Tripod Head For 8x10? Arca Cube, Ries J250, Luland LD115, Acratech GXP

[jamgolf]

Hello

I am purchasing an 8x10 camera which weighs ~10 lbs. I am looking for a tripod head that will be able to provide solid support and the ability to make adjustments. I am considering these heads: Arca Swiss Cube, Ries J250, Luland LD115, Acratech GXP Ball Head (sold by Reis)
Any experiences with these tripod heads?

Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts and input.

Cheers!

[Conrad . Marvin]

I use a Ries J250 on my 5x7 (7pounds) . Solid as a rock. I don’t care for ball heads on a big camera.

[jamgolf]

Thanks for your input. Since J250 does not have geared movements, do you feel it's easy to make small leveling adjustments with J250?

That's one of the features that attracts me to the Cube. I've used an Arca Swiss L60 (aka mini cube) for medium format technical camera for years and really like the geared movements. But with 8x10 the stability is far more important. Also, the cube is $$$.

[Alan9940]

Like Conrad, I don't care for ball heads for large, heavy cameras. I get along fine with a Gitzo G-1570M for my 8x10 Deardorff, but it's not geared.

[jamgolf]

Actually ball head is not my preference either. Just noticed Acratech GXP on Ries's website, so thought I'd ask if someone uses it with an 8x10.

I will rule out Acratech GXP now.
Trying to decide between Cube, Luland and Ries.

[Luis-F-S]

Luland is a Chinese copy. I use a Ries A250 head on my 8x10's & 11 x 14. Also use a J250 head on a J-100-2 tripods for my V8s. Also use a Majestic head on a Gitzo G504 tripod for 11x14. Can put an original Sinar head on the G504 when using the Sinars. L

[Kiwi7475]

I have the Luland and it’s great. Yes it’s a Ries clone. So is my Philips-clone 8x10 camera.

[Drew Wiley]

I use a mid-weight Ries A-series tripod for my authentic Phillips 8x10, but bolted directly to the platform top using the standard Ries 3/8-16 turnbolt. In other words, no head at all. But if I did want a head, I'd probably opt for Ries own version.

[jamgolf]

I have a leveling base for my tripod and have thought about not using a tripod head. But then obviously I would be limited in how much of an angle up/down I would have. Might be OK most of the time except certain subjects requiring a downward angle. But its a good thought. Save weight and money.

[biedron]

I use an Arca Swiss Cube with my 8x10 (also AS, so around 10 lbs.). The geared movements are sweet, but come at a price as you note - though if you are used to them on smaller cameras, it might be hard to give them up. I also have a geared AS D4 that I use with my 4x5. I initially used the 8x10 on the D4, and it worked OK, but a bit marginal for the larger camera - the Cube is much sturdier for 8x10.

Definitely would not want a ball head with an 8x0.

Bob

[Kiwi7475]

It’s really hard to give a good answer here without knowing more, so OP is going to just get a bunch of opinions based on the personal experience of each of us for what’s likely a wide range of applications.

First the price range of the options you’re looking at is pretty wide, from like $300 to $1400. They’re not fair comparisons. How important is to save $1,000 vs the goal of supporting your camera?

How important is the weight? How important is the range of mobility? Is this for studio or field? How is it going to be used?

[Two23]

I have a Kodak 2d 8x10. I'm using a Reis J250 head and love it. Extremely solid and easy to level up. It's designed to have adjustable friction that makes it simple to adjust even with my heavy brass Petzval lenses. I'm not aware of any head out there that is better for 8x10 than this one.

Kent in SD

[nbagno]

The Luland stuff is really well made. I have both the Sinar clone and the TH150R that handles my heavy Toyo 8x10. If you decide to go that route you shouldn’t be disappointed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Luis-F-S]

The Luland stuff is really well made. I have both the Sinar clone and the TH150R that handles my heavy Toyo 8x10. If you decide to go that route you shouldn’t be disappointed.


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So why not get the real stuff instead of a Chinese copy?

[Mark Sawyer]

The big question is "how much off-level do you use the camera?"

Unless you use it at more than 20-30 degrees, you can just skip the head altogether. Use the adjustable leg lengths and angles instead. If weight is important enough that you sprang for an ultralight 8x10 camera, you can save even more weight without the tripod head.

Look through your portfolio and see how often you really use the extreme tilt of a tripod.

[Peter De Smidt]

I prefer a Gitzo low profile series V pan/tilt head with 8x10 cameras.

[Renato Tonelli]

I have been using an Arca-Swiss geared head for my 4x5/5x7 and a Manfrotto geared head for my 8x10; both heads are capable for all three formats but they are set up that way as ready-to-go kits. The price difference is significant.

The Arca-Swiss has finer geared action and quick panning for fast repositioning. It’s really well thought out and well made. I would not want to go back to 3-way heads - too much fiddling: you think you’re locked down and then it slips a tiny bit, requiring adjustments. It’s rally not that big of a deal but a good geared is really a pleasure to work with. I tried monoball heads but I did not like them for the large format cameras.

[jamgolf]

Based on Drew’s comment about going without a tripod head and Mark’s question "how much off-level do you use the camera?" I actually do not have too many photographs that were captured off level. I would like to do that but it’s not typically what I do. So, I am going to try using my camera directly on the tripod with its leveling base. I believe that will work 90% of the time. For the occasions when a greater angle is needed, I have ordered a Luland head with a long fast plate that will attach to the camera base with three. 3/8” screws for a solid connection.

[urnem57]

+1 for The Acratech Ballhead. They say it will support 25 lbs. I put a Speed Graphic with an Aero Ektar (15lbs) on mine and it’s solid as a rock. The head is lightweight, made in Pomona, Ca., sturdy, will not collect dirt/debris, is small, and compact. I scoffed at the price, but I got so tired of decades of wrestling with crappily-casted/machined Manfrotto that I took the plunge. I’m glad I did and will hopefully never need to buy another head again. If you really want to go hog wild The Mitchell Head used to hold Panavision Film Cameras are quite a work of art. You can probably buy a car for what those cost, though.

[Greg]

I think most of us have gone through a succession of different tripod heads till finding one that we really liked... can sometimes be an expensive ritual. My first head for my 8x10 was a wooden tilt only B&J head. Last and final heads are a Luland and a Ries. Arca Cube was ideal for an architectural photography project that I was involved in but didn't really care for it for my personal photography. Bought the Cube used and sold it a few years later for what I initially paid for it. Acratech I have no experience with. To me it boils down a lot to the availability of replacement parts. I am very easy on my equipment but accidents do happen. Once my Ries tripod with a Ries head tipped over onto a rock, fortunately before I mounted my camera on it. Took only one phone call to get a replacement part from Ries arriving a few days later. The Luland has 360 degrees markings on it which I never use. As for the Ries... I called them up and asked them for their advice on which head to get for my 8x10 and my 11x14. After a 10 minute phone call I bought the model that they recommended and have been 100% satisfied with it.

[Drew Wiley]

For those relatively rare almost straight-down shots going headless, a simple strong L-bracket tapped 3/8-16 on both sides does the job at a fraction of the weight and expense of any suitable tripod head. I never bother packing one for the 8x10 and Ries combination. I could hypothetically order a Feisol half-sphere device for the big Feisol CF that I use as my lighter wt 8x10 support; and it would let me point quite steeply if needed.

For MF work with my much lighter Gitzo CF tripod, when I want to go especially light or portable (long distance backpacking or airline carry-on), I have a couple of these angle brackets, an extremely light but solid one made of aircraft aluminum for my 6x9 RF, and a slightly heavier stainless one for my P67. Both are just a few ounces. I do use a Gitzo pan-tilt head for routine MF work. But for the big 300 EDIF P67 lens, it's bolted right down to the platform top of one of same big tripods I use for 8x10. All of my tripods are suitable for my 4X5's, either monorail Sinar or Ebony folder; but I go headless in that case too.

[jamgolf]

Drew, I like your L-bracket idea. Is there a particular one you use/prefer?

[Ari]

I'm in the minority, but I like using a ball head with 8x10, and anything smaller.
FLM CB-48FTR or CB-58FTR can handle the weight distribution very well, and both have a tilt lock function which makes levelling the camera a breeze.

When I don't need a ball head, I use a QR clamp mounted to a half-ball, which usually gives me all the range of motion I need, and keeps the centre of gravity low.

[jamgolf]

So why not get the real stuff instead of a Chinese copy?

The reason I ordered Luland is because they have tripod head models with fast plates. I ordered a longer 150mm fast plate which will have three 3/8" bolts/screws that will attach to the camera. This should provide a very solid and secure 3-point connection between the camera and the head. I feel for use cases that require a vertically downward or upward tilt, an extra secure connection is more important than it is for a relatively level shot. Ries do not offer models with fast plates so there is only one point of connection.

212074

212075

In any case I think I am going to utilize the half-ball/levelling-base for most of my use cases to reduce weight and not use a tripod-head most of the time. 20-30 degrees of adjustment should be fine most of the time.
212078

I think this is what ^ Ari is suggesting.

[Peter De Smidt]

Not using a tripod head works well most of the time, right up until it doesn't. If you know that you'll always be on a flat surface shooting horizontally, then you should be fine. But if you're not, then you risk not getting a shot. For me, that's a much bigger cost than the added weight and cost of the head.

[neil poulsen]

For what camera?

[jamgolf]

For what camera?

I did not mention the camera on purpose, so as to not influence the conversation, but now that I have made my mind the camera I am getting is a SpenopeiKa Leonardo.

[jamgolf]

Not using a tripod head works well most of the time, right up until it doesn't ... that's a much bigger cost than the added weight and cost of the head.

That's a very fair point.

[Ari]

In any case I think I am going to utilize the half-ball/levelling-base for most of my use cases to reduce weight and not use a tripod-head most of the time. 20-30 degrees of adjustment should be fine most of the time.
212078

I think this is what ^ Ari is suggesting.

That's right. I attach a quick-release clamp directly to the half ball. For what I shoot (buildings and portraits), this set-up is fine about 90% of the time.
The ball head comes out when I need to shoot up or down at more than a 15 degree tilt.