Broncolor Flash Pack Bonanza

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52524024412_253913a34e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o2nmxN)Broncolor Power Pack Bonanza (https://flic.kr/p/2o2nmxN) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Amazing deals are out there on Olde Broncolor stuff. I wanted some newer packs for the studio, started looking around, I have a lot of Universal Blue Heads of all sorts, they are compatible with more modern Broncolor, but are not fan cooled. This PULSO 2 was their -top of the line- 1600WS pack, has every bell and whistle available. New cost $4,300 I paid $150 on Ebay. Then I walk into "World of Used Photography", and back in their clearance room, are two PRIMO A 1600WS packs ($2,595 each new), and two PRIMO A4 3200WS packs ($2,995 each new). So I buy the packs from Gary for $50 each. Also in the clearance room, I pick up another complete Broncolor Impact 21 300WS Monolight for $12. So now I need some PRIMO A4 heads (rated for 3200WS) to work with the A4 packs, but my old heads fit the PRIMO A 1600WS packs, as well as my new to me Pulso 2. So the point here is that there are some uber good deals to be had out there.

[Bernice Loui]

Not just Broncolor, Similar vintage Elinchrom packs can be had for similar bargains.. Both Broncolor and Elinchrom studio power strobe systems are absolutely excellent in every way. Their flash heads from this era can be re-wired (same connector) to be Elinchrom or Broncolor power pack functional, once re-wired it is a one-way deal.

3000watt/second classic sold for $130 each. These have three lamp head outlets and power set distributed across the three outlets.

3000watt/second AS, sold for less than $100 each. These have three lamp head outlets with individual digital control from 188w/s to 3000w/s across the three outlets in any ratio.

1500 watt/second classic, sold for about $50 each. Identical to 3000 classic but 1500watt/second power.
232925

Already have a pile of flash heads..

Results of the digital camera boom. Powerful studio flash/strobe units and systems like this have extremely low demand today to the one much lower lighting power needs of digital, typically 200w/s or less is more than plenty. Coupled with the current fashion of 1/8000sec/ sync and short flash duration, digital camera. TTL control of multi-lighting and all that has greatly reduces the market need for these great studio strobe systems, where folks are essentially required to know how to use lighting to achieve their image goals.

They are still extremely useful for lighting large areas (digital applies here), film view camera work in studio and folks making alternative process images like wet plate and such where they using controlled lighting for their images..

Most of these powerful studio strobe systems have already found homes, get then while they are still some what available and folks that can make then good as new to be used for years ahead.

Bernice

[Ulophot]

Now I'm getting really discouraged. I was counting on selling my Paul Buff mono package for several hundred but the prices you cite are ridiculous. Ouch.

[Daniel Unkefer]

I reformed the caps in the new $12 Impact 21, and the Broncolor IR transmitter trips it. It's going right into use. It also will trip my Pulso 2 and two 404's and C171's, with the optional plug-in IR sensor. The FCM2 meter allows wireless Pulso2 power adjustment (1/10 or 1/3 stop increments, your choice). Nice.

[Tin Can]

A while back I borrowed HOT Moles, 1K and 2K Fresnel

https://www.mole.com/8011-1000w-molelipso

Even the stands are amazing

I was worried my paper backdrop would burst into flames

so I quickly returned them, my buddy had a dozen

[Daniel Unkefer]

I just bought a FOBA 1K Spot 220V cheaply in Germany. Not sure how much I will use it, the studio is wired for 220V. Sure looks cool

I still have a Mole rolling Stand HUGE had a Broncolor Hazylight attached. Really filled up the studio footprint. I am thinking of reinstalling the Hazylight

[Daniel Unkefer]

The Pulso 2 pack is working beautifully. For some reason the sync socket is missing, but I am firing it 100% with my wireless Broncolor IR Transmitter. With the FCM2 Meter I own I can power up and down, change from 1/3 stop steps, to 1/10 stop steps. It has worked like a champ 100%. So a great deal for me. The first Primo A pack also works 100% beautifully, checked all three channels and power levels. The caps are coming back to life nicely so another success. I'm using a single 1600WS Universal olde Blue Broncolor Head to check these out so far. Not fan cooled but really don't seem to get -too- hot for the amount of popping these are getting. I'm using Kevin from KHB's procedures to bring these packs out of coma. Talked to him again today and he's been a great help to me.

http://www.khbphotografix.com/ServiceParts2.html

Some of my Broncolor Universal Heads are new in the box and never used.

[wclark5179]

Decades ago I switched to Quantum. Used Pocket Wizards to fire them. Completely cordless. Lightweight stands. Proper temp. Got about 600 flashes per battery before re-charge. Had several batteries.

100% RAW capture with Canon equipment.

Why make it difficult?

Easy Peasy.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Because when shooting large format, small strobes do not have the light output to do the job, without doing multiple pops. I have resorted to that, but that is why I decided I needed some more modern packs, with some "poke". I've been popping my smaller monolights recently twenty to thirty times on a shoot, to build up the exposure. Not the best way to do it... Digital does not require big strobes, I have 300 w/s Broncolor Impacts, that put out plenty of light for digital. Completely different scenarios IMO

[wclark5179]

Would this provide enough light?

https://qtm.com/shop/q-flash-model-x5dr-flash-head-200-400-w-s/


F.Y.I.

I sold several large prints (50x40) made with my full frame Canon digital. RAW capture. How about you?

[Daniel Unkefer]

It's 400 w/s so similar to my Impact 41's which are 375 w/s. Good for medium format and digital, plenty of light :)

I've sold 16x20 B&W silver gelatin prints from 8x10 and 4x5 B&W portrait negatives. Not really interested in digital (I use it for testing lighting), happy with my Sinars. I have sold 30x40 color prints from Hasselblad negatives when I was doing analog weddings, it's all different. Never anything as big as 40x50. Anyway Good Luck to you whatever you are working on.

I'm also interested in shooting dry plates and alternative process films. This requires a LOT of light. Dry plates are about ISO 1.5 LOL

[wclark5179]

Thanks for your thoughts.

In business, I mainly did events. Quantum’s suited me just fine. And my Canon equipment worked for what I did.

Just a side note, when I did my undergrad studies, I helped with photography, I didn’t own hardly any equipment back then. The college had a Graflex 4x5 camera that I used. For film it was Tri-X. They had a darkroom with an Omega D-2 that I used. I have a B-22 that I bought in the 1960’s and it suits me fine now.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Omegas are great, I have two 4x5's, and a 5x7 in my darkroom. All of this is great at this point. In high school I owned a B22 and it's a great machine

[wclark5179]

I bought the B-22 XL, little longer to raise up the head for the enlarger. I use the Chromega color head for contrast and use VC paper.

Did color a long time ago, using a Unicolor drum. For me it was a PITA.

[Daniel Unkefer]

I use Unicolor Print Drums to process 4x5 and 8x10 B&W film. Works great for decades. On a Unicolor Uniroller

[wclark5179]

Didn’t use a roller. It has those ends when rolled by hand which move the chemicals around, end to end. I may still have it some where in my home. I also used a color analyzer to get the color filters down correctly.

Truth be known, I use my iPhone a lot now. Does terrific panos! And, if I want to, send then to someone right away.

Broncolor flahes too rich for my blood. Aren’t they from France?

[wclark5179]

Looks like Swiss mfgring.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Yep. Switzerland https://broncolor.swiss/

I like the olde stuff

Just bought another complete Broncolor Impact 21. Price was $12

[wclark5179]

Nice to chat with you here.

Looks like you have several enlargers! Me, I own just the B-22 XL!

I never had my own darkroom until my wife said, “we’re getting the room finished with a large bathroom for my darkroom!” First ever! Before, I used a bathroom where the counter only held two trays with the fixer tray on the floor! Enlarger was on a card table with part of the table in the bath tub! Tub was empty, no water in it!

[Daniel Unkefer]

Nice. I need to develop film and do some printing. Good Winter project catch up

[Bernice Loui]

Enough light, depends on needs.

Quantium, Norman 200B/C, 400B, Lumedyne, Sunpak, Profoto B1, Elinchrom one and .. happened from a need back in the days when wedding/event/sports photographers needed a higher power portable strobe system. They are rooted in the Strobo Research then sold to Graflex portable strobe systems circa later 1940's. Rated power of 200watt/seconds was intended to replace flash bulbs (not quite enough light output) for 4x5 press photographers. Since that time this concept has evolved into the similar power portable strobe systems of today that incorporate TTL via camera and more control of strobe light output..

There was a time when nearly every wedding/event photographer used a Norman 200B as a portable strobe light. Eventually Quantium introduced a radio remote system to trigger the Norman 200B and others.. Quantium sold LOTs of these back then and they had "issues"...

These portable strobe systems are good for digital, most medium format and for some sheet film lighting needs if the light output and light output from the light modifier is not typical f22. At best these 200watt/second units could do f8 out of a 2 f-stop reduction light modifier at maybe 3-5 feet distance to subject. Portraits are an example were these portable strobe units can work with sheet film if the exposure aperture is about f8 given their up to 200watt/second output and light modifier involved..

This 27" Elinchrom "beauty dish" is set up with a S3000 head, used often to make quick table top images using about 200watt/seconds into the S3000 head produces about f8 at 3-4 feet to subject. Light modifier like this will not easily work/fit with these 200/watt second portable units as they are not designed to fit/support a light modifier like this.
233186

Given 200watt/seconds produces f8, ISO 100:

~400watt/seconds = f11
~800watt/second = f16
~1600watt/seconds = f22
~3200watt/seconds = f32

f32 is just enough for 4x5 / 5x7 table top once bellows factor and other light loss has been "figured in". All that flash/strobe power gets "used up" pretty quick or why these modern portable strobe units simply do not work for these LF sheet film images.. Gets more involved and power needy once more than one light source is applied.

Once the exposure aperture becomes smaller as in the example of product or table top or interior or similar using sheet film and exposure apertures of f16 and smaller, none of these 200watt/second portable strobe system can approach the power levels needed to achieve these exposure apertures with a light modifier added. This is when there is no substitute for these "vintage" studio strobe units..

Elinchrom 3000AS, with two S3000 heads plugged in, lighting ratio is independently controlled to easily adjust light ratio as needed to 0.10 f-stop and it remains consistent per flash and consistent with light color temperature. Remote triggered via Pocket Wizard radios.
233191


Much about what the specific lighting needs are, much like all else in this foto stuff, always a set of trade-offs with none being ideal.

Bernice








Would this provide enough light?
https://qtm.com/shop/q-flash-model-x5dr-flash-head-200-400-w-s/

[Bernice Loui]

Multi flash/pops used to gain light exposure on film can have a different set of problems depending on how many flash/pops are required to achieve the desired film exposure.

~Reciprocity failure is possible.
~Color shift due to multi flash/pops.
~Set up or subject shift causing slight blur.
~ Each f-stop gained goes by double.. two flash/pops = one f-stop gain, four flashes/pops = two f-stop gain ..

Ideal to avoid this when possible, but it was very commonly done back in the day due to the limits of strobe/flash power available.
The sport car foto example in this Sinar info notes Sports Car Example:
https://www.pacificrimcamera.com/rl/01388/01388.pdf

~13x18 cm SINAR P
~480 mm Apo Ronar DB lens
~Ektachrome 64 Daylight film
~Bellows hood mask 2
~SINARSIX-digital, Module 2
~SINAR DIGITAL shutter
~80 sec at f/22 and 20 flashes

Bernice

[wclark5179]

I most always used my Quantum’s on low power, giving me almost instant recycle. Always off camera flash with Pocket Wizards. They are terrific. I set the ISO on the camera(s) to either 400 or 800. I ran the camera(s) in manual mode so as I could control exposure striking a balance between ambient and flash. I would sometimes use a gel to balance the light of the flash with ambient, corrected later with Bridge/Photoshop. I used at least two cameras each with different lenses which then I didn’t take the clients time fooling around with equipment. I had fun with this as I didn’t get confused with the outcome of the images clients liked. I hired at least one extra photographer for each gig.

I was very busy with my business. I loved it and clients could tell it.

[Bernice Loui]

Off camera flash is a BIG plus in many ways. Lighting is often not appreciated enough by image makers. IMO, using off camera flash offers a featured lighting that can never be achieved using on-camera_direct-on flash..

Suggestion, consider using ISO 100 or lower ISO unless the ambient lighting cannot be matched to the shutter speed and exposure aperture needed. Ideally, the lighting balance is done as the image is captured. This business of off camera flash combined with balancing ambient lighting and exposure aperture can and does make ALL the difference when properly done.

A practice that has been applied since the flash bulb days,
Bernice


I most always used my Quantum’s on low power, giving me almost instant recycle. Always off camera flash with Pocket Wizards. They are terrific. I set the ISO on the camera(s) to either 400 or 800. I ran the camera(s) in manual mode so as I could control exposure striking a balance between ambient and flash. I would sometimes use a gel to balance the light of the flash with ambient, corrected later with Bridge/Photoshop. I used at least two cameras each with different lenses which then I didn’t take the clients time fooling around with equipment. I had fun with this as I didn’t get confused with the outcome of the images clients liked. I hired at least one extra photographer for each gig.

I was very busy with my business. I loved it and clients could tell it.

[wclark5179]

On camera flash I equate to deer in the headlights.

Three biggies for people photography:

Lighting. How to sculp with it.

Posing

Composition

Yes, you are correct, best to get it correct in camera.

I would adjust color temperature during the process stage. But I had to get balance between ambient and flash when making the photographs.

Fun stuff!

[Bernice Loui]

Heh.. On camera flash = "Deer in the Head lights" yes indeediee, it remains The most common method of added artificial lighting.

One more biggie for people photography, Expression.

These "biggies" are often Far more important to the image created than camera used..


Bernice



On camera flash I equate to deer in the headlights.

Three biggies for people photography:

Lighting. How to sculp with it.

Posing

Composition

Yes, you are correct, best to get it correct in camera.

I would adjust color temperature during the process stage. But I had to get balance between ambient and flash when making the photographs.

Fun stuff!

[wclark5179]

“These "biggies" are often Far more important to the image created than camera used.”

Absolutely!

Now we perhaps should get back to our regularly scheduled program on Broncolor!

I’ll start a thread, if the moderators approve, on people photography. Can use a large format camera or a smart phone. Equipment not the most important.But it certainly helps! Matter of fact I’ve seen a few folks making photographs using large format some with unique processing.

Photography is fun! Smiles.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Getting back to BIGGIE strobes, what I find to get expensive, are the light modifiers/accessories for these units. ""Painfully acquired over time" as Bernice puts it. Exactly right. But even so deals are out there. Not something for nothing, but lots of bang for the Buck. More pieces are on the way for me so making slow good progress. Getting a lot for what I am spending :)

[bmikiten]

Many years ago, I had a Broncolor kit purchased from our local Sinar dealer. I'm thinking of getting another system for B/W 8x10 portraits on the road. I'm watching kits on Ebay but lost track of what is what in the line. Is there a guide that will show me what is current, shouldn't be purchased (due to parts) and what can be repaired? I've done a few searches but none really give me insight.

TIA

[Daniel Unkefer]

Many years ago, I had a Broncolor kit purchased from our local Sinar dealer. I'm thinking of getting another system for B/W 8x10 portraits on the road. I'm watching kits on Ebay but lost track of what is what in the line. Is there a guide that will show me what is current, shouldn't be purchased (due to parts) and what can be repaired? I've done a few searches but none really give me insight.

TIA

I would get in touch with your local Broncolor Dealer. Also peruse the website; Broncolor has always offered fantastic customer support, they sure have helped me a lot in the past. Can't afford new here; Happy to purchase used for some really great deals. I've been buying Broncolor bits and pieces new from B&H in NYC recently. And just bought a used Octobox 150 from Adorama for about half price. That's more my speed :) BTW Profoto Speed Rings also fit Broncolor and I've read much better made than the Broncolor ones (the Broncolor ones tend to fall apart!)

The Main Website:

https://broncolor.swiss/

Broncolor Youtubes are plentiful and walk you through some of the limitless possibilities regarding lighting modifiers

[bmikiten]

Thank you. I have been reviewing that site but was specifically looking for something that would speak to the reliability of older flash packs/heads, etc. I.e. what to avoid, what is a workhorse, etc.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Personally I think they are all workhorses. The Pulso and Primo packs I own are top of the line and have a lot of life left in them. Kevin at KHB has advised me numerous times he is an expert in strobe repair and modification. Maybe call him up and discuss your needs? Any used pro shops in your area? My new Pulso 2 pack came from Ebay.

http://www.khbphotografix.com/ServiceParts2.html

[Bernice Loui]

Broncolor moonlights, studio power packs, strobe/flash heads, light modifiers and such are designed, built with some of the best parts available with the goal of a product that endures decades with excellent reliability. There are good reasons why Broncolor gear is SO pricy..

If you're set on acquiring a Broncolor outfit, be patient, shop good and pounce on the Broncolor item when the opportunity happens.. Know who and where this stuff can be properly serviced, Spend the time, effort and resourced needed and required to get each and every part of the Broncolor outfit back into top operating condition. Once this has been done, expect many, many, many more years to decades of predictable and reliable service..

Not just strobe/flash light sources, much of the perk with Broncolor is in their light modifier offerings which are often some of the very best made.


Alternative to Broncolor would be Elinchrom gear before year 2000, after that Elinchrom went a different direction (not good) as did the electronic strobe/flash market needs. Before the dive of Elinchrom, they produced the "Ranger" portable system. It is excellent in every way, essentially a 1100 watt/second battery power "studio" strobe/flash system that allows using any Elinchrom light modifier on location (IMO, a Really Big Deal). Top complaint of the Ranger is weight due to the lead acid battery.. The modern and proper upgrade is to replace the OEM lead acid battery with a current Lithium-Iron battery (LiFePO4). These are a direct replacement and works direct with the Elinchrom charger.. Done this to three Elinchrom Rangers with excellent results, more energy storage (more flashes per charge), lower weight (about 1/2), equal to faster recycling times.. Only negative is performance at sub-zero temperatures are not as good due to the way Lithium-Iron batteries work.

Modern alternatives to these very excellent "vintage" studio strobe/flash units are pricy..

Profoto Pro10/Pro11 list for near $18,000 for a mere 2400 watt/seconds and two head outlets..
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1622657-REG/profoto_901011_pro_11.html

Basic head list for $2,900, 2400 watt/second.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/893134-REG/Profoto_900753_Pro_Head_Plus_UV.html

Twin tube head list for $4,100, 4800 watt/second.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/294083-REG/Profoto_900719_Pro_7_Twin_Flash.html


Adorama's Flashpoint 2400 watt/second kit, $6,200:
https://www.adorama.com/fplfx2400k2.html

Godox P2400 (sure looks identical to Flashpoint 2400), 2400 watt/second kit, $6,200 and special order:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1642812-REG/godox_p2400k_2400w_flash_kit.html

Current Broncolor Scoro series, starts at $6,100 for the 1200 watt/second battery power unit and goes up from there.
3200 watt/second Scoco starts at $10,300 then add heads:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?q=broncolor&filters=fct_category%3Astrobe_power_packs_20390

Power capability and cost reflect the higher power strobe/flash market of today, it is very much a specialized item today compared to a common staple during the sheet film era.. Or why these "vintage" studio strobe/flash power packs are an absolute bargain once made proper again and they have more strobe/flash power capability than the current offerings.


IMO, light modifiers, their variety and cost are more significant than the strobe/light source. Once the strobe/flash light source has:

~Enough light output (power).
~Absolute consistent light output per each and every flash (no more than 0.10 f-stop variation).
~Minimal color temperature change (not more than aprox 300 degrees K) over it's entire light output range.
~Absolute reliability and durability under daily use hour after hour, month after month, year after year..


The ability to support a Large variety of light modifiers becomes the far more significant question... as this kind of lighting is much about light modifiers and how the light sources can be used.



Bernice












Thank you. I have been reviewing that site but was specifically looking for something that would speak to the reliability of older flash packs/heads, etc. I.e. what to avoid, what is a workhorse, etc.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52538639310_2a1389d950_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o3Eg3N)Pulso Packs 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2o3Eg3N) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52538452489_1b49d42708_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o3DivK)Pulso Packs 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2o3DivK) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52538112026_48ed4bd3da_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o3ByiG)Primo Packs 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2o3ByiG) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52538395289_e085a4b1cf_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o3D1vx)Primo Packs 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2o3D1vx) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

It has been helpful for me to investigate the olde Sinar catalogs as you see here for PULSO and PRIMO. This is a good starting point to sort all of this out.

[PRJ]

Alternative to Broncolor would be Elinchrom gear before year 2000, after that Elinchrom went a different direction (not good) as did the electronic strobe/flash market needs. Before the dive of Elinchrom, they produced the "Ranger" portable system. It is excellent in every way, essentially a 1100 watt/second battery power "studio" strobe/flash system that allows using any Elinchrom light modifier on location (IMO, a Really Big Deal). Top complaint of the Ranger is weight due to the lead acid battery.. The modern and proper upgrade is to replace the OEM lead acid battery with a current Lithium-Iron battery (LiFePO4). These are a direct replacement and works direct with the Elinchrom charger.. Done this to three Elinchrom Rangers with excellent results, more energy storage (more flashes per charge), lower weight (about 1/2), equal to faster recycling times.. Only negative is performance at sub-zero temperatures are not as good due to the way Lithium-Iron batteries work.



Bernice


Bernice I'd love to get info on the Lithium batteries for the original Ranger. I have one of those with three batteries. They are all pretty old now though. I replaced one a few years ago with a Panasonic? golf cart battery that was a perfect direct fit and that only cost like $20 if you can believe it, but the Lithium-Ion sounds pretty good..

I used to have some Elinchrom Monolights back in the day. I think they were called Style. A couple of 600 w/s and a 1200 w/s. The 1200 was pretty nice to have but up on a boom it would definitely stress the boom. It was fairly big and heavy. I liked to use it overhead (over my head) with a huge soft box with a grid (maybe that stressed the boom too. :) ). Gorgeous light. If stuff is cheap I wouldn't mind picking up some good old strobes. Can't beat the quality of light coming out of an Elinchrom or a Broncolor. I was never fond of Profoto. I thought they were way overpriced for what they were. I had a lot of friends that used Normans. Those were workhorses but I never liked the quality of them. Kind of tin canny. The Toyota Corolla of strobes I guess. Hensel made a nice battery pack strobe similar to the Elinchrom Ranger back in the day too but I guess they are long gone now.

[Daniel Unkefer]

In the clearance room of "World of Used Photography" is a biggie Elinchrom power pack and a couple of Elinchrom heads. Could prolly be purchased for ridiculous prices? Not affiliated IMO somebody should "pounce"

https://www.worldofusedphotography.com/

Avedon used Elinchrom

Gary told me he loves to get rid of anything big in that clearance room

[Tin Can]

I have been there last decade

I will pass

almost tempted


In the clearance room of "World of Used Photography" is a biggie Elinchrom power pack and a couple of Elinchrom heads. Could prolly be purchased for ridiculous prices? Not affiliated IMO somebody should "pounce"

https://www.worldofusedphotography.com/

Avedon used Elinchrom

Gary told me he loves to get rid of anything big in that clearance room

[Bernice Loui]

The Elinchrom Ranger RX lithium batter conversion began with this web blog posted idea:
http://www.erikseo.com/blog/put-your-elinchrom-ranger-rx-as-speed-on-a-lithium-battery-crash-diet-and-loose-weight/

The battery and related parts are long gone due to the march of technology. There are better lithium battery offerings today that are direct replacements for sealed lead acid batteries. It was fortunate that Elinchrom used an industry standard size sealed lead acid battery.

At some point as time allows, I'll make a separate post on how this conversion was done.. The results are essentially the same to identical capabilities of the current higher power (about 1200 watt/second) strobe units. The Ranger RX is used with the Ranger RX specific Pocket Wizard which adds a number of useful features including remote controlled power setting for each Ranger RX..


Bernice



Bernice I'd love to get info on the Lithium batteries for the original Ranger. I have one of those with three batteries. They are all pretty old now though. I replaced one a few years ago with a Panasonic? golf cart battery that was a perfect direct fit and that only cost like $20 if you can believe it, but the Lithium-Ion sounds pretty good..

[Bernice Loui]

Thanks Daniel,

Will need to give them a call.


Bernice


In the clearance room of "World of Used Photography" is a biggie Elinchrom power pack and a couple of Elinchrom heads. Could prolly be purchased for ridiculous prices? Not affiliated IMO somebody should "pounce"

https://www.worldofusedphotography.com/

Avedon used Elinchrom

Gary told me he loves to get rid of anything big in that clearance room

[PRJ]

The Elinchrom Ranger RX lithium batter conversion began with this web blog posted idea:
http://www.erikseo.com/blog/put-your-elinchrom-ranger-rx-as-speed-on-a-lithium-battery-crash-diet-and-loose-weight/

The battery and related parts are long gone due to the march of technology. There are better lithium battery offerings today that are direct replacements for sealed lead acid batteries. It was fortunate that Elinchrom used an industry standard size sealed lead acid battery.

At some point as time allows, I'll make a separate post on how this conversion was done.. The results are essentially the same to identical capabilities of the current higher power (about 1200 watt/second) strobe units. The Ranger RX is used with the Ranger RX specific Pocket Wizard which adds a number of useful features including remote controlled power setting for each Ranger RX..


Bernice

Thank you Bernice. I'll look into that.

[bmikiten]

Nice. I sent an inquiry

[Daniel Unkefer]

Continuing On.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52546529146_059c2f43ac_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o4mGqs)Broncolor Pulso Lampbases (https://flic.kr/p/2o4mGqs) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52546063562_2ca830651c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o4jj29)Broncolor Primo Lampbases (https://flic.kr/p/2o4jj29) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

To complete a flash head, you need the lampbase, the flash tube, modeling light bulb, and with Pulso/Primo, a glass flashtube cover. These are fan cooled Primo heads, so they need the glass cover. Yesterday a Primo 1600 w/s Lampbase in great condition arrived here from Fedex. A Primo flash tube is also on the way, and the modeling light is 250W 120V so not too expensive and very plentiful. I stocked up so mucho on hand.

I do need 3200 w/s heads to mate with the new packs. I'm all set with 1500 w/s heads. And modifiers got enough for now. New Octabox 150 will be cool. The Profoto Broncolor Speed Rings are vastly superior to the Broncolor ones. One will go on the new Octobox. Gorgeous light; wraps more around the subject than some. And I can use 1500 w/s heads in a 3000 w/s pack; Primo has three channels and Pulso has four.

https://broncolor.swiss/products/octabox-150-cm-4-9?variant=3423

[Bernice Loui]

Octo shaped soft boxes were introduced by Plume Wafer back in the 1990's. Idea was to stop the rectangular eye catch light so common with a rectangular softee box and deliver better wrap-around than a rectangular sofee box. They DO make a difference and IMO an improvement over the then very common rectangular softee box.
https://www.plumelimited.com

Back in the 1990's when Adolf Gasser had a Manufacture demo show, they had a Plume Wafer Hex oval demo model for sale. Made the purchase at a bargain price. It 's been used often for portraits as it produces such a nice wrap around light with some degree of contrast control and nice feathering of the light source. Since that time, Hex shaped softee boxes have become extremely popular as they produce a very nice light for portrait work.

The current fad in portrait light modifiers are inverted focusable light source parabolic in a round/hex shape. These can produce a variety of light from hard_ish to Soft_ish, directional and easy to feather. Think this trend began with Briese and the cinema folks. Eventually Briese produced still photo high power strobe versions with their specialized strobe/flash head for their parabolic light modifier.
https://www.brieselichttechnik.de/products/flashlight?language=en


Not to be left out, Broncolor makes an excellent parabolic light: Para series:
https://broncolor.swiss/products/para-88-reflector?variant=95440


Popularity produces perforation of ... Godox version:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Godox%20Parabolic%20158&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&ap=Y&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7bucBhCeARIsAIOwr-_AugjqEcNKJkUD3pse-rFZazhdk0vHGNfGB6oiuk7j30PbsK-kpsQaAlk_EALw_wcB

It was not long ago when high power ring strobe/flash lighting was popular for fashion, then it essentially died out.


Lighting styles come and go, yet the fundamentals of lighting has never changed or deviated,

Bernice




New Octabox 150 will be cool. The Profoto Broncolor Speed Rings are vastly superior to the Broncolor ones. One will go on the new Octobox. Gorgeous light; wraps more around the subject than some. And I can use 1500 w/s heads in a 3000 w/s pack; Primo has three channels and Pulso has four.

https://broncolor.swiss/products/octabox-150-cm-4-9?variant=3423

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52553060012_359cdb1406_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o4WaPA)New Octobox 150 Test (https://flic.kr/p/2o4WaPA) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

The Broncolor Octobox 150 arrived yesterday and I put it together and moved stuff in my studio around to accommodate. I love it! It lights -everything- I can shoot full length fashion or portraiture with beautiful Octo light. They make accessories for this and I'll prolly get most of them. The Broncolor C200 Moonlight puts it out now! F16 with full power 1600 Watt/Seconds at EI 12. Recycles super quick. Big Moonlights generally put out more light than pack systems, the energy doesn't have to go through cables, that decreases your total power output. Broncolor stated in the day that the C200 puts out as much power as some 2400 watt/second packs, and Broncolor reflectors are also super efficient. So Happy-Happy. POP POP POP. Octobox 45 left, 2ftx4ft Foamcore just off camera 45 right. So classic lighting

[Two23]

So exactly where can I buy these bargains? I need 5,000 to 10,000ws for wet plate.



Kent in SD

[Daniel Unkefer]

So exactly where can I buy these bargains? I need 5,000 to 10,000ws for wet plate.



Kent in SD

I bought four Broncolor packs cheaply from our local used camera store. Some parts recently purchased have come from Ebay. Can't really point you to anything specific.

[Bernice Loui]

Beautiful light wrap around.. Note the nice catchlights on the glass vase..


Bernice



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52553060012_359cdb1406_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o4WaPA)New Octobox 150 Test (https://flic.kr/p/2o4WaPA) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

The Broncolor Octobox 150 arrived yesterday and I put it together and moved stuff in my studio around to accommodate. I love it! It lights -everything- I can shoot full length fashion or portraiture with beautiful Octo light. They make accessories for this and I'll prolly get most of them. The Broncolor C200 Moonlight puts it out now! F16 with full power 1600 Watt/Seconds at EI 12. Recycles super quick. Big Moonlights generally put out more light than pack systems, the energy doesn't have to go through cables, that decreases your total power output. Broncolor stated in the day that the C200 puts out as much power as some 2400 watt/second packs, and Broncolor reflectors are also super efficient. So Happy-Happy. POP POP POP. Octobox 45 left, 2ftx4ft Foamcore just off camera 45 right. So classic lighting

[Bernice Loui]

They appear in various places from foto gear dealers to eBay and more.. There were LOTs of these high power strobe units sold/used back in the day.
The prime problem, do they still work, what is required to make them proper again. Shop and be ready to make the purchase when it's time. There has been some increase in high power strobe systems in recent times due to... wet plate popularity and such.

At the nee 9,600 watt/seconds is the quad tube Speedotron 105 head.. Takes two 4800 watt/second or four 2400 watt second Speedotron power packs to make it go. These were originally designed/intented for indoor sporting events, thus the short flash duration for the rated power output.
https://speedotron.com/shop/light-15/

Speedotron as a brand is essentially USA industrial, they are durable, reliable and most easy to obtain for high power strobe systems. They continue to have Good service support which is an important feature.

Elinchrom made a X8 then later X8000 twin tube head, 8,000 watt seconds with two 4000 watt/second power packs. Not so common in the USA market, possible to find in EU and related. .
233514

Elinchrom also made a X6000 twin tube, 6000 watt/second head after the X8/X8000 was discontinued.

Last is the Elinchrom X4000 twin tube, 4800 watt/second head.
https://www.adorama.com/el20181.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA-dCcBhBQEiwAeWidtdL8r_C28AkR5md9SN8zmtT_jydVVtWeacQF_EpzX6TgTRgLNFtMdhoCFGoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&utm_source=adl-gbase-p

Broncolor made a number of 6400watt/second heads going back to their 606 power pack system, like this:
https://movingpicture.com/product/broncolor-head-pulso-twin-bi-tube-flash-head/

Profoto also made a 9600watt/second twin tube head, also used two 4800 watt/second power packs to run. It has been reported Profoto does not have the light output as Speedotron/Elinchrom/Broncolor.. This is could be due to their recessed flash tube design.

All this watt/second stuff is not a lot more than just numbers, what counts is where light meets subject ala the flash meter readings over the subject area..

Then add light modifiers which is of absolute importance to any lighting system.


Bernice



So exactly where can I buy these bargains? I need 5,000 to 10,000ws for wet plate.

Kent in SD

[Bernice Loui]

Sinar info# 21, Moto car foto.. or back in them days when applying 40,000 watt/seconds to make a 8x10 color transparency AD foto was common..
How times, images, folks making images have changed...

233517

233518

233519

233520


Bernice

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52563804730_db22e7edd9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o5TeRm)New Primo 1600 WS Head Smoked Tube EXC (https://flic.kr/p/2o5TeRm) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Sometimes you can accumulate this big strobe stuff by buying it in pieces and put it together. The Primo 1600 WS Head by itself in great condition was $65, I bought the somewhat smoked but still good Primo 1600 WS Flashtube on Ebay from Israel. It was expensive but I wanted it. The Modeling Light I have in my studio lighting supply box, it's just a 120V 250W Bulb. This new head works great in all aspects. Some Pros like the Primos over Pulso, that they are some what easier to aim. I do like how they fit Manfrotto Light Stands I have around, not fond of the Broncolor Pulso (long post). I can see why Pros like the Primo Flash Packs too, they are 1/3 the weight of the Pulsos. As long as you don't need asymmetrical firing, you are Golden with Primo.

[Andreas]

I have a couple of Elinchrom X8000 (with 4 generators). They actually only bring half a stop more than the T4 (4000 W/s) heads. Cost an arm and a leg back in the 80's. They were used to photograph furniture (and cars) on 8x10 . Today those 16 KW/s are nice to make a group photograph on wet plate. If we had uv-flashtubes, we only would need a fraction of that power.
Andreas

[Bernice Loui]

Those X8000 flash tubes are tired.. or the 404 pack flash capacitors no longer hold full charge.
Should get one f-stop more than a 4KW flash head.

Bernice



I have a couple of Elinchrom X8000 (with 4 generators). They actually only bring half a stop more than the T4 (4000 W/s) heads. Cost an arm and a leg back in the 80's. They were used to photograph furniture (and cars) on 8x10 . Today those 16 KW/s are nice to make a group photograph on wet plate. If we had uv-flashtubes, we only would need a fraction of that power.
Andreas

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52575972914_9f83287ba8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o6XB2C)Two Rebuilt Broncolor Primo 2 Heads Working Fully (https://flic.kr/p/2o6XB2C) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

These two strobe heads are Broncolor Primo 2 1600 watt/seconds fan cooled Pulso compatible. Perfect to use on the four new Primo 2 and Primo 4 Packs I just reformed and good to go back to life. Plenty of power, light weight packs, desirable as pro units. To finish them I have ordered two Glass UV coated covers. Kevin at KHB told me if you have fan cooled, you need covers for safety. Peartree Photo in London UK has a great deal on new deluxe covers at a great price, and more durable than Broncolor, an upgrade really. I've been buying cheaply Pulso original Heads, these are the model P70 which are the standard reflector, and they take all kinds of extra accessories. Broncolor does have a great line of light modifiers, and great product support. So now I am in business with the four new to me Broncolor packs that I have just received and tested and ready to go now. And the new Pulso 2 pack works remotely with my Broncolor FM2 Infared unit, so things are good. This set was lit with Octobox 150 and medium sized foamcore fill panel on opposite side. The unit on the left is from Adorama, it needed some repair, I replaced the outer plug cover, it was broken and potentially dangerous as a plug in. Fixed all good now, also repaired the rubber outer cover that goes into the strobe head with a good amount of military grade electrical tape. So also good as now, both units work full power ready to use


https://peartreephoto.com/broncolor-compatible/broncolor-compatible-dome-500k-pulso-24-primo-24-hazylight-24-compuls-65-95-165-pulso-g

[williaty]

Amazing deals are out there on Olde Broncolor stuff. I wanted some newer packs for the studio, started looking around, I have a lot of Universal Blue Heads of all sorts, they are compatible with more modern Broncolor, but are not fan cooled. This PULSO 2 was their -top of the line- 1600WS pack, has every bell and whistle available. New cost $4,300 I paid $150 on Ebay. Then I walk into "World of Used Photography", and back in their clearance room, are two PRIMO A 1600WS packs ($2,595 each new), and two PRIMO A4 3200WS packs ($2,995 each new). So I buy the packs from Gary for $50 each. Also in the clearance room, I pick up another complete Broncolor Impact 21 300WS Monolight for $12. So now I need some PRIMO A4 heads (rated for 3200WS) to work with the A4 packs, but my old heads fit the PRIMO A 1600WS packs, as well as my new to me Pulso 2. So the point here is that there are some uber good deals to be had out there.

Hello fellow Columbusian! I saw some of that Broncolor gear at Gary's too and was crazy tempted to buy it. However, at the time I looked, he only had packs and no heads. I was concerned that the price of the heads on ebay would be out of my ability to buy so I left the packs there, much to my sadness. I actually got a similarly good deal on some Norman stuff from him about 6 years ago. I ended up walking out with ~10kWs of packs, a half dozen heads, a TriLite, and about 2 dozen modifiers for under $300. That got me started shooting wetplate by strobe. Then a year later, he had a Zeus 2500 pack and head for $200, so I switched to that, sold off the Norman stuff, and used that money to buy some X3200s for wet plate. I gained a stop and a half of exposure (always a massive win in wet plate) and they are compatible with all the modifiers I have for my Einstein stuff. Heck, I bought the Eastman 2D 8x10 and the giant camera stand I have from him as well because I asked if he'd be willing to sell anything he had in the side room that always has the door shut/locked.

It's a fantastic store!

[Andreas]

Thanks for your reply Bernice. Each of the 404 packs seem to deliver the right power into any T4 head. The X8 /X8000 come from two different sources, one has quite dark tubes, the other pretty clear. Output is never at the level of the T4 heads. Elinchrom later replaced these twin heads with versions rated at 6000W/s, which is what I get from mine. I wonder if there is some connection there.
I will investigate your suggestion and keep an eye open for new tubes for the X8/x8000 (though the OEM price for one is more than I paid for the whole rig !).

Andreas


Those X8000 flash tubes are tired.. or the 404 pack flash capacitors no longer hold full charge.
Should get one f-stop more than a 4KW flash head.

Bernice

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52587735338_970ceec2e9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2o7ZTA3)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2o7ZTA3) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Battle of the Beautylights. On the right, is the Olde Broncolor C171 takes Universal attachments. Great strobe 375 Joules plenty of light, with the Universal Beautylight. I also have a black Grid that fits this Beautylight. Bought cheaply when MPEX was on High Street. On the left, $12 Broncolor Impact Monolight, 250 Joules with Impact Beautylight and original Diffuser. Head is light as a feather, I have standardized on these Impacts, have many 375 Joule units (Impact 41) that are power equivalent to the Olde C171 right. I have made adapters to go Universal to Impact. Easy to do and useful. The strobe on the right I paid $50 in the basement of Midwest, twenty five years ago and it just keeps going and going and going. The Impact on the left was $12 complete recently from World of Used Photography. Worth every penny.

The electrical design of the Impacts is such that all the components are over designed, and extremely simply reliable circuit, so usually after reforming these just fire up and go and go and go. I have used to use them weddings at times and always reliable. I did get one on Ebay I had to toss (making some bad smell) but I saved the extra parts which I do use sometimes. On the C171 the wires were hanging out the back, so I removed the rear cover, and rewired the sync connection. The Golden female sync connection (phono plug) came from Radio Shack. It's worked fine for the last twenty years.

[Bernice Loui]

Easy enough to test..

The x8/x8000 head has two cables, one to each 4000watt/second flash tube. Test fire each flash tube individually with an accurate flash meter for light output. Both flash tubes should have identical light output. If not, there is a problem.

New flash tubes for the x8/x8000 head are still available as special order from elinchrom or from (about 400U$D):
Phoxene
7 Chemin des hirondelles
69570 Dardilly - France
Tel. +33 (0)4 37 90 02 46

Bernice



Thanks for your reply Bernice. Each of the 404 packs seem to deliver the right power into any T4 head. The X8 /X8000 come from two different sources, one has quite dark tubes, the other pretty clear. Output is never at the level of the T4 heads. Elinchrom later replaced these twin heads with versions rated at 6000W/s, which is what I get from mine. I wonder if there is some connection there.
I will investigate your suggestion and keep an eye open for new tubes for the X8/x8000 (though the OEM price for one is more than I paid for the whole rig !).

Andreas

[brighamr]

Hi Daniel

re.

"I'm using Kevin from KHB's procedures to bring these packs out of coma."

Are you able to share the procedure to revive old flash pack caps please ?

[Daniel Unkefer]

Hi Daniel

re.

"I'm using Kevin from KHB's procedures to bring these packs out of coma."

Are you able to share the procedure to revive old flash pack caps please ?

I would suggest contacting KHB and go over with Kevin what you have.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Hello fellow Columbusian! I saw some of that Broncolor gear at Gary's too and was crazy tempted to buy it. However, at the time I looked, he only had packs and no heads. I was concerned that the price of the heads on ebay would be out of my ability to buy so I left the packs there, much to my sadness. I actually got a similarly good deal on some Norman stuff from him about 6 years ago. I ended up walking out with ~10kWs of packs, a half dozen heads, a TriLite, and about 2 dozen modifiers for under $300. That got me started shooting wetplate by strobe. Then a year later, he had a Zeus 2500 pack and head for $200, so I switched to that, sold off the Norman stuff, and used that money to buy some X3200s for wet plate. I gained a stop and a half of exposure (always a massive win in wet plate) and they are compatible with all the modifiers I have for my Einstein stuff. Heck, I bought the Eastman 2D 8x10 and the giant camera stand I have from him as well because I asked if he'd be willing to sell anything he had in the side room that always has the door shut/locked.

It's a fantastic store!

Yes I like dealing with Gary, he's a good Guy. Went back last week and the strobes back in the clearance room are GONE; the room is nearly empty. Gary told me earlier on that he thought he had Primo heads around, but no such luck. But now bought two more complete 1600J Primo heads on Ebay, so now I will have four GOOD fan cooled. Lots to work on during the cold weather here.

[Andreas]

Hi Bernice,
I just tested my generators and lamp heads. Using an almost perfectly clear tube on an S4000 head (4000 w/s), I get an f45 2/3 at 2.7m from each of my 404 generators (fiver of them, all within 1/3 of an f/stop). Nice.
I have two 8000 w/s heads with twin tubes. One of them with almost pristine tubes, the other with very cloudy tubes. Both heads produce half an f/stop less than the 4000 w/s head. I see no significant change if I plug in a single or both of the twin-tube heads.
I did not use a reflector for my tests. I tend to conclude that those twin heads with their u-shaped tubes are less efficient than those that use a single ring shaped tube.
234650234643234651234652

[Bernice Loui]

Hello Andres,

Do this same test using a reflector or directional light modifier with the flash meter about centered to the Elinchrom flash head.

The twin tube flash heads are further away from the dinky semi-reflector built into the flash head compared to the single semi round flash tube.
The semi round single tube has a light distribution advantage due to the way light is distributed as a bare bulb light source of being slightly more directional than the twin flash tube flash head.

For those not aware, Elinchrom's later flash head offerings became their "N" series which has a plastic housing in place of metal, off the shelf "boxer" fan instead of the motor with fan blade unit. The A3000N has a shorter flash duration tube with the electrodes 180 degrees apart ands centered on the circular flash tube. The S3000N flash head has the standard semi circular flash tube. Both these flash heads are rated for 3,000 watt/seconds.

The S3000 flash head has the semi circular flash tube, rated for 4,000 watt/seconds.

The twin flash tube X8 and X8000 flash head is rated for 4,000 watt/seconds per flash tube. Twin flash tubes allows putting 8,000 watt seconds into a single flash head using two Elinchrom 404 power packs. Elinchrom made a 6000 "classic" and 6000 AS both are rated at 6,000 watt seconds. Both flash tube cables can be plugged into a single 6,000 watt/second power pack to produce 6,000 watt/seconds of strobe light power.


Bernice



Hi Bernice,
I just tested my generators and lamp heads. Using an almost perfectly clear tube on an S4000 head (4000 w/s), I get an f45 2/3 at 2.7m from each of my 404 generators (fiver of them, all within 1/3 of an f/stop). Nice.

I have two 8000 w/s heads with twin tubes. One of them with almost pristine tubes, the other with very cloudy tubes. Both heads produce half an f/stop less than the 4000 w/s head. I see no significant change if I plug in a single or both of the twin-tube heads.

I did not use a reflector for my tests. I tend to conclude that those twin heads with their u-shaped tubes are less efficient than those that use a single ring shaped tube.

[Andreas]

Thanks for you thoughts Bernice,
I did the experiment again using a standard reflector.
234741
Results are similar; a lamp with"U" shaped flash tubes produces between one third and half a stop less light than a lamp that has "O" shaped tubes.
At 3m and ISO100. an el404 generator together with a 4000 w/s (single "O" shaped) gets me a tad over f/64
At same distance, two el404 with an 8000 w/s (twin "U" shaped) gets me f/64 2/3.
I would have to check with Elinchrome, but I guess that this could be a reason why their latest twin-tubes heads are rated at 6000 w/s
This is still a lot of light, and sometimes half a stop is the difference that makes a good picture (plate..).
Andreas

[Bernice Loui]

Interesting.. Do not have a fully functional twin tube X8/X8000 head to try this for comparison.

This experiment nicely illustrates how watt/second rating and all that is merely relative and not directly telling of actual light output from any given flash head.
It illustrated how important using a good flash meter become the light output bringer of truth..


Bernice



Thanks for you thoughts Bernice,
I did the experiment again using a standard reflector.
234741
Results are similar; a lamp with"U" shaped flash tubes produces between one third and half a stop less light than a lamp that has "O" shaped tubes.
At 3m and ISO100. an el404 generator together with a 4000 w/s (single "O" shaped) gets me a tad over f/64
At same distance, two el404 with an 8000 w/s (twin "U" shaped) gets me f/64 2/3.
I would have to check with Elinchrome, but I guess that this could be a reason why their latest twin-tubes heads are rated at 6000 w/s
This is still a lot of light, and sometimes half a stop is the difference that makes a good picture (plate..).
Andreas

[williaty]

Thanks for you thoughts Bernice,
I did the experiment again using a standard reflector.
234741
Results are similar; a lamp with"U" shaped flash tubes produces between one third and half a stop less light than a lamp that has "O" shaped tubes.
At 3m and ISO100. an el404 generator together with a 4000 w/s (single "O" shaped) gets me a tad over f/64
At same distance, two el404 with an 8000 w/s (twin "U" shaped) gets me f/64 2/3.
I would have to check with Elinchrome, but I guess that this could be a reason why their latest twin-tubes heads are rated at 6000 w/s
This is still a lot of light, and sometimes half a stop is the difference that makes a good picture (plate..).
Andreas

I always like to clarify results like this because people can write the same information in so many ways that misunderstandings are easy.

You're saying that your bi-tube head, with 8kWs input via 2 packs, produces a 2/3rds increase in light output compared to a mono-tube head fed with 4kWs from a single pack?

I'm a wet plater too and have been considering trying to buy a bi-tube head since I have two of the Zeus 2.5kWs packs now.

[Andreas]

Hi Williaty

I agree that it is not an obvious question. The 8 kw/s head plugged on a single 4 kw/s generator (it doesn't matter if I plug in both or just a single cable) produces less light than an 4 kw/s on the same generator (about a third of an f-stop less). When plugging the 8 kw/s head on two 4 kw/s generators, I only get somewhat over half an f-stop more than a single 4 kw/s head on a single 4 kw/s generator.

I conclude for now that this has to do with the design of the U-shaped tubes versus the O-shaped tubes of Elinchrom heads.

My guess is that If the bi-tube heads you are looking for use the same tubes than single-tube heads, you might in fact get an f-stop more when using two generators.

A powerful single source of light seems to make sense if you use a soft box, but you will lose so much light that it might not be worth it. I would go with multiple heads (direct sources) and use a reflector to open up the shades.

As Bernice wisely writes, there might be differences between and within manufacturers regarding the watt/second ratings of generators / heads and their effective light output.

I went for Elinchrom because these were, together with Broncolor, the de facto standard in studio lighting when I learned the trade back in the 80s in Switzerland. As photo assistants we were expected use them almost blindly (they were blinding and the studios not always well lit..). Some colleagues argued later that Briese rigs were even better, but they just weren't as common in advertising back then.

Wishing you all the best with your strobes and wet plates !

Andreas

[Bernice Loui]

There was a time when color transparency sheet film was extremely common commercial and related image product produced via strobe in studio or outdoors(less often). This in combo with light modifiers ala soft box or Hugo sheet diffuser on a frame or other was extremely commonly used. These extremely common light modifiers are light consumers and why light output from a single flash/strobe head was SO important. Each f-stop was tough battle to gain, even some fraction of an f-stop could be very helpful due to the small exposure apertures required by sheet film. This problem became increasingly difficult as the sheet film size went up.. with 8x10 being one of the most demanding for lighting and why 4x5 was far more often used and common back then. Much had to do with lighting and all related. In Europe, their very rational method of making the image quality trade off -vs- lighting demands -vs- lens capability -vs- cost and ... became the 13x18cm or 5x7 sheet film format. This also happened in Japan.

Back in them days, it was Broncolor or Elinchrom as top tier studio flash/strobe systems, both gain hard earned reputations for quality gear. Back then if the strobe/flash system failed, the studio production work came to a grinding stop which was ticking cost with each minute. This means studio gear must be reliable, durable, consistent and hold up to the daily toil of production work.. if there were problems, there better be prompt and excellent service for the busted gear...

Briese came into the lighting scene later, initially in the cinema industry with their Huge-O parabolic light modifiers and eventually that style of parabolic light modifiers came into still image making.. Today Broncolor makes an excellent alternative to the original Briese parabolic light modifier.. at a price. Briese lighting has a reputation for being problematic, failure prone and not always user friendly..
https://www.brieselichttechnik.de/about-briese/milestones?language=en


Bernice





A powerful single source of light seems to make sense if you use a soft box, but you will lose so much light that it might not be worth it. I would go with multiple heads (direct sources) and use a reflector to open up the shades.

I went for Elinchrom because these were, together with Broncolor, the de facto standard in studio lighting when I learned the trade back in the 80s in Switzerland. As photo assistants we were expected use them almost blindly (they were blinding and the studios not always well lit..). Some colleagues argued later that Briese rigs were even better, but they just weren't as common in advertising back then.

Andreas

[Bob Salomon]

There was a time when color transparency sheet film was extremely common commercial and related image product produced via strobe in studio or outdoors(less often). This in combo with light modifiers ala soft box or Hugo sheet diffuser on a frame or other was extremely commonly used. These extremely common light modifiers are light consumers and why light output from a single flash/strobe head was SO important. Each f-stop was tough battle to gain, even some fraction of an f-stop could be very helpful due to the small exposure apertures required by sheet film. This problem became increasingly difficult as the sheet film size went up.. with 8x10 being one of the most demanding for lighting and why 4x5 was far more often used and common back then. Much had to do with lighting and all related. In Europe, their very rational method of making the image quality trade off -vs- lighting demands -vs- lens capability -vs- cost and ... became the 13x18cm or 5x7 sheet film format. This also happened in Japan.

Back in them days, it was Broncolor or Elinchrom as top tier studio flash/strobe systems, both gain hard earned reputations for quality gear. Back then if the strobe/flash system failed, the studio production work came to a grinding stop which was ticking cost with each minute. This means studio gear must be reliable, durable, consistent and hold up to the daily toil of production work.. if there were problems, there better be prompt and excellent service for the busted gear...

Briese came into the lighting scene later, initially in the cinema industry with their Huge-O parabolic light modifiers and eventually that style of parabolic light modifiers came into still image making.. Today Broncolor makes an excellent alternative to the original Briese parabolic light modifier.. at a price. Briese lighting has a reputation for being problematic, failure prone and not always user friendly..
https://www.brieselichttechnik.de/about-briese/milestones?language=en


Bernice

There was also Multiblitz, Ascor and several others.

[Andreas]

I agree Bernice.

Reliability of the strobes was one thing, standardization was another one. In the photo-advertising environment I was active in, photographers often lent their gear to each other; you could borrow an extra generator from the guy next door or help with a flashtube when his assistant (it was always the assy's fault) had dropped one.

That went not only for strobes, but also cameras. You wanted to be able to get that special lens you didn't have from a colleague, and clients came to assume that a reliable professional photographer always worked with Sinar/Hasselblad/Nikons, while Arca/Mamyia/Canons were actually just as good. When I got my first Rolleiflex SL66 I was laughed at, not because it was bad, but because nobody else was using them in town.

Back in the 80's in Zurich, fashion photographers needed faster strobe time, not more power. Those twin tubes were used in large studios that specialized in furniture sets or cars in 8x10 Ektachrome. One of the them could be flooded with 50cm of water and had an on-location E6 lab that developed film in a vacuum with perfect color consistence.

Equipment choices are an intricate mix of technology, fashion, economy, status statement and pragmatism. Never one of them alone, would I argue.
Best

Andreas


There was a time when color transparency sheet film was extremely common commercial and related image product produced via strobe in studio or outdoors(less often). This in combo with light modifiers ala soft box or Hugo sheet diffuser on a frame or other was extremely commonly used. These extremely common light modifiers are light consumers and why light output from a single flash/strobe head was SO important. Each f-stop was tough battle to gain, even some fraction of an f-stop could be very helpful due to the small exposure apertures required by sheet film. This problem became increasingly difficult as the sheet film size went up.. with 8x10 being one of the most demanding for lighting and why 4x5 was far more often used and common back then. Much had to do with lighting and all related. In Europe, their very rational method of making the image quality trade off -vs- lighting demands -vs- lens capability -vs- cost and ... became the 13x18cm or 5x7 sheet film format. This also happened in Japan.

Back in them days, it was Broncolor or Elinchrom as top tier studio flash/strobe systems, both gain hard earned reputations for quality gear. Back then if the strobe/flash system failed, the studio production work came to a grinding stop which was ticking cost with each minute. This means studio gear must be reliable, durable, consistent and hold up to the daily toil of production work.. if there were problems, there better be prompt and excellent service for the busted gear...

Briese came into the lighting scene later, initially in the cinema industry with their Huge-O parabolic light modifiers and eventually that style of parabolic light modifiers came into still image making.. Today Broncolor makes an excellent alternative to the original Briese parabolic light modifier.. at a price. Briese lighting has a reputation for being problematic, failure prone and not always user friendly..
https://www.brieselichttechnik.de/about-briese/milestones?language=en


Bernice

[Bernice Loui]

Working photographers sharing gear as needed was common here back then too. If there was a project that needed more lighting than one had in studio, it was very common to hop over to your bud's studio to borrow the extra lighting or gear (bonus if the lighting was the same brand). If that was not possible, next stop was the rental place..

There really was a community that shared back then. There was plenty of work for all involved. Photographers starting out could get referrals from photographers that has been at this for many years as they would come across work they did not wanna do or take on.

There was a bulletin board at The New Lab (E6 processing) that was Jumbo sized and packed with notes for all sorts of stuff from looking for work to places to stay to buy-trade-sell, home for a pet and lots more..

All gone now...
Bernice



I agree Bernice.

Reliability of the strobes was one thing, standardization was another one. In the photo-advertising environment I was active in, photographers often lent their gear to each other; you could borrow an extra generator from the guy next door or help with a flashtube when his assistant (it was always the assy's fault) had dropped one.

That went not only for strobes, but also cameras. You wanted to be able to get that special lens you didn't have from a colleague, and clients came to assume that a reliable professional photographer always worked with Sinar/Hasselblad/Nikons, while Arca/Mamyia/Canons were actually just as good. When I got my first Rolleiflex SL66 I was laughed at, not because it was bad, but because nobody else was using them in town.

Back in the 80's in Zurich, fashion photographers needed faster strobe time, not more power. Those twin tubes were used in large studios that specialized in furniture sets or cars in 8x10 Ektachrome. One of the them could be flooded with 50cm of water and had an on-location E6 lab that developed film in a vacuum with perfect color consistence.

Equipment choices are an intricate mix of technology, fashion, economy, status statement and pragmatism. Never one of them alone, would I argue.
Best

Andreas

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52668300052_4d35cea812_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2of7NEQ)My New to Me Broncolor Primo 3200 J (https://flic.kr/p/2of7NEQ) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I have been watching the Broncolor Primo 4 3000 Joule Heads go, finally got -this one- with a Good Looking Flashtube. I'm ordering a Pyrex Dome with UV Coating. I can use this flash head on my two Primo 4 Packs, each puts out 3000 Joules in one POP into one head, so that is great for me with slow emulsions.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52736828633_ed48f60b98_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2omb2Q6)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2omb2Q6) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

New to Me Broncolor Primo 4 3200 Joules came without Pyrex cover. Ordered one new from Peartree Photo in UK. Flashtube Cover required since head is fan cooled. All together a little over $400, the heads and modifiers are what make big strobe outfits expensive. And I am trying to do this on a budget. World's finest equipment at a good discount.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52738471429_1e443ce8bf_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2omjsba)New to Me Broncolor Pulso 4 Flash Head (https://flic.kr/p/2omjsba) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I offered 340 British Pounds for this Broncolor Pulso 4 3000J Flash Head, and it's now mine. Needs a Pyrex Dome, MPEX stocks them $129 so I'm planning to pick up a few more for future. Also I picked up two 3000J Pulso 4 Flashtubes from China, so now I'm thinking of building two more Pulso 4's from pieces/parts. A good way to save money and complete the outfit. These Pulso Heads were their top of their line, $1299 each back in the day. All my Broncolor Heads fit all of my Broncolor Power Packs, which is a very good thing. One of these heads through my Octobox150 with Extra Diffusion, gives me F32 with slow film. And everything runs off of 120V. Also I've stocked up on 120V 300W Modeling Bulbs, $8.99 on Amazon, the European ones are 220V 650W, can't use those but easy to exchange.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52770027721_c2aa93982e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2op7bLa)Second Broncolor C200 coming my way 1500J (https://flic.kr/p/2op7bLa) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Coming my way, a second Broncolor C200 1500J Monolight. I have one and I've been using it with my 150 Broncolor Octobox. Like it so much I bought this one for about $350 with UK shipping. Well worth it cause it was $2500 when new. This one look lightly used so it'll go right into service. BTW the flashtube is worth $350. 1500 w/s rating so plenty of light for F32 or F45 with larger formats in one pop. Also Monolights put out more light than pack systems, the cables used with packs drops yer light output, versus the brighter (no cables) Monolight. So a powerhouse cheaply acquired

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52770556368_d3863bb6e6.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2op9TUL)New to Me Broncolor Universal Pulso Fresnel 1500J (https://flic.kr/p/2op9TUL) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Also New to Me Broncolor Pulso Universal 1500J Fresnel Spotlight, in beautiful condition. A Good addition to my Broncolor lighting kit. 99 Pounds plus UK shipping, from the same Guy with the C200. BTW I have a black FOBA 1000W Fresnel Tungsten Spotlight identical to this Blue Universal one, has a 1000W 220V bulb.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52769563117_8fdd840b51_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2op4NDK)Two More Broncolor Pulso 4 Lamphouses (https://flic.kr/p/2op4NDK) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Two more Broncolor Pulso 4 Lampheads 200 Euros each, in good condition. Have brand new Pulso 4 Flashtubes to install, along with new 120V 300W Pulso Modeling Bulbs from Amazon. This completes my Pulso 4 Powerpack purchase, giving me four Broncolor 3000J Heads, two 3000J Primo Power Packs, two 1500J Primo Power Packs, and a 1500J Pulso 2 Pack. It all runs off 120V and gives me plenty of strobe light. And picked up for reasonable total costs

[Daniel Unkefer]

The Primo and Pulso heads take the same two-pin 300W 120V halogen JCD modeling lights. Some of my Primo heads take the screw-in 300W 120V bulbs, so I stocked up on both kinds. And ran down the fuses as well, every time the bulb blows, you also need to put in a new fuse. Kevin at KHB advises regarding fast blow/slow blow fuses, the slow blow type is fine. You can also use the fast blow, but more likely to trip more quickly. Amazon has bulbs and fuses, they are a good source. Everything is coming together nicely. B&H still stocks the Ushio JCD's as well for a good price.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52816418487_3ab55b9a3b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2otcX7X)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2otcX7X) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

On the left a black FOBA Spot Light from Germany, came with 220V 1000 Watt Projector Bulb. I want to re-wire it to 120V, maybe re-use the original bulb, it has a European bulb socket. Maybe I can do that? On the right, an original Brocolor blue Universal Pulso Optical Spotlight, with modeling lamp takes 120V 300 Watt projection bulb. Unusual flash tube makes unique spotlit lighting effects. Interestingly this one has a frosted fresnel front condenser lens, while the black FOBA has a clear condenser fresnel front. Will be interesting to compare after I get the FOBA re-lamped. Ideas are welcomed regarding this voltage modification.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52843111605_5a5a72fa16_n.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ovyL48)2nd Universal Broncolor Pulso Fresnel FOBA Spotlight 1600J (https://flic.kr/p/2ovyL48) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Yet another Broncolor Universal Pulso Fresnel Spotlight has appeared and for the price I snapped it up. So now I have two identical 1600 Joule Spotlight, takes the same modeling lamp as my Primo and some Pulso Heads. So now I have plenty of spare fuses correct amps, tungsten modeling bulbs from China and also from the Philippines. This bulb also fits some retro disco balls LOL. BTW a 150mm Componon will prolly work good mounted in front (with no fresnel). Mount some flags on the even more front, and you've got a versatile light modifier with precision adjustments. Will look forward to trying this.

These are olde lights but work very well with every pack 1500WS or less. And they work very well! Actually this unit went from FOBA (I have the 1000W Incandescent spot FOBA in black), they painted 'em in Broncolor blue and added fuse protection.

So now I can do more complex multiple spotlight lighting setups.

[Tin Can]

I converted a couple overhead stage lamps with moveable Fresnel

10 years ago

never use them

I do admire your dedication

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52889838265_0e035085f7_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ozGfgc)Adox Ortho PL25 5x7 Norma MicX 360 Apo Ronar (https://flic.kr/p/2ozGfgc) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

5x7 Sinar Norma #2 360mm F9 Rodenstock Apo Ronar barrel at F11 Adox 5x7 Ortho PL25 Yellow filter Broncolor C200 1500WS Monolight popped eight times into Broncolor Octobox 150 with supplemental diffusion. 4x6 foot foamcore fill right just out of the frame. Legacy Mic-X straight replenished mixed in 2019. 5x7 Contact Print on Arista RC #2 Dektol 1:2 . I shot one frame at four pops, and one at eight pops. The denser neg looks better to me. Canvas background is "Tim Kelly Gold Plaster" painted for me by Artist David Maheu. This is EXACTLY why I NEED big strobes for large format. Shooting at EI 12.

[wclark5179]

Very nice.

Good job.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Thanks Bill!

Good to hear from you again :)

[Mal Paso]

I had to stop looking as there are too many fantastic deals. I'm into Norman and found complete 2KW, 2 head sets with a large assortment of modifiers for as little as $180 delivered. I'm up to 15KW, 5KW radio controlled 10KW on optical slave. I shoot digital at iso 64 and could do wet plate or very large interiors balanced to daylight. About 20% is in permanent setups. If I want to illustrate something, I just have to turn on a power pack. The rest is in totes ready to go.

[NormaN]

Hello all

I have now also taken the plunge and purchased a used Broncolor flash unit, consisting of:

1 x Grafit A4 / 3200 J generator

1 x Pulso F4 3200 J and 1 x Pulso F2 1600 J flash lamp

As well as various accessories such as umbrella, reflector, light tripod etc.

Maybe someone of you can answer the following detail question:

The Pulso F flash lights have a metal spigot with a diameter of about 18 mm.

What would be the counterpart to this on a light stand? How can I use this metal spigot directly without a transition piece or thread?
For example On the Manfrotto Heavy Duty tripod, there are 2 receptacles:

One with a diameter of about 16 mm and one with about 30 mm.
The Pulso spigot is too small in diameter for the 30 mm opening....

Thank you for your support / ideas

239101

[Daniel Unkefer]

Hi NormaN,

I am not familar with the Grafit pack, but I know it is an uber fine professional unit and will serve you well. I am familiar with Pulso 2 and Pulso 4 heads, and have a few of each. The Pulso Heads were their top of the line units at one time.

Regarding your Pulso head mounting issues, I can tell you this. Your first picture looks to me like the upper part of a very large Manfrotto light stand. You will need the proper Manfrotto pieces to ADAPT the Pulso unit to your Manfrotto stand. In your second picture you have the Broncolor mounting post necessary to fit the Pulso mechanism, which clamps the head tightly down after adjusting it. I have some Broncolor Light Stands that have that same Broncolor mounting post, to which you can directly mount the Pulso Flash Heads.

So you will need whatever Manfrotto pieces will adapt your Broncolor Heads, to what looks to me like the upper part of a massive Manfrotto Stand. Where are you located, B&H in New York City has a complete line of Manfrotto parts, and can advise you what to purchase to cobble together what you have. The post piece you have look to me like made by Broncolor, you need the proper adapter to fit your specific stand.

I hope this helps you :) You have acquired acquired some of the world's finest lighting equipment! Congrats!

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?pn=2&q=manfrotto%20stand%20adapter

If you search here, you can probably figure out which parts you need to complete your Manfrotto Stands. That is a massive light stand! :)

You might be missing one of the poles that go into the top of the light stand. Not sure what to say about that.

[Mal Paso]

Hello all

I have now also taken the plunge and purchased a used Broncolor flash unit, consisting of:

1 x Grafit A4 / 3200 J generator

1 x Pulso F4 3200 J and 1 x Pulso F2 1600 J flash lamp

As well as various accessories such as umbrella, reflector, light tripod etc.

Maybe someone of you can answer the following detail question:

The Pulso F flash lights have a metal spigot with a diameter of about 18 mm.

What would be the counterpart to this on a light stand? How can I use this metal spigot directly without a transition piece or thread?
For example On the Manfrotto Heavy Duty tripod, there are 2 receptacles:

One with a diameter of about 16 mm and one with about 30 mm.
The Pulso spigot is too small in diameter for the 30 mm opening....

Thank you for your support / ideas

239101

The smaller hole in the first picture should have a 5/8 inch Spud in it that slides up and locks with the t handle screw. If that spud is missing you can buy a 5/8" spud from B&H and others. 5/8" is a standard size on most Light Stands and boom arms and is just a bit smaller than 18mm.

[NormaN]

Hello Daniel and Mal Paso

Thank you very much for your comments.
I am in Zurich, Switzerland (Broncolor Land :-) ).

I already have 2 light stands with the baby spigots and thread. I just need to screw the strobes on a 3/8 thread (which I don't like so much). The example photo I posted is of a Manfrotto tripod. I initially thought it would be more suitable. I have now learned that the large opening is for a "junior spigot". Did not buy the tripods now.

I think I will use a "Manfrotto 016 Broncolor adapter":

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546486-REG/Manfrotto_016_016_Broncolor_Adapter.html

About the Broncolor "Grafit": I think this is the predecessor model of the current "Scoro"
The unit has about 11'000 flashes on the counter. It was produced somewhere between 1996 and 2012

I am curious about the first tests. I hope the 3200J will be enough for 8x10....

Unfortunately I don't have a studio but have to set up the system in the living room and probably have to darken the windows.

239131

[Mal Paso]

4,000 Watts at iso 64 is about f16 using softboxes on a 3x3x3 meter set. More efficient modifiers can stretch that.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Inky Dinky strobes are golden for close range photography. Here's another example. I dragged this Broncolor C171 Monolight 375J, out of the basement of MPEX, cost me Forty Bucks back then. Has served me well for decades.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52279569027_09c3663ae3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nDLstM)Shell Sweep Table Makina IIIR PanF D23 1to1 (https://flic.kr/p/2nDLstM) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Shell FOBA Sweep Table Broncolor C171 375J olde Broncolor Beauty Light Plaubel Makina IIIR with 100mm F4.2 Orthometar. The sharp, not soft (uber rare) Makina lens. Yellow Makina Filter. PanF+ in Makina 6x9cm 120 back D23 1:1. 8x10 Arista RC #2 Dektol 1:2 Omega DII laser aligned 180mm black Rodagon. Handheld

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51964593864_e4d2d244bc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2naW8kw)18x24 Sinar Norma 300 Xenar F4.5 Rembrandt Lighting (https://flic.kr/p/2naW8kw) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

The cool thing about having multiple Normas, is that you can leave them set up for a while. Getting ready to shoot this one. Classic Rembrandt Lighting, Broncolor Beauty Light pointed straight down from up high as possible. Silver reflector on the floor tilted towards the subject. Lens is 300mm chrome Schneider Xenar, on custom made Norma board. Xenars are lovely to shoot through at near full aperture. The focus blows out behind the front row of petals which I find attractive. Strobe meter says F22 at EI 50 so just one pop will do. Canvas Background is by David Maheu "Kelly Grey" Like it Stormy Grey middle key with no corner vignettes. I can vignette with light if required

[Daniel Unkefer]

Broncolor discontinued product manuals. Broncolor is wonderful for software and product support. And education as well. See here:

https://broncolor.swiss/discontinued-products-manuals

[NormaN]

Broncolor discontinued product manuals. Broncolor is wonderful for software and product support. And education as well. See here:

https://broncolor.swiss/discontinued-products-manuals



Great, thank you Daniel !

[NormaN]

Hello everyone

I have now found time to take my very first shots with strobe light.
An antique stone bust has proven to be ideal because patient.

The setup:

Main light: From the top right about 45° a screen (white coated) at a distance of about 1.5 m
Strobe light Pulso 3200 J

Fill light: A small softbox (approx. 30x60 cm) at a distance of approx. 0.6 m from the left approx. 45°
Strobe light Pulso 1200 J

Camera: Eastman Commercial 8x10

Lens: Rodenstock Sironar 5.6/300

I took a total of 4 shots with 1/125 and measured the following values with the Sekonic:

f 22.0: Main 246 J (6.3) / Fill 30 J (3.3) / t= 1/810, Total Power: 6.5
f 32.3: Main xxx J (7.6) / Fill xxx J (3.3) t= ? , total power: 7.7
f 38.2: 800 J (8.0) Main / 100 J (5.0) Fill t= 1/405, Total Power: 8.2
f 45.2: Main 1054 J (8.4) / Fill 132 J (5.4) t= 1/325, total power: x.x

The Ilford HP5 8x10 negatives were exposed at half box speed, developed in ID11 (20% shorter development) distance lens to bust 70 cm, resulting in a scale of 1:1.33 and an extension factor of 3.0

Everything worked great:
- The Sekonic 756 connected to the Grafit A4 with a cable always triggered
- The shutter has always released correctly via the radio transmitter to the receiver
- BUT: Out of sheer delight with the lightning equipment, I forgot to calculate the extension factor of 3….So the pictures are 3 stops underexposed (resp. since I took the picture with half box speed, 2 stops underexposed?

Does this mean that I would have to at least reach a flash line with f 64 to get a f 22?


239348
239349

[Daniel Unkefer]

Great start NormaN :)

Yes, two or three stops under you would need f45 or f64 on the meter, assuming only one POP. This is why large format requires a lot of strobe power! If subject is not moving, you can do multiple POPS, as I have done above.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Also, if you find you need MORE light, consider getting another pack 1600 Joules. You could use that with your fill light, full power with your Pulso 2 Head. Then use the Pulso 4 head at full power 3000 Joules, and you will be maxed out in terms of heads/packs. One stop difference between main and fill.

Just sayin'. 1600J packs can be pretty reasonable. I bought two Primo 2 and one Pulso 2 Fifty US Dollars each

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045461341_3b3ba666bf_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oPrRzF)Makiflex 4x5 Shanghai Octobox 150 F16 D23 (https://flic.kr/p/2oPrRzF) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

9x9cm image 9x12cm film Plaubel Makiflex F16. 4x5 Shanghai 100 film with YG filter D23 1:1 Unidrum Uniroller Omega DII laser aligned 150mm black Rodagon at F16 Arista RC #2 8x10 Dektol 1:2 Testing the new to me Broncolor Octobox 150, beautiful light like movable window lighting. Supplemental Octobox 150 Diffuser added. Notice the attractive catchlight in the glass vase. I bought a couple of C200 Monolights, about $200 each, one from the UK. These are rated by Broncolor at 1600 Joules, no cord means about a stop brighter than a cabled pack system, These C200's are highly recommended for large format shooting! They are great and take the same Pulso Acessories as the bigger pack system. When you need F16 when the light is backed up, you need about 1500J to do it in one pop.

BTW this strobe was over $2000 new, a great deal used at $200. A powerhouse commercial grade monolight.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53157778573_c5c24b05b0_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2oZnvzF)CFV16 ELM 80 T Star Pulso Beauty Light HoneyGrids 10 deg 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2oZnvzF) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Here I am playing around with my new to me Digital CFV16 Hasselblad Back on my motorized EL/M Body, with 80mm Planar at minimum focus distance. Got a Pulso Beauty Light with a HoneyGrids Ten Degree Grid Attachment straight down. A mirror just off camera left to add some kicker light. Love shooting digitally with the EL/M it's very fluid and user friendly in every way so far. Printed out the instruction book it covers a lot. Loving that the CFV16 Back works so well with my Big Broncolor Lights. The Pulso Beauty just arrived, all the way from Australia.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272291017162

The HoneyGrids are great Broncolor Compatible Grids, some stuff not available from Broncolor. Prices good and quality excellent

I have a C200 pointed straight down, mounted to overhead floor joists, FOBA parts utilized, heavy duty mounted. Very versatile and I can raise and lower the flash to get it exactly where I want it. Bought a lot of Manfrotto Grip Parts from Gary at World of Used Photography. Now I can set up some more complex shots with ease. And a lot of new stuff from SETSHOP in NYC. Plenty to keep busy with when it gets cold around here

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52845619413_e3c482291a_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ovMBxc)Shell Peco Jr 180mm f5.6 Fuji GX680 PanF+ D23 (https://flic.kr/p/2ovMBxc) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Plaubel Peco Junior 180mm F5.6 Fuji GX680 Ilford PanF+ Plaubel Makina Film Back D23 1:1 JOBO Multitank6 Etone Tank Roller Omega DII 180mm black Rodagon laser aligned Arista #2 RC Dektol 1:2. Broncolor C200 Monolight Broncolor Octobox 150 Foamcore Fill Panel. Tim Layton digital background (printed at Sam's Club) on FOBA Sweep Table. Used a lot of camera movements to get the tines sharp as was possible.

https://broncolor.swiss/products/octabox-150-cm-4-9?variant=3423

I'm so happy and pleased with my Octobox 150. I leave it set up with a C200 Monolight 1500J gives F22 and light's the entire set interior. Love it :)
$2500 Strobe World's Finest for $275 including UK shipping. Like it so much I bought a second one! It's suspended over my Sweep Table. Bought the Octobox for $249 Used from Adorama in perfect condition.

[Mal Paso]

I have a 4' Softbox on a boom that I leave permanently parked against the ceiling. It's so handy to pull down and adjust if I want to do a quick illustration. I started with a monolight but the power pack driven heads are so much lighter I can extend the boom another 15 inches. Now the softbox has a 2400WS head into a Norman 2424 power pack. The 2424 has 3 banks which can be combined, it has built in optical trigger and I added a radio trigger. Nicest full power strobe I've ever had. I think I paid $165 for the 2424 power pack. New packs are over $3600. I went back and checked 9 months later, all the equipment I didn't buy is still for sale. There is literally no market for older studio strobe equipment but I'm happy with what I've been able to acquire. I shot some 4x5 yesterday, will post after I process.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Malpaso,

Thanks for contributing! Big strobes DO have a place, I'm playing the field.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53238835453_928a30c741_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2p7wWY6)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2p7wWY6) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Need help with these Visatec/Broncolor Impact IMPASPOT stuff you see here. I have two Impaspots, clean and working good. Have a frosted Bulb for the Visatec 1600B 600J Monolight, have one coming. 600J power $199 price, and it fits all my Impact stuff, which I've been using for thirty years. Also have the CONIC SNOOT which works good with a grid on the end of it. The screen printed MASKS in three sizes, I would like to replicate, and make more in different sizes and patterns. I think they also made something for the front of this? I remember an Associate doing a LOT of Yearbook Photography back in the eighties with one of these. He treated his with Kid Gloves I remember. Also was using their COMPULS Monolights back then. Good Stuff. What else do I need to Max it out??? I've seen it used for Digital Hasselblad Beer Photography. Same units I have here.

I'm going to start a thread in WTB Forum. Need a couple of frosted Broncolor Impact 21/Impact 41 Glass Protective Domes. Need those to work with the Impaspots if anybody here can help.

[Mal Paso]

Nokton48,
I almost bought a Norman Tri-lite optical spot but I was in shock. Just one more thing had me up to 15,800 WS from up to 15 heads. Everything was less than 10 cents on a dollar, sometimes a lot less. I'm kicking myself now, I think it went for $140 with an image quality lens.

Broncolor is much more stylish. Norman is a working mans strobe. LOL Late '70s I started buying Norman and was quickly up to 4,000 WS, 5 heads and a truckload of modifiers. Lost that in 2016 and overshot the mark a bit buying back in.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53255288866_786b753e18_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2p8ZgZC)Broncolor Impaspot Impact 41 CFV16 60 Dist (https://flic.kr/p/2p8ZgZC) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Rebuilding an Olde Broncolor Impaspot; in fact I have two of them. And now a Visatec (Broncolor Wedding and Portrait Division) 1600B Monolight 1600J strobe. Hasselblad 500C/M 60mm F3.5 Zeiss Distagon C T* CFV16 Digital Back. An olde crusty Acetate Mask needs to be reprinted and made clean. But the effect of this olde mask is kind of cool IMO. Olde Broncolor strobe spotlights are fun to play with :)

Here I am firing a Impaspot (with Acetate Mask Gobo), at a very large sheet of 1/4" Plexiglass that came with my Broncolor Hazy Light, Now the plex is vertical on my FOBA Sweep Table. Kinda KEWL how the Impaspot illuminates the flecks in the plex LOL :) Love those Imacon Fat Pixels.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Wanted: 17-2017 Broncolor Mat Protection Dome Impact 21/41

The Frosted Dome for the Broncolor Impact 21 and Impact 41 Monolight Strobe.

Could use a few! They are breakable. Drat.

Thanks,
Daniel

[Tin Can]

Did you post in WTB?



Wanted: 17-2017 Broncolor Mat Protection Dome Impact 21/41

The Frosted Dome for the Broncolor Impact 21 and Impact 41 Monolight Strobe.

Could use a few! They are breakable. Drat.

Thanks,
Daniel

[Daniel Unkefer]

Yes I did. Thanks :)

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53276071767_285a69720f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2paPN2v)New to Me Studio Monolights 600J Broncolor (https://flic.kr/p/2paPN2v) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Added a few new to me Broncolor 600J Monolights. Continuous power level up/down, Very powerful up close. Takes my Olde Impact 21's and 41's up a notch in power (Joules) and continuous power adjustment. Takes my 30+ collection of Impact light modifiers, same bayonet mount. The ImpaSpot is now fully functional, still needs some tweaks. The Conic Snoot was a gift I got from another Broncolor User, he passed on to me a box full of stuff. These are tough portable Impact units on steroids. Quite Useful for closer-in shooting. The S80 Impact was $1490 new, I paid $125. The Visatec 1600B Impact was $150. Both great deals for the money. Useful for large and medium format. I saw the Impact Frosted Dome online at a shoppe in Finland, and ordered it. Then I found out it was Impact all right, but for the more powerful S80 600J. So upgrading was a no brainer and now performing as it should. These are heavy duty units meant to last at about 10% of original cost. Lots of value for the money. The last Impact 41 I found cost me $12 and performs perfectly. 375J is plenty up close for medium format and 4x5/9x12cm.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53283223211_d1184236dc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pbsrUg)Colortran Zoom Eclipse Primo 2 Head 1600J Optical Spotlight CLA'ed (https://flic.kr/p/2pbsrUg) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Decades ago I received this Colortran Zoom Eclipse along with a large bundle of Broncolor stuff. It came to me with a 6000J Head attached. Put it away for a good while, imagining someday I will clean it out and start using it. Today I disassembled it, vacuumed heavily inside and out, and sprayed and wiped off the condensers. I cobbled together a modern Broncolor Pulso to olde Universal Adapter, using stuff from the parts box, not buying anything extra. A fairly new to me Broncolor Primo 2 1600J head is lightweight and fan cooled. In addition. the unit has an Archer Fan up top, wired with long heavy duty cord. I think this will be sufficient cooling, we will see. It has a set of vignettes all four sides, and a built-in iris to adjust the size of the projected circle. I put a Frosted Dome on the Primo 2 head, need some GOBOS now, I'm considering ordering a set of metal ones. This was worth fixing up and will takes different Pulso/Primo Mount Heads, so very versatile.

I found a set of four Colortran Gobo Holders, they are on the way. Next I will order a set of metal Gobos for this, they laser burn out your patterns of choice. I would like to utilize a range of patterns for versatile strobe spotlighting.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53292581105_8c4ba31b27_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pchpFg)Colortran Gobo Set (https://flic.kr/p/2pchpFg) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

These should fit my newly rebuilt Colortran Zoom Eclipse Spotlight with Broncolor 1600J Head. Now I will buy some laser cut metal gobos. Maybe a dozen or so.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53289427867_ff3b57267f_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pc1fk6)500CM 135 f5.6 S Planar C TStar Polaroid Hazylight (https://flic.kr/p/2pc1fk6) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Hasselblad 500C/M 135mm F5.6 C T* S-Planar Bellows Lens. Fuji Instant B&W Film. Broncolor 606 Hazylight 6000J, Modeling Light Only 1000 Watts Tungsten. Hazylight is beautiful light. The National Service Manager at Broncolor (Larry-what a great Guy, so friendly and helpful), told me those two 606 Broncolor 6000J 220V Packs, were worth North of 100K US $ -EACH- in today's money. He was flabbergasted somewhat, but kindly agreed at the time to help me get them going. Also, I had the help of two friends, both Electrical Engineers. A third friend worked in a local factory that made giant electrolytic capacitors for Industry. Those 606's moved some air when they popped! VERY loud. In my smaller studio the Octobox 150 has replaced my Hazylight, now in storage. Smaller studio footprint.

Larry called the 606 "The Iron Horse", their nickname at Broncolor for it. Every big studio had one back in the corner, in the day, according to Larry.

[dxp]

Hi Daniel,

Long time lurker here who's just joined. I've been following this thread for a little while now though, and enjoying reading about the assorted lights and modifiers as you've been finding them.

I have a question for you though; the blue support arm on that impact S80, does it have some kind of rubber washer as part of the tightening mechanism, somewhere between the flash housing and the clamping knob? If so, have you had to replace it by chance? I recently acquired several Bron compuls lights (95 and 165 models), and the washers in their respective mechanisms have all pretty much disintegrated, and finding info online to help mw source/fabricate some replacements is proving elusive.

Thank in advance for any info you might have!

d.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Hi Daniel,

Long time lurker here who's just joined. I've been following this thread for a little while now though, and enjoying reading about the assorted lights and modifiers as you've been finding them.

I have a question for you though; the blue support arm on that impact S80, does it have some kind of rubber washer as part of the tightening mechanism, somewhere between the flash housing and the clamping knob? If so, have you had to replace it by chance? I recently acquired several Bron compuls lights (95 and 165 models), and the washers in their respective mechanisms have all pretty much disintegrated, and finding info online to help mw source/fabricate some replacements is proving elusive. I can tell you that the S40 and S80 Washers are interchangeable with Olde Impact 21/41 ones.

Thank in advance for any info you might have!

d.

Hi dxp,

Yes just this week I encountered exactly that same issue with a new to me S40 bought cheaply like $100. It's a $1295 Monolight like a 21/41 but with continuous adjustable power levels, and few other nice bells and whistles. Anyway YES the head was flopping around on the stand, unscrewing it the silicone-like pink "washer" was fractured all the way around. So, I went to my "Impact" parts box, I had three of those blue columns. One had a pink washer on it in great condition, so I swapped it out. Never throw any of this stuff completely away, strip it apart, and throw everything that comes off in the parts box.

I'd check with Broncolor, but I kinda doubt it but who knows? Larry found a 404 power cord for me, the last in the world according to him. We both laughed. Look for Broncolor junk you can cannibalize. I think I tried brake lining from the auto store, I don't remember that working.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53351124891_d58f48bc40_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2phssGT)Impact Blue Monolight Support (https://flic.kr/p/2phssGT) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I found the silicone? washer I needed in my Broncolor Impact parts box. Never throw anything away. Wish I had some more of these. Have used Impacts for 30+ years sometimes heavy use. Had one make a stinky smell when plugged in, it was cannibalized for parts.

[dxp]

244146

From the four Compuls lights, these are the two "surviving" washers. But touch them and they flake apart, so they're as good as dead unfortunately.

Seeing as yours is in good condition, any chance you're able to run a set of callipers over it and determine the size? It's challenging to get an accurate reading on mine—somewhere around 68-70mm OD and ~35mm ID, and approaching 2mm thick, though I trust that measurement the least due to the dried out condition.

Actually, one of my Compuls 165s smoked a capacitor (with a bang!) about 10 minutes after startup on the day I acquired it, so my Bron spare parts box got a bit of an early kickstart, unfortunately. I picked up 3x units from the same seller for 50€ each (without flash tubes) and was already planning on designating one purely as a spares donor, so it was really just the decision on which one that would be that was made for me. Meanwhile the other two are on a capacitor re-form cycle as a precaution, but so far aren't showing any issues.

d.

[Daniel Unkefer]

dxp,

From Impact 21/41

51mm Outside Diameter 25.0mm Inside Diameter .8mm Thickness

Looks like the Compuls is scaled up somewhat in size.

Good Luck with your project! I'd make a paper pattern first then transfer it.

In the past I have used a large pair of adjustable pliers, to tighten the blue knobs down on my Impacts. Whatever works!!

[dxp]

Thank you kindly for checking...at least I now know not to go salvaging from Impact models for a spare. Good idea about the paper pattern!

The previous owner of my Compuls 95 had substituted a square piece of corrugated cardboard for the washer, and tightened down it was still very solid, so that's another (inelegant) solution.

d.

[grantflanagan]

This thread and a few others online have really inspired me these last few months (plus I've been out of work with the SAG strike) to achieve a long-time goal of owning an Ascor SunLight system. In September I drove up to Boston from my home in Brooklyn and met a wonderful photographer named Ed Braverman who graciously gifted me a complete 800 series kit along with a 900 series stroboscopic unit.
The 800 unit, with daisy-chain condensers, allows for up to 38,800 w/s with the correct flashtubes. My kit has six condensers, so I'm topped out at 4,800w/s now, with each condenser collating 800 w/s. Unfortunately the power module burned up and I'm on the hunt now for a new one. I've also got a ton of paperwork and bits and pieces I've scrounged on ebay and the dregs of old stores in the New York area. I hope to share some work soon once I'm back up and running.
A few years ago I bought a ton of IT-N internegative film here on LFPF and I'm excited to use this beast to produce some studio portraiture on the IT-N (rating at 1.5ISO). As always, this forum is a great wealth of knowledge and I hope everyone has fun with strobes and large format.

244476

[Daniel Unkefer]

WOW. Thanks grantflanagan for your contribution. Now that is a powerhouse. I seem to remember that Irving Penn had an Ascor Sunlight system.

Very cool! Double WOW.

[grantflanagan]

Hi Dan,

Yes, Penn had a set with 12 or more condensers, as did Diane and Allan Arbus when they were still married and shooting commercial work. I have a promotional brochure from Ascor that lists about 200 prominent photographers who had the system circa 1954. It's in the pile to scan soon!

Here is a promo photo, I think originally distributed by GE, showing the size of the FT-617 (or 603), rated for 40,000 w/s. The original usage for the system was aerial night surveillance during the second world war.
244526

[Daniel Unkefer]

I also remember Sports Illustrated used Ascor Sunlights to light up stadiums and events. Triple WOW. Just be careful!

[dxp]

I also remember Sports Illustrated used Ascor Sunlights to light up stadiums and events.

"I read it for the lighting setups!"

[dxp]

A new addition to my lighting kit: a nano 2 generator, in excellent used condition. It's small, it's light, it has respectable flash duration and recycling speeds, and it only cost me 260€.
I already have it's slightly larger sibling, the nano A4, and they'll make a great little pair in my small studio, and out on location as well.
I only wish it had radio triggering built in, just to streamline things a bit in my digital workflow. I had been looking at a senso A2 setup, but they're quite expensive in comparison still, and have very slow flash durations, which could matter with some of the shooting I do.
So the nanos it is for now!
—
244594

[Daniel Unkefer]

dxp,
Looks good! I decided on the older Primo and Pulso Packs but I've not be disappointed so far. Just scored two more Primo 2 1600J heads. My take on this is if you are patient stuff comes along at great prices.

[dxp]

I do like the look of Bron's older packs and heads and have no doubt of their reliability, but these smaller nano generators are great for my limited space or to take on location easily, and can still output plenty of joules.

I have an Opus A4 generator that came with the initial Bron bundle I purchased earlier this year. I wasn't going to hold on to it, but they sell for so little money I figured it's worth keeping purely as a backup, or if I ever need 3200J blasting out of a single head.

I agree with you about waiting it out for great prices—below is one of two minipuls C80 monos I scored in a kit last week, for not much coin. They're quite nicely built, and very tactile to operate.
—
244920

[Daniel Unkefer]

Yeah the Minipuls take "Pulso" top line of modifiers and accessories, for maximum versatility. And if you wait as you say, the world's finest for little coin. My two Primo 1600J heads arrived clean as new and working perfectly, for $200 each. Cheaper than buying new flashtubes, for the whole unit. So that gives me five 1600J Primo heads with good tubes. Well worth it to me to wait and save. Some say the Primos are more tactile and easier to place where you want them, than the Pulso Heads.

With digital you are in a different boat, so the the microprocessor controlled, more modern packs (with shorter flash discharge times) are fantastic. I need the POWER for the larger format film which is my forte. Kevin at KHB repairs strobes, he said don't go for microprocessor controls for analog shooting. The reason being, microprocessors GO POOF, he suggested getting the most modern packs, that are not microprocessor controlled. My Primo and Pulso Packs have LED controls, very unlikely to POOF in the immediate future.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53413310307_27fddc5023_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pnXbge)New to Me Broncolor FM Flash Meter (https://flic.kr/p/2pnXbge) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I use the Broncolor FM Flash Meter constantly. Now this one came up on auction for Twenty Bucks. Now this meter was $499 when it was new, it integrates with my Broncolor Flash Packs and Monolights. Very friendly, thought I should pounce on it as a backup unit. So Merry Christmas to me.

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS ALL.

Let's hear more stories about beeg lighting! Geoff Berliner at Penumbra in NYC told me he uses a 5000J Speedo in their tintype studio. That will move some air.

[Daniel Unkefer]

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS!


Here's a nice Christmas Beer for you. Rob Grimm photographing Beer with Broncolor. Notice the Visatec with Impaspots, lots of Gaffer Tape, looks like black matte board to further Gobo the light. Only lights the label of the bottle, he has two Impaspots, which I will have when I get another cheapo Visatec 1600B. 600J plenty of light highly refined. From their Wedding/Portrait division Visatec. Good Stuff.

https://tw.voicetube.com/videos/6898

A master at work. Enjoy. "The Shakespeare of Beers"

[dxp]

Can you clarify the accessory mount specifics there. Impaspot has the impact mount, right? Does that fit the Visatec 1600B?

And a Merry Christmas to you as well! :)

[Daniel Unkefer]

dxp,

Yes the Impaspot is in the Broncolor Impact 21/41/S40/S80 mount, which also fits the Visatec 1600B. As far as I know, you need the Impaspot unit, and the frosted protecting dome for the 1600B. It also fits my Broncolor Impact S80 monolight. I have the frosted protecting dome for the Impact S80, I have not been able to find the frosted dome for the Visatec so far. But I would like to find a couple of frosted ones so I have a spare!

They also make a GOBO set, GOBO Holder, and a mask set for the Impaspot. Just One type of clear flashtube (I think). Can anybody verify that please? So I'd like to find these items too. Any other tips for Impaspot use would be appreciated!

[dxp]

What is the mount on the accessory Visatec 1600B specified as? I have a Visatec Logos 800 that accepts Pulso mount accessories, so I assumed it's considered a Pulso mount, but with the different flash tube and glass dome of this lineup.

Or does that make it an Impact mount because of the smaller dome and tube, with that being the defining trait, and the the bayonet is the same? I've never used or handled any of the Bron Impact gear, so have never been able to compare the two lineups to understand the difference.

[Daniel Unkefer]

My Visatec 1600B takes all the Broncolor Impact light modifiers that I own. It is compatible with Impact. I also have Pulso light modifiers, they are a larger mount size than Impact ones.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53276071767_8ca04c2aa4_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2paPN2v)New to Me Studio Monolights 600J Broncolor (https://flic.kr/p/2paPN2v) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Both the Impact S80 on the left, and the Visatec 1600B on the right, take Impact accessories.

See Here:

https://www.spectratech.gr/Web/Visatec/pdf/56-200-00.pdf

[dxp]

My Visatec 1600B takes all the Broncolor Impact light modifiers that I own. It is compatible with Impact. I also have Pulso light modifiers, they are a larger mount size than Impact ones.

The Pulso modifiers will still mount onto the Visatec 1600B though, right? The bayonet fitting is physically the same, it's just the internal diameter of the Pulso accessories is larger than that of an Impact one, to accomodate the larger diameter glass dome. But an Impact modifier won't work on a Pulso head/mono, because it can't clear the dome?

Or am I misunderstanding something?

Thank you for linking the PDF—that's a useful reference.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53422524954_85bd91e2ac_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2poLpss)Pulso VS Impact Standard Reflectors (https://flic.kr/p/2poLpss) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Everything about the Pulso is upscaled.

On the left, Broncolor Pulso P70 (Standard) reflector.

On the right, Broncolor Impact Umbrella reflector.

The Pulso is quite a bit bigger, more robust, made of metal. Impact reflectors are smaller than Pulso, and made of plastic.

[dxp]

244995244996

Thank you for the comparison. So now to the source of my confusion—above is my Visatec Logos 800 with the same P70 reflector mounted to it. Inside reflector shot to show the clearance between the glass dome and the inner diameter of the reflector mount.

Does this mean Bron changed the accessory mount on the Visatec range at some point?

[Daniel Unkefer]

OK I see your point.

Not familiar with the LOGOS 800, if it takes Pulso reflectors, in my book that is a BONUS. Many more options with Pulso mount IMO.

And also fits your Minipuls monolights. The Impaspot is really designed for Impact or 1600B.

They make a beautiful Optical Spot for Pulso but it is 'spensive. I would love to have one or two! The Picolite is another option to fit your packs, again quite an investment. Horses for courses.

[dxp]

The Logos models are referenced in that PDF you linked to a few posts back, on the final page. They have digital controls with .1 stop increments, rather than a variable dial as on the Solo models.

But in that PDF, the Logos models are pictured in several places with the Impact accessories fitted, and notably, without the 'by Bron' designation present on my copy of the 800.

I suspect at some point Bron updated the range from the Impact to the Pulso mount, added 'by Bron' to differentiate between the two versions, and killed off the Impact accessory line entirely.

And I agree the Pulso mount is preferable...but there are a lot of cheap Impact accessories out there that would be nice to use as well!

[dxp]

Found it—check page 10 of this PDF from the same site you linked me to for the other one:

https://www.spectratech.gr/Web/Visatec/pdf/51-040-00.pdf

244997

[Daniel Unkefer]

Yep you got it! Good job.

I got excited about the 1600B since it takes the Impact Impaspot. Looks like the LOGOS takes Pulso heads, in the thumbnails of the first link.

In Pulso you have to go to this; Would love to have a few of these!

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/7091-REG/Broncolor_33_640_00_Optical_Spot_Attachment_for.html

And while I'm at it, add a few Pecolights and accessories.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/199855-REG/Broncolor_32_021_07_Picolite_Lamphead.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/219943-REG/Broncolor_33_641_00_Picolite_Mobilite_Projection_Attachment.html

And this is why I went with Visatec! :)

[dxp]

It seems it's only that single model—LOGOS 800 BC—that has the Pulso accessory mount. Every other LOGOS model has the impact mount, going by the info in that second brochure.

Yeah those Pulso-mount optical spot attachments aren't cheap, and the Picolite accessories aren't far behind despite being smaller. I do have a Picolite, as well as the nearly identical Mobilite 2, and the native accessories for them come up on the second-hand market infrequently, and are expensive when they do. But it's somewhat of a unique product lineup given the small size but 1600J power level. I'd like to end up with a couple of the Picobox modifiers for product work, and the optical projector, too.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Phoxene in France is a direct source for Broncolor replacement flashtubes, and protection domes.
I have just ordered two more "Phoxene Dome for Broncolor Pulso" in Frosted Diffusion surface. I have one of these on my C200 Monolight 1600J, with Octobox 150, with supplemental diffusion added. I absolutely love it. Price is reasonable at 110 Euros. Shipping to me after the Holidays. I have another C200 suspended permanently overhead to ceiling, above my FOMA DIMIL Sweep Table. Again 1600J takes Pulso Modifiers, right now Broncolor Pan Beauty light, with 10 Degree Grid from Honeygrids. I want a diffusion dome in this overhead unit and also another for spare.

https://flashtube-phoxene.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/dome-broncolor-color-corected-frosted.png


dxp,

Do you use Gobos in an optical spot? I have some questions about that.

[dxp]

I believe Bron are now using these protection domes with the metal band around the base—they appear in product photos for the Pulso L lamps heads.I get the impression they're supposed to be a little more robust?

A small detail: isn't the C200 a 1500J light, not 1600J?

The closest I've come to using a gobo in the past decade or so is for this product shot (a lighting test, not a serious shot), where I used the slatted base out of a piece of Ikea furniture to achieve a background effect:

245021

It did the job, though:

245022

Do you find the diffusion domes make a noticeable difference when use in modifiers?

[Daniel Unkefer]

I'm constantly experimenting, and I like what the diffusion domes seem to add, a smoothness and emphasis on texture in the detailing of the image. The Jury is still out but I like what I am getting. Enough so that I want another couple of these. And I am keeping an eye out about other possible additions to the equipment locker. But on a Budget!

[dxp]

Well here's my new edition to the studio today...arrived after a couple of week's wait. It's actually brand new somehow...can't be too many left out there like this!

245039

These can apparently be modified so that the modelling lamp works with the Move 1200L generator, of which I have one. I now have two Mobilite 2 lamps, so if the modification price isn't crazy I might get them both done, to have a handy little twin-head kit for location work that's compatible with those Picolite/Mobilite modifiers I'm keen to acquire.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53429937527_9fb6601c8b_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ppqoXr)Sinar Gelatin Holder JB Welded to Impaspot front mount (https://flic.kr/p/2ppqoXr) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Here I have JB Welded a Sinar Gelatin Filter Holder, to the front of the Broncolor Impact Impaspot. So now a good way to secure Gobos, Gelatins, etc. I can even reverse mount a Sinar Polarizing filter, so the spotlight light can be polarized. Useful!



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53429936762_6e16ac02b1_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ppqoJf)Broncolor Impaspot Homemade Gobo Holders and Gobos (https://flic.kr/p/2ppqoJf) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Here I am experimenting with Homemade Gobo Holders for the Impaspot. I've made some out of sheet aluminum painted black, also some from black mount board cut to the correct size. I'm still working on what Gobos work best with the Impaspot; I have learned that the Picolight Projection Attachment takes "Type A" Rosco Gobos, I've ordered one to give it a try.

Anybody know what works good with the Impaspot? I'm still testing, I think mine can be improved. Ideas?

[Tin Can]

Good points

Your DOME sparked me

I need to try my Einstein with Safety's Dome aimed straight up

No modifier

per, Mortensen single lamp

Portraits!

[Daniel Unkefer]

Well here's my new edition to the studio today...arrived after a couple of week's wait. It's actually brand new somehow...can't be too many left out there like this!

245039

These can apparently be modified so that the modelling lamp works with the Move 1200L generator, of which I have one. I now have two Mobilite 2 lamps, so if the modification price isn't crazy I might get them both done, to have a handy little twin-head kit for location work that's compatible with those Picolite/Mobilite modifiers I'm keen to acquire.

dxp,

Oooo I saw an auction last year for a Broncolor Mobilite outfit, a couple of heads and pack, minus the battery. Looked it up, it was about $2500+ worth of uber kit, $200 BIN auction. Thunk that real hard about that, decided it was ANOTHER slippery slope LOL. Prolly should have pounced on it!

I have Norman 200b's (hot rodded by New York City Flash Clinic, sadly gone) but they only put out a measly 200J. But NYCFFC adapted mine to fit the Hasselblad Ring Light! They were kind of famous for that :) Way overused 80's fashion beauty photography equipment, being repurposed in 2020's by me. REDEYE gone amuck in the 80's fashion mags. Broncolor makes a real cool Ring Light 1600J it's on my radar. Takes a lot of grids/modifiers too.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Good points

Your DOME sparked me

I need to try my Einstein with Safety's Dome aimed straight up

No modifier

per, Mortensen single lamp

Portraits!

Post some results when you get to it. Thnx for contributing. Bare Bulb! A frosted diffusion dome helps, if Buff made them

[dxp]

About a month ago I saw a Mobilite setup sell over here for 200€ including the generator, lamp head, a battery, some accessories, and the carry case. I probably would've grabbed it except the seller was advertising it as pickup only and it would've been a 10 hour round-trip to drive there. It sold to someone else within a few days. But most people with a similar kit ask for 3x that amount, and then it takes months to sell, if at all.

Had to look up the Norman 200Bs as I'm not at all familiar with their gear. Yeah, something like that seems like a bit too much mucking around for 200J. I have a trio of Godox AD300Pro 300J battery strobes I added to my kit in recent months, and they're absolutely amazing considering the price, feature set, and form factor.

But for me the benefit of the Mobilite/Picolite heads is the amount of power they can output for the size, and some of those modifiers available for them.

I've actually got Bron's Ringflash C, grid set, and the beauty reflector, as it was included with the Bron kit I purchased. I'd planned to sell it, but after a bit of a play I quite like the light it produces, especially with the beauty reflector attached, so will hold onto it awhile.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Good info there dxp! Thanks.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53438438090_4f2358a518_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pqaXSS)Broncolor Catalog 1990 Impact (https://flic.kr/p/2pqaXSS) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Broncolor Impact Goodies currently on my radar (marked in sharpie pen). Stuff does come along.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53438575620_d079ab6ca9_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pqbEL5)Broncolor Sunlite Diffusion Dome and Head Warmer (https://flic.kr/p/2pqbEL5) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

A Broncolor Sunlite Diffusion Dome for $80 landed. It's big! and I'll find a use for it. Also a Broncolor Head Warmer, it will also prolly get some use too. :)

[dxp]

How does that differ from the regular diffusion dome?

[Daniel Unkefer]

How does that differ from the regular diffusion dome?

The Sunlite is unique, point-source strobe light, fits all Pulso heads. VERY sharp light, unusual flash tube very long, takes this size dome. Mine is UV coated as you can see, good for color. But I'm a B&W Guy, I'll use this dome in upcoming construction projects, I'll wager. I did order two Phoxene CLEAR Diffusion Domes for Pulso, they are on their way. Here's a test of one on my Octobox 150, with supplemental Octobox Diffusion Panel. Very soft wrap-around light, I love it.

And Yep the C200 is 1500J, not 1600J. My Bad. :) BUT let me caveat that; Sinar advertised that the C200 puts out MORE usuable light than some 2500J pack system; Because it's a Monolight, no additional resistance due to voltage flowing through cables. More Umph than some 2500J's. It's a Pulso Powerhouse :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52845619413_e3c482291a_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ovMBxc)Shell Peco Jr 180mm f5.6 Fuji GX680 PanF+ D23 (https://flic.kr/p/2ovMBxc) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Plaubel Peco Junior 180mm F5.6 Fuji GX680 Ilford PanF+ Plaubel Makina Film Back D23 1:1 JOBO Multitank6 Etone Tank Roller Omega DII 180mm black Rodagon laser aligned Arista #2 RC Dektol 1:2. Broncolor C200 Monolight Broncolor Octobox 150 Foamcore Fill Panel. Tim Layton digital background (printed at Sam's Club) on FOBA Sweep Table. Used a lot of camera movements to get the tines sharp as was possible.

As to whether a safety dome is required, Kevin AT KHB told me, if it's a fan cooled head, it needs a glass safety dome. My Olde Blue Universal Heads are NOT fan cooled, they can't take domes, but don't need them.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Here is an excellent posting on Youtube, the Godox fitted Projector (which can fit my Impacts and Visatec units), compared side by side, to the Broncolor Picolite, and the Pulso 4 Projector. I ordered one of the former off Ebay, which utilizes a Canon 50mm F1.8 AF lens. I happen to have one around that was given to me years ago. :) I can adapt this unit to fit Impact/Visatec units; I have adapter rings in my parts box that might work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otlCnzmFw4E

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53289293012_276c502986_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pbZyf1)Makiflex 150 Xenar HRU D23 Octobox 150 (https://flic.kr/p/2pbZyf1) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Plaubel Makiflex 150mm Schneider barrel Xenar 4x5 Fuji HRU XRAY D23 1:1 8x10 Aristo #2 RC Omega DII laser aligned. Dektol 1:2 Broncolor Octobox 150 with frosted bulb and Octobox Supplemental Diffusion. Backround by David Maheu "Tim Kelly Classic".

Lighting and background test. Shot this at a decent F/stop in one pop, prolly F11 or F16. Something I could not do before more strobe power came along. The size of the Octobox being 150cm spreads the light, then add bulb diffusion, and Octobox 150 Supplemental Diffusion. Approaching controllable 1500J window lighting with a fairly small studio footprint. I leave it set up all the time.

[dxp]

That's a really useful video, thanks. I'm now very interested in that Picolite projection spot attachment. I hadn't realised previously just how much control that gave you over the shape of the light.

That now means I want all the Picolite modifiers, 'cause I'll find uses for all of them! Yesterday I took delivery of the snoot attachment. I waited as long as I could for the cheapest deal I could find, but still ended up paying a few hundred euros. Also got a little Broncolor articulated arm for the Picolite, which is quite nice actually.

Here's a question for you—have you ever had to re-rivet a normal Broncolor Pulso-mount reflector? I caught a good deal (~30€) on a P65 reflector that arrived this week, and it's in really good shape but with a little slack in three of the four rivets that hold the bayonet mount to the reflector bowl.

I assume it would be pretty straight forward to carefully drill them out and replace with new rivets, but before I do I wonder if there's anything I should know about them, or if they're just a normal rivet. It could definitely still be used as is, but things that rattle in the studio tend to annoy me—I like everything solid and locked down.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53255288866_f7e57c3669_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2p8ZgZC)Broncolor Impaspot Impact 41 CFV16 60 Dist (https://flic.kr/p/2p8ZgZC) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Here I am firing a Broncolor Impaspot at a very large sheet of 1/4" Plexiglass (it came with my Broncolor Hazylight!), propped vertical on my FOBA Sweep Table. Kinda Kewl how the Impaspot lights the facets in the Plex. Flecks in the Plex! LOL Looks kinda Spacey. Hasselblad 500C/M CFV16 Digital Back, 60mm V Distagon. One Pop 600J EI 100

[Daniel Unkefer]

Here's a question for you—have you ever had to re-rivet a normal Broncolor Pulso-mount reflector? I caught a good deal (~30€) on a P65 reflector that arrived this week, and it's in really good shape but with a little slack in three of the four rivets that hold the bayonet mount to the reflector bowl. I assume it would be pretty straight forward to carefully drill them out and replace with new rivets, but before I do I wonder if there's anything I should know about them, or if they're just a normal rivet. It could definitely still be used as is, but things that rattle in the studio tend to annoy me—I like everything solid and locked down.

dxp,

The problem I have encountered, is the inner silver reflector needs to be removed, in order to get to the rivits. I have enlarged rivit holes, and used hobby model screws and hardware nuts and bolts to tighten it all up. I have a couple of P70 Reflectors that have lived hard, a few dents nothing crucial. These need attention, I don't like using wobbly stuff either, I like it solid and strong. Doable but it's a project IMO, not easy. But worth it! Rivits prolly easier than hobby nuts and bolts.
Let us know what works best.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53458427455_3da6411565_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2prWq26)Makiflex 150 Xenar F11 Octobox 50 Ortho Commercial 9x12cm (https://flic.kr/p/2prWq26) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Plaubel Auto Makiflex with SK Grimes Graphic Back 150 f4.5 Auto Maki Xenar Yellow Filter Ilford Commercial Ortho 9x12cm Arca Swiss 9x12cm Graphic Back. Broncolor Octobox 150 1500J C200 Monolight One Pop F11. D23 Straight Replenished in 9x12cm Combiplan Tank. DipN'Dunk works great! Love it. New Background Low Key by Artist David Maheu. 4x6 Foamcore Fill off camera right. A successful first test of the Combiplan, I utilized red LED safelight Inspection 25 minutes Straight Replenished D23. Omega DII Laser Aligned 180mm Rodagon Omegalite Dektol 1:2. Copied with Sony Nex 7 on Minolta SRT Copy Stand, Zeiss Touit 2.8/50M at F8

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53459573869_18682b8440_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ps3hNR)BRONCLOR 21 41 MAT GLASS DOME (https://flic.kr/p/2ps3hNR) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Bingo. Ding Ding Ding! After ten years of searching, a set of Broncolor Impact 21/41 Glass Domes. The FROSTED one is what I have needed Big Time. Different from the completely frosted end to end (early?) ones I have repeatedly broken in the past. This Dome is required when using the Broncolor Impact Impaspot, I have two of them. Coming from France, Hurray!

Does anyone know, are these European Product Code Numbers? They don't correspond to my USA catalogs.

[Tin Can]

Are they safety and diffusion?

[Daniel Unkefer]

Both are Pyrex safety, frosted one is necessary for precision projection spotlighting with the Impaspot. I've always covered my Impacts with the clear glass domes when using them at Weddings. For maximum safety, it's the incandescent modeling light that is most dangerous I think? Tungsten bulbs have been known to explode, so a worthy precaution. All my Impacts have clear domes, because they can take them.

The frosted one has been nearly impossible to find, until now. A long term search. Also interesting how the diffusion -just- covers the Impact flashtube. From there to further back, the dome is clear. Must work good that way?

[Tin Can]

I had 8 Tota with no shields as OE

Suddenly they had a big push to send all owners

a retrofit wire screen

I installed them in my 4 and work 4

They run very hot

Then I tried 1 and 2 K Moles

https://www.mole.com/8021-2000w-molelipso

[Daniel Unkefer]

I have a suitcase full of Totas, and almost all the accessories. I can't remember using them! Have a couple of Photogenic Mini-Spots, along with the stuff that makes those useful. Did use those a bit, also branded my hand a few times. I don't Like Hot Lights! I have a Mole Richardson GIGANTO Rolling Stand, I got it with my Broncolor Hazylight. It's in storage, along with my Hazylight. I suspect my Colortran Spot will get some use; Many of those were adapted to Broncolor Pulso. It does have very nice Gobo Blades inside it and a fair amount of different focusing adjustments. I did use #50B Flashbulbs for lighting Architectural Interiors, I made a triggering sync box at the time. Bought bulbs from Sylvania by the case.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53283223211_12a978476e_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pbsrUg)Colortran Zoom Eclipse Primo 2 Head 1600J Optical Spotlight CLA'ed (https://flic.kr/p/2pbsrUg) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Cheapo Theatrical Projection Unit Converted to modern 1600J Broncolor Pulso head with Frosted Dome Phoxene Primo. A decent high powered (start). Lots of ways to embelish this unit coming up. If I put a Primo 4 Head on this, then it's UBER 3200J, same output as modern Pulso 4. Hmmm I see mucho Colortran units on Ebay, they are plentiful and not too expensive. Mine has an Archer Heavy Duty Fan wired professionally, it was being used with a 6000J heads, mine are in storage for now. In my workshop I made an Adapter Universal Mount to Modern Pulso/Primo, from stuff in my parts box. Broncolor did make such an adapter, this is my repurposed version of the same. Lots of options.

I want to add grids and cutouts for the front mount on this unit. Some barndoors would be a plus, too. I think they made them for this Zoom Eclipse.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53462007840_0a3c67df30_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2psfLkS)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2psfLkS) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

This Projection Attachment arrived to today, I quickly modified it to fit Broncolor Impact/Visatec, using small strips of real Hollywood Gaffer Tape to hold it together for now. I will precisely bolt it together after drilling a few new holes, it appears pretty solid and extremely useful for me right now. In fact I am right now buying another one, this one was here very quickly from China. I really like the design, it's completely different from the Impaspots. It even came with some color transparencies which can be projected it sharply through it. And it came with QUITE an assortment of gobos. This unit uses Canon Digital Lenses in that mount, we have a bunch of those. Canon extension tubes can be added, with longer lenses I'll wager. So there is a lot of versatility in these units, after a few modifications are made. I also ordered some Gobo Blades from B&H, will be trying to find a way to use them in these. Or I will make some Gobo Blades if I have to.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52889838265_2fc6ffd97f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ozGfgc)Adox Ortho PL25 5x7 Norma MicX 360 Apo Ronar (https://flic.kr/p/2ozGfgc) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

5x7 Sinar Norma #2 360mm F9 Rodenstock Apo Ronar barrel at F11 Adox 5x7 Ortho PL25 Yellow filter Broncolor C200 1500WS Monolight popped eight times into Broncolor Octobox 150 with supplemental diffusion. 4x6 foot foamcore fill right just out of the frame. Legacy Mic-X straight replenished mixed in 2019. 5x7 Contact Print on Arista RC #2 Dektol 1:2 . I shot one frame at four pops, and one at eight pops. The denser neg looks better to me. Canvas background is "Tim Kelly Gold Plaster" painted for me by Artist David Maheu.

[dxp]

Do these Impact domes also fit on the Visatec lights, e.g as pictured in message #130:
https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?171091-Broncolor-Flash-Pack-Bonanza&p=1700539&viewfull=1#post1700539

Funnily enough, I had that particular eBay listing saved on my watch list.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53473746206_37d8cacbdb_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pthVKu)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2pthVKu) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr


Impact Length 76.3mm
Impact Glass Lip Outer Diameter 59.9mm


Visatec 1600B Length 64.7mm
Visatec 1600B Glass Lip Outer Diameter 57.2mm

I tried the Impact Dome on the Visatec 1600B, it's too big to fit it.
The Visatec Domes will fit on the Impacts. Still need a frosted Visatec Domes.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53474069648_ff39884cee_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ptjzU5)Sconpho Spotlight 50mm CFV16 EI 100 F22 60mm (https://flic.kr/p/2ptjzU5) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Testing the Sconpho Optical Spotlight, on the Broncolor S80 600J Frosted Dome. Hasselblad 500C/M CFV16 Digital Back F22 EI 100 60mm C T* Black Distagon. Trying to get more evenness of illumination across the frame, this has some brightness in the center. May repeat this with the clear dome and see if that makes a difference.

[dxp]

Impact Length 76.3mm
Impact Glass Lip Outer Diameter 59.9mm

Visatec 1600B Length 64.7mm
Visatec 1600B Glass Lip Outer Diameter 57.2mm

I tried the Impact Dome on the Visatec 1600B, it's too big to fit it.
The Visatec Domes will fit on the Impacts...


Well that's a little annoying then! Thank you for confirming, though—it seems I've managed to find an Impaspot for myself, and a coveted partially-frosted dome! Now I need to find a light to use them on...

[dxp]

...a set of Broncolor Impact 21/41 Glass Domes. The FROSTED one is what I have needed Big Time. Different from the completely frosted end to end (early?) ones I have repeatedly broken in the past. This Dome is required when using the Broncolor Impact Impaspot, I have two of them. Coming from France, Hurray!

Does anyone know, are these European Product Code Numbers? They don't correspond to my USA catalogs.

In your photo the clear dome is numbered 24.500.59 — what's the code given in the USA catalogue? Is it Z3492.00?

[Daniel Unkefer]

In your photo the clear dome is numbered 24.500.59 — what's the code given in the USA catalogue? Is it Z3492.00?

From my 1990 Catalog:

17-2016 Glass Dome Impact 21/41

17-2017 Glass Dome Diffused Spot

[dxp]

From my 1990 Catalog:

17-2016 Glass Dome Impact 21/41

17-2017 Glass Dome Diffused Spot

Ok, I've not seen that numbering system before in any of the European material I've comes across.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Well that's a little annoying then! Thank you for confirming, though—it seems I've managed to find an Impaspot for myself, and a coveted partially-frosted dome! Now I need to find a light to use them on...

Welcome to my world of cobbling all this together. Yes it's a little annoying, takes a while to figure it all out.

Basically in Impact Mount, you have four Broncolor choices:

Impact 21 150J 50W Modeling Light

Impact 41 300J 50W Modeling Light

Impact S40 300J 150W Modeling Light

Impact S80 600J 150W Modeling Light

I have all four of these models that have the Impact Mount. Obviously the 50W modeling bulbs don't run as HOT as the 150W. Close up I find the Impacts are workhorses, I've had some of mine for thirty years and still going strong.

[dxp]

So I have to confess...after your post the other day celebrating an end to your decade-long quest to find that partially-frosted glass dome for the Impact 21/41 lamps, I thought I should probably start a search of my own as I'd like to try an Impaspot some day.

Believe it or not, I got lucky and found one within a couple of days, along with a copy of the clear version (though with a crack), plus a handful of spare 300J tubes for the Impact 41 in various states of use...all for 20€!

Then while I was arranging a pickup time for a friend to collect those on my behalf, the seller mentioned they'd just listed another Broncolor accessory, and suggested I take a look in case it was also of interest. Lo and behold, it was the Impaspot, looking like it had never been used! 60€ they wanted for that...done!

So now I'm on the lookout for an Impact 41 light. It'll be a month or two before I get my hands on the Impaspot and accessories (told my friend not to risk posting all that glass, and just to bring it all back with them next time they visit), so there's no hurry.

Meanwhile I've parted company with that Pulso-mount equipped Visatec Logos 800BC we discussed a few pages back, and used those proceeds to fund a third (and final) Pulso G lamp head, which I've been wanting for a little while. That one should be arriving tomorrow...��

So I guess I'll now be on the lookout for any other Impact accessories going cheap. I didn't really need another mount to accessorise, but I've noticed the Impact modifiers don't command the premiums that used Pulso accessories do, so that's a positive at least.

[Daniel Unkefer]

I have an internet friend (who gifted me a boxful of Impact goodies), who knows the designer of the Impact electrical circuit. Every component is WAY overspeced, and the circuit is designed to be as simple/trouble free as possible. The local used store had one in their clearance room for $12, it was recently added to the fold. I've used Impacts for many decades and they about as trouble free as you can get. And tremendous bargains do come along.

My spotlight project needs some more work, but the equipment is becoming more useful to me. Cutting gobo holders out of black mat board, attaching many different gobos to check out the lighting characteristics. Putting a central stop in front of the condensers sharpens up the image quite a bit. Tuning this up is an interesting project. I'm thinking of ordering a set of pinholes from a Guy on Ebay, in custom sizes. When I want just a speck of light....

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51652872386_9b585b556f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mGotph)Digitest Balloon Beauty Light and Fill (https://flic.kr/p/2mGotph) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Digitest of lighting setup Sky Blue Seamless Broncolor Beauty Light at F32 45 degrees, Broncolor Balloon at a 45 degree F16 providing soft overall fill to the set. Silver Fill Panel camera light angled to 'feather' the fill. So far I have tried Hasselblad with 100mm, and also with 350 f5.6 with 8mm Extension Tube. Both TMax 100 bracketed f32 to F11. Also I have set up 5x7 Sinar Norma with my longest LF lens, a 790mm F14 Rodenstock Apo Ronar. 47 inches of bellows draw measured/required, with 1.5 stops of Bellows Draw calculated. I'll leave it set up for a while until I am satisfied with what I have gotten. 5x7 contact prints are the goal on this one. Starting with small format and slowly moving up

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52203559137_e09222c01a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nx3Tor)Testing Studio Lighting 2 350mm f.56 Tele Tessar ELM (https://flic.kr/p/2nx3Tor) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Hasselblad EL/M with 350mm F5.6 black Non-T* Tele-Tessar. Ilford 120 PanF+. Broncolor Balloon Head (gorgeous light as smooth and soft as you can get!) camera left, silver reflector just off camera right. Laser aligned Omega DII 180mm black Rodagon 8x10 Arista Matte #2 Multigrade. 18mm Hasselblad Extension Tube brought the 350mm lens into focus at this close distance. Canvas background by Artist James Bright.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204791489_91e83fbb3e_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nxacHT)Testing Studio Lighting 350mm f.56 Tele Tessar ELM (https://flic.kr/p/2nxacHT) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Hasselblad EL/M with 350mm F5.6 black Non-T* Tele-Tessar. Ilford 120 FP4+. Broncolor Balloon Head (gorgeous light as smooth and soft as you can get!) camera left, silver reflector just off camera right. Laser aligned Omega DII 180mm black Rodagon 8x10 Arista Matte #2 Multigrade. 18mm Hasselblad Extension Tube brought the 350mm lens into focus at this close distance. Seamless Paper "Sky Blue" Savage.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51561297033_516a1fc9bc_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2myi8eT)47mm F8 F32 4x5 Norma HP5 (https://flic.kr/p/2myi8eT) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

My widest LF lens, the chrome 47mm F8 Super Angulon in Compur shutter. Mounted on an original Sinar Norma Recessed Lensboard. Tim Kelly lighting, extreme close-up, lens less than a foot away from my test target. Three Broncolor Pulso C171 Monolights plus fill panel, HP5+ 4x5 (in Linhof Plate Holder) D:23 1;1 in 8x10 Unicolor Unidrum and Uniroller. 8x10 4X print Arista #2 RC Multigrade dev Omega DII laser aligned 180 black Rodagon Omegalite Diffusion Head. In close up mode this lens -almost- covers 4x5. You can see that in the four corners of this shot. BTW I picked up my stand-in "model" and the plant base at the local IKEA store. :) The base is "Rubbermaid Studio". Seemed appropriate to me. The canvas background was hand painted by Artist James Bright

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51493543290_3a638a4f88_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2msiSpU)Broncolor C171 Monolight Full Power F16 ISO 100 F16 to F8 SRMT's 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2msiSpU) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

C171 375J Broncolor Balloon camera left, silver fill camera right. The Balloon is normally used as a fill light.

[dxp]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52204791489_91e83fbb3e_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nxacHT)Testing Studio Lighting 350mm f.56 Tele Tessar ELM (https://flic.kr/p/2nxacHT) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Hasselblad EL/M with 350mm F5.6 black Non-T* Tele-Tessar. Ilford 120 FP4+. Broncolor Balloon Head (gorgeous light as smooth and soft as you can get!) camera left, silver reflector just off camera right. Laser aligned Omega DII 180mm black Rodagon 8x10 Arista Matte #2 Multigrade. 18mm Hasselblad Extension Tube brought the 350mm lens into focus at this close distance. Seamless Paper "Sky Blue" Savage.

I really like this one.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Thanks dxp!

I'm ordering laser punched pinholes in sizes 0.2mm to 0.7mm, they will go in the Generic Projector with the Canon lens mounting. I want to add very controlled circles of light the right size, I'm having fun tuning it all up. A second unit is on the way, this one has Gobo Blades, so a cool enhancement. Also from Adorama in NYC I pounced on a perfectly good Primo Head with Tube Dome and Bulb for $80. So that gives me plenty of Primo 1600J heads, I also have Primo 4 Heads which are 3000J each. Strip Boxes seem to require a lot of power, glad I have the Primo 4 Packs and Heads. The Visatec 600J 1600B works great with the Generic Projector, I'm glad I picked it up. Integrates well with my Impact stuff. 600J is enough for most shoots, but not always. Kevin Taylor in his video suggested pinholes could be made to work in budget substitution for Pecolights. I believe he may well be exactly right. I think I will adapt (via a converter) to Minolta SRT mount on the Projectors, as I have scads of Rokkor lenses around, and my Wife's digital Canon lenses can go back into her camera bag. The Canon 135mm F1.8 is sweet but very heavy! I tried a Rokkor Bellows on the front of the projector, it excels with the 100mm Bellows Rokkor.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53504892408_18d71a8deb_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pw3yqY)Two Shenpho Light Projectors Canon Lenses Laser Pinhole GOBOS (https://flic.kr/p/2pw3yqY) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Two Shenpho Broncolor Impact Projectors have been modified with real Impact Mounts, Canon Digital Lenses 50mm, 135mm F1.8 (SWEET!), Zoom works too, versatile but a bit dim. Laser Cut GOBOS from 0.2mm pinhole to 1.0mm. Works great like a "Poor Man's Pecolight" for adding tiny specks of light where I want them. And GOBO Blades, and an Interior Condenser (the deluxe version on the right) I can make any size light cutout I desire. This will be quite useful for macro still life shooting. Precision lighting control. The basic projector units were $110 and $130 so priced well. I got the idea to build these, from Kevin Taylor's excellent video (linked above) comparing Broncolor compatible Spot Projectors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otlCnzmFw4E

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53504916228_ca47380add_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pw3FvE)Generic Honeycomb half inch Broncolor Impact Beauty Light (https://flic.kr/p/2pw3FvE) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Have wanted a Honeycomb Grid for my Impact Beauty Light, for quite a while. Bought a Generic 1/2 thick Metal Honeycomb online for Thirty Dollars. Used real Gaffers Tape to attach it after cutting. Makes beautiful (more controlled) lighting, not spilling all over the place. Final step will be to zap it with some Flat Black Krylon. I've kept my eyes out for the Broncolor Ones, never to be found so far.. This is a great embellishment on this Beauty Light. I'm really pleased.

Does anybody know where I can buy LARGE sheets of Polarizing Gel? I want to be able to polarize my beeg Pan Lights. 17"x20" is the biggest I see online so far. Anybody know?? Need 20"x20" Polarizing Gels.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53508974040_007d190e82_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pwptKW)Sanpho GOBO test Visatec 1600B 600J 50CT CFV16 (https://flic.kr/p/2pwptKW) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Sanpho GOBO test Visatec 1600B 600J Hasselblad 500C/M CFV16 Digital Back 60mm F3.5 C T* Zeiss Distagon. Clear dome over flash tube. F16 Indicated EI 100. GOBO fired onto canvas background. Image can be made pretty sharp with Canon Digital EF lenses. Broncolor FM Strobe Meter tested the light. Looks pretty even illumination to me. Usuable.

[MrFujicaman]

Have you tried Edmund Scientific in Barrington NJ?

[Daniel Unkefer]

Thank You MFM! Here's a sheet, 'spensive but I can get 19.5"x20" which -might- fit my 10 Degree Broncolor Pulso Honeygrids Grid, I will make some more measurements.


https://www.edmundoptics.com/p/500-x-600mm-018mm-thickness-polarizing-laminated-film/28642/#

[bourvil]

As there seem to be a lot of knowledge about Broncolor, I will ask my question here:

I inherited Broncolor generator type 232 or 242 (has both stickers on it) with 3 lamps and 3 tripods. Powerpack has 3 outputs, 3 buttons on top (red (main switch), green (test) and white (is half depressed and can be switched further down)) and 2 sync connectors. Its case is light blue with black top plastic part. I cannot see the power it has, Only at bottom it says that the power consumption is 2700 VA. I guess it is from 1970 era. I did not test it as I want to check all before connection into grid. Has 3 UL lamps with E14 thread for pilot lamp and 3pin connector for flash tube - only 2 lamps have the tube - 1400 and 1600 WS

Can you please tell me more about this powerpack?

Many thanks for any relevant info or help!

[Daniel Unkefer]

As there seem to be a lot of knowledge about Broncolor, I will ask my question here:

I inherited Broncolor generator type 232 or 242 (has both stickers on it) with 3 lamps and 3 tripods. Powerpack has 3 outputs, 3 buttons on top (red (main switch), green (test) and white (is half depressed and can be switched further down)) and 2 sync connectors. Its case is light blue with black top plastic part. I cannot see the power it has, Only at bottom it says that the power consumption is 2700 VA. I guess it is from 1970 era. I did not test it as I want to check all before connection into grid. Has 3 UL lamps with E14 thread for pilot lamp and 3pin connector for flash tube - only 2 lamps have the tube - 1400 and 1600 WS

Can you please tell me more about this powerpack?

Many thanks for any relevant info or help!

Sorry I'm not familiar. What I would consider, is getting a more modern pack, unless you have a way to test and replace innards. A nice 1600J Primo or Pulso Pack, with 1600J Heads (I'd verify that; I bought some olde UL heads once in in a bundle, they were 200 and 800J) is a great start. Carefully check the condition of the cords and insulation/plugs, I've wrapped cords with tape until I am sure they are safe. In good shape the olde Universal blue heads work great with more modern packs, although they are not fan cooled.

Kevin at KHB may have some knowledge; He told me to put my olde Blue 404 Packs away, caps were getting too olde most likely. Email or call him, he's very helpful. Perhaps Broncolor Service? If you want to go that way, buy packs that use LED controllers, not microprocessor controls (which POOF!)

Be wary and consult an expert for safety!

http://www.khbphotografix.com/ServiceParts2.html

[MrFujicaman]

Thank You MFM! Here's a sheet, 'spensive but I can get 19.5"x20" which -might- fit my 10 Degree Broncolor Pulso Honeygrids Grid, I will make some more measurements.


https://www.edmundoptics.com/p/500-x-600mm-018mm-thickness-polarizing-laminated-film/28642/#

And now you know why my dad's nickname for me was "The Finder" !

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53511385919_5b1af25858_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pwBQJ4)Optical Spots S80 S40 Imoact Visatec 1600B (https://flic.kr/p/2pwBQJ4) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Still trying to get the Broncolor Optispot to look a bit better; It's pretty soft at the edges. The Generic Optical Spots are behaving sharply very well; In fact I bought a third one (the one with the attached Gobos and Interior Condenser Lens). These are useful units for Macro shooting as well as other applications. Testing the Octobox 150 and the Hasselblad CFV16 Digital Back, 60mm CT* Distagon 500C/M. F16 0.at EI 100.

[Mal Paso]

I just rebuilt a Norman 2000 WS Tri Lite optical spot that I purchased "as is" for a good price. It was like new except the fan housing had separated and the flash tube was 3/8 off center due to too much silicone on the flashtube base. The silicone was used as an insulator on the flashtube base and the assembler used way too much, let it harden so he/she had to bend the flashtube bracket to assemble the unit. The top, left of the projection must have been a real hotspot. Might be why it looks new.

Anyway based on that success I ordered 3" and 5" lenses to complement the 4" that came with it. They are Kodak Carousel lenses and were $21 taxed and shipped. The Tri Lite has a very high leaf count iris built in and came with a holder for 2x2 slides so you can project backgrounds. I see 8" and 10" lenses available but I think shorter may be more useful. It looks like it will take the 2.6" Gobos from Westcott and Godox. You can project all kinds of windows, foliage and shapes.

I'll post some pictures in a while. Still on generators after 80 MPH wind and rain trashed the coast. The spotlight was a nice diversion.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Mal Paso,

Nice. Great when olde can be salvaged and made useful. Ektanon projection lenses sound perfect. I'm enjoying hot rodding my optical spots, I see great promise with these. Literally pinpoint accent lighting possible. Very versatile too.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53519309203_8d6002d203_m.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pxjs3p)Broncolor Impaspot Finally Behaving CFV16 EI 100 F13.5 Indicated (https://flic.kr/p/2pxjs3p) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Finally the Broncolor Impaspot is starting to Behave! This is the entire field, looks even to me, modeling lamp is not accurate due to ventilation holes in the frosted S80 Dome. Required for this unit. Broncolor Strobe Meter indicated EI 100 F13.5. Set that on the 60mm C T* Distagon, this is the result. Good enough to start using I think. Still looking for original Impaspot Accessories in good condition. CFV16 Digital Back F13.5. Broncolor Impact S80 Monolight 600J 150W Modeling gets hot!

[Mal Paso]

The Tri Lite modeling is very uneven as it shines through the flashtube. It's a 250W MR16 and has a blower. The flash looks even though.

Daniel, I'm sure you'll find all the pieces if you keep an eye out. We are the only 2 buying this stuff and I'm into a different brand.

[Daniel Unkefer]

we are the only 2 buying this stuff and i'm into a different brand.

lol

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53529194416_a9618bc310_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pyc7z7)Digital V System 30mm to 120mm (https://flic.kr/p/2pyc7z7) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Using a heavy duty FOBA Fitting, I bolted a Broncolor C200 Pulso Monolight 1600J, directly above my FOBA Sweep Table, pointed straight down. A Pulso Beauty Dish, with Honeygrids Pulso Grid attached. I think beautiful light that I leave set up all the time. Also at 45 left an Impact S80 600J Monolight with homemade 12 inch Beauty Light with Grid. My wide to medium short Digital Hasselblad system. Which integrates very well with Olde Broncolor, up and down power in 1/10 stop increments necessary with digital. I used a mirror on a flexishaft to reflect from off camera right. Catches light from the baby beauty light. 30mm Distagon, 40mm Distagon, 50mm Distagon, 80mm Planar, 100mm Planar, and 120mm S-Planar. A short to medium full set, all roughly the same vintages. More than I can carry around, but it's here to use. Also 2 of 4 Lithium Battery Packs, Type CF Adapter, and seven 32G Micro Cards. I now prefer this late model Magnifying Hood, and the special CFV16 Acute Focusing Screen, which makes a huge deal with critical focus with this thing. It is -very- critical and DOF seems to be less than usual with this system. But all is good here. The Rubber Eyecup came from the Ukraine, a Hartblei 1006 Magnifying Hood Eyecup. Fits all my Blad Finders, also came from many Kiev 60 Meter Prisms. So I loaded up on them. Recommended.

The 2017 Hasselblad CFV16 integrates greatly with my 2000's era Broncolor bigger stuff. 1/10 f/stop is a necessary feature with digital. All my packs are LED controlled, or otherwise pre-LCD controls, which can "poof". Go with LED's or earlier, as recommended by Kevin at KHB. I have a nice mix of olde olde and mid-modern which suits me well.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51375282212_a24db75360_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mgRKvN)My Portrait Lighting Downscaled 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2mgRKvN) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

25 years ago I studied Tim Kelly's lighting techniques. This is my 2021 retro version, scaled down quite a bit, no giant softboxes. But the same lighting principles apply just the same. Here's the scheme. A Broncolor Impact 21 strobe on full power, set at extreme camera left 90 degrees, providing an overall fill to the set and lighting the backround completely. The fill light modifier is a Broncolor Impaflex 60x60 softbox. Exposure measured incident F16 on full power. FILL F16 A Broncolor Impact 41 strobe on full power, set at 45 degrees camera left. Provides main light on the subject. The light modifier is a Broncolor Impaflex 60x60 softbox. Exposure measured incident F32 on full power. MAIN F32. A Broncolor Impact 21 strobe on full power camera camera light and up high. Impact reflector with Impact Grid. A tight circular pattern tightly aimed above the subject (no light on the subject) and creating a lighter background area to the upper right of the frame. Exposure on background measured incident F22 on full power. GRID SPOT F32. Finally a 36" round silver reflector just off camera right 45 degrees and "feathered" Since we read left to right, this makes a "dark, light, dark, light" across the frame that I find attractive. What I'd like is something interesting to look at in every part of the frame. Not there yet but it's a start. Exposed F32 4x5 TMAX100 Makiflex Automatic #2 210mm f6.8 Kern Apo Repro lens. Also shot some Ilford FP4+ 6x6cm Linhof Black Rollex film magazine. Man these early wind knob Rollex's are a good match for the Makis. :) Sheet film developed in an 8x10 Unicolor Unidrum using one-shot D23 diluted 1:1 ten minutes at 72F on a Unicolor Uniroller. Sony Nex digital test (way cheaper than Fujiroid!). Mac at Camtronics just simultaneously CLA'ed five of my Black Linhof 4x5 8 Exposure Wind Knobs. Which I recovered with special rubber from the Rollei Factory, a friend snagged some for me.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53575374241_e1054fc2e9_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pCgNdZ)Soonpho Projection and Beauty Lights Impact Mount (https://flic.kr/p/2pCgNdZ) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I have wanted Projection Spots for my Broncolor Impact monolight strobes for quite a while, the Impact 41 at 300J is powerful enough shooting in close. Soonpho Projection Units, two of them have the supplemental condenser inside, which evens the light out much better. The third unit is the original diffusion only design, which perfectly fits the Visatec 1600B, as it has a deeper flash tube mount. All three have Adapters from Canon EF, to Minolta SRT mount. Shown back left, is the 100mm F4 Bellows Rokkor, on a Minolta SRT Bellows. In front left is a 100mm F2 Pre-MC Rokkor, super bright light sucker lens. On the far right front, is the Soft Focus Spiratone Portragon, with homemade Honeycomb Grid, and SRT Adapter to EF. Now I also have the 85mm F2.8 and 150mm F2.8 made by Soonpho for this. And in the back center, two Soonpho Twelve Inch Baby Beauty Lights, with Honeycomb Grids. All this stuff fits my Impact 21/41 and Impact S40/S80 units, as well as my Visatec 1600B. The Baby Beauty Lights both have Rosco Polarization Sheets held in place by the Honeycombs. With the Polarizer on the lens, these babies can have their reflections removed in the images, so quite useful to me. Precision teeny tiny light placement at bottom feeding prices. I converted all of these to Broncolor Impact (all were Godox mount) in my workshop. Twas fun, drill press and electric scroll saws from Harbor Freight utilized. Nuts and Bolts came from our local Lowes.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53578228932_1d58729d58_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pCwqPN)TTL 4x5 5x7 8x10 Broncolor Strobe Meters Norma Sinarsix Cassettes (https://flic.kr/p/2pCwqPN) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Another new to me Broncolor studio enhancement. Early on I stockpiled Sinar Norma Meter Cassettes, here are 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 Versions. I bought this FCM2 Ambient/Strobe Meter, which I never used much. Just now an Internet Friend offered me a second one, it has been upgraded from FCM to FCM2, by Larry at Broncolor Service. The difference I'm told is four meter cells versus two. Anyway these read TTL ambient, flash strobe, or combinations thereof. Once these are properly tested and calibrated I'm switching to TTL, which should add amazing exposure control, and should eliminate costly bracketing of exposures, when shooting expensive sheet films. Exposure variations can compound, causing unexpected results sometimes. These should eliminate a lot of that. BTW these meters were over $500 each new; I paid about $30 for each of these. More good Broncolor purchases, also they control my Pulso Power Packs by remote Infared control, which speeds up shooting setup time. I used Velcro from Lowes to attach the FCM's to the Olde Norma Meter Cassettes.

One of my Impact 41 gave up the ghost, so I replaced it with one with a six month warranty in new condition from Roberts Camera. And made an offer for another Visatec 1600B which was accepted. Wanted backup units and the prices were fair IMO.

[Mal Paso]

Ya, I picked up another 4,000 WS power pack for $135 delivered. Likely less than the cost of round trip shipping of one for repair. I tried to say no but couldn't. That brings me up to 20KWS, 19,880 actual, just past the actual power of the 19,200 WS Profoto studio featured last year.

Including all the new light/background stands, umbrellas, gels and grip equipment I've spent about $5K, Profoto would be well north of $150K.

What's nice is being able to leave equipment permanently set up and not being a target like Profoto would be.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53587277001_c565604844_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pDjNuZ)New James Bright SEASIDE 500CM Hasselblad CFV16 30mm Distagon F9.5 C171 Beauty (https://flic.kr/p/2pDjNuZ) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Years ago I snagged some James Bright Backgrounds which were sold by Sinar and Calumet. Now this one has come along (entitled "Seaside") for $35 with the money going to charity. Tested with Hasselblad 500C/M CFV16 Digital Back 50mm F3.5 C T* Distagon EI 50 Broncolor C171 375J Universal Beauty Dish F9.5. Love it

Olde Blue C171 Broncolor Monolight 375J with Blue Universal Beauty Light, with Olde vintage Blue Universal Beautylight grid. 250W modeling light that does not spill all over my small studio, due to the Olde Beautylight Grid. Notice how it vignettes the light in the four corners. I like that.

[Daniel Unkefer]

I like the Visatec 1600B I have, perfect for my uses. I bought another one recently (as a backup) for $90, turns out it is like brand new, fully tricked out. So he had three more of them, so I grabbed those as well. A quick friendly call to Kevin at KHB confirms how to bring these babies out of coma. Set to lowest power setting, let it soak for a bit. Five pops or so at lowest power, then gradually increasing power, popping at 1/4, 1/2, and finally full power. It'll either work or go bang. These are brand new units and revived nicely. $899 each originally in the Broncolor catalog. With reflectors, power cords, flash tubes, modeling lights it's a great deal IMO. The modeling light by itself is $65 online so I'm pleased. Kevin agrees :)

[Mal Paso]

Getting full yet? LOL With the optical spot I'm up to 15 flash heads and 20KWS. The optical spot isn't marked as the 2,000 but has the 2400WS flashtube.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Getting full yet? LOL

Yes! But I have bought boku small and large plastic boxes and reorganizing (labeling) everything in the studio so it's all right at hand. A big job!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53608471419_a8f3469533_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pFcqRZ)SONY DSC (https://flic.kr/p/2pFcqRZ) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

This arrived yesterday from Germany. Another Broncolor Universal Fresnel 1600J Spotlight. Now I have three of these, works great with my Primo and Pulso Flash Packs. Also bought an extra flash tube for this (it's a special one), and they kindly threw in extra modeling bulbs. Good price and useful to me. POP POP POP.

I'm done for now!

[Mal Paso]

I'm done for now!

Famous last words!

I have most of my strobes in 6, 16 inch tall Rubbermaid HD Totes and one of the short totes. They are the only totes worth buying! One pack with cables, 2 heads, reflectors, etc in each tote except for the single 4KWS head and power pack. I made an inventory so I know what I have and which tote an item is in.

[dxp]

I like the Visatec 1600B I have, perfect for my uses. I bought another one recently (as a backup) for $90, turns out it is like brand new, fully tricked out. So he had three more of them, so I grabbed those as well. A quick friendly call to Kevin at KHB confirms how to bring these babies out of coma. Set to lowest power setting, let it soak for a bit. Five pops or so at lowest power, then gradually increasing power, popping at 1/4, 1/2, and finally full power. It'll either work or go bang. These are brand new units and revived nicely. $899 each originally in the Broncolor catalog. With reflectors, power cords, flash tubes, modeling lights it's a great deal IMO. The modeling light by itself is $65 online so I'm pleased. Kevin agrees :)

That's a nice pickup! I see the 1600B come up for sale from time to time here, but not that cheap, and not in such good condition.

I recently picked up a trio of Minipuls C200 monos in superb condition, apart from one unit with a rattling fan that the seller overlooked. So he gave me a little discount which dropped the price to below 150€ a head—pretty good I think considering the power they put out. I just wish they had the beep when power is recycled.

I've actually had a nice little run of late picking up some different bits and pieces to add to my setup. I still haven't got around to replacing that loose rivet in the P65 reflector I bought earlier this year, but I got a good deal on a 4-door barndoors attachment to suit it. Then last week I took delivery of a min-condition P45 narrow-angle reflector, which has the same diameter and so can share the same attachments, and then finally also grabbed a set of grids a couple of days ago, to fit them both.

Also grabbed the Pulso-mount snoot, which I've been looking for for a little while, and a mat-finish protection dome that suits the Pulso G and Unilites—that'll be useful with my Pulso-flooter modifier. And I've also ended up with multiple copies of the Pulso soft light reflector (aka Bron's silver beauty dish) in order to obtain the matching grid and diffusor accessories, and lastly have just collected the "official" beauty dish (i.e. white interior) since I want to compare that to the silver one that I'm keeping.

So I have quite a few reflectors and modifiers to play around with now—it's good fun—and a few things I need to offload as well!

[dxp]

Famous last words!

I have most of my strobes in 6, 16 inch tall Rubbermaid HD Totes and one of the short totes. They are the only totes worth buying! One pack with cables, 2 heads, reflectors, etc in each tote except for the single 4KWS head and power pack. I made an inventory so I know what I have and which tote an item is in.

Here in Germany I'm trying to build a storage system for my little home studio based around the Tanos Systainer containers. They're quite expensive compared to most tubs or competing lines from other manufacturers but have some handy features that make them appealing to me. And being able to stack them several units high and roll them around on matching carts is great also.

[Mal Paso]

Here in Germany I'm trying to build a storage system for my little home studio based around the Tanos Systainer containers. They're quite expensive compared to most tubs or competing lines from other manufacturers but have some handy features that make them appealing to me. And being able to stack them several units high and roll them around on matching carts is great also.

The Tanos Systainer system is much nicer but Rubbermaid stacks too just not as well. I need a couple clients with deep pockets like the old days. In the old days there were plywood/metal boxes that were heavier than the equipment. I built a chest 40x18x18 inches from solvent welded white ABS sheet that would hold 6 heads with the reflectors nested in the middle and slots for the barn doors and gels on each end. That was all the light stuff, I packed the power packs separately. It was beautiful but the fire got it and I don't have the inclination to build another. So it's Rubbermaid tubs for now.

[dxp]

The Tanos Systainer system is much nicer but Rubbermaid stacks too just not as well. I need a couple clients with deep pockets like the old days. In the old days there were plywood/metal boxes that were heavier than the equipment. I built a chest 40x18x18 inches from solvent welded white ABS sheet that would hold 6 heads with the reflectors nested in the middle and slots for the barn doors and gels on each end. That was all the light stuff, I packed the power packs separately. It was beautiful but the fire got it and I don't have the inclination to build another. So it's Rubbermaid tubs for now.

I've noticed that many of the older two- or three-head lighting kits from Multiblitz that are frequently advertised in second-hand channels, come in their original aluminium cases/chests, that are designed to neatly hold the complete kit. And from time to time I've also seen more generic, but very solid aluminium transport cases, included with studio lighting kits, where one of two generators is located in the centre of the case with two heads at each end. It does look very heavy though, as you said.

248305

The above is (poorly lit) shot of a couple of my Systainers. The ones with the drawers I really find handy as you can keep a larger item above (e.g. a Godox AD600Pro flash) and then a bunch of accessories underneath (charger, cables, spare parts etc). It also makes some things accessible even when at the bottom of a stack.

The top Systainer is a T-Loc IV (the IV designating its height relative to other models). I've worked out an arrangement that neatly holds three (or even four) nested Broncolor P70 standard reflectors, a P-travel reflector underneath that stack, a set of P70 barn doors, and two of the 3-piece P70 grid sets. I still need to build an internal frame/divider setup to keep everything properly in place and safe for transportation, but even just for stationary storage it's a nice way to do it, and is a pretty efficient way to keep all those related accessories together. And yes I do like to keep spare pieces of tape on my Systainers if there's a chance I can reuse them later.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53612849323_23cdf6ac64_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pFzSg6)Lighting Test Octobox 45 Balloon 90 f19.5 EI 100 CFV16 50 Dist (https://flic.kr/p/2pFzSg6) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

FOBA DUPLI Acryl Cone great for photographing shiny small objects. Broncolor Quadrofix Universal Mount Soft Boxes, with Quadrofix Supplemental Diffusion Screens. olde style works well on the C171 Monolight, and my Olde Blue Universal Heads. Testing new Lighting Scheme Broncolor Balloon at 90 degrees to set camera left, Octobox 150 at 45 degrees camera left. Primo 1600J Heads on each unit, fed by 1600J Primo A2 pack. Hasselblad Digital CFV16 50mm black CT* 500C/M Body EI 50 F19.5 one pop. I like this lighting may leave it set up. I'll steam the wrinkles out of this muslin and it's good to go. The Apple Boxes from B&H are something that should be in every studio, I stained them last summer and they are finally cured and ready to use.


dxp,
Regarding wobbly rivits in Broncolor Reflectors, I ended up using four strips of good Gaffer Tape from B&H, it secures the rivits so the reflector mount becomes rock solid. Simple easy solution. My Broncolor Silver Beauty Dish has stopped wobbling.

[Mal Paso]

Well I slipped again, just ordered another 2000 WS optical spot, 2 lenses, spare bulb, $125. Half the price of a flashtube or Chinese Bowens mount spot attachment.

Didn't know they had 1/8 Apples. Lab scissor stands are great for tabletop as you can adjust the height.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Yeah Well we all slip LOL

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53243708486_6c21ff8925_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2p7XVxU)Arca Swiss Stovepipe Auto Makiflex 150 Xenar Prontors (https://flic.kr/p/2p7XVxU) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

This is the Broncolor C200 Monolight ($2500 in the catalog) with Pulso Silver Beauty Dish with HoneyGrids Comb, attached to ceiling, pointed straight down, with FOBA heavy duty Combitube Mount. Leave this set up all the time. Broncolor states that the C200 puts out as much light as a lot of 2500J units. So a Mono Powerhouse takes pro Pulso stuff. FOBA Sweep Table with Vinyl Photo Background from Amazon. FOBA made background sheets for the DIMIL table I'm looking...

That's an Arca Swiss 4x5 Magnifying Hood on my Auto Makiflex. I got the idea from Geoff Berliner. Very High Eyepoint. Eyepiece tilts 90 Degrees. Plaubel used to say "Every studio needs a reflex camera".

[Mal Paso]

Interesting. I leave a 2400 WS 3x4 foot softbox, on a boom, parked against the ceiling and swing it down for use. It would be nice to attach it to the ceiling but can't figure a way to angle it as easy as the boom. I miss my superboom but that's more room than I can spare right now.

I just picked up a 21x74 inch Photoflex Half Dome minus the speed ring for $95 delivered, I couldn't say no. I found I already had the speed ring from another lot. I used to have the large Chimera and always wanted a strip light that size.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53617061890_f859bc1b04_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pFXsvy)Broncolor Balloon Primo Head Primo A 1600J Octobox 150 Manfrotto Scissors (https://flic.kr/p/2pFXsvy) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

A 1600J Broncolor Primo Head is connected to a Manfrotto Scissors, connected to Ceiling with a FOBA Combitube Mount. Beautiful fill light from the Balloon, as soft as you can get, set at 90 degrees to the set. Octobox 150 Main Light (set one stop brighter) at 45 Degrees. Could do a group of ten, if I was doing that. I bought five of the Manfrotto Scissors, $50 each at World of Used Photography. Turns out they are close to $500 each at B&H. Cheap Cheap. My Universal Heads are in individual boxes (up top Metro Shelving on wheels) heads and cables. My big Olde Broncolor Universal Fresnel Spots are in the big boxes near the bottom. Room for loose stuff on top of the boxes. If I invest in a rail system I can slide these lights easily around. This is fine for now.

https://broncolor.swiss/products/balloon

[Mal Paso]

OK, I'm jealous.

[Daniel Unkefer]

It gets even better. Stay tuned for more Broncolor stuff. :)

[Mal Paso]

I just rebuilt my 2nd Tri-Lite 2000. I cleaned the bulbs and condensers with alcohol wipes and the iris with Chemtool on a towel. The iris was still sticking so I blew a little graphite into it, smooth as silk now. The felt runners under the lens were disintegrating and hanging up the focus so those were removed and replaced with a piece of black HDPE from the side of an oil jug. Slick as snot and looks good too. Finally a drop of oil on the tension spring to stop the squeak when focusing.

I am getting dependent on my first Tri-Lite and immediately ordered a backup modeling lamp, $16. When I looked for a flashtube, $310. I thought if I looked for a bit I could probably buy 2 complete Tri-Lites for that. I bought the "new" one for $148 delivered with a 2nd lens, spare bulb and stand. It's 100% now and ready if I need 2 or a backup.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Putting a fine Pulso Grid on my Universal Fresnel Spotlight really tightens the circle nicely and cuts out light spill. I want to attach barndoors as well, I'll use Manfrotto 375 Multiclips, and Black Matte Board for the Barndoors. Flooter Barndoors ($428.95) won't attach to my Olde Universals so I'll have to get creative. I have four P70 Fine Grids, so I can cut down a few to fit the Universal Fresnels. Repurposing what I have! Also I rewired my Black Incandescent FOBA Fresnel Spotlight and it now works good with 120V USA Bulbs. It came with a 220V 1000W lamp, that's just too HOT and too bright actually. I'll find the right bulb for it, 250W will be good for digital. Making something useful out of something I couldn't use when I bought it cheaply. I also bought one more Soonpho Optical Spot without the condenser lens and gobo blades, so now I have two with condenser and GB, and two without. The basic unit is $109 which is about as cheap as you can get, especially compared to the Wescotts. I adapt these from Godox mount to Broncolor Impact/Visatec. POOR MAN'S PECOLIGHT for micro lighting teeny tiny details up close. I have a complete set of different sized PINHOLES laser drilled (Ebay) which make these real useful for me for literally pinpoint lighting. Not like anything else I have, really. Got the idea from Karl Taylor in his excellent Pecolight comparison YouTube. ^^^

[Mal Paso]

Fascinating! Norman had some light pipes that attached to the Tri Lite spots, I will keep my eye out. I've used those before lighting complex machinery but they were tungsten not strobe.

Sunday, I made 5/8" stainless steel bushings for the last 3 heads. Norman sockets are 3/4, come with bushings which are all lost before the flash head ever gets to me. All my spuds are 5/8.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53209225472_6e38db68e1_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2p4VbXb)Kodak XX 120 D23 1to1 Plaubel Makina Back (https://flic.kr/p/2p4VbXb) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

First rolls freshly developed Eastman Double-X XX 120 in Plaubel Makina 6.5x9cm Film Back. Plaubel Peco Junior View Camera 150mm F9 Apo Ronar with Broncolor C200 Octobox 150 Lighting. D23 1:1 JOBO Multitank 5 (six roll capacity) Unicolor Uniroller. 12 minutes at 68F. Beefy looking negatives as I am used to with 35mm XX. These will all be easy to print with the usually XX qualities but in the superior larger format. Bravo to the Creator of this! More coming I like this film. Olde 6.5x9cm Plaubel Makina 120 Back is playing nice too :) Two at F22 and two at F16, to give myself a choice.

A Cinematographer Friend of mine commented "What is that that looks like it came off of Skylab ??". LOL Actually it's a FOBA 1000W Lamp Base, hacked to Broncolor Pulso Universal mount, with Broncolor Universal Snoot with homemade Grid. Mounted on a FOBA Combitube Light Stand with tri-leg base. Swiveling FOBA Arms let you put stuff exactly where you want it to be.

BTW be careful with Broncolor Snoots, which can cause nasty burns. Kevin Taylor got a very bad burn, when he placed his arm on one. Give it a wide berth!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQcY9g125Bg

[dxp]

...BTW be careful with Broncolor Snoots, which can cause nasty burns. Kevin Taylor got a very bad up and down burn, when he placed his arm on one. Give it a wide berth!

Oh I learnt this the other day when having a little play with one of the C200 monos with the snoot attached. Had it set to full power with the mod lamp on—just for a few minutes—popped a shot, switched the mod light off, and then 30 seconds later went to remove the snoot... :rolleyes:

Let's just say it was another 5 minutes or so before I tried again!

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53627698109_26c85b5252_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pGTYhD)18x24 8x10 Norma 300 Symmar Norma Auto Iris (https://flic.kr/p/2pGTYhD) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Here I'm using the Broncolor Balloon, Primo 1600J Ninety Degrees to the set, and an Octobox 150 with Primo 1600J Head at forty-five degrees camera left, set one stop brighter than the Balloon fill light. A silver reflector camera right, just out of the cameras view. Primo 2 Power pack mounted to Broncolor Senior Stand with wheels, I bought a pack holder from China that neatly attaches the pack at the base of the stand. It exactly fits the 1600J and 3200J Power Packs so, Nice. Hasselblad 500C/M with CFV16 Digital Back, 80mm black C T* Planar lens. F16 indicated, I bracketed and uses the frame that looked best on my computer. This is kind of like my olde large format portrait setup, upscaled with more power, Thanks to Broncolor. This is 8x10/18x24 Sinar Norma #2, with 300mm chrome Sinar Norma Aperture Control Board. Super Speedy to operate and a location camera I have used a lot in the past. Looking forward to getting back out there with it :)

[Mal Paso]

Lordie, What you want wid all dem bells and whistles. Can't be bothered to walk round the front of yo camera?


LOL

[MrFujicaman]

Oh I learnt this the other day when having a little play with one of the C200 monos with the snoot attached. Had it set to full power with the mod lamp on—just for a few minutes—popped a shot, switched the mod light off, and then 30 seconds later went to remove the snoot... :rolleyes:

Let's just say it was another 5 minutes or so before I tried again!

Go to Harbor Freight and buy some welding gloves.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Lordie, What you want wid all dem bells and whistles. Can't be bothered to walk round the front of yo camera? LOL

I've found that operating speed is important to me. Ever had perfect lighting change because you are slow up at the front of the camera? Not often for me. LOL

[Mal Paso]

I've found that operating speed is important to me. Ever had perfect lighting change because you are slow up at the front of the camera? Not often for me. LOL

Yep! Often it's hard to even get out of the car in time in changing storm light. I have a 45 MP image stabilized Nikon for that, don't even need the tripod. I can be ruthless. LOL

[Mal Paso]

Go to Harbor Freight and buy some welding gloves.

Harbor Freight lacks the refinement necessary for fine European strobes, might work on my Normans though.

[Daniel Unkefer]

I love Harbor Freight! I just threw out my Electric Scroll Saw, and broke my small Band Saw too. Gave the band saw to a neighbor, who fixed it! I just replaced both saws with brand new ones, back in business. Consider their power stuff throw away, and expendable. Really like their cheap hand tools too. My Broncolor stuff will just have to get over it LOL

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53636192195_645247dfd1_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pHDvhp)Homemade Barndoors FOBA Fresnel Spot 60W Appliance Bulb P70 Fine Grid (https://flic.kr/p/2pHDvhp) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I bought this FOBA Incandescent Fresnel Spot from a vendor in Germany for 99 Euros, never used brand new. Wasn't sure what I'd do with it, but here it is now. Attached two Manfrotto 375 Clips with Gaffer Tape (for now), the barndoors are black mount board. Been buying P70 Grids from Dodds in Cleveland, this is the P70 FINE Grid, cut down with scroll saw to press fit in front of the fresnel. Relamped the unit, here it has a 60W 120 Clear Appliance Bulb in it for now, I have ordered 250W 120V Clear and Frosted Photo Bulbs on Amazon, which will get me going using this for digital. BTW the Barndoors are completely adjustable (more so than the Modern Flooter $500 ones) and are quite effective in scrimming off excess light away from the centrally illuminated Fresnel spot. I also plan to adjust my three Blue Universal 1600J Fresnel Spots in just this same way. I might use JB Weld to attach the 375 clips to the sides of the unit for good, after I trim them down a bit.

[Mal Paso]

JB Weld? Harbor Freight? You're going to have old Bron spinin in his grave. LOL

[Daniel Unkefer]

Here's an excellent discussion of Fresnel Strobe Lighting by Karl Taylor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObyTIdAUtpk

[Mal Paso]

I had forgotten about the inverse shadow effect and why theater and movies love them. Now I'm going to have to get one. Thanks a bunch. lol

I was instructed in the pronunciation of fresnel by a dyed in the wool stage manager.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53651370565_1fa3901802_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pJZihr)Broncolor P70 Grid Sets and P70 Machined Cutout Discs (https://flic.kr/p/2pJZihr) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I've loaded up the truck on P70 Grids, thanks to Dodds Cleveland Thirty Bucks a piece. Now have three sets, plus extra fine grids to cut up for Frankenprojects. Fine, Medium, and Large. One of the most useful P70 Accessories I can think of. Also a set of custom made machined insertable P70 Metal Disc, super useful for close up use. Another cheap alternative to Pecolite, by adding diffusion. Bought the full P70 Diffusion kit too, and have ordered a set of P70 Barndoors from China. If they are good to use I will buy more.

Also ordered another Broncolor Pulso 2 1600J Power Pack, a $4800 unit for excellent price of $225. From a trusted user and in 100 percent functional unit. Infared controlled 1/3 or 1/10 stop increments, tons of bells and whistles. So now I have a cheap Pulso 2 backup.

Karl Taylor has another instructional video, on the importance of multiple Honeycomb Grids. Worth viewing!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn9fP7ZYZu0

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53653215051_c6fc649a08_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pK9KzV)Broncolor Pulso 2 strobe pack has arrived (https://flic.kr/p/2pK9KzV) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

This is EXACTLY what I have been talking about! A $4800 Broncolor Pulso 2 1600J (top of the line) power pack, from a friendly Commercial Photographer for $225. That's about 3% of original cost, so a good investment for me. This will be worked into my everyday setups. Happy Happy. Now I have two Pulso 2's. Actually, this is lighter than it looks. Stylish European Design. Uber safety features. LED readouts not LCD so unlikely to "poof".

[Mal Paso]

I don't know, it's got a touch pad instead of switches. It's a slippery slope, starts with microprocessors and soon you're up to your bleep in computer.

Is that white dome a slave? I suppose all the unsightly plugs are under the cover.

[interneg]

I don't know, it's got a touch pad instead of switches. It's a slippery slope, starts with microprocessors and soon you're up to your bleep in computer.

Is that white dome a slave? I suppose all the unsightly plugs are under the cover.

Don't assume that the seemingly more manual packs from the 303/404/606 etc series are any less electronic under the case (or easier to repair).

[dxp]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53653215051_c6fc649a08_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pK9KzV)Broncolor Pulso 2 strobe pack has arrived (https://flic.kr/p/2pK9KzV) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

This is EXACTLY what I have been talking about! A $4800 Broncolor Pulso 2 1600J (top of the line) power pack, from a friendly Commercial Photographer for $225. That's about 3% of original cost, so a good investment for me. This will be worked into my everyday setups. Happy Happy. Now I have two Pulso 2's. Actually, this is lighter than it looks. Stylish European Design. Uber safety features. LED readouts not LCD so unlikely to "poof".

Looks like you found yourself a decent copy there! I see these come up for sale pretty regularly over here and they rarely look as clean as that one, and are often missing the cover for the lamp sockets.

After months of watching the used markets I've finally managed to grab a "cheap" copy of a 4-door set of barndoors to suit P70 reflectors, with it delivered over the weekend. Now to find a second one that isn't falling apart or priced as high as your Pulso 2 generator above...

And speaking of P70 accessories, that's a nice stack of grids you've acquired further up!

[Daniel Unkefer]

Is that white dome a slave? I suppose all the unsightly plugs are under the cover.

Yes, and Yes. KHB can recap these strobes, would be VERY 'spensive. BTW Kevin says there is ONLY ONE manufacturer in the ENTIRE WORLD supplying replacement caps. Which includes all brands of studio strobes. I'm following his advise.

He quoted me $600 to recap my Olde Venerable C171 Monolight. I paid $40-$50 for each of mine decades ago. Meanwhile mine just keep chuggin' along. I am sentimentally attached to them. Maybe some day.

[Daniel Unkefer]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53662620885_da161f9dfd_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2pKYXBt)Broncolor Universal Projection Attachment (https://flic.kr/p/2pKYXBt) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Coming my way from Germany (same vendor who sold me Universal Fresnel Spots), the Broncolor Universal Projection Attachment, with another 1600J Universal Head. Offered to me for 99 Euros, so I snagged it up. A fore-runner of the Impaspot with 1600J power.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Looks like you found yourself a decent copy there! I see these come up for sale pretty regularly over here and they rarely look as clean as that one, and are often missing the cover for the lamp sockets. And speaking of P70 accessories, that's a nice stack of grids you've acquired further up!

Thanks dxp! I looked for another Pulso 2 pack for a while before settling on this one. BTW the cover lid being missing is a complete deal breaker for me. It's an important safety feature. When you lift the cover lid, it DISCHARGES THE CAPS. Also the way Broncolor cables attach to the pack, and more importantly how they are detached, minimizes the chances of you electrocuting yourself. One reason I went for Broncolor is their very important safety features.

And Yes, won't be needing any more P70 Grids (I think). LOL Thanks to Dodds, Broncolor Dealer in Cleveland.

[dxp]

Coming my way from Germany (same vendor who sold me Universal Fresnel Spots), the Broncolor Universal Projection Attachment, with another 1600J Universal Head. Offered to me for 99 Euros, so I snagged it up. A fore-runner of the Impaspot with 1600J power.

Hang on...I thought this looked familiar...I was watching this! You got a deal!

249230

[Daniel Unkefer]

Hang on...I thought this looked familiar...I was watching this! You got a deal! ATTACH=CONFIG]249230[/ATTACH]

Yep Sure did. I was surprised by their offer of 99 Euros! Kind of a no-brainer. This will also work great on my Olde C171 Monolights.

[dxp]

These Broncolor P70 Barndoors arrived today from China. Quality is very good! So I am making an offer for three more, $100 each. Broncolor brand Barndoors seem to be $350-$650 each on the used market. I think these will be more than adequate for my uses.


I've seen these advertised on eBay a few times...they seem to be a straight out counterfeit of the Bron ones. Do you have a genuine one to compare it to?

I managed to pick up a used 4-door Bron set recently for around 50€...I was pretty happy with that find.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Hi dxp,

Nope I don't have any Broncolor P70 Barndoors to use to compare. Fifty Euros is a great find, I've not seen priced in that range.