View Full Version : 90mm Linhof Schneider 6.8 ?

Ron Stoecklein
13-Feb-2006, 15:29
Question which you might be able to help me with--I purchased a 90mm Linhof Schneider angulon 6.8 on EBAY--$230.00--got it strictly for backpacking--due to the weight factor.--I am aware that I have no movements to speak of with that lens---the lens is really clean--the seller represented that the shutter and aperture settings were accurate--

The shutter is definitely not accurate at slower speeds--I can send it to SK Grimes and my guess it will be about $150.00 (with shippeing, etc.)and I'll have a good lens--or I am confident I could return the lens as the seller has a high volume of sales and a high feedback rating.

Any thoughts as to whether the lens is worth it (assuming the glass and body of the lens are good)--or thoughts as to a better lens with around the same weight (around 130 grams).


Juergen Sattler
13-Feb-2006, 15:54
You don't have to spend that much for a CLA - just send the shutter to Carol Miller at Flutot's camera and she'll fix it for you for $45. I would communicate with the seller and see if he'she is willing to chip in for the CLA, as you bought this lens because it was described as 100% accurate.
You can find Carol's address by googling for Flutot's camera repair.

David A. Goldfarb
13-Feb-2006, 15:55
Slow long speeds are to be expected for that shutter, if it hasn't had a recent CLA. Send it to Carol Flutot, who will take care of it for a lot less. It's a fairly simple fix.

My backpacking combo are that lens and the 135/5.6 Sironar-N. Both are tiny and take the same filter size, so they're a good combination.

Christopher Perez
13-Feb-2006, 16:13
The 130gram 90mm Angulon f/6.8 is a wonderful optic. Mine is diffraction limited at f/16 and f/22. Which makes it as sharp as the more complex designed optics. It only has 4 surface to air interfaces, so even with single coating it is as contrasty as many of the more complex multi-coated designs.

I don't think you could do any better than this kind of lens in this focal length (as long as people are aware of their coverage).

As for price, I have seen people pay less than what you did. But people have also sometimes pay more (for some reason). Do a search on completed items on that auction site to get an idea of what people paid for theirs.

Ron Stoecklein
14-Feb-2006, 00:39
Thanks for the information. I have in fact packaged the lens to send to Flutot's and perhaps I can get the seller to pick up part of the cost--if I was hardnosed my guess is that if I indicated that I would publish the seller's statement as to accuracy of the shutter on this forum they would be smart to pay the full cost of cleaning--hmmm.


Frank Petronio
14-Feb-2006, 06:26
A late model 90 Angulon in a modern Compur is wonderful lens, and I have even seen them as late as 11 million serial numbers in Copal 0 shutters.

As for shutter accuracy in an eBay listing, unless they are saying it was timed and CLA'd, I don't think you should expect more than "sounds good" type of evaluations. Even if you found a 1970s Angulon the shutter would still be a generation old.... shame on the seller for overstating the case but the buyer needs to beware too.

Ted Harris
14-Feb-2006, 06:44
Frank makes a good point. This lens had a fairly long production run and there could be wild swings in poerformance between one with a late versus an early date of manufacture. I have owned two but both of them dated fromn the late '50's to early '60's and neither was a particularly good performer by today's standards.

Christopher Perez
14-Feb-2006, 09:27
I agree with what Ted and Frank said.

In my case, I must have gotten a "winner". I compared it against my 110XL SuperWonderLens: http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/test/AngSSXL.html

Patrik Roseen
15-Feb-2006, 10:51
I too used to have a great respect for shutter CLAs and thought that this was a really hard thing to do until I one day decided to fix those slow shutter speeds myself. I started to read the shutter threads, theories of CLA, what to avoid and which chemicals to use on this forum!!!
I know I will probably stir up some dust regarding this issue where people will warn us from doing this and that, but I dare it anyway. With some small screwdrivers and appropriate tools it's rather easy to get into the shutters...do not use unnecessary force...and avoid screwing things back harder than necessary. For the shutters mentioned below you can fire them off while they are open except for the Compur which needs some special handling.
The first shutter I 'went' into was a Prontor-S. And it was amazingly easy to get those slow speeds going ...just a tiny amount of lubrication on the tip of my smallest screwdriver onto the thing going back and forth (controling the pace of the last wheel in the row). I did not have to remove any springs, or wheels, or anything.
The second shutter was a Polaroid Copal-1. Even simpler ... the same procedure and spinning like a cat.
The third shutter was also a Polaroid Copal-1 with stuck shutter blades. I put this into a bath of 'medical bensin'. After the shutter blades dried I have had no problems what so ever.
The fourth shutter was a Synchro-Compur (with a schneider 6.8/90mm Angulon) where the main spring was broken in one end. Now this has a special procedure to get into, but once you figure it out its pretty straight forward. The compur shutter is really messy inside and you have to be careful with the tension ring and also put the 1/500 spring in the right place when reassembling it. This shutter had a broken main spring and to fix the spring I had to remove a few parts, adjust the spring and put it in place and then put everything back again. Works great!
The fifth shutter was a RAPAX. The mechanism for B and T release is such that it easily get stuck so that the shutter won't close. This was also rather easy to fix...just takes some thinking to figure out how those things work. (There were only two loose wheels in the flash-mechanism that you need to watch out for.)

What I really want to say is that if you are used to fixing mechanical things, there is nothing preventing you from fixing your own shutters. Especially if the only problem is that the longer times are sticky. And it is so rewarding knowing that you managed to do it yourself and that you can fix any problems also in the field if necessary. BUT BE CAREFUL!