Rollei Infrared 400

[Ari]

I'm trying to find a filter for this film, so I'm wondering what filters people already use.
Complicating matters, I need to find a 95mm filter, which isn't always available.
The ultimate goal is to get a real infrared look, or as much as is possible, post-HIE/Konica.

I've read some threads and reviews online that a 760nm filter was used with great success, while others said that the 720nm filter is the only one that'll work, at least practically.
Also, looking to process this in HC-110, either dilution A or B.

Would love to hear anyone's thoughts on this film, and exposure/processing, as it's the last IR film standing.

Thanks in advance.

[paulbarden]

Ari, I use the R72 filter 95% of the time with this film. The rest of the time I use a #25 red, but the R72 is better. I’ve tried the polyester IR filters with a higher cutoff, and gotten blank film for my reward.
Rollei IR processes beautifully in Xtol.

I've used the 4x5 sheet film version of the Rollei IR, and as others have said, sometimes its cut a bit too large for film holders. But I've found only an occasional sheet suffers from this. Otherwise its excellent in 4x5. Here's an example (https://live.staticflickr.com/917/39816727020_9db4687bfa_3k.jpg) Click on it in your browser to see full size.

[Barry Kirsten]

Hi Ari,

I used a 720nm filter with Rollei 400 IR rollfilm. I developed it in home-mixed D76 stock for 6 min. The results were excellent and I wouldn't change a thing. I haven't used it in sheet film, but I wouldn't expect it to be much different. Regards...

[agregov]

I just finished some testing to get a normal development time for Rollei 400 4x5 in a Jobo 3010 drum. 8m at stock dilution XTOL (500ml for 10 sheets). I rated the film at 100asa without the IR filter. One interesting note in the documentation for the film, Rollei says it's a 400 speed film for IR and a 200 speed film for standard b&w. That's probably why I'm down at 100asa for getting a full ten zones for my N (with no filter). I use 092 filters and I'm quite happy with the IR effect--don't feel I need more wood effect. They're about 4 stops versus the R72 which is 5 stops I believe. The R72 will likely get you the max IR effect you can see with the film. I use the 092 because I also shoot the film in 35mm. There I shoot with a Leica and wanted to hand shoot. So, a less powerful filter makes more sense there. Nice thing about the Leica is it's a rangefinder so you can keep the filter on the lens and see what you're shooting as well as meter accurately in camera. I personally use 6asa for 4x5 film with the 092 filter. An R72 might need 3asa. I'd suggest bracketing several images at 12asa to 3asa and see which ones give you the best density, shadows and IR effect. IR film is so contrasty, I might err on a more dilute HC110 and longer dev times if you go that developer route. I don't think the developer type matters much personally.

Here's a few image samples, again with the 092 filter. These are 35mm.
215783 215784 215785

[Tin Can]

Like!

Image 1 as it suits my apocalyptic worldview

I need to try IR again

:cool:




I just finished some testing to get a normal development time for Rollei 400 4x5 in a Jobo 3010 drum. 8m at stock dilution XTOL (500ml for 10 sheets). I rated the film at 100asa without the IR filter. One interesting note in the documentation for the film, Rollei says it's a 400 speed film for IR and a 200 speed film for standard b&w. That's probably why I'm down at 100asa for getting a full ten zones for my N (with no filter). I use 092 filters and I'm quite happy with the IR effect--don't feel I need more wood effect. They're about 4 stops versus the R72 which is 5 stops I believe. The R72 will likely get you the max IR effect you can see with the film. I use the 092 because I also shoot the film in 35mm. There I shoot with a Leica and wanted to hand shoot. So, a less powerful filter makes more sense there. Nice thing about the Leica is it's a rangefinder so you can keep the filter on the lens and see what you're shooting as well as meter accurately in camera. I personally use 6asa for 4x5 film with the 092 filter. An R72 might need 3asa. I'd suggest bracketing several images at 12asa to 3asa and see which ones give you the best density, shadows and IR effect. IR film is so contrasty, I might err on a more dilute HC110 and longer dev times if you go that developer route. I don't think the developer type matters much personally.

Here's a few image samples, again with the 092 filter. These are 35mm.
215783 215784 215785

[Ari]

Thanks for the helpful replies, gents.

Paul, I'll try Xtol since that seems to be the go-to for this film, based on several sources.

Barry, I ordered an affordable 95mm R76 yesterday, then I read about your trials with the R76 filter, and cancelled my order before it shipped.
I'm now trying to find an affordable R72 in 95mm threads, much harder, but thanks for your help. You saved me from a huge headache.

Thanks for the images, Andrej. I'll be shooting 120 film on a GX680 camera (hence the need for a 95mm filter). Would be happy to try the 4x5, but I've also heard of QC problems with it. Some sheets are too big to fit in a regular 4x5 holder.

[carlo.dainese]

I'm using Rollei 400 IR 4x5 with R72. Exposing like a 6 iso and developed as 320 iso. Very thin film that sometimes moves in the holder.
Developed in D76 1+1 or ID11 1+1.

215787

[Ari]

Nice shot, Carlo. Reminds me a bit of the Kodak HIE.

[JayJayOkocha]

I used a 720nm GreenL Filter that I bought when in China. No complaints here

215792

[Ari]

Here's an example (https://live.staticflickr.com/917/39816727020_9db4687bfa_3k.jpg) Click on it in your browser to see full size.

Gorgeous shot, Paul.

[Ari]

Thanks, JayJay.

[paulbarden]

Gorgeous shot, Paul.

Thank you.

[Ari]

I found an unopened box of 4x5 Maco IR820c in my fridge, plus one roll of 120. We'll see if that film is still any good.
I also bought the Eco-Pro developer, which is apparently re-packaged XTOL with a Vitamin C shot, so looking forward to some IR fun in the next few weeks.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/758649-REG/Ecopro_747716_LegacyPro_Ascorbic_Acid_Powder.html

[agregov]

I've been using Eco Pro XTOL given all the quality issues with Kodak branded XTOL as of late and it's been working great for me. Very repeated results in the Jobo. With respect to the 4x5 sheet film, it comes on a very thin substrate film. Compared to say Kodak TRX it feels like paper. But I think you get used to working with it. Probably needs a glass negative carrier for reliable printing. The roll film can be a bit on the curly side after development. Roll film is super for bracketing while figuring out your asa.

[Barry Kirsten]

My 720 is a GreenL also. I don't have complaints with these filters either; they're of optical glass and seem very well made all round. I have IR, circ Pol and close-ups all in this brand.

Yes Ari, the Rollei IR film doesn't seem to have much response at 760nm. For the modest cost of the 49mm filter it wasn't an expensive lesson for me to learn, but I suspect the 95mm size would be a lot dearer.


I used a 720nm GreenL Filter that I bought when in China. No complaints here

215792

[Ari]

Thanks, Barry. I had a lot of trouble finding an affordable 95mm filter for 720nm.
There was a cheap ICE filter for 760nm. There were a few expensive 720 options from Hoya and others.
I finally bit the bullet and bought a semi-affordable filter from Urth, another new company, this one is based in Australia: https://urth.co/products/infrared-filter-plus?variant=35380260667543
I don't know about the filter yet, but customer service was top-notch, just what you'd want and more than you'd expect.

[John Olsen]

I use the Cokin X-Pro series filter. It's listed as a X007 equivalent to an 89B Wratten. It comes either as a 170x130mm rectangle or 120mm circle. Either way it slides into a Cokin X-series holder. The trick is to make an adapter to fit the Cokin X-holder to your lens. I make my adaptors out of various diameter PVC drain pipe sections. That way I can use the same filter on my 40mm Distagon and my 360mm Rodenstock.
For smaller lens Cokin's P-series holder has threaded inserts for popular thread sizes. Then the filter is listed as a P-007.
The Cokins aren't actually as restrictive as an 89B. I figure my Rollei film to be 6 ISO with the 007, whereas it seems more like 3 ISO with an actual 89B Wratten.

[Ari]

Thanks, John. Seems like ASA 3 or 6 is the way to go with the R72 filter.
I looked into both the Cokin X and Haida 100 systems, but neither were 100% complete or dummy-proof.
The 95mm filter will fit all my lenses with the help of step-up rings.

[JayJayOkocha]

Thanks, John. Seems like ASA 3 or 6 is the way to go with the R72 filter.
I looked into both the Cokin X and Haida 100 systems, but neither were 100% complete or dummy-proof.
The 95mm filter will fit all my lenses with the help of step-up rings.

80% of my shots (about 100 last year) were shot at ASA 3, about 15% between ASA 3 and 6 and the rest at 6.
Also pretty much all of them with IR720, IR760 did not work for me.

[Ari]

Thanks for confirming, JayJay.
One more question, it's been a long time since I've shot IR film: is re-focusing still a thing with this film?
I mean, once you've focused properly, do you then have to re-adjust and focus a bit closer to compensate for the IR wavelengths?
How much do you re-focus on a camera with no red dot on the lens, like a 4x5?

[tgtaylor]

I use the Cokin X-Pro series filter. It's listed as a X007 equivalent to an 89B Wratten. It comes either as a 170x130mm rectangle or 120mm circle. Either way it slides into a Cokin X-series holder. The trick is to make an adapter to fit the Cokin X-holder to your lens. I make my adaptors out of various diameter PVC drain pipe sections. That way I can use the same filter on my 40mm Distagon and my 360mm Rodenstock.
For smaller lens Cokin's P-series holder has threaded inserts for popular thread sizes. Then the filter is listed as a P-007.
The Cokins aren't actually as restrictive as an 89B. I figure my Rollei film to be 6 ISO with the 007, whereas it seems more like 3 ISO with an actual 89B Wratten.

I use the Cokin rectangular 100mm 007 filter with the Cokin Z-Pro holder with a 95mm filter ring and several step-up/down rings from 49mm to fit all of my 35, MF, and LF lenses. It's been a while since I last shot IR but IIRC 3 ISO was the exposure setting.

Thomas

[paulbarden]

One more question, it's been a long time since I've shot IR film: is re-focusing still a thing with this film?

Unlike Kodak HIE, this is not an issue with the Rollei film. Focus as normal and you're done.

[Ari]

Unlike Kodak HIE, this is not an issue with the Rollei film. Focus as normal and you're done.

Sweet! Thanks, Paul.

[Andrea Gazzoni]

a bit confused here about the ISO setting to use with the Cokin P007 filter, as almost all I've read says ISO 25 with this film.
I am ok with bracketing on roll film, but would like a starting point more in the ballpark

[abruzzi]

a bit confused here about the ISO setting to use with the Cokin P007 filter, as almost all I've read says ISO 25 with this film.
I am ok with bracketing on roll film, but would like a starting point more in the ballpark

Shooting it on 35mm (Kodak Retina IIIC) I did a roll with every shot at both 25 and 12, with a no-name Chinese R720 filter. Both seemed reasonably dense, but I found the 12 overall closter to where I like it. I haven't tried it at lower EI or on 4x5 though. The camera was recently CLA'd so I have every reason to expect the shutter speed was moderately accurate.

[tgtaylor]

Back when I was shooting IR the consensus was that the filter required 10 stops - that would put Rollei 400IR at ISO 3. But ISO 6 sounds familiar. What I would recommend is taking 4 test shots in the same light at ISO's 3, 6, 12, and 25 and see which one gives the result you are looking for.

Thomas

[Ari]

Some online research, and my own crude test, indicates that the filter takes about 6-6.5 stops off the reading.
So it is with my filter. Other 720nm filters may block more or less. It's a wild world out there.

[John Olsen]

a bit confused here about the ISO setting to use with the Cokin P007 filter, as almost all I've read says ISO 25 with this film.
I am ok with bracketing on roll film, but would like a starting point more in the ballpark

Well, it depends a lot on exactly which filter you use and the environment in which you shoot. Also, some of us have different metering habits. Try a test roll with bracketing and then you will know what setting work for your exposure and development process. BTW, I'm using HC-110 "B" for my work. ISO 25 seems pretty unlikely, though.

[grat]

Hoya R72 seems to be about 6 stops from my testing.

[Ari]

Using the new filter on expired (2007) Maco IR820c film while I wait for the Rollei film to arrive.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51183491412_30b7e325b3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kYULMS)

[Ari]

I found a good deal on a Haida filter set-up, similar to the Cokin, but less expensive.
It's a drop-in filter, with holder and adapter ring, the M10 series.
I used to deal in Haida filters and know them to be well-made with a more neutral color cast than most other brands.
And after comparing the way the Haida and Cokin filter holders worked, I decided I liked the Haida method. Looks faster, more stupid-proof (very important for me).

[SergeyT]

For what it is worth, after a couple less than optimal [under]exposures , for Rollei Infrared 400 through a Hoya R72 I have arrived to at least 16 seconds at F22 on a bright sunny day(clear sky). Apparently that exposure time also accounts for reciprocity failure.

[Corran]

Good thread. I just bought a 100' spool of Rollei IR 400 in 35mm and a few rolls of 120. Might try it in 4x5 too but I never shot much of the Efke IR I had in sheets. I liked Ilford's SFX with just an R25 filter, so I'll start with that, though I have a Haida 720 filter as well.

[Ari]

Bryan, if you can post some SFX with R25 shots, I'd appreciate it.
No rush, of course, just my curiosity.

[mpirie]

Unfortunately, i've suffered from the sheet film being oversized to the point where several sheets from the box would not fit my holders.

I aim for an EI of 6 with a Hoya R72, about 6 stops off of the rated 400.

Mike

[Andrew O'Neill]

This became my main IR film. I quite like it. I still have about 50 sheets of Efke IR in 8x10, though. That's lovely stuff, and much closer to old HIE. When I'm out with Rollie, I almost always use a 72R filter with a factor of 32. EI without filter is also 100. With filter, 3. I was developing it in Pyrocat-HD, but for the past few months, Xtol-R. My only criticism of the Rollie film is the extremely thin film base! But... beggars can't be choosers!

[John Olsen]

My only criticism of the Rollie film is the extremely thin film base! But... beggars can't be choosers!

I'll second that. It's like loading fairy dust. Easy to double load; you know if you can feel the film firmly that you've grabbed two sheets - and they will slide into your holders. But I love the stuff.

[Corran]

Bryan, if you can post some SFX with R25 shots, I'd appreciate it.
No rush, of course, just my curiosity.

It was nice to look back at some of those images...I need to print a couple more of my SFX shots from a trip to Florida I did two years ago! I posted them in the MF IR thread.

I also showed one weakness of the SFX film, and other Ilford films, the backing paper in hot/humid environments. I wonder how the Rollei will hold up.

I'm going to the Florida Keys next month, I will bring some Rollei IR...

[Ari]

Thanks, Bryan. I very much like the tones you get with the R25 filter, more understated than what the IR720 gives.

[Ari]

Following up: I mixed up a batch of Eco-Pro developer, had a bit of difficulty getting all of it dissolved.
Went out to shoot a quick roll of Rollei using the IR720 filer on the GX680.
Developed the film using a 1:1 dilution for 7.5 minutes, and I found that the film looked a little, well...flat. At first, I thought it was under-developed.

Sure enough, when scanning and processing in PS, I really had to boost contrast and do a lot of burning to get something adequate.
It was a bright, sunny day, around 530pm, not hazy or overcast. But looking at my film, I knew right away it looked flat and lacked contrast.
The expired Maco film I developed in HC-110 (B) looked 100 times better than this, and looked more like IR film. Same filter.

Next time, I'll try undiluted developer, and then if I still get flat-looking negs, I'll see what the HC-110 and Rollei can do.
I remember reading reviews of the Eco Pro, that it was a low-contrast developer. They weren't kidding!

These shots look fine, I like them, but both took a lot of work to get them there, work I usually don't have to do if the film is properly developed.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51196807438_c5f0d2c80d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m162bw)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51196595741_2e3ca8bf8c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m14Wfz)


For comparison's sake, here's the shot on Maco IR820c, developed in HC-110 (B) tinted blue in PS, same IR720 filter. Not a good shot, but the tree and skies are doing what they're supposed to do on IR film :

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51185598523_17e1c89cc2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kZ6zan)

[paulbarden]

I’m often disappointed when I see my results on Rollei IR film. It ain’t no HIE. Not even close.

[Ari]

Surpised to hear you say that, Paul.
That shot you linked to in post #2 is pretty frickin' awesome. I'd be happy with that look.

I suspect HC-110 will give me the results I expect, but I'll try the Eco-Pro undiluted first.
No, it won't be HIE, but it should be closer than what I got.

[Ari]

Got to some testing today with HC-110 dilution B. I like it much more than Eco-Pro/Xtol as the contrast is there.
I'm not trying to make IR film look semi-normal, I want to emphasize its IR qualities.
These test shots were slightly ruined by my developer being at 65F, not 70F. My fault, of course, and I'll soon post another series of test shots properly developed.
I shot at 50 ASA, bracketed by one stop and used an IR720 filter.

Here is the first series: https://www.flickr.com/gp/zsari/BHf3p9

[paulbarden]

Surpised to hear you say that, Paul.
That shot you linked to in post #2 is pretty frickin' awesome. I'd be happy with that look.

I suspect HC-110 will give me the results I expect, but I'll try the Eco-Pro undiluted first.
No, it won't be HIE, but it should be closer than what I got.

There is a world of difference between the Rollei film and HIE. The Rollei version barely qualifies as IR film. Sometimes I like what I see, but in the back of my mind I can picture how HIE would render a scene, and Rollei IR400 never, ever meets my expectations.
Yeah, thats a nice enough photo (the one you mentioned), but I can't help imagine how amazing it would be if it were done on HIE.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50625131607_4123f81643_h.jpg

[Ari]

These are, unfortunately, things we have to get used to in this brave new world of weird film suppliers and their shoddy films.
No one's going to make Type 665 or Type 52 again, same for Kodachrome and Plus-X. Even new FP4+ isn't the same as old FP4.
Out of all the lost films, I'd be happiest if someone would bring back HIE, as it used to be.

My old guy rant is now over. Let's get back to pretending Rollei is actually an infrared film.

[Ari]

I just added another series of test shots, this time processed correctly.
But the first 2 shots were accidentally underexposed by 1/3 stop, not a big deal but why can't this ever go easy for me?
ASA 50, HC-110 B, IR720 filter, etc etc It's all there.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/zsari/0dc805

[Peter De Smidt]

The N + 2 is looking good!

[Ari]

I like the N+1 and N-1, or 25 ASA / 100 ASA.
With a reasonably fast lens, you can shoot at F/4 and 1/125s.

[grat]

I can assure you, you didn't screw up as much as I did my first try with Rollei. The most embarrassing was that I've got a "flip" bracket so I can swing the IR filter out of the way, focus/compose, and flip the filter back. So the first try, I completely forgot to put the filter back. +6 stops of exposure produced a remarkable, if not entirely usable, negative. ;)

Then, in an effort to get rid of my 6+ month old open bottle of Ilfosol 3 (stored in 100ml bottles), I mixed Ilfosol 3 at normal 1+9 dilution, only to discover no one develops Rollei IR 400 with Ilfosol 3 at the 1+9 dilution. So I found another film that used the same time as the 1+14 dilution, and used that-- in other words, I guessed. But apparently I guessed well.

https://flic.kr/p/2m1v8an

I claim no artistic composition, and the image has not been cleaned-- it's much dustier than I expected. I admit to adjusting levels and some sharpening. ;)

[Ari]

Thanks, but it isn't my first roll. There were 3 others that I really messed up, including the same trick with/without filter.

[Tom Monego]

I just started using Rollei IR 400 in my Rolleiflex 2.8C. I am using a Hoya R72. I have a Kodak Wratten 87C I should try. I photographed at ISO 25 and 12, 12 was the best, though I was processing for ISO 25, Kodak TMax Developer at 10 minutes 70 degrees. The results were a little contrasty so I'll cut back the time next roll. Works for this image f5.6 1/50 of a second on the Rolleiflex. Just a New Hampshire dirt road early spring. Yes it isn't HIE.
216259

[Ari]

It looks great, Tom, a more subtle effect than what I aim for.
I processed some film yesterday after finishing a roll of 35mm Rollei (first 10 shots): https://www.flickr.com/gp/zsari/7F293Z

Here's one of the better ones:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51212854755_677fbe62e9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m2vgup)

The camera and lens worked quite well while I had the IR72 filter in place, but ultimately an SLR is not the best solution if you need to work quickly and accurately with a filter attached.
AF and AE were fine, no issues.

[grat]

I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TOPTOO-Adapter-Compatible-Olympus-Cameras/dp/B088FV7KJL

Mine's by UURig, who may have discontinued it, but it's nice to use to flip the filter out of position and back. I can even mount my cokin-style filter holder on it, and flip that out of the way for composition. But, as I said before, gotta remember to put the filter back in place. :)

[Ari]

Nice! I like that, and would have got it had I known.
Having too much fun with IR, I got a Haida drop-in filter, the M10 system.
I sold my SLR and plan to buy a rangefinder from a friend, a battered Contax G1 on its last legs. It'll be interesting!

[Tom Monego]

Same day clouds and sky.
Rollei 2.8C, R72, Connecticut River looking north from the East Thetford to Lyme NH bridge.
216323
Lyme Hill NH from my house
216324

[Ari]

I like the sky tones you're getting here, Tom. Not black, like mine, but slightly darker than middle grey. Nice.

[Ari]

I've now shot about 10 rolls of IR400, and feel that it's a predictable film.
At least in the sense that what I meter - for my ASA and matching development time - will give me the negative I expect.
I'm still shooting moonscapes because IR film should look strange, in my opinion.

Anyway, here's the film developed in HC-110(B) at 100F for 45 seconds: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmVL9oB5
Day for night.

[michaelfoto]

I had been gifted one 120 format roll of Rollei Infrared film, and decided to have at go a couple of days ago. My Rolleiflex E3 Planar 3.5 would be ideal as i have a clever adapter that allows the use of Leica 39mm filters on the bayonet II.
so I mounted the Leica I.R. filter and went ahead. In bright sun I exposed 1/60 sec. f 5.6 handheld. Developed in Xtol replenished for about 14 minutes. Scanned with Minolta Scan Multi Pro.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51226859868_6e7226e023_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m3K3HS)Alléen ved Gyldensteen Strand. (https://flic.kr/p/2m3K3HS) by Michael G (https://www.flickr.com/photos/63506895@N05/), on Flickr

Michael.
P.S. Unfortunately i had some mottling from backing paper.

[Ari]

Thanks for adding to the thread, Michael. Good photo.

I tried out a cheap IR950 filter with Rollei IR400, and it did produce some results.
Exposure times were counted on my watch, ranging from 2s to 15s to bracket exposures.
Results vary greatly, some have totally blocked-up blacks, some look soft and infrared-y.
But I think similar/identical results could be obtained using the IR720 filter. And you'd have shorter exposure times.

Oh, to have HIE again! At least I wouldn't have to do all this testing just to try and close to what HIE looks like.
I'm not sure if I'll pursue this line of testing, but here it is:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51230695132_9199c81716_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m45GP7)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51232168709_06366a6c8f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m4dfRB)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51232462885_2586f50cbf_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m4eLiB)

[Ari]

And still in an experimental mood, I mixed up some Pyrocat HD and processed film in my Jobo
1:1:100 at 75F and TF-5 fixer. Light leak is my fault, I'm pretty rusty using the bulk film loader.

Film EI was somewhere between 25 and 12 ASA, Hoya IR72 filter
It's grainier, contrastier, which I appreciate. Blacks are almost completely blocked.
I may have to play with this some more.

Any suggestions on using Pyrocat HD with IR400 are welcome!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51237349054_c17dafc4ca_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m4ENMU)

[Andrew O'Neill]

I found that an EI of 3 with the R72, gives me decent shadows. Pyrocat-HD, Xtol-R.

[Ari]

Thanks, Andrew. I forget to pay closer attention to that.
I set the camera ASA to 320, and let it do its job of TTL metering with the filter attached.
That must put me somewhere around 30ASA, which is too high to get shadow detail.
Will shoot and process again.

Is Pyrocat usually this grainy? I can't do stand development, so I guess it'll be grainy for me.

[paulbarden]

Exposing this film at 20 ASA or higher, you're not getting the best this film has to offer. In my experience, only negatives exposed at 3 to 6 ASA are worth using.

[Ari]

Agreed, Paul. I'll be more mindful of ASA setting on camera.

[popdoc]

Experimented with Sandy King’s compensated approach of two-part development using Pyrocat HD with some 120 Konika IR. Worked very well containing all the information/constraining all the information, however, was a very steep contrast curve compared to Stephen Sherman’s beautiful UMA.

Here’s a proof sheet of some Konika IR from a trip to West Virginia using the same processing technique. As the film was 14 years old, you’ll see the bracketing that I had to use even though my speed testing placed it ASA 8 using an R 72 filter. Even in what appears to be significantly over exposed, all the information is there, and can be “printed through“.
This is a “flat”/raw scan to show the good, bad and the ugly for illustration purposes.
216585


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Corran]

My first roll with IR400, I developed it in Pyrocat. Just made a guess that it would be close to the same time for TMX and I think it came out alright. However, conditions weren't great for any kind of pronounced sky effect.

Century Graphic 2x3, Schneider 38mm f/5.6 XL w/ R72 filter, Rollei IR400 exposed for 15 minutes, dev'd in Pyrocat 1:1:100 for 11 minutes @ 75F

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9m1f14QqMFo/YNEZEdFy4yI/AAAAAAAANvA/Bawaq44gr0AwIYzYuBx2E72Z6cUZTZ5awCLcBGAsYHQ/s1000/keys2021-7030s.jpg

In contrast, up here in GA the clouds have been great when I've been driving around to/from work and such, but never when I actually have time to photograph...

And now it's raining again.

[Ari]

It's a very pretty shot, nonetheless, Bryan. The details are superb. I can distinguish individual piers almost to the very end.
I've been developing the IR400 in Pyro as well, but using a 3:6:200 dilution at 75F in a rotary tank.

[Corran]

Thanks Ari. Interesting dilution! I don't do rotary for roll films but perhaps I will remember that for future 4x5 images. What's your time for that?

[Ari]

My times vary, Bryan. I've had slightly different results, though equally satisfying, at 8 minutes and 9 minutes using that dilution.
IIRC, 8 minutes worked well with the IR72 filter while 9 minutes was better for the #29 Red filter.
The dilution gives a harder look, lots more contrast and, I think, maximizes the IR effect.
Your beautiful shot is notable for its softness and detail. The 3:6:200 dilution won't give much of either :)
But overall, I do like the look of Pyro with all of the Rollei films.

[Corran]

Gotcha! I'm interested to shoot another roll of this in better conditions, with the big puffy storm clouds I was hoping for in Florida.

Another thing of note - I bracketed a couple shots of this scene and like some other IR film I've used with an R72 filter, it doesn't seem to matter if I overexpose it by a lot. A shot at 4 minutes looks about identical in density to this 15 minute shot. I metered at an EI of 6 for the 4 minute shot.

[Ari]

Wow, those are some long exposures!
Most of my Rollei IR400 shots are done on a 35mm rangefinder, exposures between 1/3s and 1/25s, and mostly handheld.
I can get shorter shutter speeds with the red 29 filter, of course, which makes it much easier to shoot on-the-fly, and the IR effect looks almost the same on this emulsion.

[Corran]

Yeah, cloudy and f/22 got me there pretty quick. No idea about reciprocity on this emulsion either.

I have a 100' roll of this to use in 35mm. Wanted to shoot it in my Widelux but I've gotta get the 1/15 exposures working better first (with red filter only, don't have an R72 and have no idea what to do on that front).

Or I could chuck it in my Pentax 67 with 35mm adapters...

[Ari]

If you use the Reciprocity app, it has data on Rollei IR400.
Using a rangefinder camera is great. Mine has AE and AF, so I set the ASA to 200, and shoot with the IR72 filter attached.

[grat]

From https://www.rolleianalog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/INFRARED_Datenblatt_EN_R210401.pdf

217048

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I love IR film. I also use a a 720, but might try something farther to the right.

[carlo.dainese]

https://carlodainese.files.wordpress.com/2017/04/dsc1715.jpg?w=1520

Ilford Classic FB Glossy 24×30, Rollei infrared 400 35mm, Nikon Fe, IR72 filter, 6 iso

In 35mm format the film has the normal thickness as any others. In 4x5" (as many of us has already noted) is very thin (too much for my taste).

here in MF (120). Quite "normal" in thickness

https://carlodainese.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/raw0008-2-2.jpg?w=1520

Mamiya rz67 pro2, Rollei infrared 400 (format 120), ID11 1+1, IR72 filter, 6 iso