Welp, I did it, I ordered a lightweight 8x10

[ericantonio]

I did it! I'm replacing, sort of, my Kodak Master View that I carry in a Pelican case. Sometimes I think the pely case is heavier but I'm over the weight. The KMV + Pelly case is heavy. Plus a studio old Bogen tripod with one of them fancy Rational heads on them. I admit, maybe I wasn't so "rational" when I got it years ago.

Every time I travel, I feel like Frodo with all sorts of stuff dangling around me.

Now I'm in the market for a lightweight tripod. But I think my old Bogen 3021 would work with the Intrepid 8x10 II? I'm sure it will.

I'm jelly of you guys that can sling a tripod, and 8x10, with a lens on your shoulder and go tripping around. I want to be cool like you guys, not some guy with 100 pounds of gear in a garden cart. "Dad you coming? Dad you need help? Dad, maybe you should have just carried your iphone, dad dad? dad? are you okay? why are you lying on the ground?"

[Bernice Loui]

Bogen 3021... owned/used one for over three decades. Meh, it's sorta ok.

~With a Canon F1 35mm or EOS digital and modest lenses, reasonably good.

~With a Canon F1 35mm or EOS digital and BIG lenses (300mm f2.8, 500mm f4.5), vibrator and wobble_er. Not nearly stable enough.

~With the basic Hasselblad V, 100mm f3.5, PME, A12 back, reasonably ok.

~With the Linhof Technikardan 23s (6x9), Meh, again vibrator and wobble_er. Not nearly stable enough.

This is the Bogen 3021 with no center column (modified) and a Gitzo R2 pan/tilt.

No possible way the Bogen 3021 will be stable or vibration controlled enough for the Sinar Norma.

Have a Innorel CT80 series (32mm dia legs) Carbon Fiber tripod which is about equal in capacity to the Bogen 3021.. about half the weight, nearly identical performance to the Bogen 3021, Meh...

Most stable has been the Dutch Hill, old rectangular leg Davis & Sanford (before Tiffen ownership), big Gitzo and the wood Berlebach. Unescapable trade-off, weight and materials DO make a difference. Tripod weight rating have about nil real-world value.

Tripod head is another BIG factor. Avoid the center column any way possible.


Bernice

[ericantonio]

Awesome tips Bernice!! Thanks. I figure it won't work, but I also have a another studio bogen, don't know the model, it's the one below 3036. The 3036 is HEAVY and clumsy. I've worked with the Davis and Sanford tripods, they were nice. "Avoid center column". I'm noticing this at home, with my 3036, center column and cambo 8x10. Sometimes I like it, sometimes a pain. I'll check out some used CF tripods without center columns, I have plenty of time while I wait for the new 8x10

[Bernice Loui]

IMO, carbon fiber tripods are over rated, over priced, market appeal has much to do with lower weight, not superior performance.

Innorel has a RT90, 40mm leg tubes liked by the telescope folks lots for value.. No less weight than a similar capable tripod of non-carbon fiber.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8V8WWM/ref=emc_b_5_t

GItzo carbon fiber, over priced for what they offer. Gitzo & Manfrotto (once Bogen) are owned by the same roof.

Keep in mind any of these twist lock or cam lock (Bogen 3021 and the like) legs can and will get stuck up with fine sand, dirt and etc causing unexpected grief.

Bottom suggestion, get a Berlebach twin leg extension, no centr column woodiee. Direct from Berlebach.
https://www.berlebach.de/en/?bereich=firma

There are very real reasons why the serious telescope folks continue to use by choice high quality wood tripods, same with the surveying folks that also highly prefer wood and these folks have the test data proving good wood is stable in many ways.

Then tripod head becomes the question.


Bernice

[ericantonio]

IMO, carbon fiber tripods are over rated, over priced, market appeal has much to do with lower weight, not superior performance.

Innorel has a RT90, 40mm leg tubes liked by the telescope folks lots for value.. No less weight than a similar capable tripod of non-carbon fiber.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8V8WWM/ref=emc_b_5_t


Nice, 6.8 pound tripod.





GItzo carbon fiber, over priced for what they offer. Gitzo & Manfrotto (once Bogen) are owned by the same roof.


I did not know this!!



Keep in mind any of these twist lock or cam lock (Bogen 3021 and the like) legs can and will get stuck up with fine sand, dirt and etc causing unexpected grief.

Yep have had sand all over my tripods. Yuck.



Bottom suggestion, get a Berlebach twin leg extension, no centr column woodiee. Direct from Berlebach.
https://www.berlebach.de/en/?bereich=firma


There are very real reasons why the serious telescope folks continue to use by choice high quality wood tripods, same with the surveying folks that also highly prefer wood and these folks have the test data proving good wood is stable in many ways.

Then tripod head becomes the question.


Bernice

Thanks again! Lots to digest today in between working.

[Greg]

Personally like and use a BENRO TAD28C Adventure carbon fiber tripod. I prefer flip leg locks to twist leg locks. I could easily do without the center column but not worth fabricating a non-column top for the tripod (too many other more priority projects in the works). Head is an older Linhof 77mm Leveling Head.

[ericantonio]

Personally like and use a BENRO TAD28C Adventure carbon fiber tripod. I prefer flip leg locks to twist leg locks. I could easily do without the center column but not worth fabricating a non-column top for the tripod (too many other more priority projects in the works). Head is an older Linhof 77mm Leveling Head.

Ohhh, 3.2 pounds!! That's what I'm talkin' bout!

[Greg]

Ohhh, 3.2 pounds!! That's what I'm talkin' bout!

FYI: Older Linhof 77mm Leveling Head weighs 1.3 pounds and works quite well with my 8x10 Chamonix.

[erie patsellis]

FYI: Older Linhof 77mm Leveling Head weighs 1.3 pounds and works quite well with my 8x10 Chamonix.

As do many of the older cine tripods with either 75mm or 100mm bowls, I use a Lisand 7jr with a baco tilt head for my Sinar, dug the tripod out of the scrap heap at school and found the tilt head online for $30.

[Havoc]

Carbon fiber tripos may seem lighter on paper. Problem is the heads are not a single grain lighter and they end up making the weight. At the end you have saved less weight then you thought you would and spend more.

I have a Berlebach and it is the least stable tripod I have. Clumsy as can be as well. Only thing I like about it is the thing that let you level the head. You need a pair of vise-grip to get those legs really solid fixed.

My best tripod is some video contraption that weighs a ton and get rarely used as a consequence.

[r.e.]

Gitzo & Manfrotto (once Bogen) are owned by the same roof.

Yes, Videndum (https://videndum.com), a publicly traded UK company, owns both Gitzo and Manfrotto. It also owns Sachtler, OConnor and Vinten. Plus a lot more: Videndum Brands (https://videndum.com/about-us/our-brands/)

One page list of Videndum brands:

229079

[letchhausen]

I had the Intrepid first release. I found that to be too tweaky to use and sold it. I hear they've fixed a lot of that stuff on the new ones.

My experiences with 8x10 taught me that vibration control becomes a bigger deal. So I decided against a lightweight camera and bought a Calumet C1. That thing is rock solid. I have a Gitzo carbon fiber tripod ( the current model is Gitzo GT3543XLS - no center column) that I use with my 4x5. Which is fine with that camera, but I do use the Arca Swiss Z2+ which is a beefy head that weighs as much as the tripod, together is 10 pounds. I had a lighter weight head, but that thing wasn't stable. Because weight is stability. Perhaps the Gitzo will work with the Intrepid. For myself, my current tripod/head combo won't work with the Calumet (14 pounds). For the C1 I'm looking at getting a Ries tripod and head because weight is your friend. And wood is stability.

[r.e.]

Just want to say that Eric's first post gave me a laugh.

I use a carbon fibre Gitzo and a wooden Ries to support an Arca-Swiss F-Line Classic in 4x5 and 8x10 configurations.

The current Gitzo tripod that comes closest to mine in specs (mine is no longer made) is the GT3533LS (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1328244-REG/gitzo_gt3533lsus_systematic_tripod_ser_3_3s.html). It is a Systematic Series 3 tripod with no centre column. For me, Series 3 is robust enough, but some people prefer a Series 4 or even Series 5.

The Gitzo can be paired with a levelling base, which I like a lot and is very cost-effective, or with any tripod head that takes a 3/8" tripod screw.

My Ries tripod is a J100 (https://www.riestripod.com/product/the-j100-tripod/). The J100 works for me, but Ries recommends its heavier A100 (https://www.riestripod.com/product/the-a100-tripod/) for 8x10 and some photographers no doubt agree. I've paired the Ries with the company's J250 Double Tilt Head (https://www.riestripod.com/product/the-j250-head/).

I like the Ries for its feel, for the fact that individual legs can be set at angles that are impossible with a carbon fibre tripod, and because the Double Tilt Head is a pleasure to use and rock solid.

My Gitzo is also very well made, and it is significantly lighter. With a levelling base, it's also cheaper. There are a number of Gitzo competitors, a few of which appear to be good value. For example, FLM tripods are not well-known, but they are said to be well-made. Regardless of which carbon fibre brand one chooses, I would suggest a tripod that copies Gitzo's Systematic Series specs. Ones that do, which is most of them, say so in their marketing. The reason is that Gitzo's Systematic specs are used for many accessories. A 75mm half ball made by Benro will be cheaper than, and fit the same as, a 75mm half ball made by Gitzo.

I get sticker shock every time I look at the prices of this stuff. There's a lot to be said for second-hand.

For me, this sums up the tradeoffs perfectly:


I'm jelly of you guys that can sling a tripod, and 8x10, with a lens on your shoulder and go tripping around. I want to be cool like you guys, not some guy with 100 pounds of gear in a garden cart. "Dad you coming? Dad you need help? Dad, maybe you should have just carried your iphone, dad dad? dad? are you okay? why are you lying on the ground?"

:) :) :) :)

[letchhausen]

Since I live in Seattle, when the time comes, I'll be taking a ferry to Bremerton to get it from Ries and getting that 10% discount. I also like the idea of buying something from a company here, as opposed to some global conglomerate. But I won't be traveling with that thing. So sayeth my back.

[interneg]

Series 5 Gitzo, preferably one of the metal ones. Just a pity that that the G515/ G1515 are pretty rare these days. Even a Gitzo Giant + head + average 8x10 isn't that enormously heavy if you are even moderately fit & have a clue about how to get the thing on your shoulder and keep it there. Just be aware of your circle of destruction when you turn/ stop.

I still wouldn't be sticking a big 8x10 monorail on one though, not least because if you are going any distance carrying the thing without a crew of assistants you probably aren't working with the sort of subject matter (or AD) that demands you carry a camera-pretzel-in-potentia, no matter the bizarre hypothetical demands of camera movements some on here seem determined to make.

[letchhausen]

Yes, it's good to think about what one can accomplish with such a camera. My Ebony 4x5 suffices for traveling and general use. But I'm not doing that with 8x10. So I identified certain use cases for getting one. I have just enough space to do contact prints at home, so a contact printable negative appealed to me. Since I got the camera I've been experimenting with RA-4 paper negatives and those I can develop at home easily. But I'm not printing from that negative, the negative is the end result. I think our physical relationship to the tools we use affects how we see and think about the work we're doing. So I see the 8x10 as a tool for specific ends. But I feel it requires concomitant equipment and for the C1, that's a bigass wooden tripod and heavy-weight head.

[ericantonio]

Yes, it's good to think about what one can accomplish with such a camera. My Ebony 4x5 suffices for traveling and general use. But I'm not doing that with 8x10. So I identified certain use cases for getting one. I have just enough space to do contact prints at home, so a contact printable negative appealed to me. Since I got the camera I've been experimenting with RA-4 paper negatives and those I can develop at home easily. But I'm not printing from that negative, the negative is the end result. I think our physical relationship to the tools we use affects how we see and think about the work we're doing. So I see the 8x10 as a tool for specific ends. But I feel it requires concomitant equipment and for the C1, that's a bigass wooden tripod and heavy-weight head.

I totally agree with you. Right now, I bought an Epson P700 and want to make a bunch of prints. I find it hard to find binders and binders and boxes and boxes of old negs. Glad I wrote down the general information on them. These are 35mm and 120s. LF, 8x10 in particular, seem so much easier to find, just old them up to the light and bingo! You found the right one.

I get you with the space/contacts at home thing. I'm down to a tiny place and I do all my 8x10 processing in the bathtub with double light tight curtains on the outside of the door.

[Two23]

J
My Ries tripod is a J100 (https://www.riestripod.com/product/the-j100-tripod/). The J100 works for me, but Ries recommends its heavier A100 (https://www.riestripod.com/product/the-a100-tripod/) for 8x10 and some photographers no doubt agree. I've paired the Ries with the company's J250 Double Tilt Head (https://www.riestripod.com/product/the-j250-head/).




I have a Kodak 2d 8x10, as well as Gundlach Korona 5x7 and Chamonix 4x5. I also have the Ries J100 with J250-2 head and a Gitzo 300 series (1325) carbon fiber tripod. My experiences are the Ries is perfect for the Kodak 2D, good with the Korona 5x7, and overkill for anything else. I think a used Gitzo 1325 would easily handle an Intrepid 8x10 as they are very light, but with one caveat. The real issue isn't the weight of the camera, but resistance to wind. An 8x10 has a lot of surface area. While I do think a 300 Gitzo would hold the camera, it is a relatively light tripod and I wouldn't trust it if the wind was something you notice. That's why I stick with teh Ries tripod here on the Northern Plains. It has enough mass to resist being blown over. I also have a Berlebach and while it's a good tripod, I don't feel it's quite as good as the Ries. It would be a better choice if you lived in Europe as I suspect it would a bit cheaper though.


Kent in SD

[neil poulsen]

What you say about down-weighting the tripod is true. I had the next model after a 3036, and it was just as heavy. Of course, as one might expect, the legs were heavier than the 3039 head that I had. (Great head, though.) But after I down-weighted to a CF tripod, the head was significantly heavier than the CF tripod.

My solution was to get a Arca Swiss D4 head that weighs a little less than half the tripod. (1.8 lbs, versus 3.86lbs.) Of course, that was months ago, and I'm still paying installments. But it was worth it, given the build quality and versatility of the head.

[Sal Santamaura]

"Lightweight 8x10" is an excellent description of my Phillips Compact II. They do come somewhat lighter than that, but not much. After trying a lot of different support combinations, I established that leverage and vibration are significantly more important in 8x10 than for smaller view camera formats, even when the camera is light. This is what I ended up with:


https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?127616-Can-ball-head-weight-ratings-be-trusted&p=1299272&viewfull=1#post1299272

It's been adequately stable holding the Phillips under any environmental conditions that I'm willing to personally be in, and is a good compromise weight of around 8.5 pounds total (legs, head and panning clamp). I've found the damping of carbon fiber legs to be greater than wood and vastly better than aluminum, something important if any wind is blowing.

Now the only challenge would be finding a Burzynski head. :)

[r.e.]

I also have the Ries J100 with J250-2 head and a Gitzo 300 series (1325) carbon fiber tripod.

In post #13, I said that I was providing the model of the current Gitzo closest to mine because mine is no longer made. Mine is holding up my 8x10 in the phone snap below. You may recognise it. It's a G1325 MK2 :)

I don't photograph in wind enough that I'd purchase a heavier tripod just to cover off that eventuality. In any event, I have the option of using the Ries tripod and head, which weigh 4.4kg (9.7lb). Or I can forget about using my Gitzo with a levelling base, and use a head with some mass to it. The setup in the photo pairs the Gitzo with a Miller CX6 fluid head, which weighs 2.2kg (4.9lb). Together, the Gitzo and Miller actually weigh a bit more than the Ries.

When it comes to wind, my concern is that an 8x10 bellows can wind up acting like a sail. If that's a prospect, I'd be considering ways to address the problem that go beyond using tripod legs that are a kilo heavier. Is using Ries A100 legs instead of J100 legs an answer to my bellows acting like a sail? I wouldn't count on it.

But I think that you raise an important point, which is to consider local conditions when purchasing a tripod. I don't doubt that there are photographers who have good reasons for using a heavier Gitzo or Ries than what I use.

229091

[r.e.]

Something that hasn't been mentioned yet. The Intrepid 8x10 MK2 weighs 2.5kg (5.5lb). A fresnel screen is extra, weight not stated. Maximum bellows extension is 550mm.

[LabRat]

Another tripod issue to be aware if when using big, bulky, heavy cameras...

Am putting finishing touches on my 8X10 restoration camera, and needed to put it on a tripod, but didn't bother to pull out my heavy shooting tripods, and just grabbed my old Majestic single strut legs pod to hold up camera (on mechanic's lift)... Feet were the rubber tips and floor was semi-smooth concrete... Mounted camera on it and had the leg spreader locks snug but not tight, but when I was tweaking on camera, the legs started to shimmy/shake/dance/spread outward where the spreader locks barely stopped this weird motion... I grabbed camera and stopped this, but it happened again later... It seems tips without true friction or secure spreader locks, this "dance" could go out of control, and I didn't turn my back on this set-up until I finished my tasks!!!

Moral here is if tripod is on a smoother surface (like concrete, marble, indoors etc), better have a good spreader system, or old cameramen would use a cord or thin chain between legs to restrain them... And there still can be slippage, so be careful!!!

When buying a tripod, be sure the spreader system locks/works well, and don't be afraid to add other external leg restrainers if there's any doubt!!! ;)

Steve K

[ericantonio]

I had the Intrepid first release. I found that to be too tweaky to use and sold it. I hear they've fixed a lot of that stuff on the new ones.



I heard that also. But I'm used to working with old wonky ass C2's and old ass Deardorffs back in the late 80's. We literally had to ductape them and A clamp the sh** out of them. They got used 10 hours a day by different people at the studio.

Even today, with my Combo, just out of habit, I don't take chances. I put a little black gorilla tape on the lensboards and back in case I pick it up or it tilts accidentally on the tripod and *CRASH* there goes your lens and board. I've seen it happen before. Yikes. Yah, knobs work great and stuff, but hey, sometimes you forget to tighten something down. It happens.



My experiences with 8x10 taught me that vibration control becomes a bigger deal. So I decided against a lightweight camera and bought a Calumet C1. That thing is rock solid. I have a Gitzo carbon fiber tripod ( the current model is Gitzo GT3543XLS - no center column) that I use with my 4x5. Which is fine with that camera, but I do use the Arca Swiss Z2+ which is a beefy head that weighs as much as the tripod, together is 10 pounds. I had a lighter weight head, but that thing wasn't stable. Because weight is stability. Perhaps the Gitzo will work with the Intrepid. For myself, my current tripod/head combo won't work with the Calumet (14 pounds). For the C1 I'm looking at getting a Ries tripod and head because weight is your friend. And wood is stability.
[/quote]

Agree with you here, I have a Cambo Legend which is an amazing piece of aluminum and knobs, and precise control. And it holds my gigantic 19" Wolly process lens like a baby holding tight to your finger.

I just want something to carry when I go camping, or go to bike events (I'm a cyclist) and I want to be able to carry it around, maybe in a backpack or something. And for 500 bucks USD, I think it fits within my budget.

[ericantonio]

Something that hasn't been mentioned yet. The Intrepid 8x10 MK2 weighs 2.5kg (5.5lb). A fresnel screen is extra, weight not stated. Maximum bellows extension is 550mm.

cinqo pounds! And a lightweight tripod about ocho with a head, okay less than 10 with a head. So that's 15. Plus a few more for a lens. So under 20 pounds.

Not bad. My old job when I was younger was carrying dang Speedotrons packs around NYC. Not a stranger to carrying heavy photo gear but I'm over it now. Ha.

Someday someone will 3d print or make an entire Carbon Fiber 8x10 with graphene bellows.

[ericantonio]

Another tripod issue to be aware if when using big, bulky, heavy cameras...

Am putting finishing touches on my 8X10 restoration camera, and needed to put it on a tripod, but didn't bother to pull out my heavy shooting tripods, and just grabbed my old Majestic single strut legs pod to hold up camera (on mechanic's lift)... Feet were the rubber tips and floor was semi-smooth concrete... Mounted camera on it and had the leg spreader locks snug but not tight, but when I was tweaking on camera, the legs started to shimmy/shake/dance/spread outward where the spreader locks barely stopped this weird motion... I grabbed camera and stopped this, but it happened again later... It seems tips without true friction or secure spreader locks, this "dance" could go out of control, and I didn't turn my back on this set-up until I finished my tasks!!!

Moral here is if tripod is on a smoother surface (like concrete, marble, indoors etc), better have a good spreader system, or old cameramen would use a cord or thin chain between legs to restrain them... And there still can be slippage, so be careful!!!

When buying a tripod, be sure the spreader system locks/works well, and don't be afraid to add other external leg restrainers if there's any doubt!!! ;)

Steve K

That's some good tips!

[ericantonio]

One of the reasons why I buy less than ideal stuff, is that I've mentioned before, I worked with A LOT of 8x10s back in the 80's. These were studio settings. Imagine working at a garage and using house tools. Not so great shape, and you got to do what you got to do. I've learned a lot of these guys makeshift, DIY (before DIY was a real term I guess) on how to get stuff working.

What I've learned:

1. Tape anything that can and will fall off (you may be working with a camera that you are not familiar with)
2. A-clamp that flatbed so you don't get "creep" focus especially with working with tabletop setups
3. Make you own gobos
3. Make your own lightstands with old paint can, a 1X piece of wood, and an quickcrete
4. Tape the legs to the studio floor, someone will eventually trip on it
5. Tape all the extension cords to the floor
6. Tape the tops of 8x10 film holders, most of the time, the locking thing is broken off and nothing worse than handing a holder to someone only for the slide to come loose. Oops.
7. when in doubt, ductape the connections on tripods too. These are old, not yours, belongs to the studio and has seen some sh**, so tape it

Most of these guys are working on 2 or 3 tabletop or room sets and going back and forth so they absolutely positively can't have anything move, fall, tripped on (me!, that eric assistant is always tripping on stuff!) while going back and forth different set ups. Usually my job is to set up, make everything rigid and not move, and he'll move from set to set. If he thinks is good, I'll take a bunch of light readings, take the shot while he is working on next set. It then gets processed inhouse lab (yah, we had a E6 lab in house) and then look and determine the wratten filter to be used. And the filters, hahahah, I kid you not, we taped them on right in front of the lens.

All these I learned cause they need to get the shot, get paid, and buy booze. Priorities man. Not like the studio is gonna buy new holders or a new tripod head. It'll be "ummm work with what you got, it still works".


And it works, and I've seen our work in magazine, boxes, billboards, galleries. And I can remember heck! The shutter on that lens wasn't even working and we had to do 30 pops on the speedotron.

I guess my rule of thumb is "make it work dumdum"

[Bernice Loui]

Step in spiked tripod foot adds stability, this is the foot on the Dutch Hill tripod.
229102

Part of the tripod set up is to stomp them into the soil/dirt/sand to add stability if such a surface is available. One of the absolute perks with a surveyor tripod.
229103

Stainless steel flip latches on the Dutch Hill tripod legs. Tripod is made of composite, fiber reinforced plastic and stainless steel hardware. No corrosion issues, environment and weather tolerant, very abuse tolerant, stable and all that... trade off, not light weight.
229104

229105


There is no "free film" just trade offs with a huge dose of "make it work"...


Bernice

[ericantonio]

Step in spiked tripod foot adds stability, this is the foot on the Dutch Hill tripod.
229102

Part of the tripod set up is to stomp them into the soil/dirt/sand to add stability if such a surface is available. One of the absolute perks with a surveyor tripod.
229103

Stainless steel flip latches on the Dutch Hill tripod legs. Tripod is made of composite, fiber reinforced plastic and stainless steel hardware. No corrosion issues, very abuse tolerant, stable and all that... trade off, not light weight.
229104

229105


There is no "free film" just trade offs with a huge dose of "make it work"...


Bernice

NICE!!! I've always read someting about "get surveryor's tripods" but McGuyvering the head seems to be a pain.

[Bernice Loui]

Surveyor tripods have 5/8-16 threaded standard.. adapters to 3/8 and other are easily available and very common.
https://www.tigersupplies.com/Products/58-to-38-Tripod-Thread-Adapter-for-Laser-Scanners__NED061837.aspx

Moderate weight, low cost wood surveyor tripod would be something like a Leica GST101 (about 12 pounds, made in C, low $ and..) $130 USD.
https://www.allenprecision.com/leica-gst101-wooden-tripod?gclid=CjwKCAjwoMSWBhAdEiwAVJ2ndooOBI31fAfTsPe_3JJnWGWpKdxRY3b9Brdghd7zn9zQssylbeaE4hoCJlUQAvD_BwE

Compare this to a $1000+ carbon fiber Gitzo legs only.. no thanks.

Guess which tripod is going to be a LOT more stable, abuse tolerant, long term durable, reliable and .... at significantly lower cost.


Bernice






NICE!!! I've always read someting about "get surveryor's tripods" but McGuyvering the head seems to be a pain.

[Peter De Smidt]

One of the reasons why I buy less than ideal stuff, is that I've mentioned before, I worked with A LOT of 8x10s back in the 80's. These were studio settings. Imagine working at a garage and using house tools. Not so great shape, and you got to do what you got to do. I've learned a lot of these guys makeshift, DIY (before DIY was a real term I guess) on how to get stuff working.

What I've learned:

1. Tape anything that can and will fall off (you may be working with a camera that you are not familiar with)
2. A-clamp that flatbed so you don't get "creep" focus especially with working with tabletop setups
3. Make you own gobos
3. Make your own lightstands with old paint can, a 1X piece of wood, and an quickcrete
4. Tape the legs to the studio floor, someone will eventually trip on it
5. Tape all the extension cords to the floor
6. Tape the tops of 8x10 film holders, most of the time, the locking thing is broken off and nothing worse than handing a holder to someone only for the slide to come loose. Oops.
7. when in doubt, ductape the connections on tripods too. These are old, not yours, belongs to the studio and has seen some sh**, so tape it

Most of these guys are working on 2 or 3 tabletop or room sets and going back and forth so they absolutely positively can't have anything move, fall, tripped on (me!, that eric assistant is always tripping on stuff!) while going back and forth different set ups. Usually my job is to set up, make everything rigid and not move, and he'll move from set to set. If he thinks is good, I'll take a bunch of light readings, take the shot while he is working on next set. It then gets processed inhouse lab (yah, we had a E6 lab in house) and then look and determine the wratten filter to be used. And the filters, hahahah, I kid you not, we taped them on right in front of the lens.

All these I learned cause they need to get the shot, get paid, and buy booze. Priorities man. Not like the studio is gonna buy new holders or a new tripod head. It'll be "ummm work with what you got, it still works".


And it works, and I've seen our work in magazine, boxes, billboards, galleries. And I can remember heck! The shutter on that lens wasn't even working and we had to do 30 pops on the speedotron.

I guess my rule of thumb is "make it work dumdum"

As someone who's worked in a big studio, this list made me smile. Oh...and I've also schlepped a ton of Speedotron blackline gear around. There was no need to go to a gym to lift weights....

[ericantonio]

Surveyor tripods have 5/8-16 threaded standard.. adapters to 3/8 and other are easily available and very common.
https://www.tigersupplies.com/Products/58-to-38-Tripod-Thread-Adapter-for-Laser-Scanners__NED061837.aspx

Moderate weight, low cost wood surveyor tripod would be something like a Leica GST101 (about 12 pounds, made in C, low $ and..) $130 USD.
https://www.allenprecision.com/leica-gst101-wooden-tripod?gclid=CjwKCAjwoMSWBhAdEiwAVJ2ndooOBI31fAfTsPe_3JJnWGWpKdxRY3b9Brdghd7zn9zQssylbeaE4hoCJlUQAvD_BwE

Compare this to a $1000+ carbon fiber Gitzo legs only.. no thanks.

Guess which tripod is going to be a LOT more stable, abuse tolerant, long term durable, reliable and .... at significantly lower cost.


Bernice

AWESOME links!!! Thanks!

[r.e.]

Moderate weight, low cost wood surveyor tripod would be something like a Leica GST101 (about 12 pounds...)

To be exact, 5.7kg/12.6lb + a few ounces for the 5/8" to 3/8" adapter. Plus a solid tripod head.

Just what the doctor ordered for an Intrepid 8x10 that weighs 2.5kg (5.5lb) :)

From Eric's first post: "I want to be cool like you guys, not some guy with 100 pounds of gear in a garden cart."

How much do 18 year old porters cost? :)

[ericantonio]

To be exact, 5.7kg/12.6lb + a few ounces for the 5/8" to 3/8" adapter. Plus a solid tripod head.

Just what the doctor ordered for an Intrepid 8x10 that weighs 2.5kg (5.5lb).

From Eric's first post: "I want to be cool like you guys, not some guy with 100 pounds of gear in a garden cart."

How much do 18 year old porters cost? :)

OMG! 12.6?! Turns out I have a Bogen 3051, not a 3036. A 3051 also weighs 12 pounds. Plus my Rational #3? or something (the one with the longer handles). I need more creatine to carry everything around.

[Axelwik]

Old Ries C tripod for the 5x7, Berlebach for the 8x10, both wood and very stable and vibration-free. No center column. The Ries is light enough to strap to my camera backpack.

[Bernice Loui]

Defocusing from the weight of the tripod thing... Other stuff to consider:

~Number of 8x10 film holders to become "mobile", each 8x10 film holder weights about 700grams or ~1.5 pounds = ?

~Lenses on lens boards to be used with this 8x10 camera, total weight all added up = ?

~Dark cloth or similar GG viewing device, total weight all added up = ?

~Light meter, GG loupe, tape measure (bellows factor if needed), cable release, B&W contrast filters and holders, total weight all added up = ?

~Case for this 8x10 outfit and other misc, total weight all added up = ?????_?

Get a hiking or trail cart with wheels... why "carry" this outfit and all else related to these endeavors?
Once wheels are involved, few extra pounds are not gonna make That much difference..


Bernice

[j.e.simmons]

What kind of weight can these surveyors tripods hold? One of the laser thingies the surveyors use seems to be about 12-pounds. I don’t think that’s enough for 8x10, is it?

[Bernice Loui]

Typically 50 pounds or more depending on the specific tripod.. Most surveyor tripods weight in at 16 pounds for wood or wood/composite with some just past 20 pounds.
https://www.baselineequipment.com/how-to-choose-surveying-tripods


Then there Astronomy telescope tripods like the Berlebach BIG planet, weights 12Kg or 26.5 pounds, rated to support 100Kg or 220 pounds:
https://www.berlebach.de/en/?bereich=details&id=350

Weight of the whopper 8x10 camera might be _?_ pounds, then moving to ULF camera which could easily approach 50 pounds, maybe not 220 pounds.


IMO, weight capacity is a "nil" factor, stability, vibration control, toughness in difficult environments and weather, bash-ability (toss and beat around during transport) are factors often not that considered for a tripod. The big Gitzo that has been "used" lots in years past has a LOT of missing paint and not so good looking fittings any more.. Same with the Bogen 3021.. Tripods are to be "used" and not pampered..


Bernice




What kind of weight can these surveyors tripods hold? One of the laser thingies the surveyors use seems to be about 12-pounds. I don’t think that’s enough for 8x10, is it?