B/W film & B/W chems - What's in your darkroom?

[jdurr]

I KNOW: Been asked a million times, but I would like to see the results.
What is YOUR go to black & white film and darkroom chems for LF these days.

I have mine ..... what say you?

[jmdavis]

Fuji Mammography film (18x24) and Pyrocat HD

[Eric Woodbury]

HP5, FP4, Ilford Ortho, Tech Pan from days of old -- from 35mm to 8x10. Developers are DS-14 for paper, Wimberley's HD2H+ variant for film, XTOL.

[Winger]

FP4 and HP5 for film and DD-X for developer. There are a few other film types around, but those are the go-to ones.

[Peter De Smidt]

DS-10 Developer.
Glacial acetic acid.
Mini-lab rapid fix with no hardener.

[Maris Rusis]

film: Fomapan 100, 200, 400
paper: Ilford Classic VC FB
developers: Xtol replenished, Dektol
stop bath: Fotospeed SB50 Odorless - costs more but no exhaust fan required
fixer: Fotospeed FX30 Odorless - costs more but no exhaust fan required
wash aid: Kodak Hypoclear

[Tin Can]

Thanks and I will try it your way!


film: Fomapan 100, 200, 400
paper: Ilford Classic VC FB
developers: Xtol replenished, Dektol
stop bath: Fotospeed SB50 Odorless - costs more but no exhaust fan required
fixer: Fotospeed FX30 Odorless - costs more but no exhaust fan required
wash aid: Kodak Hypoclear

[esearing]

film: FP4, Delta 100, Bergger 400, HP5
paper: Ilford Classic MGFB and warmtone, Ilford ART, Bergger VC
developers: Pyrocat M, Obsidian Aqua, PF Ansco 130, Diafine, HC-110, Ethol LPD
stop bath: Kodak indicator stop
fixer:TF5 and Ilford rapid fix
Plus chemicals to make bleaches, toners, wash aid, tray cleaners, etc.

[jdurr]

Thank you all. Lots of options. FYI I have been using all Ilford. It is time to venture out, don't you think?

[jdurr]

Thanks ..... Love your site! I went to Darlington School in Rome way back when ....

[ic-racer]

HP5
Dektol
Ammonia Thiosulfate
Acetic Acid
T-max Developer
Wash Aid
Photo Flo
A&B "Kodalith" type developer
A&B Reducer

Ilford Multigraded FB

409 and liquid soap for cleanup

[Doremus Scudder]

Films: 320TX and TMY these days
Film Dev: PMK pyro. Used to use lots of others, but this is my standard now.
Kodak Indicator Stop
Ilford Rapid Fixer or Hypam without hardener

Printing Papers (all fiber-base): Adox MCC-110 when available. Slavich Unibrom 160 (I still have some left - love this stuff!), Ilford MG Classic, Fomabrom 111 graded and VC, but not so much; don't like the yellower base (think it's the emulsion color). Missing Seagull G still...

Print Dev: ID-62 or D-72 these days. I tend to like the ID-62 better. Bromophen when I need packaged. Someday I'll get around to Ansco 130, but I've got so many raw chemicals that I need to use up.
I tweak developer with sod. carbonate and BTA when needed.

Kodak Indicator Stop
Ilford Rapid Fixer or Hypam without hardener
Homemade wash aid from sod. sulfite and bisulfite

Potassium ferricyanide and bromide for rehalogenating bleach for prints, SLIMTs and negative bleach-redevelop.

Best,

Doremus

[Serge S]

FP4 and HP5 and DD-X

[Tobias Key]

HP5, Adox CHS 100II and FP4, I was a long time Xtol user but I have switched to DDX and FX39II this year after getting two packs of bad Xtol. That cost me a lot in terms of wasted time and film so I won't be going back.

[Dugan]

HP5+ , TX320, and Efke PL100 in Rodinal.

[Peter Lewin]

HP5+ (120 & 4x5), Pyrocat-HD, TF-4 fixer
Ilford Classic FB & RC (RC for contact sheets and 8x10 work prints only, FB for 11x14 prints), Ilford Multigrade Print Developer, Ilfostop, TF-4

[John Kasaian]

Currently:
HP-5+(thanks, Ralph Barker), FP-4+, Ilford Ortho Plus
Clayton F-76, Ansco 130(thanks, John Nanian)
Fomabrom N111

[Mark Sampson]

No need to "venture out" unless there's something you don't like about your pictures. Knowing how your materials will respond can give you great confidence in your work. Better to chase new and different images than to wander through the wilds of tech. You can make the mot unlikely combinations of materials work, if experimenting is what interests you. But you'll find that most photographer who produce interesting work keep things simple. (Ansel Adams was a true virtuoso of the medium- but he worked harder and longer than most anyone else to get to his mastery.)
If you do want to experiment, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that! Try changing one and only one thing at a time. That way you'll know what that one change does, and can build upon it if you like.
From personal experience, my early technique was widely scattered (to say the least). I couldn't be bothered with consistency, and it showed. I didn't know where I was going, and I wasn't making good time either. My own pictures got better once I stayed with one film and one developer- and printing those negs led me to choose only two or three types of paper. YRMV of course, and good luck!

[Vaughn]

Varies, but the basic film/developer right now, FP4+ in PyrocatHD 2:2:100, 74F (120 and 4x5 to 11x14), with Ilford PQ Universal Developer on hand.
Water stop, Alk fixer, no HCA, water, Photo-flo

Printing alt processes (carbon and Pt/pd) with the misc chemicals needed for that (including HCA).

[neil poulsen]

HP5 120, 4x5, 8x10 in D76. I like the results that I get with D76, and I like a higher speed black and white. As for Ilford (vs. Kodak), I want them to live long and prosper.

[jimskelton]

I started a year ago with FP4+ and HP5+ and ID-11 and Ilford rapidfix for film, and Ilford MGIV/dektol for paper.
Over the year I've settled on Arista ultra 100/400 for film (35mm), and Arista 76 developer, and Kentmere paper with dektol.

[Drew Wiley]

TMY400 and TMX100 all formats from 35mm to 8x10. FP4 in LF sheets only. Acros in 120 only, cause that's all that's left. All PMK dev except TMX. Papers: MGWT, MGCT.

[Greg Y]

Film: TMY2, TMY, FP4+
Developers: Pyrocat HD, PF Ansco 130, Amidol
Stop: Acetic Acid
Fixer: TF5 & Ilford Rapid fix & sodium thiosulfate

[roscoetuff-Skip Mersereau]

Film: FP4 and HP5 (others in the fridge to try: Bergger Panchro, Shanghai, and Rollei InfraRed)
Developer: D23 (boxed in reserve: ID11 and Perceptol)
Stop: Water
Fixer: TF5

[Wayne]

HP5+, FP4+, Rodinal, HC-110, Ilford Rapid Fix, a lifetime supply of hypo and a box of white powders

[tundra]

Film: Agfapan APX 100, Kodak Tri-X, Ilford FP4+ currently. On deck: Fomapan 100, 200. Frozen and waiting: More APX 100, FP4+, Tri-X, Plus-X, TMX, Acros, Arista,Edu 100, Efke 100. Not frozen and waiting: Ilford Ortho

Developers (in order preferred): Pyrocat-HD, PMK, HC-110, D-76, DK-50. On deck: D-23 and SLIMT processing with prior developers

I "stop" in running water bath

Fixer is currently PF TF4, but I may switch to Hypam since I don't see much advantage to the TF-4 and it is costly. I just have to make sure Hypam will work well with staining developers.

No hypo clear. Just 25min in a Gravity Works film washer.

Final rinse in PhotoFlo 200 with 30ml 91% Isolpropyl alcohol/liter of water for spot free drying.

Papers: Anything decent I can get my hands on other than MGFB Classic which I don't much like but will use if that's all that's around. This includes Ultrafine Silver Eagle FB, Arista.Edu VCFB, Fomabrom 111 Variant III VC FB

Developer: Dektol 1:2

Stop: 6oz 28% Acetic Acid/gal water

Fix: Ilford Hypam

Hypo Clearing: PermaWash 3oz/gal water

Toning: Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner 1:20-1:40 depending on paper

[John Layton]

Currently Using:

Sheet Films: 85% FP-4, 10% TMY, 5% TMX/Delta-100 120: Currently 100% TMY No longer using 35mm (but I've held on to one Leica M-6...just in case!)
Film Developers: Pyrocat-HD in glycol, PMK, HC-110
Film Stop: 3 Water Baths
Film Fix: TF-4

Papers: Ilford Classic FB Glossy, Ilford WT Glossy
Paper Developers: Moersch Eco 4812, Moersch SE-6
Paper Stop: Sprint Stop Bath
Print Fix: Sprint Fixer
Wash Aid: Heico Perma-Wash

Other Chems: Potassium Ferricyanide, Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner, Benzotriazole.

Plus a shelf full of dry chemicals from when I used to mix everything from scratch. Am sometimes tempted to take this up again, but am generally happy with what I've mentioned above - so long as its reliable!

[Jeffrey Dionesotes]

Mostly FP4 Plus; PMK & Eco Pro; TF-4; Ansco 120 & 130AA w/ Benzotriazole; mostly Ilford FB (some Lodima); KRST.

[Fin77]

HP5, Adox CHS 100II and FP4, I was a long time Xtol user but I have switched to DDX and FX39II this year after getting two packs of bad Xtol. That cost me a lot in terms of wasted time and film so I won't be going back.

HP5+, Delta 100 and TMAX all in 4x5, TMAX 100 and 400 in 120. Same shift with developers. From long time use of XTOL to DDX and FX-39 II and I am more than happy. Will not look back to XTOL, especially when I am still waiting the replacement bags. Actually I am very happy with FX-39 II (Delta 100). Hope I would try it earlier and not try to blame myself when result with XTOL was bad. Most likely replace TMAX films when my stock run empty.
Stop bath from Ilford and fixer from Tetenal, but shifting towards Adox. Hypo and photoflo from Kodak but shifting here to Adox as well.

[robphoto]

I use TMAX 400 4x5, process it in standard Sprint System chemistry. Print on Ilford Multigrade FB, also in Sprint Chemistry. The guy who started Sprint was one of my photo teachers in school, I just got into the habit of it. I looked up some work from the early 90's, and it was also on the first version of TMAX 400, so I think I've used it since it became available. For commercial work, seemed sharper and finer grained than Tri-X.

An advantage of Sprint chemicals is that they don't use Metol, so you don't develop sensitivity to that.

[Michael R]

Tundra, Neither Ilford Rapid Fix or Hypam (essentially the same and same operating pH) should have any adverse effects with respect to pyro or catechol staining developers.


Film: Agfapan APX 100, Kodak Tri-X, Ilford FP4+ currently. On deck: Fomapan 100, 200. Frozen and waiting: More APX 100, FP4+, Tri-X, Plus-X, TMX, Acros, Arista,Edu 100, Efke 100. Not frozen and waiting: Ilford Ortho

Developers (in order preferred): Pyrocat-HD, PMK, HC-110, D-76, DK-50. On deck: D-23 and SLIMT processing with prior developers

I "stop" in running water bath

Fixer is currently PF TF4, but I may switch to Hypam since I don't see much advantage to the TF-4 and it is costly. I just have to make sure Hypam will work well with staining developers.

No hypo clear. Just 25min in a Gravity Works film washer.

Final rinse in PhotoFlo 200 with 30ml 91% Isolpropyl alcohol/liter of water for spot free drying.

Papers: Anything decent I can get my hands on other than MGFB Classic which I don't much like but will use if that's all that's around. This includes Ultrafine Silver Eagle FB, Arista.Edu VCFB, Fomabrom 111 Variant III VC FB

Developer: Dektol 1:2

Stop: 6oz 28% Acetic Acid/gal water

Fix: Ilford Hypam

Hypo Clearing: PermaWash 3oz/gal water

Toning: Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner 1:20-1:40 depending on paper

[Jim Noel]

Films: Currently on the "Ready" shelves FP4+, HP5+, Carestream T-Cat, Carestream EB-RA,Ektapan, Efke 25, Super XX, Arista EDU, Efke 100, Ilford Ortho 25, Adox 25 Ortho, Fuji HR-N and others in the freezer.
Developers, toners and fixers: Dozens of chemicals to mix any formula I desire.
Surfactant: LFN - Absolutely NO PHOTO-FLO ALLOWED

[Andrew O'Neill]

Pyrocat-HD, Xtol-R, D-23, DK-50, caffenol...

[Andrew O'Neill]

HP5, FP4, Adox, Shanghai, 4x5 HIE, Efke IR, Rollei IR...

[Greg]

FP-4+, HP-5+, Delta 3200, Bergger
Rodinal, PYROCAT-HD in Glyco, Diafine, Tetenal Ultrafin, Arista Lith, Moersch ECO 4812, HC-110, Kodak Stop Bath, TF-5 Fixer, Permawash, Rapid Selenium toner, Photo-Flo, Potassium Ferricyanide, Benzotriazole, Sodium Thiosulfate, Potassium Bromide, Kodalith A+B
Fomatone, Multigrade IV, ARISTA EDU, VARYCON
Portriga Rapid, ZONE VI, lite, Galerie, P-MAX ART
Salt, Ziatype, and Platinum/Palladium
Stonehenge, Lana Aquarelle, Revere Platinum, Bergger COT 320 papers

[Joe O'Hara]

TMax 400, D-23, WD2H (occasionally), TF-3, citric acid for stop. D-72, benzotriazole, potassium ferricyanide, Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner.

[Ulophot]

HP5, D-23, Ilford Rapid Fix, SLIMT (potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide), Photoflo
Ilford WTF in Gloss and Semi-matte, EcoPro developer, citric acid, Photogs' Formulary TF-5
Selenium toner
Kodak Tray cleaner
Photofinish cleaner

[tundra]

HP5, D-23, Ilford Rapid Fix, SLIMT (potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide), Photoflo


Can you talk a little bit about your experience with SLIMT and how it is separate from- or complements a compensating developer like D-23?

[tundra]

Absolutely NO PHOTO-FLO ALLOWED

Why? I've never had a moment's problem with PF 200.

[Joe O'Hara]

Oh yes-- and Photo Flo. I use a disposable 2 cc pipette to drip into the final rise tray.

[Ulophot]

Can you talk a little bit about your experience with SLIMT and how it is separate from- or complements a compensating developer like D-23?

Please see my post in the recent D-23 thread, or send a PM with particular questions.

[Ulophot]

Oh yes-- and Photo Flo. I use a disposable 2 cc pipette to drip into the final rise tray.

I do the same; free from local pharmacy. I calculated the amounts for 16 and 8 oz and wrote then on the bottle. When I need only 4 oz (I have a 4x5 tray, used only for this when I have just a few sheets or one), it's easy enough to do with the same pipette. The pipette also eliminates the inevitable drops of Photoflo finding their way down the outside of the bottle each time.