quick release plates

[Randy Redford]

I'm still looking for a suitable traveling head for my ebony 8 x 10 and am contemplating a ball head, but would like one with a quick release. My question is will the tightening knob for the quick release plates clear the bottom of the camera or will this be a continual problem. Any experience (good or bad) with B2, Markins or RRS? Thanks.

[Tom Hoskinson]

I use an Arca/Swiss Ballhead with RRS Clamp, and I have an RRS Plate mounted on the bottom of my (Wehman) 8x10. The tightening knob for the quick release plate (Clamp) easily clears the bottom of the camera.

[Dan_4341]

I have used a Wimberely P50 Arca style plate on my 8x10 camera, and Arca Swiss B1 head with the standard screw clamp, with no problem. The same should hold for the B2 and the RRS that you mention. The B2 is about twice as heavy as the B1 however (although the B2 is basically a 3-way head, which is advantageous for large view cameras. I tried one a couple of years ago but one of the axes didn't lock up tight enough and I returned it).

[Lee Hamiel]

Total clearance with an Arca-Swiss B2 with knob clamp on a Wisner 4x5 Tech & Szabad 4x5 using RRS plates.

Easily accessible & easy to tighten.

[Eric Leppanen]

I use a Kirk PZ-39 mounting plate (it is semi-custom and not listed on the Kirk web site) to mount my Ebony 8x10 to my Arca-Swiss B1 QR ballhead, and it works fine. This plate is about 13/16 of an inch thick, so there is plenty of clearance to operate the quick release tightening knob. It is roughly 3 1/4 inches square and while it attaches via only one 3/8 inch mounting screw, it has a rubber surface on the side pressing against the camera and I have not had any problem with twisting. Overall I have been very happy with it.

[Eric James]

I experienced nothing but frustration with an Arca Swiss B1. Arca Swiss was using a new supplier for one of their ballhead parts (calloettes I believe they were called) upon moving their plant to France a few years ago. I understand that this problem has been fixed but beware of used Arca Swiss ballheads from the late 1990s.

The RRS ballhead is the best I've used; it outshines the latest Arca Swiss balls, and the Kirk device by a considerable margin.

I use RRS plates on Ebony 4x5 cameras. The knob on my smaller Kirk ball does not interfere with camera positioning. The RRS head has a locking lever instead of a knob - the lever is actually a few mm below the clamp!

It would be nice if RRS would make custom plates for Ebony cameras.

[resummerfield]

"It would be nice if RRS would make custom plates for Ebony cameras"

Yes, I agree. However, RRS is now making "multi-purpose rails" in various lengths that work well on flat bed cameras. I tapped a second 1/4x20 mount in my Canham, and installed a 6-inch RRS multi-purpose rail with 2 screws. It's very solid and doesn't twist, and it works great on an Arca B-2 ball head.

[Tom Hoskinson]

The RRS plate that Bruce Wehman installed on my 8x10 Wehman Field Camer is the RRS #35. The RRS#35 mounting plate is 3.5 inches long and it is secured by two 1/4 20 screws. It is rock-solid, does not permit any twist and has plenty of clearance for my Arca-Swiss B1 Ballhead and RRS Clamp.

[John Hoang]

This guy sells Arca compatible plates on Ebay. Check his 'seller's other items' for different length.

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Lens-Plate-Arca-Swiss-Kirk-RRS-Wimberley-Acratech_W0QQitemZ7610588536QQcategoryZ30059QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Brian Ellis]

Kirk Enterprises sells a 4" x 4" quick release plate for use with an Arca style head. I used one on my Tachihara, it worked very well and as an added bonus it allowed me to slide the camera forward and backwards two or three inches in order to help keep the camera centered over the tripod head.

[Randy Redford]

Brian

Do you know the number of that plate. Kirk's website is somewhat hard to navigate for plates. No listing for large format. Thanks.

[Jeffrey Sipress]

Since access to the knob is difficult under a large format rig, I use this:

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/media/full_size/B2LR2_both.jpg

No knob and you just drop your camera mounted plate right in from the top, no more trying to align and slide in from the side while balancing a ten pound camera with one hand.

About plates, some of you are not getting how simple this is. You don't need a special model plate, or one for your specific camera or even one for a LF camera in general. Camera specific plates (typically for 35mm and MF) are shaped to fit the contours and features of those specific bodies. Some have pins to maintain alignment. For the flat bottom of your LF camera, all you need is a basic straight plate, generic of any particular model. Something around two inches long should do it.

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/body_plates/4x5/index.html

Some bottom plates on LF's may have another small hole next to the threaded hole for a pin that prevents rotation. That may be considered a special requirement, but you can always drill and pin a generic plate. Because I have a machine shop, I made a long strip of aluminum with the cross section of an Arca type plate. Whenever I need a plate for a new camera, lens, spotting scope (or my little Leica D Lux 2), or whatever, I cut a piece off and drill a mounting hole.