Hot drying prints - matte or glossy

[kal800]

Hi,

Tired with glass and water tape air drying, I've given a try to the print dryer. I bought unused and built like a tank East German Ideal-D unit which looks like this:

235961

Now, since this device does not have any temperature control I fitted power regulation unit and now I'm able to set it for 60, 75, whatever centigrade. The glazing foils are never used and everything is ready for operation.

Firstly I've tried matte setting - I warmed up the heater to 75 centigrade, put a print on the heating plate directly and closed down cloth cover. 3-4 minutes later, I opened it, noticed that the print is stuck to the cloth and almost dry, so I unstuck it, put again on the plate and dried further minute. The print was dry, but the edges curled significantly. Now I'd like to try glazed procedure, but have two questions for practitioners:

1. What could I have done wrong in the matte procedure - why the edges are curled - have I dried it for too long? The format is 24x30 cm if that is of any relevance.
2. How should I proceed with glossy prints? I have a rubber roller, I've got Tetenal Mirasol, and I have some idea how should I proceed, but I need some practical hints to do this in a right way.

Any comments, hints and suggestions are utmost appreciated.

Kal800

[Merg Ross]

Hi,

Tired with glass and water tape air drying, I've given a try to the print dryer. I bought unused and built like a tank East German Ideal-D unit which looks like this:

235961

Now, since this device does not have any temperature control I fitted power regulation unit and now I'm able to set it for 60, 75, whatever centigrade. The glazing foils are never used and everything is ready for operation.

Firstly I've tried matte setting - I warmed up the heater to 75 centigrade, put a print on the heating plate directly and closed down cloth cover. 3-4 minutes later, I opened it, noticed that the print is stuck to the cloth and almost dry, so I unstuck it, put again on the plate and dried further minute. The print was dry, but the edges curled significantly. Now I'd like to try glazed procedure, but have two questions for practitioners:

1. What could I have done wrong in the matte procedure - why the edges are curled - have I dried it for too long? The format is 24x30 cm if that is of any relevance.
2. How should I proceed with glossy prints? I have a rubber roller, I've got Tetenal Mirasol, and I have some idea how should I proceed, but I need some practical hints to do this in a right way.

Any comments, hints and suggestions are utmost appreciated.

Kal800

You may find this helpful. Pay particular attention to wash time as noted in last paragraph.

https://www.darkroomdave.com/tutorial/drying-fibre-based-paper-using-flatbed-dryer/

[kal800]

You may find this helpful. Pay particular attention to wash time as noted in last paragraph.

https://www.darkroomdave.com/tutorial/drying-fibre-based-paper-using-flatbed-dryer/

I must've over washed it indeed. I was unable to finish the whole process due to some scheduled meeting, so I left the print in the washer for almost two hours.

I'll try to do everything according to the procedure

Kal

[ic-racer]

Keep those burlap overlays clean! Historically those were frowned upon for archival printing due to potential of transferring residual fixer.

I only use mine for drying test prints. You can see the fixer stains from years of use (since 1974).

235982

[ic-racer]

I believe many here will dry the fine prints on screens then flatten with heat in a dry-mounting press. That is how I do it.

BTW the picture shows resin coated paper on the screens. With fiber base, there is less curl if the emulsion is down when drying.

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235987

[ic-racer]

I actually changed my method of flattening this winter. I occasionally get cracking of the emulsion along the edges from the dry-press when humidity is very low. This winter it got below 30%. What I did, when the humidity was below 40% was to hold the prints over a steam room humidifier to hydrate them slightly before placing in the dry-press. I may do this for all prints in the future.

[Duolab123]

I use the Pako drum dryers, one thing regarding prints sticking to the canvas aprons, using a hardening fixer helps to allow the prints to release from the apron. This means using hypo clear and careful washing. Fiber prints are the only time I use hardener

[Pieter]

I actually changed my method of flattening this winter. I occasionally get cracking of the emulsion along the edges from the dry-press when humidity is very low. This winter it got below 30%. What I did, when the humidity was below 40% was to hold the prints over a steam room humidifier to hydrate them slightly before placing in the dry-press. I may do this for all prints in the future.

I wonder if a clothes steamer might work just before putting the print in the dry-mount press?

[Paul Ron]

get as much water off the prints as possible before putting them in the dryer.... thats the secret to getting flat prints...

also be sure the apron is tight. they get lose when damp or wet. you can wash the apron every so often to keep it clean.

[Rick A]

I wonder if a clothes steamer might work just before putting the print in the dry-mount press?

Yes, I use a cheap clothes steamer. If you don't have one you can hold your print over a simmering pot of hot water(steam both sides). Just make sure there's no water droplets on the surface before placing in the press.

[ASA1000]

What I found helps is blotting prints between two towels, before drying. Dont reuse the towels, use a dry towel (or section of towel) for each print. I like air drying on a screen and flattening with a press.