Show your 3D printed LF photography related thing

[lassethomas]

Just new to 3D printing. It's fun and actually works better than I though.

I've did a quick search and there seems to be a few of us that print stuff to help us with photography. Lensboards is the first thing that come to mind, but other possibilities are lens caps or step-up rings. Or more ambitious projects like whole cameras.

So perhaps we need a thread to post our stuff, to inspire and learn. I at least would find it interesting to see what others have done.
So if you are up for it please post what you have done, perhaps with a picture or two.

[lassethomas]

To set a good example I start with today's print.
A 86mm adapter ring to my Cokin Z Pro filter holder.

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The problem:
I want to use the Cokin filter holder on my 75mm Super Angulon lens together with my center filter (and wider lenses). The front thread of the center filter is 86mm. The thing is that Cokin has no adapter ring for that dimension. It's either 82mm or 95mm. The 95mm is over-dimensioned and together with a step-up ring (to fit it to 86mm) it builds 12mm. Which leads to sever mechanical vignetting.

The solution:
So I modelled an adapter ring with a 86mm thread in Fusion 360 and printed it with a FlashForge Creator Pro 2. I used black PLA with a 0,1 mm layer height. Good detail is needed to get the threads good.
Some care is needed when mounting since the threads are plastic, but it works well and only builds a few millimeters. Mechanical vignetting is a thing of past days.

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[Tin Can]

State of the Art, I bought last month. Very low sales from Norway

A better, copy of the TravelWide, here I had just switched my lens, finder, flash from one to the other

I posted more recently, it is far sturdier than injection molded, Tech advances, weight so close I didn't bother

Both cameras need more bottom weight

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51714944830_a716a12f37_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2mMSBnQ)WillTravel 4x5 (https://flic.kr/p/2mMSBnQ) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51714737874_25879ea387_c.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/679Wfr)Wanderlust VS Will Travael (https://www.flickr.com/gp/tincancollege/679Wfr) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

[lassethomas]

State of the Art, I bought last month. Very low sales from Norway

A better, copy of the TravelWide, here I had just switched my lens, finder, flash from one to the other

I posted more recently, it is far sturdier than injection molded, Tech advances, weight so close I didn't bother

Both cameras need more bottom weight

TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

Thanks. Very nice. I just downloaded the files. Will have a stab at it.

[lassethomas]

Looking forward to test this 4x10 reel for the Job 2500 tank that I printed today.

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Found on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4705167) Same guy that did the WillTravel camera in the previous post

Holds four 4x10, eight 4x5 or four 5x7.

On a different note, why are all my portrait pictures rotated to landscape when I upload?

[Tin Can]

Nobody knows why some images turn left 90

I run ALL images through Photoshop and save as new Jpg

Mine don't 90 then

[Drew Bedo]

A 3D printed project:

Making `film spools that adapt 120 films to 70mm film backs. The Singer/Graflex 6x7 magazines that fit Grfloc backs took 70mm spokeless film on a spool with different ends than 120 roll film cameras.

What about a redesign of the discontinued MIDO film holder system?

[Morten]

Since Tin Can and Lassethomas already have mentioned the WillTravel cameras (4x5, 5x7, 4x10 and 8x10) and the development spool, heres my Polaroid 110/120 and now 800 conversion (https://shootfilmridesteel.com/kolve-misfit/) if you have a 3d printer, happy to share the files, just send me a pm
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[Graham Patterson]

I'm almost done tweaking my design for 300ml Jobo cylinders for my CPE. Mostly getting the volume gradations correct and some adjustments to get it to work well with PETG. The PLA test seems OK, but PLA is not a good choice for prolonged water immersion.

I need a couple of replacements, and I'd like the slightly larger volume option over the standard 270ml. FDM printing to hold liquids requires careful settings to ensure the layers bond. If I wanted just standard replacements I'd just buy them. The costs would be about the same (filament plus electricity for several hours per print and development costs).

[lassethomas]

I'm almost done tweaking my design for 300ml Jobo cylinders for my CPE. Mostly getting the volume gradations correct and some adjustments to get it to work well with PETG. The PLA test seems OK, but PLA is not a good choice for prolonged water immersion.

I need a couple of replacements, and I'd like the slightly larger volume option over the standard 270ml. FDM printing to hold liquids requires careful settings to ensure the layers bond. If I wanted just standard replacements I'd just buy them. The costs would be about the same (filament plus electricity for several hours per print and development costs).

Sounds interesting. Got an old CPP2 on my own.
If you are up for sharing get back when you are done tweaking.

[lassethomas]

Did a small print today. Almost to simple to even mention perhaps.
But something I thought about a for some time.
A filler for my Jobo drums. To help lower the amount of chemicals needed when doing rotary processing.

This first one is for developing one 120 roll in my 2236 tank.
Think I can go from 300 ml to 200ml.

Printed in PETG so it should be OK with chemicals.
It might yellow in the long run so subsequent print might be black instead.

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[Ron (Netherlands)]

Nice, but wouldn't it be easier to use a simple plastic clip to hold down the spiral - I have good experience with those (clips used to attach electrical hoses against a wall)

[lassethomas]

Nice, but wouldn't it be easier to use a simple plastic clip to hold down the spiral - I have good experience with those (clips used to attach electrical hoses against a wall)

Well, yes if you are developing with the tank i vertical position this adds nothing. Then a clip is indeed a better choice.
This is intended for use on a roller or processor like a Jobo CPP processor with the tank in horizontal position. To diminish the volume needed when developing in less than full tank.

[djphoto]

Here's my 3d printed 4x5 camera, designed in fusion 360. Mated to a graflock back, 120 roll adapter (6x6,6x9 or 6x12), but I can also attach a graflex ground glass for shooting 4x5.

Distance scale or groundglass focusing.

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I'm paranoid of light leaks, so the focus tube light traps are a bit over-designed.

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Camera has worked out really well.. it's really light weight compared to my other 4x5s.

[lassethomas]

Here's my 3d printed 4x5 camera, designed in fusion 360. Mated to a graflock back, 120 roll adapter (6x6,6x9 or 6x12), but I can also attach a graflex ground glass for shooting 4x5.

Distance scale or groundglass focusing.

I'm paranoid of light leaks, so the focus tube light traps are a bit over-designed.

Camera has worked out really well.. it's really light weight compared to my other 4x5s.

Looks really nice. One day I'll try to do the same in Fusion. But being a beginner I'm not really there yet (big understatement).
Just did my first Fusion project. A storagebox for my large format lenses. to go in my backpack.

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Easily adjusted for different sizes. Ventilated and stackable with snap on lid. Beginner stuff but fun to do.

[linuxid10t]

Just designed and printed some lens boards for the Sinar (and also Horseman L45) system. These are the 140mm lens boards. I haven't seen any other ones on the internet so I had to design them myself. They seem to work pretty well and are very solid if following my instructions.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5196070

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uzDU6uVtzClZs2tcJ5KWd5419Ehpd7U7/view?usp=sharing

[pjd]

Here's my 3d printed 4x5 camera, designed in fusion 360. Mated to a graflock back, 120 roll adapter (6x6,6x9 or 6x12), but I can also attach a graflex ground glass for shooting 4x5.

Distance scale or groundglass focusing.

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I'm paranoid of light leaks, so the focus tube light traps are a bit over-designed.

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Camera has worked out really well.. it's really light weight compared to my other 4x5s.

Impressive, how much does the camera weigh (with lens)?

[plywood]

The 3-D printed cameras here look somewhat more sleek than the Cameradactyl OG. But his does have interchangeable nose cones for various lenses.
I also already have a Travelwide but my focusing never worked from day one. Thought I could fix it myself, finally gave up and the body now has a hacked lens from a 6x9 folder. It will cover 4x4 (133mm diagonal) so the camera is masked to that size.
Can also use a 130mm f7.7 from another Kodak folder. That one will cover 4x5 and the front element focusing obviates the need for a separate helical.

[Nodda Duma]

I converted a scan of a dry plate into an STL file and printed it out. The thickness was a function of grayscale. Here is the result.

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[Tin Can]

The path to a future


I converted a scan of a dry plate into an STL file and printed it out. The thickness was a function of grayscale. Here is the result.

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[lassethomas]

I converted a scan of a dry plate into an STL file and printed it out. The thickness was a function of grayscale. Here is the result.

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Fun idea.
What kind of filament did you use? Some semi-transparent-ish I guess

[Nodda Duma]

Fun idea.
What kind of filament did you use? Some semi-transparent-ish I guess

I have an SLA printer, so smokey black resin

[lassethomas]

I have an SLA printer, so smokey black resin

Ah, should have guessed. Never tried. More stuff to get ��

[lassethomas]

I created and printed adapters, thin 100mm filter holders and protecting caps for my centerfilters. A 67/86 Schneider III and a 82/112 Rodenstock.
Especially pleased with the larger one since it enables me to use 100mm filers even though the outer filter thread is 112 mm. On my Fujinon 125 NSW it works for 4x10 without cropping the corners.On wider lenses perhaps not but that's good enough for me.
So now I can use the centerfilter and at least one more additional filter. Happy.

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[Paul Ron]

hey tc... i really like that camera you posted.

[Tin Can]

hey tc... i really like that camera you posted.I


I like red easy to find

[lassethomas]

For those of you who got the Reveni-Labs spotmeter here is a holder and protection for the lenses.
Also keeps the buttons protected from being pressed when stored in a bag or pocket,

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If anyone is interested it can be download here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5245738

[Wishegan]

Removed

[lassethomas]

Nice to see more things.

I've just added a Kodak 2-D 5x7 to Linhof lens board adapter to Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5331403

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[lassethomas]

Just got a Durst Laborator 1200 and needed a few negative masks
Perfect to print

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Masks for 9x12, 645, 6x6, 6x7, 6x9, 6x10, 6x12, 24x36, 18x24, APS and 126 can be found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5338889) if anyone need them

[Lachlan 717]

Not knowing a thing about 3D printing, would a 150x150mm filter holder to fit a 127mm filter size (210mm Super Angulon) be difficult?

Seeing how amazing the constructions ported here is inspiring. Excellent work!!

[lassethomas]

Not knowing a thing about 3D printing, would a 150x150mm filter holder to fit a 127mm filter size (210mm Super Angulon) be difficult?

Seeing how amazing the constructions ported here is inspiring. Excellent work!!

Constructing a filter holder from scratch is somewhat basic as far as modeling goes. But that said you need a basic knowledge of 3D modeling and construction. Otherwise the learning curve is steep. But not in any way impossible.
I work in Fusion360 which is a modeling and construction software that has a free license for personal use https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal
It should last you lifetime unless you want to go professional.

The easier way to start is to get a printer and print others designs. Thingverse (https://www.thingiverse.com) is good place to start looking for things to print.

[kirkmacatangay]

Made an adapter back for a whole plate camera to take 8x8 images using a standard 8x10 holder.

[lassethomas]

Made an adapter back for a while plate camera to take 8x8 images using a standard 8x10 holder.

Nice. Bringing old stuff to life. Love it!

[Tin Can]

Agree, very useful addition!

[lassethomas]

Just finished my WillTravel 4x5 XL 47.

First of all a big thanks to Morten who made it all available on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/mortenkolve/designs). And was kind enough to supply support along the way.
And I think he can print for you in case you haven't got a printer.

- Designed for Schneider Super Angulon XL 47mm. Equivalent to 13 mm on 35mm
- Calibrated for infinity focus
- Near focus at 0.6 meters
- Focus scale for hyperlocal distances at f16, f22 and f32.
- Permanently mounted center filter and filter holder.
- Holder for roll film backs
- Weights only 911 grams with center filter, filter holder, viewfinder and release

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Images taken with it can be found here
https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/willtravelcamera/

[xandr]

I have some housings from Mamiya Profesional, but without the handle. So I tried to make the handle with 3D printing. I found a template at thinkinverse.com. I designed the screw and the shaft to the camera body myself. The 3D printed shaft would not withstand the stress and would break. So I reinforced it inside with either a brass tube or a carbon fiber tube.

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[xandr]

I have restored some wooden shutters from Thorton Piccard. I was wondering if it is possible to make one with 3D printing. It works, but you have to be able to make a curtain yourself and also make a spring.

The construction in 3D:
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It works:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/145497036@N02/51970613077/in/album-72177720297744594/

[xandr]

I am now trying to build a 6x12 camera with the replica Thornton Piccard shutter. Here are the first attempts. But it will take a while until it really works.

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[jimskelton]

Here's a 4x5 back for a Polaroid roll film camera:
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It takes custom 4x5 film holders. You can find the instructions and files at http://polaroids.theskeltons.org/roll4x5.htm

And, a 4x5 back for a Polaroid pack film camera:
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which uses the same film holders as above. The 114mm lens on a pack camera doesn't quite cover 4x5, but it works. Instructions at http://polaroids.theskeltons.org/pack4x5.htm

[richydicky]

Interesting designs. I love the options of keeping obsolete format cameras going. I recently picked up a 180. I have sandwiched both Instax wide and 1/4 plate film in an old holder, works well. So the question is, are your films holders (not the 4x5 version) designed to fit quarter plate film size? If so I thought it would make a great hand held quarter plate camera.

[jimskelton]

The Polaroid pack film sized film holders are designed for 4 1/4" x 3 3/8" paper. I'm sure the design could be modified to hold one 1/4 plate with a dark slide.


Interesting designs. I love the options of keeping obsolete format cameras going. I recently picked up a 180. I have sandwiched both Instax wide and 1/4 plate film in an old holder, works well. So the question is, are your films holders (not the 4x5 version) designed to fit quarter plate film size? If so I thought it would make a great hand held quarter plate camera.

[richydicky]

The Polaroid pack film sized film holders are designed for 4 1/4" x 3 3/8" paper. I'm sure the design could be modified to hold one 1/4 plate with a dark slide.

Hi Jim. 1/4 plate is 4 1/4" x 3 1/4" though some old FP4 sheets I have is measured out as 4 1/8 x 3 1/8. A septum I have to hold the film in the holder has rails that make an image opening of just under 3" on the short side. I think your design should fit 1/4 plate film if rails to hold the film are wide enough in the current design.

On Thingiverse I saw that you have a holder design that only requires a dark slide to be made. How does that compare with the one that just has the parts to 3D print the basic holder frame? The link to that on your site results in a 404 not found.

Thanks
Richard

[jimskelton]

I don't know anything about plates, but imagine they don't bend. This film holder requires a medium that can bend to get it into the holder. How thick is the plate? Maybe the holder can be designed so the end piece hinges, but then that would invite light leaks. And, the space for the negative is only as thick as a bit more than a piece of photographic paper.

The difference between the 2 holders on thingiverse is the more complete one has the body of the holder printed, which takes quite a bit more filament. The rails build the same holder, but require some mat board, etc. to complete.


Hi Jim. 1/4 plate is 4 1/4" x 3 1/4" though some old FP4 sheets I have is measured out as 4 1/8 x 3 1/8. A septum I have to hold the film in the holder has rails that make an image opening of just under 3" on the short side. I think your design should fit 1/4 plate film if rails to hold the film are wide enough in the current design.

On Thingiverse I saw that you have a holder design that only requires a dark slide to be made. How does that compare with the one that just has the parts to 3D print the basic holder frame? The link to that on your site results in a 404 not found.

Thanks
Richard

[richydicky]

I'm talking about sheet film in quarter plate size, not glass or metal plates. Adox still do this size and Ilford may in their annual special size format run.

[jimskelton]

Haha, ok, shows you how clued out I am. The holder would need the borders modified to work with 1/4 plate but that certainly wouldn't be hard to do. I just cut down 5x7 film which makes 2 Polaroid sized negatives. A little tricky in the dark, but I'm getting used to it.


I'm talking about sheet film in quarter plate size, not glass or metal plates. Adox still do this size and Ilford may in their annual special size format run.

[lassethomas]

Made this adapter from Linhof lens board to Linhof lens board with a Packard Ideal 1 3/4 inch shutter in between
On the pictures with a Red dot Artar 8 1/4 i a barrel mount on a printed threaded lens board.

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And you have to tilt your head since the forum rotates portrait oriented picture wrongly

[lassethomas]

I design and printed this glass-less holder for scanning 5x7 in the Epson V700, V750 and V850.
Focus can be adjusted from 2mm to 6mm which is more than enough. My V700 works best att 4mm height (with emulsion facing up).

Negatives are held surprisingly flat, probably due to that it's held and pressed all the way round by the holder.
Nylon screws gives a little bit of friction so that the height doesn't slip by accident.

And also made adapters for 4x5 and 9x12 that can be used in the holder with the same focus height (see second picture)

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Not as rigid as a metal frame would be so perhaps a little more warping.
Nothing that bothers me anyway

[FredrickSummers]

I design and printed this glass-less holder for scanning 5x7 in the Epson V700, V750 and V850.
Focus can be adjusted from 2mm to 6mm which is more than enough. My V700 works best att 4mm height (with emulsion facing up).

Negatives are held surprisingly flat, probably due to that it's held and pressed all the way round by the holder.
Nylon screws gives a little bit of friction so that the height doesn't slip by accident.

And also made adapters for 4x5 and 9x12 that can be used in the holder with the same focus height (see second picture)

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Not as rigid as a metal frame would be so perhaps a little more warping.
Nothing that bothers me anyway

Looks quite nice, and clean print. Are you going to share the STL files at any point?

[lassethomas]

Looks quite nice, and clean print. Are you going to share the STL files at any point?

Sure. I will look into it when I get back from my holiday trip in a couple of weeks.

[robotgoldfish]

Hear are some items I made on my 3d printer.

Clockwise from left:

1) Lens board to mount a lens from a lubatol 166 to a speed graphic.
2) Lens board to mount a lens from a copy machine to a Burk and James flatbed view camara.
3) Lens board to mount a thrift shop find lens to a speed graphic. (More to come about the rest of that box.)
4) My second design for a 4x5 adapter for a standard Patterson style tank.
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[lassethomas]

Looks quite nice, and clean print. Are you going to share the STL files at any point?

Did some more work on the glass-less holder for scanning 5x7 in the Epson V700, V750 and V850. With adjustable height.
Files for the basic 5x7 holder is up on Thingiverse now

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5722055

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Will update with 4x5 and 9x12 adapter at some point

[lassethomas]

I designed and printed this simple jig to make testing shutter speeds with the phone a little easier and reliable.

The phone is an old iphone 5s with the PhotoPlug optical sensor and the Shutter-Speed app. In the other end a cheap flashlight.
I also have a spreadsheet for entering data and designing small labels with f-stop corrections for the lens board.
Works surprisingly well.

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[faraz]

Sort of LF related, an LED light source for a Devere 504, a programmable timer, and a powerblock with relays to power it along with the safe lights, a paper flasher and light box.

The LED light source is part 3D printed, and part built of plywood.

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[lassethomas]

I needed a lighter filmback for my 8x10 Szabad camera (same dimensions as Eastman 2-D and Burke & James I think). My current was die-cast metal and really heavy.
So I designed one in Fusion 360 and printed.

Weighs less than a 1 kg.
3D printed parts, some thread inserts and screws. 2 feeler gauges for springs and a ground glass.
Works well and we will see how it stands up over times.

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[ethics_gradient]

Nice to see more things.

I've just added a Kodak 2-D 5x7 to Linhof lens board adapter to Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5331403

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Just wanted to say I've got a project 5x7 2D sitting on the shelf, and had a stab at making one of these when I was new to 3D modelling a year or so ago. Didn't quite there so glad to find this one! I'm teeing up the last piece tonight, should already have the heat set inserts and hardware left over from other projects.

Thanks for making it available!

Need to model some bellows holders for the front standard next, I think mine was previously repaired by someone else as they don't fit the replacement bellows I ordered.

[lassethomas]

Just wanted to say I've got a project 5x7 2D sitting on the shelf, and had a stab at making one of these when I was new to 3D modelling a year or so ago. Didn't quite there so glad to find this one! I'm teeing up the last piece tonight, should already have the heat set inserts and hardware left over from other projects.

Thanks for making it available!

Need to model some bellows holders for the front standard next, I think mine was previously repaired by someone else as they don't fit the replacement bellows I ordered.

Hey, someone (well you) found it usefull. So great!!
Hope it works out well.

[xandr]

Additions using 3D printing for my Bronica SQ-Ai:
Shaft finder, battery holder and wind-up knob.

However, the battery holder still needs metal strips to ensure contact.
The shaft finder works well, but is not suitable for heavy use.

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Here a video in Flickr:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145497036@N02/52945266799/in/album-72177720308760965/

[Graham Patterson]

I don't have a darkroom at the moment, and have not been willing to cut down 4x5 to 2.25x3.25 for my Galvin 2x3 using a changing bag. But since I have a lot of 4x5 sheet film on hand, I thought I'd try a 4x5 adapter for the Galvin.

The Galvin has a 90x90mm aperture in the rear standard, so that is the image area. In order to retain some back tilt the film holder is offset vertically.
The film plane is pushed back around 10mm compared to the Galvin back, and that does affect the rear tilt axis. But it works for me.

The ground glass frame was borrowed from Morton Kolve's Will Travel camera (I borrowed it from my 90mm body), the rest is all mine. At least the film and holder is large format!

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[xandr]

I had to make a new leathering for my Mamiya-6 and Ica Lloyd-Cupido 560. To make stamps for the logos and trim lines 3D printing is very good. I vectorized the logos from images available to me of the cameras and made the stamps in Blender.

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/145497036@N02/albums/72177720310207826/with/53089241019/

[TorontoBuilder]

Being of modest financial means, yet having hobby metal and woodworking shops as well as a 3D printer, I tend to make something if I need it.

While I do have a Cambo SC 4x5, I hate the limitations of the 617 back fitted on a 4x5 camera. I also can't and would not pay the price shen hao is asking for their 617 cameras. To that end, I'm designing a convertible field camera to shoot 120 roll film, with dedicated magazines for 6x17, 6x12, and 6x9 images. Maybe 6x7 so I can crop to 6x6 and 6x4.5 without too much waste.

I've mostly designed the first (617) roll film back except for a few minor details like the closure method to join the two piece backs. I'm using a technique that I often use to build complex geometries that could not otherwise be printed without a ton of supports and having to do a lot of clean up. I print many of the parts split in the middle to create two flat printing surfaces, and then I glue then together in a 3D printed clamping jig where the external clamping surfaces mirror the part geometry. The back of the magazine will be a lamination of 3 separate layers, which will help maintain a flat film plane, and allow for dark slide slot that is able to be fully lined with light trapping material.

This method will also allows me to have a complex features facing the interior of the roll film back like the film registration ridge that sits proud of the magazine back, and raised ribs and film support rails for greater rigidity while maintaining critical dimensions, as well as recessed flats for locating and mounting two film pinch rollers.

I was going to design a ratcheting lever film advance, but really I don't need such fineries, but I did include a one way ratchet assembly to assure that I dont have a brain fart and roll the film the wrong way ever. With age I'm finding I have lapses in memory. The good thing is that 3D printing is very inexpensive and I can modify the design quickly by just cutting out the middle of the magazine in fusion 360 to create new components and bodies.


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[TorontoBuilder]

I have used two sets of rollers to guide and pinch the film for two reasons. The first being all my existing backs use them, so they must be better design, and I have two lathes so I can machine rollers very easily out of delrin. I'm using the same material for the bushings/light traps that hold the rollers, and for the light trap caps for the spring plungers that hold the spools in place.

The smallest rollers that commercial cameras and backs have are mounted in thin spring steel pieces that are screwed to the film back. I hate working with tiny thin spring steel, and I dislike the designs I've seen that omit the rollers, so I had to come up with a solution to allow for downward movement of the rollers when the film is loaded, as well as resisting the slight shear loading on the small roller mounts/bushing as the film is advanced.

The small roller mounts will be machined from delrin, and will be tiny which will not lend themselves well to drilled holes and screws. So instead I'll use a spring substitute trick I learned while designing lithium battery packs. Poron foam, which is a foamed elastomeric urethane material in sheet form that is very durable, and great for seals and thin springs. I used it in my battery packs to keep the battery cells in constant contact with the copper terminals even under heavy vibrations of off road biking. So I'll use small strips of poron foam with 3M adhesive to fasten the mounts onto the back base plate... this will work very well at maintaining firm contact between the rollers and the film, and I'm fairly confident that the technique will resist the sheer loads well enough too. You can see in the image how small the parts will be.

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I haven't shown the pressure plate that keeps the film flat nor the pressure plates that place tension on the roll film spools, but they'll use a similar technique with poron foam backing. The spool pressure plates will be 3d printed, while the film pressure plate will be a fiberglass plate. I'll use red acrylic rod to machine a rod/lens to view the film back label... and have a cover to block light when not advancing the film.

[John Layton]

Wonderful! Very neat and clean design...looks like you're really refining the "state of the art!"

I do have a question for you about Poron foam: how well does in maintain its "springiness" over time (especially with a large number of "use cycles"), and when also subject to changes in environmental conditions?

Oh...and another question: the 3D printed material surfaces in your photos look very smooth. Does this smoothness represent what 3D printing is capable of currently? Or are you polishing these surfaces after they come out of the printer? And if you are polishing...do you need to take into account any possible dimensional changes which might result from such polishing?

Sorry for all the questions - but I've been meaning to ask them for quite some time (especially with respect to 3D printing in general).

[TorontoBuilder]

Wonderful! Very neat and clean design...looks like you're really refining the "state of the art!"

I do have a question for you about Poron foam: how well does in maintain its "springiness" over time (especially with a large number of "use cycles"), and when also subject to changes in environmental conditions?

Oh...and another question: the 3D printed material surfaces in your photos look very smooth. Does this smoothness represent what 3D printing is capable of currently? Or are you polishing these surfaces after they come out of the printer? And if you are polishing...do you need to take into account any possible dimensional changes which might result from such polishing?

Sorry for all the questions - but I've been meaning to ask them for quite some time (especially with respect to 3D printing in general).


I did want to design a better than average 3D printed roll film holder, but I'd not say this was state of the art... I didn't go with lever film advance, nor fancy carbon fiber parts for their flash over substance ;)

First let me address how Fusion 360 renders designs... they have all sorts of lighting options, reflectance levels, surface roughness settings to allow for accurate rendering if you want to go crazy, BUT I only care about designing and only minimally wish to render parts to show others. So no the renders dont show the surface you'd get with 3D printers.

I do however use a fair bit of post printing finishing on such parts, especially where I need to mate surfaces together, therefore my design process adds dimension to the printed parts to account for the post print material removal. I also will ensure the parts has greater number of wall layers to allow for finish sanding post printing.

If you know how heat treated metal parts are machined slightly over size to allow for dimensional changes during the heat treatment, and then finished to final size on surface grinders then you will understand how I design such parts.

Two sanding the flat mating surfaces of the parts to be laminated I adhere fine sand paper to a precision granite plate and lightly sand away the 3D printed ridges, and use micrometers to test the part thickness.

To sand other parts that are in confined spaces I use small diamond file plates, and square rods.

In regards Poron foam's ability to retain its spring, I expect that the foam will not degrade within my lifetime, or at least 25 years. NASA used poron foam in the hubble telescope without failures

[lassethomas]

Poron foam, which is a foamed elastomeric urethane material in sheet form that is very durable, and great for seals and thin springs. I used it in my battery packs to keep the battery cells in constant contact with the copper terminals even under heavy vibrations of off road biking. So I'll use small strips of poron foam with 3M adhesive to fasten the mounts onto the back base plate... this will work very well at maintaining firm contact between the rollers and the film, and I'm fairly confident that the technique will resist the sheer loads well enough too. You can see in the image how small the parts will be.



Looks absolutely brilliant. Nice to have the ability to work in metal too.

Poron sounds like something i wanted my whole life. Can you reveal from where you sourced it?

[TorontoBuilder]

Looks absolutely brilliant. Nice to have the ability to work in metal too.

Poron sounds like something i wanted my whole life. Can you reveal from where you sourced it?

I sourced mine from a local healthcare supplier that supplies materials for orthotics manufacturers. i'm sure you can find a similar supplier in Sweden. This is ideal for me since most firms that make orthotics are small and low volume purchasers so those who supply them dont have obscene minimum order requirements. They offer Poron in multiple thicknesses and in grades well suited to use as spring-like uses.

[Graham Patterson]

I like the idea of making mounting jigs - easy enough to define a block and subtract the volume of the piece in software. One thing I do with larger objects is print a slice or portion of the whole to test fit.

[TorontoBuilder]

I like the idea of making mounting jigs - easy enough to define a block and subtract the volume of the piece in software. One thing I do with larger objects is print a slice or portion of the whole to test fit.

Yes, absolutely test print slices/segments to test, even after calibrating your printer. It is so slow to print some parts that to find out they wont work after 24 hour print is tragic.

Just bear in mind that when you use the split body function to create any jig or mould you need to make minor tweeks to scale the jig up slightly and perhaps add a slight draft angle to the sides so the jig/mould will close and then open again. The ridges from 3D prints can mean that tight fitting jigs without a draft become locked to the part... Horizontal surfaces are fine without changes, in fact they're the clamping faces so should not be modified.

[ic-racer]

I did not create these files. I just downloaded the files and sent them to a printing facility for black resin. I'm very happy with the result.

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[TorontoBuilder]

I did not create these files. I just downloaded the files and sent them to a printing facility for black resin. I'm very happy with the result.

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What is the source? is this a lens tester rig?

[ic-racer]

Parts are here: ( https://github.com/srozum/film_camera_tester )

It is a shutter tester (focal plane and leaf) and calibrated light source for testing meters.

[TorontoBuilder]

Parts are here: ( https://github.com/srozum/film_camera_tester )

It is a shutter tester (focal plane and leaf) and calibrated light source for testing meters.

Thank you kindly for the link and clarification.

I'll have to give this a go because I have several shutters that need testing as well as my bessa 1 camera.

[malexand]

Hi all 3-D printing LFers out there - just posted version 1.0 of a LF rotating panorama (Cirkut) camera I'm working on
https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?177057-New-Cirkut-type-pano-graflex-build

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[lassethomas]

Hi all 3-D printing LFers out there - just posted version 1.0 of a LF rotating panorama (Cirkut) camera I'm working on
https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?177057-New-Cirkut-type-pano-graflex-build


Very cool project!

[xandr]

I was tempted to 3D print a Packard shutter based on a patent drawing from 1895. It was a long process until the thing worked. Because of the friction, I added two springs to the shutter - also using 3D printing. Now it works relatively well. The special thing about this project is that I can print the shutter in different sizes, adapted to the respective lens size.
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Construction in Blender:
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First attempt:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145497036@N02/53644584824/in/album-72177720316113882/
mounted on a camera

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145497036@N02/53644245431/in/album-72177720316113882/

[malexand]

Nice!