Nikkor-W 210mm old type 77mm filter ring has 37mm rise on 8x10"

[Oslolens]

I set up my Linhof Kardan to measure max rise on my 210mm Nikkor-W. Note this is the version with 77mm filter-front.
I managed to get 37mm of rise without seeing dark corners - and the distant leaves did look sharp when stopping down to f32.
This is opposed to a 210mm Symmar-S which I sacrificed for the shutter and sold the lens elements, I did not measure the rise on the Symmar, but the details in the corner did not sharpen up when stopped down.
My Nikkor-W is mounted to a Prontor shutter and a Linhof #3 due to a funny looking distance ring. Not selling ;)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/6e5bb26a44ed40173e5a6d4d44d1822d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/7ee1424095b6ec8a55e3acfe765c54f6.jpg

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[Oslolens]

The 210mm G-Claron I bought in a wimse could do only 7mm more before dark corners, but lost the sharpness ca 20mm before turning dark at f32.
This is permanently mounted in an aperture and hopefully I will be getting back my €100https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/e3d32804ea705854571ea08c0859b797.jpg

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[Oslolens]

My 210mm Macro-Sironar-N I could rise 23mm before corners got dark, but at f22 the corners was still usable for enlargement.
All of this is done at infinity meaning some trees half a km or mile away, and only seen on the ground glass.
I had to angle up my camera to make the front and back parallel.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/2ecd6a31e6891bc3b44bc28f745a4146.jpg

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[Bob Salomon]

My 210mm Macro-Sironar-N I could rise 23mm before corners got dark, but at f22 the corners was still usable for enlargement.
All of this is done at infinity meaning some trees half a km or mile away, and only seen on the ground glass.
I had to angle up my camera to make the front and back parallel.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/2ecd6a31e6891bc3b44bc28f745a4146.jpg

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This lens is designed for 1:3 to 3:1.
Why would you test it at infinity?

[Greg]

I have the version with 67mm front threads. Focused at infinity and stopped down does cover 8x10 but essentially with no rise. I assume the red ring (which mine does not have) was the last version made?

[Oslolens]

I assume the red ring (which mine does not have) was the last version made?

Nope, this "most" is older version, if the Nikon literature is for the newest lenses.
The red ring is my adding. Red on all 210, blue on 75mm, yellow on 90 etc, this is marked on my camera to know what hole to put the front standard in to.

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[Bernice Loui]

Image circle of illumination is NOT the same as Image circle of lens performance designed into the lens as intended.

Sure, the lens could illuminate the 8x10 film area with _X_ amount of camera movement stopped down to _f-stop_, but what about the lens optical performance with these camera movements applied? Light fall off will remain a factor as will be the long list of optical performance realities when any lens is pressed beyond their designed image circle of optical performance. Would be wise and prudent to respect the lens specifications for image circle published by Nikon for ALL their view camera lenses.


Proper ~200mm lens for 8x10 would be:

200mm Rodenstock Grandagon.

210mm Schneider Super Angulon.

210mm Schneider Super Symmar XL.


None of the above lenses are small, low cost, compact or common.


Bernice

[John Layton]

Makes no sense for that 210 macro to give such great coverage at infinity - especially if the margins are indeed sharp. Implies some sort of compromise for macro use - but then again?

But if that old Nikkor-W adds 74mm over in total coverage, with true sharpness as is mentioned...that's quite amazing!

[Bernice Loui]

Verifiable by Nikon published specification for this specific Nikkor-W.

~What does Nikon say about the image circle for this version of their Nikkor-W _?_


Bernice




But if that old Nikkor-W adds 74mm over in total coverage, with true sharpness as is mentioned...that's quite amazing!

[Maris Rusis]

I use a Nikkor-W 210mm lens with the 77mm front on my Tachihara 810HD 8x10 field camera as a mild wide-angle for landscape work. The combo is already set up here so I checked the coverage a couple of minutes ago.
With the format arranged in portrait orientation the maximum rise before cut-off is 25mm and no more; not even 26mm.
Because the vignetting that limits coverage is mechanical rather than optical I find extreme corner image quality is still good enough for the little pieces of sky, tree, or rock that usually end up there.

[Oslolens]

I use a Nikkor-W 210mm lens with the 77mm front on my Tachihara 810HD 8x10 field camera as a mild wide-angle for landscape work. The combo is already set up here so I checked the coverage a couple of minutes ago.
With the format arranged in portrait orientation the maximum rise before cut-off is 25mm and no more; not even 26mm.
Because the vignetting that limits coverage is mechanical rather than optical I find extreme corner image quality is still good enough for the little pieces of sky, tree, or rock that usually end up there.

My numbers might not be accurate, and I did forget to mention orientation.
How about landscape orientation? How much can you rise?

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[Maris Rusis]

I just checked my Nikkor-W 210mm f5.6 lens with the 77mm front on the 8x10 Tachihara this time with the back in landscape orientation.
Focussed on infinity and keeping everything square and parallel and stopped down to f64 I can get 30mm of rise (not 31mm) before mechanical vignetting nips off the corner of the image.

My lens is old Serial Number 741104 and only a limited number of this style was made pre 1982 as far as I can discover. It is in a Copal #1 shutter marked "Nikon" with a silver speed ring.
There may be even more exotic versions with bigger image circles out there.

I made the curious discovery a few years ago that the Nikkor-W 210mm is useable as a convertible lens. With the front group screwed off the shutter the focal length jumps to 700mm and a bit
and well stopped down it gives ok results for contact printing the 8x10 format. A bit dim for focussing though.