Best Developer For 4x5 Hard Rubber 1/2 Gallon Tanks

[Wordsandpixels]

I just inherited a bunch of Kodak 4x5 hard rubber tanks. They use 1/2 gallon, so I’m having difficulty choosing a developer. D-76 1:1 for example, would use 1 quart of stock, not very economical for processing 6-10 sheets. I would process only that many sheets in a month. What would you choose? I also have two left thumbs, so loading MOD54 isn’t easy. TIA.

[nolindan]

I believe HC-110 is the cheapest commercial developer available.

Some of the Pyro developers work at extreme dilutions and may be even cheaper.

I doubt, though, that either would survive a month at working dilution.

[Dugan]

Mix your own D-23.
Use a floating lid, and replenish.

[Jody_S]

When I was using the FR tank or similar, I would use extreme dilutions of HC-110 or similar, something like 1:100, and used stand development, sometimes semi-stand (1 agitation). It was the only way I could control contrast and get around the uneven dev problem with those tanks.

[Michael R]

The simplest and likely most economical way to do this with consistency would be HC-110 (or Ilford Ilfotec HC) or Rodinal. Alternatively, replenished XTOL.


I just inherited a bunch of Kodak 4x5 hard rubber tanks. They use 1/2 gallon, so I’m having difficulty choosing a developer. D-76 1:1 for example, would use 1 quart of stock, not very economical for processing 6-10 sheets. I would process only that many sheets in a month. What would you choose? I also have two left thumbs, so loading MOD54 isn’t easy. TIA.

[Ironage]

I would second the D-23 and replenish. The greatest advantage of using tanks is that you can leave developers like D-23, D-76, or DK-50 and leave them in the tanks for months or even a year with replenishment. These developers should be not be diluted when used in this way.

[jnantz]

DK50 and replenish it with DK50R.. or go to Bluegrass Packaging and get some Harvey's 777.
Keep track of how many films you put through it and when its time to mix more, leave 1/3 the tank to season the new tank.
when I apprenticed with a portrait photographer she used DK50/tri x/tri x ortho and this was standard operating procedure ( for decades ).
I currently do something similar with Sumatra based Caffenol C spiked with a little Dektol or ANsco130 print developer. it works great.

[esearing]

HC110 @ 1:63 ounces - Nice dilution since it is double the normal time, but very handy when you need to reduce time to contract your contrast.
Pyrocat HD / M 18mlA+18mlB+1850ml W

IF only developing a single sheet use some thick acrylic or thick plastic in the tank to reduce the developer volume needed. Drill holes and zip tie it to a hanger and tape it down or chip clip it to sides if it floats.

[Daniel Unkefer]

My local brick and mortar camera store sold out to the bare walls. I bought all of their DK-50 cheap cheap to use in my 3 1/2 gallon Kodak Tanks. Two dollars a packet. :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/4436/36359392473_590071049e_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XoXoD8)DSC05898 (https://flic.kr/p/XoXoD8) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

The DK-50 Replenisher I bought on Ebay

https://live.staticflickr.com/4362/36595102673_7efff52d96_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XKMt56)dk-50 replenisher (https://flic.kr/p/XKMt56) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

[jnantz]

My local brick and mortar camera store sold out to the bare walls. I bought all of their DK-50 cheap cheap to use in my 3 1/2 gallon Kodak Tanks. Two dollars a packet. :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/4436/36359392473_590071049e_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XoXoD8)DSC05898 (https://flic.kr/p/XoXoD8) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

The DK-50 Replenisher I bought on Ebay


https://live.staticflickr.com/4362/36595102673_7efff52d96_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XKMt56)dk-50 replenisher (https://flic.kr/p/XKMt56) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

THUMBS UP!

I think the formulary the chemical components to mix both of these from scratch if you get into a pickle.

[Jim Noel]

We used D-23 at the college. Each user was responsible to add more developer to the tank to bring it up to the full line. Not replenisher, D-23. Each tank was changed at the beginning of a new semester. The highly used developer I bottled for use at home on negatives made of flat images in flat light.

[Wordsandpixels]

Forgot about D-23. Good idea. I’ve been trying to use the less-thirsty MOD54 plastic reels/Patterson tank, with pretty poor results. HC-110 seems to be popular with large formats, so I may play around with the dilutions mentioned above. Maybe wait until I have more exposed film before processing, as I’ve got plenty of hangars and tanks. Many thanks for all your ideas and comments — this is a great group.

[Wordsandpixels]

Good idea. I can make my own floating lid.

[LabRat]

Another tip for the hard rubber tanks is to not leave developer and other chems in them for prolonged periods as the solutions dry slightly and leave a ring/stain with crust that solids can get into solutions leaving debris that can attach to film... The tanks can permanently stain, and a photographer I know had to throw out tanks that the walls seriously distorted... And they were disgustingly crusty...

For 3 1/2 gallon tanks, they are hard to drain, but for tanks under a gallon, not hard to empty into a large graduate or pail and then funnel into a sealed bottle... And it gives you a chance to filter the solution to remove submerged dust/debris that's there...

Even stainless tanks can rust over long intervals from prolonged chem exposure...

I use a dilute version of DK-50 as a one-shot in my tanks and fresh/consistent in use, and as dilute, economical to use...

Steve K

[Wordsandpixels]

Another tip for the hard rubber tanks is to not leave developer and other chems in them for prolonged periods as the solutions dry slightly and leave a ring/stain with crust that solids can get into solutions leaving debris that can attach to film... The tanks can permanently stain, and a photographer I know had to throw out tanks that the walls seriously distorted... And they were disgustingly crusty...

For 3 1/2 gallon tanks, they are hard to drain, but for tanks under a gallon, not hard to empty into a large graduate or pail and then funnel into a sealed bottle... And it gives you a chance to filter the solution to remove submerged dust/debris that's there...

Even stainless tanks can rust over long intervals from prolonged chem exposure...

I use a dilute version of DK-50 as a one-shot in my tanks and fresh/consistent in use, and as dilute, economical to use...

Steve K

[Wordsandpixels]

Thanks for that. These are half gallon rubber tanks and pouring chems back in bottles is easy.

[Duolab123]

I would choose a published formula for developer and developer replenisher, get some floating lids and some bottles and get to it . I had a 1 gallon glass bottle that I scratched a line at 1 gallon. I used that gallon for half gallon 4x5 and 1 gallon 5x7. Lasted over a year never died.

Obvious choices are old published formulas from Kodak. D-76, D-23, DK-50. All, have proper replenisher formulas as well. You can use XTOL as well, replenish following the instructions. I love deep tanks so quick to get going.

[Duolab123]

Good idea. I can make my own floating lid.

I've only used floating lids for a few hours at a time with the smaller tanks, best to keep developer and fixer in a nice bottle overnight etc. Get a quart, pint, and 2 half pint bottles for the replenisher. Use the small bottles first then decant the Quart into the pint and 2 half pints. That way your replenisher will last for 6 months or better. Get on Ebay and find a nice old school Ohaus mechanical balance, Harvard Trip balance or a triple beam. So darn much fun.

[david@bigeleisenlaw.com]

I have used x-tol and pmk. Both work fine.

David

[Wordsandpixels]

Thanks all. I'm leaning towards D-23 with replenisher, draining the tanks after use, keep it simple. I saw videos on how to make up D-23 with just kitchen spoon measures. Do I need balance scales? I never even took chemistry, and if I did would have undoubtedly failed it :-)