How to remove shutter from Linhof recessed lens board?

[Jamie123]

For the past week I've been trying to remove a Compur 0 shutter from a Linhof recessed lens board it's attached to and for the life of me I can't get the ring open. I'm using a spanner wrench but all it does is slip and shave off some of the metal of the ring. Is there anything else I can try? I know there have been threads about this before but none of the solutions I've read so far helped.

[Bob Salomon]

A really good wrench. The one LInhof uses is a solid piece of turned aluminum with knurling at the grip end a precisely fitted rectangular pins to fit exactly into the holes in the ring. You can really tighten that ring with this wrench. Unfortunately it’s made for their teChnicians in their model shop.

[Jim Noel]

Have you tried making a wrench unique to this ring?
Take a small piece of wood about 2.5-3" long, preferably hardwood, and put 2 small finishing nails through it at the appropriate distance and just far enough to clear the rear element, if it is still in there.
This has worked for me more than once.

[Jamie123]

I'm using one of these adjustable spanner wrenches made of metal. I don't think wood and nails would do the job. It's really unfortunate and completely unnecessary that they would tighten it to this point. There's a special place in hell for people who tighten things this much. Right now I'm at a point where I'm seriously contemplating taking a Dremel to the whole thing. I'll just have to find out first if I can get a replacement ring anywhere.

[Bob Salomon]

I'm using one of these adjustable spanner wrenches made of metal. I don't think wood and nails would do the job. It's really unfortunate and completely unnecessary that they would tighten it to this point. There's a special place in hell for people who tighten things this much. Right now I'm at a point where I'm seriously contemplating taking a Dremel to the whole thing. I'll just have to find out first if I can get a replacement ring anywhere.
Replacement rings are extremely common. Any service center as well as most LF photographers should have 0 rings.

[Jamie123]

Ok, I will look into that. Thanks for your help!

[Jim Noel]

I'm using one of these adjustable spanner wrenches made of metal. I don't think wood and nails would do the job. It's really unfortunate and completely unnecessary that they would tighten it to this point. There's a special place in hell for people who tighten things this much. Right now I'm at a point where I'm seriously contemplating taking a Dremel to the whole thing. I'll just have to find out first if I can get a replacement ring anywhere.

YOU might be pleasantly surprised.

[Jamie123]

YOU might be pleasantly surprised.

I misunderstood your idea at first but yes, I see what you mean. It could work. But I don't have the necessary wood, nails or tools and getting this kind of stuff is a bit tricky at the moment with the lockdown measures where I live. At the moment I'm trying to get in touch with a local camera repair guy to see if he can help.

[Bernice Loui]

Likely culprit is corrosion or galling of the threaded parts involved. Aluminum is a poor material for threads as it is much like puddly with a tendency to be attracted to itself. Anodizing can make this worst as it leaded a hard yet abrasive surface that can produce a LOT of friction between the threaded parts effectively locking them together over time.

Suggest carefully and selectively applying penetrating oil (Not WD-40) to the seam of the threaded joint. Just a small amount is needed. Then let the penetrating oil work on the joint for a few days, re-applihg the penetrating oil once it appears dry. This will help break up the galling and stuck headed going to help these threaded pats separate.

Spanner wrench must have an absolute tight/proper fit or it will slip causing damage to the lock nut making removal more difficult to not possible at all.


Bernice