PDA

View Full Version : Cyanotype on fabric



pigpen
12-Feb-2023, 14:35
I am new to LF, and VERY new to alt processing. I've had 4 "sessions" now of cyanotype printing and I am definitely learning, actually getting results. I coated 10 sheets today and had chemistry leftover. Normally I grab a few more sheets but I've been experimenting with the humidity of the paper and only had ten ready. I coated a small area of a t-shirt and placed a neg on it. It turned out well, but the chemistry was bleeding into the fabric.

Anyone have suggestions on controlling this? I was thinking of a wax border? This is not something I see myself doing very often but I occasionally do things like this with my nieces and nephews.

Thank you.

Mike

jnantz
12-Feb-2023, 20:11
Hi Mike

there are several companies that sell pre-coated cyanotype fabric, you might email or call them directly. to ask their advice about what you might use .. I've only coated canvas (like to paint on canvas) ... im not sure if it is helpful but you might also check on alternative photography.com website to see if they have any solutions for you, I looked but wasn't really able to find something that could help but I didn't read every entry or comment/post.

good luck!

John

koraks
13-Feb-2023, 00:10
I coated a small area of a t-shirt and placed a neg on it. It turned out well, but the chemistry was bleeding into the fabric.

Just mask out the area you don't want to be printed and wash out unexposed sensitizer?

pigpen
13-Feb-2023, 13:28
Hi Mike

there are several companies that sell pre-coated cyanotype fabric, you might email or call them directly. to ask their advice about what you might use .. I've only coated canvas (like to paint on canvas) ... im not sure if it is helpful but you might also check on alternative photography.com website to see if they have any solutions for you, I looked but wasn't really able to find something that could help but I didn't read every entry or comment/post.

good luck!

John

I will look there, thank you.

pigpen
13-Feb-2023, 13:44
Yeh, that was my initial thought. I was hoping someone with more experience with it might have a trick or two. The cyanotype chemistry is so cheap compared to the other processes (platinum, etc.) so washing some away isn't really an issue.
Thank you.

Rick A
14-Feb-2023, 17:35
You can buy frisket film and mask the material before sensitizing, there are also liquid materials watercolor artists use on canvas.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155335045801?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1sCtbQjCMSm6XBJNSBgbTmw21&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=155335045801&targetid=4581046489808873&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640322&mkgroupid=1239149842233245&rlsatarget=pla-4581046489808873&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=2267c7dd25c11ac7a9ada4310d8ffe35

koraks
15-Feb-2023, 08:53
Searched, but I find no link regarding processing film with instant coffee and the results of doing so? I've watched some UTube videos but have never seen the results, and would like to. Might be a travel developer if the results are good.
BW

Wrong thread?
Anyway, search for "caffenol". Plenty of examples on Flickr etc.

pigpen
19-Feb-2023, 13:58
Thanks, might be worth a look. I "discovered" rubylith but seems to be pricey. Might be worth it if I can source it, can also use on paper when doing prints.

Tin Can
19-Feb-2023, 14:07
I have used the paper from this source

very easy and fun


https://www.dickblick.com/products/jacquard-pretreated-fabric-sheets-class-pack/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=01321-1030&campaign=Blick%20Shopping%20-%203&adgroup=Shopping%203&keyword=&matchtype=e&msclkid=03b60e4d264b11bb98086dbfa9596aa0&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Blick%20Shopping%20-%203&utm_term=4577266911058081&utm_content=Shopping%203

koraks
19-Feb-2023, 15:25
Thanks, might be worth a look. I "discovered" rubylith but seems to be pricey. Might be worth it if I can source it, can also use on paper when doing prints.

Check eBay. Some sellers are more attractive than others. Some still sell at decent prices.

jamesaz
22-Jun-2023, 00:08
I started watching this thread because I had been thinking of trying to make a sketchbook cover for my granddaughter. It took me a few tries but here’s how it worked out: I used some roll canvas I had. First I rough cut the canvas and soaked it in warm water until it became a bit more flexible and then line dried it. Next, I cut it to the size necessary and coated the gessoed side. I used a four inch paint roller and gently smoothed the sensitizer with a foam brush. Then it was hung up to dry lengthwise with the bottom edge weighted in an effort to keep curling to a minimum. Dim and safe lights off for maybe a day so it would be sure to be dry. Next day I clipped the canvas to a sheet of Masonite, arranged a collection of feathers on the surface, put glass over it and put it in the sun for 12 or so minutes. Then it was the normal rinse and dry.
Back to the book cover; at first I was going to sew the fold over part but that proved too labor intensive so I ended up using rivets.
In all, it was a good learning experience and of the five attempts, each getting better, I got three that are acceptable, the fifth being the one going to the girl. The first three were mostly trying to get the size right so the sketch book would fit correctly and the sensitizer would be smooth.

jnantz
22-Jun-2023, 05:07
I will look there, thank you.


Mike
the cyanotype store sells coated fabric, I've bought pre coated paper from them, they are the real deal ...

https://cyanotypestore.com/home.php

AnalogAngler
22-Jun-2023, 09:42
Couple thoughts for you:
1) Apparently not an issue, but the non-gessoed side of the canvas might actually work better. The cyanotype needs some sort of organic material to bind to - bare cotton is great (or silk). With the gesso you might not be getting the darkest blues possible (not sure what the gesso consists of, so maybe it's fine/non-issue)
2) As the chemistry is cheap, when doing a large fabric project I found it much easier and consistent to make enough sensitizer to soak the material. You can then hang to dry, and then later cut the material rather than trying to coat individual pieces. Also you can oversize the material and then cut down to the final size - which allows you more wiggle room if things aren't perfectly aligned to start with.

Tin Can
22-Jun-2023, 14:01
I will try the soak


thanks guys

PatrickMarq
23-Jun-2023, 13:50
Mike,

If you have facebook try this group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/253018104851474

The knowledge the is incredible