Using Kodak Rapid Fixer for Film/Paper?

[neil poulsen]

I've always used Kodak Rapid Fixer for both film and fiber based photographs. I like the the convenience of Rapid Fixer, and the fact that it's easy to mix stock solution. And, I've always been satisfied with the photographic results that I obtain using this fixer.

Mixed 1:1 water/stock, I usually process for 3 minutes, or a little more. I develop paper in Dektol mixed 1:1, and develop film in D76 mixed 1:1. Would processing for 5 minutes in either film or fiber based paper be excessive? Note that I thoroughly wash my prints after processing.

[Doremus Scudder]

Neil,

I'm not sure I understand your question... If you're asking about fixing with Kodak Rapid Fixer, why not just follow the directions. Here's the link: https://www.freestylephoto.biz/static/pdf/product_pdf/kodak/KODAK_RAPID_FIXER_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

To summarize and adding info from the Kodak Tech Pubs on processing:

For film, dilute 1:3 (that's one part Part A to three parts water to make four parts total). Kodak wants you to add Part B, which is the hardener, however, it's not really needed for manual processing (note the instructions are focused on machine processing). You can safely leave it out.
Fix "most Kodak Professional Films" for 2-4 minutes, fix "Kodak TMAX Professional Films" 3-5 minutes. You can safely substitute "conventional films" and "tabular grain films" respectively for the two types of Kodak films.

For papers, dilute Kodak Rapid Fixer 1:7 (that's one part fixer to seven parts water to make eight parts total) and fix as follows: 2.5-5 minutes in each bath for the two-bath fixing method for fiber-base papers, Fix 10 minutes for the one-bath method. Again, Kodak wants you to use the hardener, but it's not needed and actually requires more washing time.

Capacities, etc., are in the instructions.

Note: diluting Kodak Rapid Fixer 1:1, which is what it seems you may be doing is not recommended and likely will compromise the fixing capability of the fixer. Rapid fixer especially needs a certain amount of water to be able to do its job. 1:1 is certainly way to strong, uneconomical and inefficient.


FWIW, if you're like me and don't use the hardener, it is a lot easier to buy a product that doesn't come with the hardener in the first place. I like Ilford Rapid Fixer or Hypam. Their instructions and methods are a bit different than Kodak's and found here: https://assets.website-files.com/5ba2689b2e7121210bfa9af3/5c0ecc53472033a2b1b17efb_tech%20specs%20ilford%20rapid%20fixer.pdf .

In either case, follow the instructions on dilution and fixing times and deviate from these only if you really know better.

Best,

Doremus

[Oren Grad]

FWIW, if you're like me and don't use the hardener, it is a lot easier to buy a product that doesn't come with the hardener in the first place. I like Ilford Rapid Fixer or Hypam.

I switched to Ilford's rapid fixers years ago for the same reason. But checking again just now, it looks like Kodak Rapid Fixer Part A is now readily available separately. So if for whatever reason one prefers the Kodak product, now one can get it without the waste and hassle of disposing of the un-needed Part B.

[Drew Wiley]

I use TF4 for both film and paper, the truly rapid fixer method.

[Michael R]

You and your TF-4. At least use the better TF-5 if you’re going to bother with that stuff.



I use TF4 for both film and paper, the truly rapid fixer method.

[Erik Larsen]

I like tf-4 also. No particular reason why, just confident in its ability. I’ve used tf5 also and noticed no problems and it actually mixes with water better. Hard to change habits I guess. Neil, if you have a choice and it’s cost effective vs Kodak rapid fixer I would switch to the tf4 or tf5. Very fast fix times, no clearing agent needed and wash fairly fast in my experience. But I know the urge to stick to the familiar as well..

[Drew Wiley]

Michael - TF4 is alkaline; TF5 is not. That makes a difference in the full effectiveness of residual dye washout. Maybe you don't worry too much about that in general black and white printing. But when it comes to registered masks during color printing, it's helpful to have as clear a base as possible. No big deal stirring. With any new jug of it, I just put a wooden dowel in there and stirs up the settled contents well. After that, just a bit of shaking the bottle prior to measuring the solution out. There are additional reasons I like an alkaline fixer, but won't spell them out here. Are all you Canadians that snooty? I might understand that in Quebec; but French influence in Montreal? ... incidentally, my own name is Anglicized from Dreaux.

[Michael R]

Yes I know TF-4 is alkaline. Lot of hype around that, mostly due to the darkroom cookbook crowd, pyro myths, residual dye washout myths etc. Neutral is good, like some colour fixers, or TF-5 if one must have a formulary product. DIY is simple enough too. But in fact plain old Ilford Rapid Fixer is near enough to neutral anyway. Perfectly fine.

[Drew Wiley]

How many color printing masks and separations have you actually made yourself, Michael? I'm calling your bluff. Even with VC printing having, say, .10 density of residual magenta dye in FP4 can cause a perceptible difference in print. In color work, the fact the dye fades over times due to the UV of repeated exposure, makes predictable results difficult session to session. Glad you have time to waste. Even being retired, I'd go nuts with conventional fixers. Gave up on those long ago, and never looked back.