Intrepid 8x10 Mk III - Post your thoughts on design.

[Lachlan 717]

A few updates on my new Mk III 8x10:

*It came with the screws holding the ground glass clips in place bing loose. When I tried to tighten these, they were stripped. In addition, when I tried a Regal (not Regal II) holder, it did not bed in the groove. It seemed that the slot was either too close to the glass or not wide enough. To their ABSOLUTE CREDIT, Intrepid sent a replacement back that arrived from the UK to Australia in 4 days. Well done, Intrepid - great customer service.

*I purchased a 3D printed Sinar to Linhof adapter from a Canadian Seller on eBay. This is very high quality. It did come with square corners that didn’t fit the Intrepid’s rounded corners; however, under 5 minutes with a diamond nail file solved this and it is a great (Smaug) fit.

*I can focus my 120mm lens at infinity, even though the specs say 150mm minimum. I haven’t had a chance to check camera base ingress into the image and whether I can drop the bed. I have some doubt as the front standard is fixed, meaning longer minimum draw when the back standard is tilted backwards. Once we have a brighter day here (currently experiencing flooding), I’ll jump under the dark cloth and see how it looks

*I really like the rear screen magnetic hold design with one exception - it is very difficult to find a pry point to allow you to pressure off the back. I have sent through a design suggestion to alleviate this, so hope this is incorporated soon.

232086

*The rear focus knob feels a bit cheap and nasty in a lightweight polymer material, as, too, do the dual knobs on the front standard. Not close to being a deal breaker; just be aware of this.

*The front Bellow is glued slightly askew on the wooden frame. If you’re one of those people who need to straighten crooked pictures, this might not be the camera for you….

232087

*There is no beveled edge to the ground glass frame, making putting in/removing the film holder a bit painful. Again, I’ve passed this on to Intrepid as a suggested design improvement.

232088

[Lachlan 717]

232089

The 120mm focused at infinity. This would be easier with a recessed lens board if the base shows in the image and rear tilt/lowered base is required…
'
232090

The centre markings on the front standard REALLY need to be improved. This is small and located under the (aforementioned) low quality hardware.

[Lachlan 717]

The Sinar - Linhof lensbaord adapter and the post-filing corners

[otto.f]

Thanks for your comments, I’m just considering buying one. The few times a year I expect to work on 8x10 makes the beautiful Alpinist from Chamonix too expensive for me, I do not trust Stenopeika so much and the Gibellini Bellatrix was sort of discouraged by Gibellini themselves in favor of the ACN which is not on the website but costs around €3000…(?). So talking about a steady running business, Intrepid gives me more confidence. Just one point: Intrepid offers an adapter Sinar-Linhof themselves, so what you show here about that 3D printed one is just the result of your own sidestep.

[Lachlan 717]

The Intrepid one wasn’t available when I ordered this, and this was a bit cheaper as well.

[munz6869]

Lachlan - I have the Mark I, and am thinking about upgrading. My main issue with Mark I is the wobbly front standard, and the difficulty in locking tilt, rise/fall independently. Also, the bellows sag and I lose an inch of negative in portrait orientation with lots of front rise. Apart from these things, it's light and I can actually take it places without struggling, so I love it. How's the Mark III front standard perform?

Marc!

[Lachlan 717]

How's the Mark III front standard perform?

Marc!

Evening, Marc.

I think it’s pretty good. It gobbled up the biggest lens I tried today (120mm Super Angulon).

I think it would be fine for a big Plasmat (360mm).

Not sure it’ll take the 210mm Super Angulon, though!

One thing I have noticed is the front standard does feel like it’s lacking friction with the base. That is, it swings a bit too easily unless screwed down extremely tightly. I might consider sticking some 400 grit sandpaper to it at some point.

The little notches that indicate parallel are good. I think there’s an opportunity to cut an old credit card to fit them to speed the alignment process up as well as making it very precise. Hard to explain, but a simple process to make.

[munz6869]

Evening Lachlan!!

That's good - I have a Nikon 120mm f/4 and the massive Nikon 300mm f/5.6 - I ended up foregoing the Linhof adapter (as I wasn't really using those lenses on the little Wista) and popping both on Intrepid (Sinar-style) boards for better stability, which works well. To stop the front standard from moving on the bed, I put a sliver of gaffer's tape on the base - which seems to give just enough friction...

Marc!

[Lachlan 717]

I’m happy to catch up and show you the camera. No better way to get a gauge on it than handling it!

[munz6869]

A capital idea!! Actually, I did the same thing 14 years ago before I bought my shiny (at the time) new Wista, meeting Shane in the city who kindly brought his in for me to look at...

I'll send you a PM.

Marc!

[John Layton]

In addressing your "slippery" front standard issue...I would not use sandpaper. A piece of automotive gasket cork (the "cork-rubber matrix" type), contact-cemented to the underside of the front standard, can provide perfect "slip/grip" properties to help alleviate your issue.

Also...for a quick and effective solution to the bellows-sag issue - first rack the bellows out as far as the focussing mechanism will allow, then reel this back until the bellows reaches is maximum sag point, at which time you can experiment by gently grabbing the tops of various bellows pleats and drawing them forward to the front standard to see which pleat affords the best overall "anti-sag" property.

You can then glue (contact cement) a strip of material (fabric) to the backside of that same top pleat - and then when dry pull this strip forward to ascertain a good location at the front of this strip on which to glue/sew a "D" ring, which itself can then, when needed to help alleviate sag - be clipped over a round-headed, threaded screw affixed to the middle of the top of the front standard.

[Tin Can]

I love to tinker

I have fixed many LF Camera

I am sure I can fine tune my MK3

Many old camera bellows have hooks to hold a bellows UP

Easy peasy

[paulbarden]

I have the first iteration of the 8x10 Intrepid, and the bellows sag enough to intrude into the image area even when using a 12” lens at a few inches of extension. The material used for the bellows is too flaccid, imo

[Alan9940]

Intrepid offers an adapter Sinar-Linhof themselves, so what you show here about that 3D printed one is just the result of your own sidestep.

Intrepid may have redesigned this adapter since I bought mine a couple of years ago, but beware that the bottom molded-in "clips" that hold the bottom of a Technika style board barely, and I mean b-a-r-e-l-y protrude over the smaller lensboard. Personally, I'd be very nervous pointing the front of the camera down at something or carrying the camera over my shoulder with a big, heavy plasmat hanging off the front. I use small Fuji A and C series lenses on my Mk II and I still put a piece of gaffer's tape along the bottom edge because I just don't trust it.

[r.e.]

*I purchased a 3D printed Sinar to Linhof adapter from a Canadian Seller on eBay. This is very high quality.

Could you share the seller's name?

[SMBooth]

Couple of good tips and checks to make, I just ordered a 8x10 Mk3 to replace my 8kg Burke and James 8x10. Intrepid now sell the Linhof to Intrepid adaptor now so got one of them as all my lens are on Linhof boards.

[Peter De Smidt]

I contact cemented a piece of epdm rubber to the bottom of the front standard. I filed some finger holds to remove the back.

[Tin Can]

Customized!

I always tinker


I contact cemented a piece of epdm rubber to the bottom of the front standard. I filed some finger holds to remove the back.

[gdi]

I just received mine last week and I find it not too fiddle, but can note a couple of things as well.

Videos by early reviewers indicated that it came with a fresnel - which mine did not. Lachlan is spot on about removing the back - it is very difficult given the strength of the magnets - also be careful with the locking wheels/tabs, it is not readily apparent whether they are open or locked and I bent one trying to remove it when locked. I doubt they are needed, however. I found that a generic sinar style board was too thin to properly mount, but I fixed that by taping small strips of a credit card to the out side of the board where the latches are located. I had trouble seeing the alignment notches for the front rise so I taped it off and filled them with Wite-out - I’ll replace that with white or fluorescent paint when I have a chance.

I have only shot a few sheets - and realized I need that fresnel so I ordered it, I also have a pinhole and the adapter board coming soon. The shot below shows how I screwed my composition at the left edge due to the dim combination of my F9 G-Claron and the GG fall-off, while walking around on loose creek stones at dusk!

BTW, I bought just before they put up the new Website and significant price increase - so I think I got a good deal on my new "Green Monster".

232703


Also - here is my second shot playing with a one light self-portrait. I think I got lucky with my stand-in focus dummy ! ( Note my intent was to only show half my face - it wasn’t a composition problem! "Something about the duality of man, the Jungian thing")

232704

[paulbarden]

On November 9th I received an email from Intrepid announcing a remake of their web site, and included in that email was this line: "To celebrate the launch of the new website we are offering 10% off your next order - DISCOUNT CODE: NEW10". I don't know if this applies to anyone, or just those on their mailing list.

The fresnel is not included in any of the cameras, you have to purchase that separately as an add-on.

I already have the first iteration of the Intrepid 8x10, but I ordered the new version a week ago. As soon as the new one arrives, I will be offering my MK1 8x10 for sale (probably in the vicinity of $250 USD plus shipping). Its in fine shape and has not failed me in any way. I'll announce it when I have received my new camera.

[Peter De Smidt]

I just received mine last week ....

Great start!

File some finger grips for back removal. I used a quality Sinar to smallr board from Ebay for cheap which I mounted to the camera, and then I used Toyo 110 boards. Linhof technica boards would also work great, if that's what your other lenses are on....with the appropriate adapter, of course. With my Intrepid, the lens panel slide wasn't too confidence inspiring. If the screws were a hair too tight, it wouldn't work. Too loose, and ,well, not good. I put in the metal adapter board and tightened the Intrepid screws firmly. (Note: Firmly on a camera is not like a lug nut!)

[Lachlan 717]

If someone gets the Intrepid Sinar to Linhof adaptor, can you please advise if it allows the camera to be folded without force?

The one that I have doesn’t allow this; it protrudes about 5-10mm too far to comfortably close the camera.

[gdi]

I just received the adapter today - I’ll check tomorrow and report back.

[gdi]

If someone gets the Intrepid Sinar to Linhof adaptor, can you please advise if it allows the camera to be folded without force?

The one that I have doesn’t allow this; it protrudes about 5-10mm too far to comfortably close the camera.


Lachlan - I tested the adapter board and the camera will not close as easily with the adapter board installed. It stick out a bit and the sliding latch extends further out than the Front sliding latch and touches the focusing bed a bit sooner than it would without it.

I took a couple of pictures to illustrate.

232717

Closed with adapter:
232718

Closed with no board:
232719

[SMBooth]

Any change of someone posting a photo of the base of a 8x10 Mk3 with a tape measure so I can roughly scale off it. I want to see what size Arca Swiss plate l might put on.

Thanks

[Tin Can]

My Red bellows 8X10 III

Ships tomorrow

[gdi]

Any change of someone posting a photo of the base of a 8x10 Mk3 with a tape measure so I can roughly scale off it. I want to see what size Arca Swiss plate l might put on.

Thanks

Maybe these will help…

232952
232953

[Tin Can]

Big help for me too

Thank you

I will be adding anti twist hole

I expect mine this week

[Lachlan 717]

Any change of someone posting a photo of the base of a 8x10 Mk3 with a tape measure so I can roughly scale off it. I want to see what size Arca Swiss plate l might put on.

Thanks

Let me know if you want to see my camera. I can bring it into town if you want hands on.

[paulbarden]

FYI, Intrepid states that delivery of the MK3 8x10 camera is 6 to 8 weeks from purchase date. However, I bought one on Nov. 10, and it shipped 12 days later and I had it here 6 days after that. So, with luck, this is what you can expect from Intrepid these days!

And I must say, this design has improved significantly since the very first version. I consider it excellent value for the money. I bought mine with the fresnel installed, and this makes using my f6.8 Turner-Reich convertible a whole lot more pleasant. Highly recommended.

[SMBooth]

Maybe these will help…

232952
232953
Thanks, exactly what I was after.

[SMBooth]

Let me know if you want to see my camera. I can bring it into town if you want hands on.

Thanks for the offer, lm not in town much lately. Marc gave me a good run down on the changes and l have seen his. My Mk3 turn up yesterday, the Intrepid Len board adapter let you close the camera as long as you loosen the front standard. You also need to sand the corners of the adapter so it fit better, and file and little bit from the face where the tabs are to let the locking bit side completely across/down

[Tin Can]

I like the Giant front standard hole which will not obstruct any lens I can think of

[Certain Exposures]

Now that some of you have had the camera for a few years how do you feel about it? Would you recommend it for someone’s first 8x10? Or would a ~$1,500 Tachihara be a better choice despite the large price gap?