FP4+ in Pyrocat HD

[Tom Nirider]

I have been developing my FP4+ in Pyrocat HD and I just feel like my negatives are a little thin. Not a lot thin, but just a bit. I am developing using the Massive Dev recommended time of 9 minutes for FP4+ rated at ISO 100.

Do I need to rate the film at ISO 80? Should I increase development time?

I know, you will tell me to go do experiments.... I'm looking for an easy answer! HAHA!

Thanks for any help.

[Mark Sampson]

FWIW, I develop in trays and my usual time is 10.5 minutes @ 68F. I can (but often don't) process 12 sheets of 4x5 in an 8x10 tray with 2L of Pyrocat-HD.
That said, if your shadows seem too deep, without tonal separation, you need more exposure. If your high values are too gray, and you higher contrast paper for bright high values, try increasing your development.
I find that FP4+ in Pyrocat-HD is an excellent combination, and well worth perfecting. Best of luck!

[Drew Wiley]

I always rate it at 50 unless it's a low-contrast scene with surplus exposure latitude, and do 10 min development.

[David Schaller]

I rate FP4 at 100, and my N development is 11 minutes at 70F, in the 1:1:100 dilution, with agitation for one minute initially, and 10 seconds every minute afterwards, in trays. With roll films, I agitate less, maybe 15 seconds at first then 5 seconds every minute. These are for scanning and silver printing. For alt processes, maybe develop longer or at higher concentrations.

[Richard Wasserman]

I'll jump in. I have been using FP-4in Pyrocat since Sandy King came up with the formula way back in the last century. I rate FP-4 at 100 and develop 1:1:100 for about 9 minutes at 72F in BTZS tubes. I scan only

You really need to test for yourself and your process. It's not hard, just a few sheets and a bit of trial and error should do it.

[jp]

I use 1:1:100 and 10 minutes with FP4+ at iso 100. You shouldn't need to lower your film speed with pyrocat hd/hdc.
1 minute of continuous agitation at the start, then 10s every minute in Combiplan tanks.

[Tom Nirider]

Thanks all for your insights. I've been using Pyrocat HD 2+2+100 and rating FP4+ at ISO 100. My development time for this most recent batch was 9 minutes although Massive Dev will say only 6 minutes at that concentration.... I use gentle continuous rotation in a Jobo Drum. Will try a couple of experiments. Appreciate you pointing me at some solutions.

[Jim Noel]

It is interesting that no one so far has mentioned PRINTS!
After all, they are usually our goal. No matter how your negatives look, make prints and see what pleases you.

[John Layton]

With the Heiland LED VC head (Zone 6 series 2 enlarger) being so bright - I tend to rate FP4+ at about half box speed - and process for 10-12 minutes at 70 F with 1:1:100 Pyrocat - in 6 individual 5x7 trays set into a 20x24 tray. Works for me.

[Tom Nirider]

My printing process is normally Palladium. I am however, going to do some contact prints on AZO papers.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I assume you have printed the negatives?

[Tom Nirider]

Yes I have printed many of these negatives. They seem to be lacking in contrast...just a bit thin. I'm blaming the negatives, but there are so many variables...

[DarekP]

I rate it at 50 too, and do 11 min development (1:1:100) in Jobo CPE2 with presoak.

[Tom Nirider]

Thank you, Darek. I will try a couple of sheets at iso 50 just to see... Appreciate the input.

[John Layton]

Too many variables here for anyone to simply state that one should be getting "box speed." Also, while there seems to be a decent amount of info here with respect to various processing scenarios...what about our light metering habits? One person's ISO 50 could be another person's ISO-100...simply as a result of how these two folks happen to use and interpret their light meters. Hey...just sayin'!

[Tom Nirider]

John, yes I have thought about a metering issue.... I'm using the same method I have always used, but maybe I just need new batteries in my meter?!! Actually I have two and they do differ by about 2/3 of a stop. Maybe I got them mixed up. They are otherwise identical. I will go check that...

[esearing]

I think Pyro negatives in general look thinner than gray tone negatives due to the color. But the beauty of Pyrocat is that it has some latitude to be adjusted to your personal desires for development. My personal process alters the 1:1:100 mix to 3.5:3:500 for a single sheet 4x5 in a tank and time will vary between 12 and 14 minutes at 70F for a normal scene depending on what the overall scene contrast and consideration for the volume of Shadows, midtones, and highlights. I also tend to agitate only once every 3 minutes. Printing my negatives usually requires grade 2.5 to 3.5 on Ilford papers. I also use Steve Sherman's EMA technique sometimes when I have many middle tones, or if in a hurry I use the 1:1:100 at 75F for 10 minutes with 2 minute agitations. Just do a little testing with extra shots of the scenes you are working with, you will soon see the subtle differences. I also prefer the simple variant of Pyrocat-Metol.

[CreationBear]

Eric, out of curiosity, what's "baseline" for your salt prints (I'm assuming FP4 and some sort of pyro here)? Interpolating from Sandy's resources, I'm planning on 2:2:100 for my POP prints (e.g. VDB, etc.) for normal contrast scenes, then perhaps 5:3:100 and a corresponding faster film speed for low contrast scenarios. Sound in the ballpark for you?