Broken lift of JOBO CPE 2+ (Common question)

[Tomsmac]

Good day.

There’s unfortunately a relatively common problem with the JOBO CPE-2 lifts. The plastic female circular pieces (see attached) that holds the two lift rods break. It’s damn near impossible to get individual parts for it. And those that are selling the lift “for parts” have this broken too! 😂

Has anyone thought of a clever way to repair besides glue and wire as shown here? Perhaps a 3D printer? Thanks for looking.

226293

[Dugan]

You might check with Omer at Catlabs.com

[Tomsmac]

Yep, I did buddy. His solution? Buy a new lift. (Can’t blame the guy) ��

[Duolab123]

Good day.

There’s unfortunately a relatively common problem with the JOBO CPE-2 lifts. The plastic female circular pieces (see attached) that holds the two lift rods break. It’s damn near impossible to get individual parts for it. And those that are selling the lift “for parts” have this broken too! ��

Has anyone thought of a clever way to repair besides glue and wire as shown here? Perhaps a 3D printer? Thanks for looking.

226293

JB Weld? Possibly a very small SS worm drive hose clamp could be fitted over in place of the wire. The plastic is ABS, glue by itself would never hold. The roller black plastic bases crack very easily, the part design is bad, notches in notch sensitive plastic, it's a no no.

Find a shop that sells USA made worm drive hose clamps, the Chinese made ones are junk!

[Duolab123]

JB Weld? Possibly a very small SS worm drive hose clamp could be fitted over in place of the wire. The plastic is ABS, glue by itself would never hold. The roller black plastic bases crack very easily, the part design is bad, notches in notch sensitive plastic, it's a no no.

Find a shop that sells USA made worm drive hose clamps, the Chinese made ones are junk!

On 2nd look you would need to remove too much plastic to insert a hose clamp.

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

I used a lot of paste epoxy (PC7 I think, similar to JBWeld) to fix mine. The epoxy won't really stick to the ABS, but it bonds to itself and holds it shape, so if you build enough layers around enough edges it works. I ended up making about four or five layers and it lasted for a few years. Eventually the motor died, but that is a different story. As I recall, the challenge was finding a way of building up the material without interfering in it laying flat.

[Tomsmac]

Ahhhhh…. So you don’t bond the actual crack but build a casing over the casing? Like a tomb? Can I pick this up at a home big box store? Thank you!

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

Ahhhhh…. So you don’t bond the actual crack but build a casing over the casing? Like a tomb? Can I pick this up at a home big box store? Thank you!

Yes, that is correct, the epoxy won't fix the crack, but the casing over the whole mechanism prevents it from moving. Its ugly but works. Or it did for me. Most hardware stores should have an epoxy paste. Common brands are PC7 (https://www.pcepoxy.com/products/permanent-repair/pc-7-paste-epoxy/) or some (but not all) of the JBWeld products. Just make sure it is a paste or putty, not a liquid. Others may have better suggestions.

[Duolab123]

You could try some industrial Henkel super glue on the cracks then use fiberglass filled resin, or even lay glass cloth and epoxy over that. If Jobo had used a glass filled ABS it would have helped, but after all the years and chemicals........

[Lachlan 717]

JOBO rule number one: never attempt to use the lift as it was intended (note I did fuse “designed”…)

ALWAYS lift the tank itself, rather than using the lift arm. There are some articles on how to make an attachment that goes over the ends of the arms that allow you to lift them in unison.

http://processorparts.blogspot.com/2012/04/jobo-lift-assist-handle-ver-30-for.html?m=1

[Jim Noel]

I don't know how to fix it, but I know how to prevent it. I have always done as Lachlan says and lifted the drum, regardless of size. My unit is one of the earliest made and all I have done is have the motor rewound.

[Tomsmac]

Honestly, that is a brilliant idea, thank you. However while scouring the Internet and checkin with Kat labs there are none available. However, with the same theory, why couldn’t I string a rope across the two bars creating a point of equal lift distribution and supporting the actual lift bar?

[Duolab123]

I use a 3005 drum, sometimes 8x10 film sometimes prints. I stop the rotation, put my hand under the drum, and lift the drum as I use the "handle" with my left hand. These lifts need a second handle like what Catlabs, used to make. I need to tinker something up. Or just keep on doing what I'm doing :rolleyes:

[Tomsmac]

It comes down taking, leveraging the weight off of the section where the gears reside. I’m going to simply tie a rope at the end of the two silver bars and use that to take a majority of the weight.

[Duolab123]

It comes down taking, leveraging the weight off of the section where the gears reside. I’m going to simply tie a rope at the end of the two silver bars and use that to take a majority of the weight.

With the longer 8x10 drums the silver bars are under the drum. Same with the 2830, 2840 etc. The design is goofy. Best Regards Mike