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View Full Version : what bright! LED bulbs are you using inside a softbox?



ericantonio
27-Jun-2022, 11:26
Hola, I'm currently using that corncob LED bulb for my cheapo softboxes. But wondering if you guys are using brighter ones. This one is okay, I really have to get within 2 feet of something to get a normal exposure.

maltfalc
27-Jun-2022, 14:05
i use cobs, not bulbs.

Ulophot
27-Jun-2022, 18:10
I have been looking at the SmallRig white light model. I have put away my studio strobes but would like some continuous light for certain situations when I need a powerful light on location. The specs for output and a number of competent reviews have been very positive. The price is attractive.

ericantonio
27-Jun-2022, 20:47
I have been looking at the SmallRig white light model. I have put away my studio strobes but would like some continuous light for certain situations when I need a powerful light on location. The specs for output and a number of competent reviews have been very positive. The price is attractive.

Interesting, checking it out.

LabRat
27-Jun-2022, 21:55
Depends what you are shooting and from how far away...

I shoot a lot of tabletop with a lower wattage CFL or LED bulb in darkened areas, and easy to get more light by exposing longer... Low heat better for subject and my head close to light...

High wattage hot lights can be dangerous in confined spaces, but the brightest before strobe...

For people, strobe probably best because if set is too bright, sitter's start to squint and fatigue early...

Far away, you need the big guns of massive amounts of light or smaller formats that can expose lower light easier...

Steve K

Ulophot
28-Jun-2022, 07:48
Perhaps I should qualify my interest in the SmallRig 120.

My interest is B&W natural (as much as possible) light portraits, preferably in 4x5, on location, which frequently means interiors. I use HP5 at 200 or 400, 800 if the light and environment present an exceptionally low-range and flat subject.

I prefer not to make the main light artificial, and I can often manage down to a 1-second exposure without problems arising from subject blur.

The 120 claims full power as 5,000+ lux at a meter, without the reflector, which boosts the level by several stops. The "bare bulb" level is the roughly 1/60 @ f/5.6 with ISO 100. At EI 200 and, say, 6 feet with bounce or diffusion to use the light as fill, let's add the stop of speed but then subtract 2 stops for the added distance and 2 stops for the bounce/diffusion, and then stop down to f/16, up potentially 1 second -- but that's considering the light as the key light. So, using, for example, a shutter speed of 1/2 sec. for the existing natural light as key, I would still have plenty of leeway to dial down the 120, or diffuse or bounce it over a larger surface of greater distance, not to mention using the reflector, which would pump in a lot more effective light.

The wattage (150W max) is low enough to use a compact 16- or 18-gauge extension cord; the unit itself is just over 5 lbs. Battery power can be purchased.For me, it looks like a very portable way to deal with challenges on location.

Tin Can
28-Jun-2022, 14:05
I have 4 PC Buff Einstein, I really prefer strobe and they dial way down. They can run on AC from the wall, my tiny quiet Honda Generator and batteries

I have been buying a few Small Rig and Ulanza LED with internal battery and LED

Very good for still life, macro, even outside with handheld DIGI

Just got 2 generic Snoot with filters and grid for the Einsteins

I buy light every few years and have other, now retired but ready

TOTA set, 3 Pack lamps, 48" fluorescent DIY

and a ton of Flash bulbs with their handles/reflectors

I love my 2 8X8' V-Cards and my wall backgrounds on a manual roller set

All Johnny Cash style

One part at a time, made his Cadillac song

ericantonio
28-Jun-2022, 22:18
I used to work with a lot of speedetrons, then at home, I did a lot of FL bulbs, now I'm doing corncob LED's. I use them for pretty much everything. Small tabletop, fun stuff with people, but I can check out that smallrig stuff. Looks interesting. I do like the LED tech. I have them all around the house now, and little flashlights, and on my bicycle. Also, I got that UV lighbox that I stripped out my FL bulbs and replaced it with strips of LED. For future alt printing.

Tin Can
29-Jun-2022, 03:30
Ditto

Great!


I used to work with a lot of speedetrons, then at home, I did a lot of FL bulbs, now I'm doing corncob LED's. I use them for pretty much everything. Small tabletop, fun stuff with people, but I can check out that smallrig stuff. Looks interesting. I do like the LED tech. I have them all around the house now, and little flashlights, and on my bicycle. Also, I got that UV lighbox that I stripped out my FL bulbs and replaced it with strips of LED. For future alt printing.

Drew Wiley
29-Jun-2022, 16:40
Beware of anything too good to be true, price-wise, especially if color photography is involved. There are all kinds of LED and CFL options out there which are basically BS-labeled garbage. I don't care if it's in a photo store studio section or in a hardware store. Be skeptical and always test in advance with a good color temp meter as well luminance meter. Serious bulb or strip suppliers should have available serious spec sheets including spectrograms. If there are wild spikes or canyons in the spectrum, there will inevitably be color repro problems sooner or later.

John Kasaian
3-Jul-2022, 06:36
I have a very old Mole Richardson fresnel. It's good for warming tortillas, and setting fire to things.

ericantonio
6-Jul-2022, 16:03
Yikes, Moles, I've worked with so much of those. I still have a burn mark next to my left nipple on one. I worked in LARGE bedroom/bathroom sets. We had carpenters make a room and then we setup so many lights. So many moles. About 20-30 each set. The entire floor loft in NYC would get so HOT!!!

Then we had long exposures like minutes and if you happen to be walking by, you need to stop in your tracks. These were the days we were shooting 8x10 Deardorffs and Calumet's cause the art directors would give us full sized drawings on acetate and we had to make it exactly like it so the acetate would be taped on the back of an 8x10, light the sucker up, and move furniture/toilets/towels, whatever to fit. Cause it was 1:1 ratio in print. Ahhh, good old days before digital.