best. But the capacities listed on the chart you posted are absurdly pessimistic, even outright ridiculous. In trays, I can easily do 6 sheets of 8X10 with a liter. I'm not familiar with your Patterson tank, or how many sheets of 4x5 it's designed to hold, or how much solution it accepts. But I wouldn't worry about the maximum number of sheets it can hold in relation to its normal solution volume. And I'd recommend first experimenting with either dilution E or F.

[PunkFunkDunk]

I shoot FP4 and HP5 in 4x5 format and develop in HC-110 regularly. I use a Paterson 3-reel tank with a “20th Century Cameras” brand sheet film insert that is made of 3D-printed plastic. I have found these better than the Mod-54 reels as it easier to load and keeps the sheets more secure. My only advice is to take care when unloading processed film since each plastic “arm” that clips the film into place will scratch wet emulsion. All you have to do is lift the arm when sliding out sheets and ensure its tip does not come into contact with the film. After I learnt this I have never had any problems with this reel leaving scratches.

This insert allows for a maximum of 6 sheets to be loaded at a time. A working solution of 1000ml will sufficiently cover the insert and film inside the Paterson tank. At this quantity there is no concern or effect with the rate of concentrate being insufficient to properly develop 6 sheets.

My times for HP5 that have always worked well for me are the following:

HP5 rated at EI: 250
HC-110 dilution H (1:63) 10 mins at 20 degrees. This means you use 16 ml of concentrate then add water to total 1000 ml.

HP5 rated at EI: 800
HC-110 dilution B (1:31) 10 mins at 20 degrees. This means you use 32 ml of concentrate then add water to total 1000 ml.

I never rate HP5 at EI: 400 as I do not like the look of it at that speed. I pull it when shooting in the harsh light we have here down in Australia, and push it when I want a bump in contrast for portraits in shade or diffused light.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Vaidotas]

https://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

I found data published here trustworthy and giving me consistent results.

[Tin Can]

I won't use HC110 as it is too thick to measure easily and accurately

I use any Rodinol usually at 1/100, but vary as high as 1/25

It pours easily and washes out of my 100 ml cylinder cleanly

I like my negs

I also like simple methods

Here is 8X10 Ilford HP5 Plus shot at 200 ASA with strobes in studio developed in Rodinol 1/100 Bare Scan

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600667179_36893c2e8d_c.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/43Sx8Z3523)A Tribute to Josphene Baker (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/43Sx8Z3523) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

[Roberto Nania]

Hello Daniel,

This is what works for me with HP5 exposed at iso 400: 1+47 for 9.5'
Usually I don't make adjustment in high contrast scenes since this film is quite soft in contrast, while I make adjustments for low contrast scenes (if not switching to FP4 directly).
Hope this helps

Roberto

[Bill Poole]

I meter at 320, expose for detail in the shadows, and use Dilution E (1:47) for 7.5 minutes as 20 C.

[Kevin Crisp]

I think Drew meant 1:31 not 1:3, but he takes a stronger and better approach to many things.

[Certain Exposures]

First of all, there are all kinds of portraits, some soft, some contrasty. And this distinction might affect your choice of not only length of development, but degree of dilution. HC-110 is typically diluted 1:3 from concentrate, and then, just prior to use, further diluted a certain amount represented by a letter of the alphabet. But some of us dilute it directly from the syrupy concentrate. You're apparently going to use the developer one-shot, and not replenished, which is best. But the capacities listed on the chart you posted are absurdly pessimistic, even outright ridiculous. In trays, I can easily do 6 sheets of 8X10 with a liter. I'm not familiar with your Patterson tank, or how many sheets of 4x5 it's designed to hold, or how much solution it accepts. But I wouldn't worry about the maximum number of sheets it can hold in relation to its normal solution volume. And I'd recommend first experimenting with either dilution E or F.

Thanks, Drew!



I shoot FP4 and HP5 in 4x5 format and develop in HC-110 regularly. I use a Paterson 3-reel tank with a “20th Century Cameras” brand sheet film insert that is made of 3D-printed plastic. I have found these better than the Mod-54 reels as it easier to load and keeps the sheets more secure. My only advice is to take care when unloading processed film since each plastic “arm” that clips the film into place will scratch wet emulsion. All you have to do is lift the arm when sliding out sheets and ensure its tip does not come into contact with the film. After I learnt this I have never had any problems with this reel leaving scratches.

This insert allows for a maximum of 6 sheets to be loaded at a time. A working solution of 1000ml will sufficiently cover the insert and film inside the Paterson tank. At this quantity there is no concern or effect with the rate of concentrate being insufficient to properly develop 6 sheets.

My times for HP5 that have always worked well for me are the following:

HP5 rated at EI: 250
HC-110 dilution H (1:63) 10 mins at 20 degrees. This means you use 16 ml of concentrate then add water to total 1000 ml.

HP5 rated at EI: 800
HC-110 dilution B (1:31) 10 mins at 20 degrees. This means you use 32 ml of concentrate then add water to total 1000 ml.

I never rate HP5 at EI: 400 as I do not like the look of it at that speed. I pull it when shooting in the harsh light we have here down in Australia, and push it when I want a bump in contrast for portraits in shade or diffused light.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks! I use the 20th Century Camera reel sometimes and I had the same problem with the clip the first time I used it. It's ok once you get the hang of it. I hadn't had any issues with it again until a couple days ago. (https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?172816-Is-tray-development-the-best-way-to-avoid-scratches-What-DON-T-you-like-about-it) I think I agitated my tank too roughly. The vibrations probably caused the clip to move back and forth and the film itself jostled in the pockets.

Do you have examples of each EI that you could share in your post?



https://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

I found data published here trustworthy and giving me consistent results.

Thanks, I'll check it out.


I won't use HC110 as it is too thick to measure easily and accurately

I use any Rodinol usually at 1/100, but vary as high as 1/25

It pours easily and washes out of my 100 ml cylinder cleanly

I like my negs

I also like simple methods
:)
Here is 8X10 Ilford HP5 Plus shot at 200 ASA with strobes in studio developed in Rodinol 1/100 Bare Scan

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52600667179_36893c2e8d_c.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/43Sx8Z3523)A Tribute to Josphene Baker (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/43Sx8Z3523) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

Beautiful shot (and model..what's her IG? :) ). What lens did you use? I haven't seen that doubling effect around her pearls and shoulder before. It doesn't look like you double exposed either.

The new HC-110 isn't a syrup anymore. That might get your interest.

Oh and did you add sepia in post or is this some sort of x-ray film effect?


Hello Daniel,

This is what works for me with HP5 exposed at iso 400: 1+47 for 9.5'
Usually I don't make adjustment in high contrast scenes since this film is quite soft in contrast, while I make adjustments for low contrast scenes (if not switching to FP4 directly).
Hope this helps

Roberto

Thanks! Could you share an example shot?


I meter at 320, expose for detail in the shadows, and use Dilution E (1:47) for 7.5 minutes as 20 C.

I'd like to see and example if you have one! Nice signature, by the way.


I think Drew meant 1:31 not 1:3, but he takes a stronger and better approach to many things.

The dilution he was referring to requires you to make a "stock" solution of 1:3 from concentrate and then a further "working" solution of 1:31 from the stock solution. So, there are two mixing steps to create your developer rather than one. Check out my link in the first comment for further details.

[Drew Wiley]

Official letter designations of HC-110 diliution traditionally factor diluting from 1:3 stock solution rather than directly from syrupy concentrate. But I personally do dilute directly from concentrate, which is a little trickier unless you're accustomed to it.

[Tin Can]

CE

Neither the person nor I use IG, not a model. We had 2 sessions.

The lens is German, Imagon no shutter, Packard shutter, Strobes.

Biggest holes wide open

Look them up. I wanted the OOF pearls and SF

I may get yelled at but is same model. with DIGI and strobes

I offer it as comparison.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52675321644_ea6ef04ab2_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ofJMWL)Hair (https://flic.kr/p/2ofJMWL) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

[Bill Poole]

Quote Originally Posted by Bill Poole View Post
I meter at 320, expose for detail in the shadows, and use Dilution E (1:47) for 7.5 minutes as 20 C.
I'd like to see and example if you have one! Nice signature, by the way.

Here you go -

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52706759272_4e88b68693_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oivVfQ)Fitgerald Marine Reserve (https://flic.kr/p/2oivVfQ) by William Poole (https://www.flickr.com/photos/poolephoto/), on Flickr

[SergeyT]

I won't use HC110 as it is too thick to measure easily and accurately
A syringe solves that problem .

[Drew Wiley]

Allegedly the newest rendition of HC-110 is somewhat more fluid. But the problem with a syringe is just like using one of those to precisely measure honey. It's sticky, and ordinary capillary effects don't apply well. I have my own method, but not time to explain it at the moment.

[peter schrager]

Allegedly the newest rendition of HC-110 is somewhat more fluid. But the problem with a syringe is just like using one of those to precisely measure honey. It's sticky, and ordinary capillary effects don't apply well. I have my own method, but not time to explain it at the moment.
It wouldn't matter if you measured the syrup with a shoe as long as you did it the same every time...people have used the syringe method for how long??
Repeatability is what counts in chemistry...the margins of error are already factored in by the manufacturer