Any "Musts" is South Korea?

[Graeme Hamilton]

Howdy all,

I will be travelling to the Seoul area in mid June for about a week (first time out of country!). I am traveling with a Seoul native, but non-photographer.
I will be shooting digi and 6x9 for b&w. The trip is not strictly photographic, and I have not quite decided whether or not to lug a 4x5 kit across the pacific.

More specifically, I am curious as to opinions on any must shoot locations or experiences in the Seoul area, and any areas reachable by train that are worth a day trip. And any watch-outs as well. I know some countries have very strict rules about photography in public, any experiences with this in Korea?


Thanks much for any insights or suggestions

Graeme

[Leszek Vogt]

My trip was bit circuitous, since I went to Jeju Island after I arrived at Incheon...worked my way to Seoraksan NP. This park is easily accessible from Seoul, as well, via express bus, but you'd likely need 2 days for that. The historic "village" not far from downtown is worth checking, tho it may not be as picturesque as other places. You could check DMZ line, since it's not all that far, but it requires reservation/s ahead....one thing that I didn't do while there. I've seen the cost (just now) per/pass from $75...& on up.

Also, I do like the bridge on Rte 110 when departing from the airport, particularly for eve/night shot (or anytime). Not sure how you'd organize that, but one can take a subway to the airport and hire a cab to arrive at the water-view.....unless you'll rent a car ?

One of my pet peeves was coffee, particularly for breakfast. Sure, you can find and spot Starbucks (not many), but I found this French Bakery one level lower from a street (on the way to subway)....not sure which stop. I'm mentioning this, since it's not a reg beverage that they serve....so there is that.

Oh, you may want to check out Namsan Seoul Tower (on the hill) before it gets dark....expansive views from there.

There is a concourse where festivals take place, US Embassy is there, several historic buildings and monuments. Really enjoyed folks wearing traditional attire (example). I was there for the Harvest Fest later in the year, 7yrs ago.

Hope someone else chimes in. Don't forget to check out the "bean".
227111

[Jim Andrada]

When we were living in Tokyo we made a few trips to SK. Spent time on Jeju/Cheju and it was quite nice. Biggest problem is that my wife was (and is) a Japanese citizen and she was hassled by officials every time we got on a flight. A couple of times they took her to a separate room and held her until the last minute so she had to run for the flight. Outside of tha, though, we had a good trip. One of the gentlemen I had worked with in Tokyo was promoted to president of IBM Korea and we had a chance to meet him and his family at their home while we were in Seoul. Food was great - but you HAVE TO like garlic. (We do.) We hired a cab for a day in Cheju and he took us to an interesting area where the houses and other buildings were cylindrical. We had lunch ln a largish circular stone building where there were small fires next to each seating area where you could cook your own beef strips. Really good (and did I say there was a lot of garlic.)

[Graeme Hamilton]

Thanks Les and Jim.
Namsan Seoul Tower looks like a great thing to do whether photographically or not. What an expansive vista! There has been some talk of visiting the traditional market, it might be related to the concourse you mentioned, seems similar at the least. In further research, there are all sorts of interesting ancient places scattered around. There are lots of royal tombs scattered around town!

There was a mention of an ancient village, I wonder if that might be the cylindrical houses, but the name escapes me at the moment.

I always stuff my lettuce wraps with garlic- so looking forward to that!

[Jim Andrada]

Based on our experience it will take you about 3 days to "detox" after leaving. We went to a really nice restaurant with the heated floor (Called an Ondol IIRC) and they served several whole garlic heads (not just cloves) in cold water as an appetizer. We thought it was great.

I thought the houses were round, but I might be wrong. Anyhow, this link looks about right.

https://www.expatolife.com/seongeup-folk-village-jeju-island-south-korea/

[pjd]

I've lived in Seoul for years. Thinking of one of your questions

"any watch-outs as well. I know some countries have very strict rules about photography in public, any experiences with this in Korea?"

This is a good question. I'm not 100% on the exact legal standing, but in practical terms you have to be very careful about street photography if it takes in passers by. Just assume that you need permission to take someone's photo, and if it's not forthcoming don't take the photo. I think the exact situation is that you could be sued at a later date if you publish a photo, but street photography in itself is not illegal. However, it's frowned upon, and it's probably assumed that photography including passers by is at least a breach of etiquette, at worst...well, much worse. Hidden cameras in female public toilets is a big issue:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molka

https://time.com/6154837/open-shutters-south-korea-spycam-molka/

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p06d190x

so some people will assume the worst if someone wanders about engaging in street photography that would be protected by law in most other countries.

Thinking of June, it will be hot and humid and the best times of day for photography might present mosquito problems. I would probably not bring the 4x5 unless you really like urban photography.

Seoul itself is a temple of urban sprawl. It does look best by night from a high vantage point - Seoul Tower (Namsan) is the obvious place that has already been mentioned. Failing that, some of the bridges on Han River by night could be good if you like neon nightscapes.

If you need film while here, the best shop is in Chungmuro, close to Seoul Tower and Myung-dong (the biggest shopping area):

https://www.saeki.co.kr/main

Film isn't cheap though, I don't think anything photography related is cheap here in fact.

I should probably be able to give better suggestions, but maybe I've become too familiar with the place. A DMZ tour might be interesting if you like military history, but remember that photography is forbidden in some of the sensitive areas.

In Seoul itself, Insa-dong is a kind of touristy but cute place, near Gyeongbok palace and Deoksu Palace. That's all in walking distance from Gwanghwamun:

https://www.google.com/search?q=gwanghwamun&client=ubuntu&hs=8GF&channel=fs&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjDuuaKrNr3AhUDAN4KHf-VA5UQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1178&bih=625&dpr=1

There might be a photo exhibition on there if you are lucky (I've seen touring exhibitions from Ansel Adams and Karsh in Gwanghwamun, and some other excellent exhibitions in Seoul Arts Center in the south of the city:

https://www.sac.or.kr/site/eng/home

[Graeme Hamilton]

Thank you for the very detailed answer pjd! I was concerned about street photography etiquette, so I appreciate that specific point. I am also taking a trip to Gyeong-ju to see the historic area there. It's shapping up to be a lot packed into a single week!

[pjd]

Gyeongju is a good place to visit. If you like mountains, maybe you could consider a Bukhan mountain day hike while in Seoul:

https://english.knps.or.kr/Experience/ParkContent.aspx?SEQUEN=26&ParkDiv=01&HikDiv02=01&MenuNum=1&Submenu=Npp&Third=HikingCourses&Fourth=01

or a day trip to Seorak mountain:

https://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/ATR/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264211

[nitroplait]

I will be travelling to the Seoul area in mid June for about a week (first time out of country!). I am traveling with a Seoul native, but non-photographer.
I will be shooting digi and 6x9 for b&w. The trip is not strictly photographic, and I have not quite decided whether or not to lug a 4x5 kit across the pacific.

Not the slightest expert on Seoul or South Korea. I have only been there once on a business trip around 10 years ago, but I have lived in Asia for several years and traveled the region extensively. So I'll just quickly give you my thoughts.

Towards end of June it will likely be hot and and humid, nothing like the dry Texan heat - your sweat will not evaporate: you will want to travel light.

I photographed with a DSLR in the Lotte World Shopping mall - probably prohibited, but nobody seem to care or notice me. Walking outside was uncomfortable but I could shoot in the street without people paying attention.

There was a strange architectural "other-world" quality about Seoul that was different from other Asian cities I visited or lived in.
Massive number of aged apartment building complexes that originated from the height of the boom years (which came later than in Tokyo, with which I am more familiar). The company logo of "Lotte" appeared on so many of the building and shops that it felt almost Orwellian somehow - like as if the city was owned by Lotte (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotte_Corporation).
I cannot say it was pretty - quite the opposite, but I do regret that I didn't try to capture that special feeling of the architecture photographically.
I personally don't subscribe to exclusively seeking conventional beauty in my photography. I think that things representing a time and a place has its own beauty, even when not pretty - your milage will likely vary, of-course.

[Pat Kearns]

My wife and I have been to South Korea twice. Our son moved there after graduating from college to teach English to elementary students and married a Korean girl at the same school. We went to the wedding that was in February and the second time was about 8 years ago in August. So my experiences with the weather is either freezing cold and extremely hot, it may be hot when you visit. South Korea has very good mass transit systems. It is good you will have a native Korean that will be able to help you get around in Seoul. In my opinion, one of the "Musts" are the old market areas with textile goods to food markets. The sights and sounds are astounding and a photographers delight. Have fun and enjoy the Kim Chi.

[younghoon Kil]

I live in Incheon city, which is close to Seoul city. (Here in Incheon, there is also Incheon International Airport.)
In Seoul city, N Seoul Tower(Namsan Tower), Itaewon-dong, Cheonggyecheon, and Lotte World Tower's 'Seoul Sky' observatory are also recommended. Night time is good, too.
These are the places that Koreans and foreigners alike want to visit.
I hope you have a nice trip.

p.s. Koreans do not like to speak loudly when using public transportation such as buses or subways. :rolleyes:
p.s.2. Most places do not prohibit taking pictures. If you have any concerns, please ask the staff.
p.s.3. By mid-June, there will probably be no mosquitoes. It may be a little humid, but it will be cool in the evening and in the morning.

[John Olsen]

Just for fun try the statues on the ground of the Folk Art Museum in Seoul. They're kind of goofy and fun.

227994

[Graeme Hamilton]

Thanks so much to everybody!

Younghoon Kil I have been warned that it will be hot and humid, but it was 104 (40c) in Dallas yesterday, so how bad could it be!

I am getting on a plane Friday, and will update if I get any worthwhile shots.

[Fred L]

friends have taught there, and I've never been, but this is one place I would have to visit. cheesy maybe but still...lol

https://thereshegoesagain.org/dreamy-camera-cafe/

[younghoon Kil]

Koreans love coffee very much.
According to the report, annual coffee consumption is about 2.7 times higher than the global average. :D

Also, Koreans love coffee shops.
One of the most popular stores in South Korea is a coffee shop.

- https://www.facebook.com/cafedreamy (Dreamy Camera Cafe)

[pjd]

I wonder how this trip went / is going. It's 35° today, and mosquito activity is "extreme" (that's according to a website I looked at, and my experience here on the ground in NW Seoul).

[Graeme Hamilton]

It was really fantastic!

I would recommend any of the below to those who may be traveling there:

I stayed at Shilla Stay Yeoksam, and think it was a great balance of comfort and cost. I would stay there again.

Day one: I arrived in the late afternoon and had dinner at Lotteria (think Korean Burger King), both the bulgogi burger and the mozzarella burger are a fun spin. Staying up for 24hrs straight really helped with the jet lag when arriving. My tip for those traveling from the Americas: When heading to Korea don't sleep on the plane, when heading back, do.

Day two: I grabbed a delicious spicy beef stew and lettuce wraps (with lots of yummy garlic!) for brunch. I wish I remembered the place, but my light khaki pants have a permanent red spot now. Then went to see the Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty. Lots of good signage and a small on site museum. It was hot, so we went to get the sesame snowflake at the Jungsik cafe. The associated restaurant is Michelin starred, and has to be reserved far in advance, the cafe is walk in and very nice. Overall, I was impressed with the ambience of every restaurant from cheap to expensive. For dinner I ate with my friends family, if you are ever traveling to Korea, and someone's mom offers to feed you, SAY YES.

Day three: Visited a Diaso, a Japan based dollar store but nicer and a fun slice of local life. Brunch at the Lotte department store food court. The sweet cheese croffles (croissant waffles) and mandu were really delicious. From there I took my first subway to the SRT high speed train station. The subways in Seoul are fantastic. They are full of shops and the trains run often. I would recommend to everyone to take a day trip to Gyeongju by SRT. The journey is about 2 hours and you get such a wonderful view of the beautiful Korean countryside. So many ephemeral vignettes as you go from mountain tunnel to valley and quickly into the mountain again. Truly a beautiful country. Once there definitely try the kimbap and the coin bread, the place is famous for it. While there you gotta see the Daereungwon Tomb Complex of course! So many mounds, and very interesting ancient freezer and the oldest astronomical observatory in Asia. There is also a really good history museum that is full of artifacts from the history of the country. There are many good restaurants here, it seems to be a local tourist spot. Poseok-ro between Taejong-ro and Cheomseong-ro was full of places to eat and small gift shops. At night, they light up the nearby Donggung Palace and Wolji pond complex. The traditional buildings make a very pretty reflection in the pond. Highly recommend taxis, as some areas are farther than others and the transportation is not quite as dense as Seoul.

Day four: Ate delicious soondae, fried foods beer and liver at Sag (삭) a tiny bar near Ewha Women's University where my friend did her undergrad. We visited the campus and the campus museum was great. It would be a good compromise visit of you couldn't make it to the big history museum in Gyeongju. Lots of cafes and bars around this area, make sure to visit some.

Day five: Ate Tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes, you haven't been to Korea if you don't have any) near the Gyeongbokgung Palace. Speaking of which, go see the palace! The main throne room burned down in a war with Japan in the 1500's, but it was rebuilt in the 1800's and is a beautiful complex, full of traditional housing of the upper class and royalty. Did you know that traditional Korean fireplaces are under the floor? In floor heating hundreds of years ago!! Part of the complex is The National Folk Museum of Korea. This place is really amazing. Super interactive and very insightful into the cultural side of history I spent hours reading every sign and would go back. Now is as good as a time as any to tell you to go to a rice wine bar. We did and it was delicious and refreshing after seeing the out door palace complex in the heat.

Day six: I can confirm that malls all over the world have that same mall smell. The mall at Lotte World tower did at least! The tower is 5th tallest in the world, but it was envelpoed in clouds this day, so we did not go up it. Such a nice mall. So much shopping. If you like shopping visit here. The ice cream shop on the kids floor has a delicious cream flavor soft serve. On the fancy side of the mall, there is a really good bakery with a view of the city.

Day seven: Raw fish galore. Another must try in my opinion. And anyone who visits needs to try the cooked toothfish. So buttery.. This was the last day and we spent the rest of it at Nansam Tower. It was nice, if touristy, place to relax before the long flight home the following morning.

I have added a few images to the smaller formats image sharing here (https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?169482-Korean-Trip-Companion-Thread&p=1650695#post1650695)

[Leszek Vogt]

Glad you had a great time. I'm not much a rice wine connoisseur, but I'd make up for it gorging myself with kim-chee. Good that you discovered the subway....it's a fab way of getting around this sprawl out city. Looking forward to seeing more images. Oh, and thanks for all the info.

[pjd]

Thanks for the follow up post, glad to read that you had a good time - and I like the photos you posted in the other thread!

[Jim Andrada]

It's interesting. Lotte Holdings is actually a Japanese company that was founded in Japan by a Korean gentleman financed by mainly Japanese investors. The Korean "subsidiary" accounts for about 80% of total revenue/profit, but there are a lot of Lotte's in Japan. The name "Lotte" itself is short for the character Charlotte in the German novel "The Sorrows of Young Werther" by Goethe. Quite an international hash.