STILL LIFE - Lens Thoughts & Recommendations

[Salmo22]

I'm interested in pursuing still life work with my 4x5. My living room has a large north-facing window that provides wonderful ambient light. To that end, I'd like to work with a lens suited for this type of work. I have a G-Claron 150/9 and a G-Claron 210/9. Since I've read that these lenses were originally designed for graphic arts work, and do well at 1:1, I'm thinking they might prove useful. I also have a several Nikkor "W" and "M" lenses that could be pressed into service if appropriate.

If I have as much fun as I anticipate, I'm open to acquiring a "specialty" lens for this type of work. All comments, suggestions, and/or recommendations are appreciated.

[Jim Noel]

It would be difficult to surpass the lenses you already own. Use the money on film.

[William Whitaker]

It would be difficult to surpass the lenses you already own. Use the money on film.

+1

[Conrad . Marvin]

What they said +1

[maltfalc]

if f/9 turns out to be darker than you want to deal with (it'll be f/18 at 1:1), the old chrome schneider enlarger lenses are really nice, if you can use barrel lenses or find a shutter to adapt the cells to.

[robphoto]

Set up your still life and try one of your lenses. There's no particular "still life" focal length; you can try longer and shorter focal lengths and see how the perspective feels to you.

[LabRat]

You could try an old Tessar or other faster large barrel lens for limited DOF or OOF effects...

A lens with a large diameter front glass...

Steve K

[Mark Sawyer]

You might also consider your enlarger lens, as you already own it.

Weston used a 210mm Tessar on his 8x10 for his peppers, shells, and other close-up still-lifes. The old ones similar to his often sell in the $50-or-less range.

[Drew Bedo]

I have had great still-life results with my 210mm Caltar II N and a 150mm Fujinon. Both are wide open at f/5.6.

Once, a long time ago now, I put a 75mm Oscillo Paragon at 1:1 on an 8x10. These lenses open up to f/1.9. The extension was pretty long and the correction required 8 "pops" on two Vivitar 283 strobes set up quite close to the subject.

Use what you have to get the shots you can.