Trying Out An Arca D4 Tripod Head

[neil poulsen]

I’ve been very satisfied with my Manfrotto 3039, three-way tripod head. This is the Manfrotto upgrade to the Bogan 3047 head that’s so well known. But, I’ve always had a yen for a tripod head that’s gear driven. Perusing EBay, I recently came across an Arca Swiss D4 tripod head that in fact is gear driven. Of course, I’ve seen these Ebay listings before. But, their high price tag ($1K+) has always acted as an effective repellant keeping me from taking a closer look. Until this last week. I mean, it doesn’t hurt to take a look. Right? Purchasing from B&H, an item can always be returned. Oh my gosh, they have one model that’s on sale for less than $1K. ($999.) And, B&H offers credit. :)

It arrived yesterday. I have to admit, this is one sweet tripod head. It has the characteristic degrees of freedom of a three-way head. (Just like my 3039.) It rotates on it’s horizontal base by loosening a small knob. But the front to back tilt and the side to side tilt are both gear driven. What’s neat, is that each of these gear driven tilts has its own release knob that disengages that particular gear. Release either, and the head can easily and rapidly tilt the full range of motion of the respective degree of freedom. This is what one would expect. But releasing both at the same time effectively converts this three-way head into a ball head! That’s very cool. I sometimes need a ball head, and this head would give me a three-way head, and a ball head, in the same package. It’s not quite as smooth as an actual ball head; but, it’s smooth enough.

The D4 head is shown in the four photos. The second, third, and fourth photos show close up views of the head; the first photo shows the head with my 4x5 mounted on it. The two light gray, round knobs drive the gears. The two knobs shaped like planetary orbits are the release knobs. Twist the small knob at the base, and the head freely rotates horizontally in either direction. The gears on the D4 head operate very smoothly, making it easy to level a camera in just about any conceivable way. Surprisingly for a gear driven head, the D4 has a maximum load capacity of 75lbs! Unlike my 3039 head, at 1.8 lbs, this head weighs less than my Feisol CF tripod, versus more. Another nice feature, when both gears are adjusted to neutral, the vertical axis of the tripod runs right up through the middle of the head. This is not the case with either of the Manfrotto geared heads.

The base model that I’m trying out normally stands 4.2 inches tall. But by removing the 3/8” thick clamp at the top, one can easily mount other quick release system adapters. The photos show the D4 head mounted with an adapter for Manfrotto hexagonal quick release plates that are used with 3039 heads. Or, one could mount the Linhof quick release system on this head. Etc. I’ve ordered an adapter that will accept and lock onto the bottom of my camera’s rail system without the use of any quick release plate.

I’ve saved the best feature until last. What really turns my head (:)) with the D4 is that, one can twist the small knob at the top and rotate the adapter separately from the rest of the head. This means that I can horizontally pan the camera regardless of the orientation of the tripod. Very nice! With the 3039, if the tripod plate isn’t absolutely horizontal, rotating the base of the head even a little, makes it necessary to completely relevel the camera.

This one feature may push me over the edge towards keeping this head. It’s expensive. But frankly, I’d be willing to sell my rearely used 90mm SA XL lens to help make up the difference. And of course, I wouldn’t be needing my Manfrotto 3039 head any longer. Hmm. I wonder what else I can sell?

It’s worth mentioning that there are two other tripod heads currently available on EBay that offer roughly the same features as the D4. One sells for less than $5C. Another has only gear driven knobs with no release feature that sells for quite a bit less than that.

[Oslolens]

My wood head is a bit more heavy, adjustable via the 4 feet, and the Arca rail is screwed to the tripod. Same, same, but different ;)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211121/89c057dfcff2c40ef9287f672a29cb85.jpg

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[Oslolens]

After the enlarger setup shown for 5x7" I was planning to show my Linhof Kardan on top of my Arca Z1, but remembered wrong. The Linhof rail will only fit my Hejnar 3"1/4 or 83mm arca-clamp, 2. picture.

The manfrotto hexagonal clamp in between Arca camera and Arca head is quite funny! The Linhof rail can actually be used with 1/4" or 3/8" and slide, so my plans for making it smaller is put on ice.

The only drawback with these heads: there is no way back.
I tried the Sinar two-way, Burzynski ball head and a couple of Grafs, but now there is no head or an Arca.
I just bought a Majestic gear head in need of CLA, thinking I would use it in house, but at moment have no need for it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211121/3f23d6ef0ca2c0cd4cfd2d964e5fae84.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211121/d19dbda6e78fadc35ca6fcb437b1b311.jpg

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[alan_b]

The base model that I’m trying out normally stands 4.2 inches tall. But by removing the 3/8” thick clamp at the top, one can easily mount other quick release system adapters. The photos show the D4 head mounted with an adapter for Manfrotto hexagonal quick release plates that are used with 3039 heads. Or, one could mount the Linhof quick release system on this head. Etc. I’ve ordered an adapter that will accept and lock onto the bottom of my camera’s rail system without the use of any quick release plate.
Why bother with all that Manfrotto hex nonsense, or even consider adding a Linhof quick release? The rail of your Arca Swiss camera fits perfectly into the default clamp of your, wait for it... Arca Swiss head. :confused:

[fuegocito]

What? you've sold out your principle for 1 penny? :P But kidding aside, life is short so if it's within one's mean, why the hell not! Ever since gotten into the geared head game at the introduction of 410, I can never go back to anything that is not geared. I mean I still have heads that are not geared but it's alway my first option when I have the choice.

[neil poulsen]

Why bother with all that Manfrotto hex nonsense, or even consider adding a Linhof quick release? The rail of your Arca Swiss camera fits perfectly into the default clamp of your, wait for it... Arca Swiss head. :confused:

I agree, except that the default clamp I received is much too narrow. (Not really sure what quick release plate fits into that clamp?) So, the Manfrotto hex adapter that I had on hand is just temporary until the one I ordered arrives.

That aside, I thought it would be worth mentioning how easy it is to change quick release adapters. Put another way, this tripod head isn't restricted only to Arca Swiss cameras or quick release plates.

[neil poulsen]

My wood head is a bit more heavy, adjustable via the 4 feet, and the Arca rail is screwed to the tripod. Same, same, but different ;)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211121/89c057dfcff2c40ef9287f672a29cb85.jpg

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Far less expensive, and probably just as sturdy. Home made, even. :)

[neil poulsen]

. . . The only drawback with these heads: there is no way back.

This occurred to me. If ever I wanted to sell this head, it's doubtful I could even come close to what I'll need to pay to keep it. But likely, keep it I will. It's really a nice head. (Better than the one I have.)

[Hugo Zhang]

For people who use Arca heads, how do you put on a RRS level clamp on it?

[alan_b]

I agree, except that the default clamp I received is much too narrow. (Not really sure what quick release plate fits into that clamp?)
Sounds like an Arca "Monoball Fix" clamp. Check if it fits the upper extension rails of your camera.

I think it's an option to buy their heads with the Monoball Fix clamp or the standard Arca 2-step clamp that contains both.

[neil poulsen]

For people who use Arca heads, how do you put on a RRS level clamp on it?

By my way of thinking, you wouldn't need a leveling base. Because it rotates both on the bottom and on the top, the two geared tilts on the D4 themselves become the leveler. But, I'm not sure how you use your leveling base?

One minor criticism of the D4 head: I think it's an excellent head for 6x9 or 4x5, or any 35mm or medium format camera. But, I'm keeping my second 3039 head that I have for 8x10. The actual contact area between the D4 head and the tripod crown (base) is only about 1 7/8" in diameter, whereas the contact area for the 3039 is 2 5/8" in diameter. In spite of the D4's 75 lbs weight capacity, I think that the latter head may be better for a larger camera.

Plus, if ever there's a need, I can use the 3039 head with the Bogen 4"x4" quick release plate that I have.

[neil poulsen]

Sounds like an Arca "Monoball Fix" clamp. Check if it fits the upper extension rails of your camera.

I think it's an option to buy their heads with the Monoball Fix clamp or the standard Arca 2-step clamp that contains both.

I did, and it doesn't even come close. The 2-step clamp D4 was more expensive. Better to spend less than $40 on the 3rd party, non-Arca clamp that I ordered. And, the 2-step clamp looked over-complicated to me.

[Hugo Zhang]

I was asking how do you put this on tis head?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1301073-REG/really_right_stuff_b2_lr_ii_lever_release_style_quick_release_clamp.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-eeMBhCpARIsAAZfxZDVcuYYzEqhy_TrDCPZ9o0aoZQxKsCo8eWD62tUtwWo-fVHfDZVQuoaAu31EALw_wcB

[neil poulsen]

Hugo,

Sorry; I misread "level" in your post to be leveler. (In fact, RRS sells a leveler as well.)

Your new clamp should easily attach to the top of the D4. One uses the correctly sized Allen wrench to remove a screw in the center of the default clamp, remove that clamp, and then perhaps even use the same screw to attach the new clamp from your B&H listing. Like the clamp you're considering, the threads in the head are also metric 6.

To attach, I would completely screw in a metric 6 screw that's long enough into the your new clamp, and then screw the clamp and screw together into the top of the D4. Like I say, you might even be able to use the same screw that came with the D4.

What kind of camera are you thinking of using with a D4 head? I ask, because the clamp that comes with the tripod head has two, thin pins that extend through the clamp and down into the top of the head. The purpose of these two pins is to prevent the clamp from rotating on top of the head.

If you're planning to use the head to hold a view camera level, then no problem. But, should you put a camera on that will sometimes need to be turned sideways, not having these pins might cause a problem. In that case, you would be better off getting an Arca Swiss clamp that's specifically designed for the D4 head.

The new clamp that I've purchased looks very similar to the one that you're considering.

[alan_b]

I did, and it doesn't even come close. The 2-step clamp D4 was more expensive. Better to spend less than $40 on the 3rd party, non-Arca clamp that I ordered. And, the 2-step clamp looked over-complicated to me.

I had the same initial reaction to the 2-step clamp, and changed it out for different ones. It's offset shape and steps come in handy in certain situations though, so I changed back.

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[neil poulsen]

Alan,

Thanks for your post. It never occurred to me that the narrower clamp was meant for rails, versus the optical bench. As it turns out, I have Type I rails, so it wouldn't work for me. (Unless I pre-drilled holes in the bottom of the rail or shaved off the pins.)

Interesting though; the default clamp that I received completely by-passes the optical bench, or bracket. The fact that the Type II rails have extensions makes this possible. There's really no need for the bench/bracket. That also reduces the weight of the camera. Hmm. I may have to consider that avenue. After all, I have the clamp.

I'll wait to see how well my 3rd part clamps works.

It looks like you have "THE CUBE." What are your general thoughts on that thoughtful piece of equipment?

neil

[Jeff Keller]

Didn't Arca Swiss start putting loctite on the screws or something a few years ago so that if you wanted to change the clamp it became a factory repair?

I replaced the clamp on an old AS head but a newer head has a screw that I don't seem to be able budge.




The new clamp that I've purchased looks very similar to the one that you're considering.

[neil poulsen]

It was a little tough removing mine; I had to apply quite a bit of leverage But as opposed to Loctite, the screw and threaded hole were coated with a lubricant. So, it wasn't a problem.

[mike rosenlof]

I bought one of these heads a few months ago. I'm very happy with it. It has probably spoiled me to the point where a non-geared head is not precise enough. Drawbacks? Maybe a bit heavy, maybe. I have it on a Gitzo GT4553, and it makes for a compact but sturdy tripod for travel that's high enough for me to use without crouching. Oh, the other drawback, price!

[Jeff Keller]

Thank you


It was a little tough removing mine; I had to apply quite a bit of leverage But as opposed to Loctite, the screw and threaded hole were coated with a lubricant. So, it wasn't a problem.

[alan_b]

Alan,

Thanks for your post. It never occurred to me that the narrower clamp was meant for rails, versus the optical bench. As it turns out, I have Type I rails, so it wouldn't work for me. (Unless I pre-drilled holes in the bottom of the rail or shaved off the pins.)

Interesting though; the default clamp that I received completely by-passes the optical bench, or bracket. The fact that the Type II rails have extensions makes this possible. There's really no need for the bench/bracket. That also reduces the weight of the camera. Hmm. I may have to consider that avenue. After all, I have the clamp.

I'll wait to see how well my 3rd part clamps works.

It looks like you have "THE CUBE." What are your general thoughts on that thoughtful piece of equipment?

neil
Yes, the ability to leave the bench home/in the car is a neat trick for saving pack weight.

--

The Cube is great - well-designed and executed. The things I like most about it are the gear ratios, virtual tilt points, and construction quality.

The gearing is a good compromise between speed and precision, and holds medium loads well. It’s fast enough that I don’t miss a quick-disengage feature. The self-locking is good, but I’d look elsewhere (Sinar pan-tilt) if 8x10 was my primary use.

I shoot architecture for a living, and do a lot of tightly-composed interior and detail shots. The more centered positioning via the goniometers is a real time saver in many cases.

Construction quality is very high, and design for repairability is evident. (I also own a Manfrotto 410 geared head which, while very serviceable, basically eats itself under heavy use & adjustment.)

The cost is high (for me), so it really needed to deliver time savings on the job, along with durability and reliability - which it does. I do wish the bottom panning base was larger diameter to make a more solid connection with tripod top plates.

[speedfreak]

I too am a new convert to the D4. It’s really pretty great. I’ve had the 410 a few different times, and while it can certainly get the job done, the small amount of slop that develops over time degrades confidence in the head. I still keep a 410 around with a Hejnar adapter for the Arca style release, but it’s been relegated to the closet since the D4 arrived.
I’ve installed a 60mm round plate with dovetail base that allows me to quickly attach the head to the tripod. Great for when I want to switch out to the 410 or the Arca Z1, etc.. but also helps me protect my investment. For as long as I’ve been making pictures my heads and tripods have kind of been beaters. Just mid priced, used equipment that gets set in the truck or by the door and sometimes, inevitably, takes a spill. They take a lickin’ but keep on tickin’. And there’s a good argument to made for a setup that can see some use and abuse but is durable enough to perform, but NOBODY ever likes to see there equipment hit the ground. So now with this hefty investment I remove the head quickly and stash in the bag when I’m finished with the shot. The new reality of owning nice, precision equipment!

[Oslolens]

I remove the head quickly and stash in the bag when I’m finished with the shot. !

I use a padded lens bag that fits nicely on, it help to keep the dust out of my Z1

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[neil poulsen]

I use a padded lens bag that fits nicely on, it help to keep the dust out of my Z1

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Thanks; great idea. I'm going to do this.

[neil poulsen]

Yes, the ability to leave the bench home/in the car is a neat trick for saving pack weight.

--

The Cube is great - well-designed and executed. The things I like most about it are the gear ratios, virtual tilt points, and construction quality.

The gearing is a good compromise between speed and precision, and holds medium loads well. It’s fast enough that I don’t miss a quick-disengage feature. The self-locking is good, but I’d look elsewhere (Sinar pan-tilt) if 8x10 was my primary use.

I shoot architecture for a living, and do a lot of tightly-composed interior and detail shots. The more centered positioning via the goniometers is a real time saver in many cases.

Construction quality is very high, and design for repairability is evident. (I also own a Manfrotto 410 geared head which, while very serviceable, basically eats itself under heavy use & adjustment.)

The cost is high (for me), so it really needed to deliver time savings on the job, along with durability and reliability - which it does. I do wish the bottom panning base was larger diameter to make a more solid connection with tripod top plates.

Thanks for your summary of the Cube; I've always been curious about that piece of equipment.

I noticed the same about the panning base; the same is true both at the base and at the top. Even though the head has a 70 lbs weight capacity, I'll limit use to 6x9 and 4x5.

I'm saving one of my 3039's for the 8x10. My Feisol tripod has kind of a quick release mechanism for the center column, which can be quickly and easily replaced with a flat plate with the 3039 attached. So, no center column for 8x10, and none desired nor needed.

[neil poulsen]

I too am a new convert to the D4. It’s really pretty great. I’ve had the 410 a few different times, and while it can certainly get the job done, the small amount of slop that develops over time degrades confidence in the head. I still keep a 410 around with a Hejnar adapter for the Arca style release, but it’s been relegated to the closet since the D4 arrived. . .

I've thought about the 410 on occasion. But, I didn't care for its asymmetrical design. And, I didn't care for the quick release system that was inherent in it's construction. I mentioned the two alternatives I've seen on EBay in the opening post.

But in spite of its high price, the anticipated build quality and the styling roped me into a D4.

[speedfreak]

I do like the idea of the protective cover, but the soft sacks I already have are just a bit too small. Any recommendations for a nice padded satchel or something even semi-rigid? A nice molded clamshell design would be pretty cool, maybe even out of fine leather..hmm….?
On another note, here’s a pic of my setup using a Leofoto tripod, leveling bowl base with quick release, Hejnar 60mm dovetail plate and D4 head. Works very well and is solid. The whole platform with the tripod, D4 head and Arca Swiss rail is one of the best modular systems I’ve used and sets up/breaks down extremely fast.
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[Oslolens]

For the protective cover I use a lens pouch which was a freebie from Robert White, the strap comes handy to fix it to the tripod so not come off.
Some mattress material is put in for extra protection.
The pouch not neoprene, so I suspect it to last a while.
The closest I have found is the Think Tank Lens Changer 35. It lacks the strap, and it may be too small for the D4, and maybe even for the my Z1.
I have used a golf club wrap- it does protect from impact, but not so much from dust and sand.

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[neil poulsen]

. . . On another note, here’s a pic of my setup using a Leofoto tripod, leveling bowl base with quick release, Hejnar 60mm dovetail plate and D4 head. . .

That's a nice setup.

Out of curiosity, why the leveler, given that the D4 rotates on the top and the bottom? I'm thinking that the D4 itself levels the rotating adapter at the top?

[speedfreak]

I’ve had a leveling base of some sort for quite a while so at this point it’s part of how I prefer to work. For a head with a top panning feature it might be unnecessary but I do think there are some benefits. By using the leveling base I can level the entire head right from the start so any panning adjustments I make from the base of the head. Making panning adjustments from the base allows all the controls on the head to stay oriented to the preferred planes of adjustment. By this I mean that one adjustment for pitch (front/back) and one for roll (left/right). These controls maintain their predictability when at 90° angles (0,90,180, and 270). If I adjust the pan a few degrees to adjust a composition then my head controls lose their ability to adjust the camera in separate planes (from the camera perspective). The adjustments become a combination of roll and pitch. This loss of predictability is why I only use the top pan in rare situations with the view camera. Now, if I was interested in leveling the head perfectly and then wanting to shoot some multi row panos’ then this feature is mandatory.

[speedfreak]

I also just purchase a Tenba soft pouch for the head. Most pouches seem to have a 4” throat which is too tight to fit over the knobs, but the Tenba is 4.5” so I suspect it’ll fit a bit better. The pouch isn’t super padded so we’ll see if it’s a viable option long term. I’ll report back when it arrives.