C-41 Question

[Robert Kalman]

Just started processing color negatives using C-41. I was under the impression that after dunking the film into the Stabilizer for a minute the entire process was basically done, and all that was needed was to hang the film to dry.

I did this, but my dried film was full of water spots.

Should I have finished off the process with a dunk into Photo-Flo?

Thanks!

[tgtaylor]

Stabilizer is the wetting agent, among other things, for C-41.

[Duolab123]

Not sure what C-41 process you are using. Tetenal, Kodak??

With Kodak processes, after fixing you need to wash film for 2 minutes, then treat with Flexicolor Final rinse, prepared with demineralized water, then hang to dry.
Stabilizer and final rinses used in minilabs are 3 bath washless systems C41RA Minilabs run Developer, bleach 2 fixer tanks and 3 final rinse tanks, then dry.

Use a wash after fixing and purified water with Flexicolor Final rinse, hang to dry. The Final rinse is a wetting agent with a biocide to preserve the gelatin. B&W has silver to keep the fungi away.

[cuypers1807]

Did you mix your stabilizer with tap water or distilled? I got spots with tap so I switched over to distilled and it made a difference.

[Robert Kalman]

Stabilizer is the wetting agent, among other things, for C-41.

Yes, that was my understanding, until I got the wate rspots. Thanks for affirming.

[Robert Kalman]

Not sure what C-41 process you are using. Tetenal, Kodak??

With Kodak processes, after fixing you need to wash film for 2 minutes, then treat with Flexicolor Final rinse, prepared with demineralized water, then hang to dry.
Stabilizer and final rinses used in minilabs are 3 bath washless systems C41RA Minilabs run Developer, bleach 2 fixer tanks and 3 final rinse tanks, then dry.

Use a wash after fixing and purified water with Flexicolor Final rinse, hang to dry. The Final rinse is a wetting agent with a biocide to preserve the gelatin. B&W has silver to keep the fungi away.

Used Unicolor chemistry.

[Robert Kalman]

Did you mix your stabilizer with tap water or distilled? I got spots with tap so I switched over to distilled and it made a difference.

Thanks for the tip. I guess I'll have to wait to do that for the next time I prepare the chemistry.

[Duolab123]

My tap water is loaded with minerals. I installed a reverse osmosis system. Makes, almost, as pure water as distilled. I use the RO water, for final rinse, powdered developer etc. Purified water at Walmart works great, cheap.

[Duolab123]

I've been using Kodak Flexicolor for a while. I remember some E6 kits had crystal dry chemical for the final rinse. I found a few tiny white crystals on the dried film. Brushed them off with a camel hair brush, no problem.

[Robert Kalman]

My tap water is loaded with minerals. I installed a reverse osmosis system. Makes, almost, as pure water as distilled. I use the RO water, for final rinse, powdered developer etc. Purified water at Walmart works great, cheap.

While I don't think I'll be installing a water system, I will start using distilled water to prepare the chemistry. Thanks!

[m00dawg]

I've since moved to Flexicolor chemicals but have used the Unicolor. They use hexanine as a stabilizer but it actually doesn't have any rinsing properties - it's mostly a biocide and a dye-stabilizer (required for older C-41 films but supposedly no longer needed for new films) as I understand it. Compared to Kodak Stabilizer I'm not sure how well it stabilizes but it's moot unless you're using old expired film. So to minimize spots, I would recommend doing a final wash (or two) with distilled water. Likewise mix all your chemicals with distilled water (including the rinse). This should help considerably.

Of note, Kodak offers a C-41 Final Rinse which is mostly a wetting agent (similar to Photo-Flo but not the same stuff). It has some biocidal properties, but doesn't have a stabilizer since modern films no longer need this (supposedly).

I find I get better, cleaner, negatives with the Final Rinse than I ever did with Unicolor's Stabilizer but the distilled water should go a long long way there (I wasn't previously doing that when I was using the Unicolor kit). You could perhaps buy some Kodak Final Rinse. It's inexpensive from Unique Photo if you're in the states. I wouldn't use Photo-Flo - it will probably work but I think it lacks some of the biocidal properties (don't quote me on that though).

[Robert Kalman]

I've since moved to Flexicolor chemicals but have used the Unicolor. They use hexanine as a stabilizer but it actually doesn't have any rinsing properties - it's mostly a biocide and a dye-stabilizer (required for older C-41 films but supposedly no longer needed for new films) as I understand it. Compared to Kodak Stabilizer I'm not sure how well it stabilizes but it's moot unless you're using old expired film. So to minimize spots, I would recommend doing a final wash (or two) with distilled water. Likewise mix all your chemicals with distilled water (including the rinse). This should help considerably.

Of note, Kodak offers a C-41 Final Rinse which is mostly a wetting agent (similar to Photo-Flo but not the same stuff). It has some biocidal properties, but doesn't have a stabilizer since modern films no longer need this (supposedly).

I find I get better, cleaner, negatives with the Final Rinse than I ever did with Unicolor's Stabilizer but the distilled water should go a long long way there (I wasn't previously doing that when I was using the Unicolor kit). You could perhaps buy some Kodak Final Rinse. It's inexpensive from Unique Photo if you're in the states. I wouldn't use Photo-Flo - it will probably work but I think it lacks some of the biocidal properties (don't quote me on that though).

Really appreciate the thorough and comprehensive explanation. I will certainly experiment, as you suggest. Happy New Year!